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Thats the least of my problems though.
I have a horrific sulphur smell that after 2 trips to the dealer in winston-salem NC, I was just provided with a tsb that says nothing can be done, try different gas, which I have done with no improvement. So I cant drive with the windows or sunroof open, and am supposed to accept that its a gas issue, not the car, but no car I have ever owned has had this problem.
Then there is the wobbling/unbalanced tyre issue on the Dunlop AT20's. At 65-75m/h the steering shakes like the wheels need balancing, then goes away after about 15miles of highway driving (tires warmed up). It has been like this from day 1, and at 2500 miles the dealer replaced the front tires but after 500 miles the problem came back and persists. I drive highway everyday and this is an issue for me.
Thirdly I also have trouble modulating the brake pedal. It either grabs or is weak so coming to a stop smoothly is the exception to the rule.
I am really disappointed as a result of these few issues which make my blood boil, its unacceptable at any price, but on a $35k truck!?
Other than that I love it, great looks, excellent build quality/fit and finish, fantastic jeckyll and hyde V6 (quiet and smooth or race it to the red line like a sewing machine), and the smooth and refined ride really sets it apart from its competitors.
My previous vehicle was a 2004 Jeep GC I-6, good ridence
Sulfur from 2003 4Runner
Steve, Host
The transmission thud is intermittent, most notably after spirited driving, when it had low miles it used to downshift too early when coming to a stop producing a tug, this now too seems only intermittent.
I just remembered another transmission issue - at 40-50mph on a gentle throttle and in 5th the drivetrain shakes like it wants to lock up, but wont, this persists unless you lift of the throttle/give it gas to downshift or manually shift it into 4th.
I just returned from a trip to the Outerbanks where it did its 1st beach driving, engaging Drive or Reverse in low range gave a solid thump (much like any gear selection in my Jeep!), though I dont think this is something that needs attention since low range use is so limited.
Something that bothered me was that in the soft stuff following previous tracks the VSC beeps and there's a crunching sound like you're bottoming out at the same time, locking the centre diff eliminates both these issues, weird (I do know that locking the diff switches off VSC, but can something explain in simple terms what sets off the beeping?)
On a new note I wonder what the obsession with needing a V8 to tow is. Unless you are living in mountains areas doing regular towing of something really heavy I dont see the point of the extra upfront cost and fuel cost (2mpg actually adds up, per tank, per month etc)
Ofcourse you may just buy it because it sounds great, so maybe its worth it!
I recently moved and used a 6x12 UHaul trailer which I was amazed at how easily it pulled it, and was expecting sluggish pull aways at the low end of the revs, but not so.
On the highway it look like I was getting around 15.5mpg at around 70mph, not bad.
By contrast I am South African, only having been in the US for 18months and the average size of car (and engine) is alot smaller than here, and back there we towed a double axle horsetrailer with my VW Caravelle 2.6i (updated Vanagon with Audi 5 cylinder engine-about 100kw and 200NM torque) and they were lauded as very good tow vehicles.
Anyone else share my perspective and curiosity at how much car and power people feel they need to accomplish the task, or is there something I am missing here?
For me the big difference with the V8 is how much quieter and smoother it is to drive. I drive approx. 800 miles a week on freeway and found the V6 to be a rougher ride. Mine is a V8 sport edition. Gets on ave about 19 MPG (real) and has all the thuds and groans in the driveline.
I am doing okay on the Dunlops (16K), no sulphur smell and really enjoy the truck. I will be towing soon and it will be over a thousand miles so I am pleased I have teh bigger engine. (also South African and used to the smaller cars)
I just bought an '05 Sport with the V8. I am towing a 22' trailer that now weighs probably about 4,000 pounds. Now mind you, the towing capacity is 7,500 pounds. The way it pulls with the V8 towing 4,000 pounds I can't imagine towing 7,500 pounds. That's why I got the larger motor, even though according to the spec on the V6 I would have been OK.
Hope this helps!!
For me, this is most irritating when approaching an intersection or stop signs. When stopped at a 4-way stop sign for instance, the rear view mirror blocks out the car to my right entirely. It also makes it difficult for me to see people crossing in the crosswalk when making right turns. Has anyone else experienced this same problem?
I think the main culprit is the lowered windshield of the current model. It's field of view is smaller than previous 4runners and therefore any obstructions placed on the window (ie - rearview mirror) are that much more significant.
Any feedback if others have the same problem, or how they resolved this is appreciated. Would a new rearview mirror help?
-Signed, "Clueless about cars in Atlanta"
Steve, Host
You are very coorect; this is an issue. I also think if you are a tall person (I am about 6'3" or so...) it aggravates the situation somewhat, as your eyes are already high on the windshield. I have an '04 Limited, which I drove for a year and a half before turning it over to my wife. She is rather short so it doesn't seem to bother her as much. I have had several close calls (a couple of very close...) at intersections, just as you described. It got to the point that any 4-way stop would set off imaginary alarm bells for me! I don't know if there is really a solution, rather than forcing yourself to be very careful at intersections, etc. I think changing the mirror would be problematic, and I don't know how much that would really help anyway. As you stated, the problem is most likely due to the fact the 4-Runner windshield is not very tall.
BTW, I now drive an '06 Toyota Avalon Limited, which has a huge windshield and the difference is amazing. It's like having a picture-window compared to a port-hole!
Mike
I paid a $50 deductable for the O2 sensor, hope they give that back since it was likely the bad cat that set it off in the first place!
Glad to know im not insane. Though Im not as tall as you, (Im 6'0") I have a longer torsoe and think this is probably the main problem (my head is close the headliner/sunroof sunshade). I tried lowering the seat and it seems to have helped SLIGHTLY, but it is not a comfortable driving postion (being so low in front of the dash). I like sitting up high which is the main reason im a big fan of SUVs. Otherwise, I would have bought a sedan or wagon (and saved on gas too!!!).
Now that I've recognized the problem and still after 2 months I wish i was back in my '93 4runner, I have the same alarms when I come to an intersection. I make a very noticable effort to peak around the rear-view mirrow before I accelerate. Its kind of annoying, but im afraid im going to run over a kid or someone I dont see coming. I would love to just rip the rear view mirror off and throw it away, but that wouldnt be safe either i suppose.
This is probably the one time in my life I wish i was a tad-bit shorter. I hope this doesnt turn out to be a $37K mistake.
Blasky
of course, it could be a faulty window or door seal or weld.
the AC evaporator drain theory can be verified if the car is left running, placed in park (brake also applied) with the AC running... one looks under the front of the vehicle (from the side, you don't have to nor should you be looking underneath the car from the front of the vehicle) but one doesn't see water draining to the road surface, or perhaps it is draining at a very slow rate.
in some vehicles, because of the location of the evaporator and the depth of the evap pan, with the AC on, i believe as they make right- or left-hand turns, they often hear what sounds like water running onto a hot skillet. perhaps this is the water in the pan getting super cooled by the evap coils.
if you've got a really bad problem, when you make your turns and you glance down at the foot well area, you're likely to see water running onto the mats and carpeting.
if you suspect your issue is with improper AC evaporator drainage, you can have someone with a compressor shoot a blast of compressed air up through the drain line. often this is sufficient to clear blockage and stop moisture from reaching the floorboards. sometimes the problem returns though.
it depends on how much debris is blocking the drain, or if the drain line is re-crimping, or if the drain line has become disconnected from the pan.
always keep the vent area under your windshield wipers (seen with the hood up) free and clear from pine straw, leaves, acorn shells and other stuff comming off trees which might get into the inlet to your vent system. this will eventually make it to a low-point, probably near your drain.
hope it helps.
HELP!!!!
When you look at the thousands of parts the typical SUV/Car has, is it really inconceivable that a bad part could make it through? I really think it's nothing to worry about....... Just be happy it was taken care of under warranty!
Any comments?
you want to try the alternate experiment which is OK by me. my experiment is quicker.
hey - don't you use your AC when it rains and your windshield fogs up?
good luck.
I took the Truck to the local Toyota "Dealer", and they are in effect doing everything possible not to take the truck and fix it. They are telling me that the only way to duplicate the problems, is by performing a computer diagnostic with the truck running, and they will not do it because is dangerous to drive. They can try to fix it going by an elimination process, but I will have to pay for their "elimination process" if they come out to be wrong.
Under their conditions, for example, I will pay for a complete electrical wire check, take out the truck (I become their default, unpaid fearless test pilot) and see if the fix works, if it does not, I take the vehicle back, and try the speed sensors (non refundable once purchased), then repeat the process and if does not work, replace the ABS module, and so on, until they finally make the correct guess. They will not give me any warranty on any parts and labor... I just basically have to roll the dice, and hope that what is probably a simple problem to fix with a real mechanic in charge, does not end up costing me thousands because some clown is getting on the job training at my expense. Can any one tell me if they have the right as a Toyota dealer to expect the customer to pay for their "guesses" and not honor any warranties ? The Truck has a good title!!!, and can any one suggest what may be wrong with the truck?.
What is not expected is that someone who owns a truck regularly gets into the ABS on off-ramps...
tough one. i would think you can't compell anyone to take a vehicle into traffic which you know has a high probability of locking up a wheel and placing the driver in a loss of control situation. not only is the driver at risk, so is any other traffic (specially on-comming).
if you are hesitant about the prospects of being a "test pilot", you could understand a service manager being hesitant to send one of his techs on a potential crash and burn mission...
there's also the possibility of subsequent damage to the vehicle if the wheel locks up and the vehicle strikes something...
this seems like a situation to perhaps consult with another dealership and/or independant specializing in toyota vehicles to mitigate risk and maximize the benefits of time in the vehicle / parts replacement.
i imagine there is probably a way someone really knowlegeable about the braking system (assuming that's how the wheel is locking up) can selectively disable traction control or stability control, or what might be the cause of wheel lockup (due to a speed sensor problem?)...and see if the wheel locks up or not. this would help in winnowing the problem / solution space.
there may be a way to mitigate the risk to a driver and the public using some kind of dynamo test stand, perhaps disabling / decoupling the drive to rear wheels...
i suppose you may also have mechanical problems which are unseen (differential?).
On another point regarding handling. Has anyone actually fealt the difference in an XReas vs std suspension?. I had an SR5 loaner and fealt no difference in comfort or handling to my Sport.
I have looked under it after I have had the a/c on and there is water draining but I can't really tell if it is the amount of water draining it should be. It isnt completely clogged though because there is some drainage. I havent heard any kind of water sloshing or the sizzle of it hitting the exhaust in hard turns either. I havent really got up under it and investigated it too well, but where can I find that drain line that might be crimped and the pan you are talking about? Can I see it from under the hood or do I need to get up underneath the vehicle to locate it? Thanks for your suggestions so far
It would appear that "parts were damaged". You need to remember that when a vehicle is in a serious wreck, IT IS NOT THE SAME VEHICLE AFTER. You need to ask your self the question- Why did the previous owner get rid of the vehicle after the accident? You said it wasn't totaled by the insurance company? You know, I am not a fan of New Car Dealers and their service departments. However, I must say I side with the dealer with this one. This car has been in an accident and they don't wish to "get involved" with the vehicle. I can't blame them. You know there are inherent risks involved in buying a vehicle involved in an accident and you found this out!
Good luck with this!
I haven't tried a std 4Runner (my limited has XREAS), so I can't help you there.
on cars I've owned the drain tube is visible under the vehicle, up front, ahead of the firewall but in an area behind the front passenger tire.
just to clarify a point - if your problem is bad (and the pan isn't draining at all), many people experience the sound of water hitting a hot frying pan. i believe it is water sloshing up against the evaporator coils and being changed from a liquid into a solid almost instantly, but that's just my theory. it is not water hitting exhaust system components.
cars are different of course. in mine (Honda), the cabin/pollen filter is behind the glove box and in the passenger compartment. to be honest, i don't know where the actual evaporator and pan with drain is located - but in my car, i think its there...one big assembly. last time i changed a cabin filter, there was some nasty stuff that collected there. on some cars, the cabin/pollen filter is located in a different place, but the pan and drain has to be at a low-point in the system, and if the evaporator is behind the dash somewhere, it will certainly not be outside the vehicle, or under the vehicle...but behind the dash and above driver or passenger feet most likely.
a toyota parts web-site (google it) might show for you vehicle and model year, where the AC evaporator or cabin filter is located on an exploded parts list. a call to a dealer parts department will probably also provide you with the information.
generally, during an oil change, most shops will gladly shoot a blast of compressed air up the drain line. if a boat-load of water pours back out, you know what your problem is. if someone charges you to do this when they already are under the car (either car is on a lift or they are in a pit), that would *REALLY* surprise me. just ask them.
you can try running your car without the ac. if you don't have any further mosture in the footwell, maybe your drain is partially clogged...just to let you know, debris in the pan can move and a completely clogged drain can become a partially clogged one. this has happened to me.
if you don't use your ac and you get water in the floorboard, i guess i would suspect a problem with a passenger door seal or windshield seal. you might be able to diagnose those possibilities using a garden hose.
well I fixed it my self by lubricating the spline yoke and u-joints of the propeller shaft. Over all cost is $14 got the lithium grease and moly lithium grease at the local Auto Zone place.
Hope this helps
tidester, host
Of course they also requested I bring the vehicle in however, I'm not sure they could duplicate the situation. Here is what happened...
I was driving back to my office from a client meeting 25 miles away. The drive was very wet in both directions. The problem first showed up as I exited onto a newly constructed fly over that would drop me down onto I-95 in Jacksonville FL. As I climbed the fly over at 60 mph the steering seemed odd and I thought the vehicle was beginning to hydroplane. The entire fly over is apx. 1/5 mile. I merged onto the Interstate and was getting uncomfortable with my vehicles response to the road.
Within moments of getting onto I-95 the car seemed to leave the road, steering and brakes failed, I even think power failed. I also heard an emergency beeping noise from the dash. My 4Runner traveled 30 to 50 yards without real contact to the road. Thankfully all the traffic was behind me and in front of me. I only crossed one lane and never spun out of control. After regaining power and control I moved off the Interstate and onto the emergency lane where I continued to drive and regain composure. The tires are original and not bald (but have wear).
Anyone with some answers or a similar situation?
email is valid
I was not exceeding the speed limit, infact I slowed the vehicle down to a speed under 60 mph well before I lost control of steering. I was driving the same speed as the rest of the traffic. The dealership explained that belts associated with the steering rack could have been wet and resulted in some of the problems. I'm not certain what could have been the primary cause I just did my best to try and deal with it for almost one mile before it got really serious.