Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

tu2nam · September 2005

Just recently the tire pressure monitor light came on and I checked all 4 tires' pressure and one did have less air than the other three which I added more air to. The light still comes on, when will it go off or is there another tire issue that I am not aware of? Thanks in advance.

fixmycar1 · September 2005

It takes 3 things to make an engine run; spark, fuel and air. (It's the control of those things that gets complicated). High probability this is not air related. When an engine runs very rough that's an indication that one or more cyclinders aren't firing at the right time or not firing at all. That's usually spark or fuel. You need to test them starting with the easiest first. I'd start with spark. Without the engine running remove each spark plug one at a time, check both ends for burns or damage, check the length of the wire for burns or damage then put it back before removing the next one. If you're lucky you'll spot a bad one. If your car needs new plugs replace them all anyway (one at a time so you don't get confused) and you'll probably fix the issue. For a 6 cyclinder you should have 7 plug wires, the extra one goes from the ignition coil to the distributor. Start with that one first since it is responsible for all spark going to each of the other plug wires. If it's not the plug wires, check the distributor cap and rotor. If it's okay, I'd move on to fuel. With fuel injection you'd want to check fuel pressure to the fuel rail. If that's not it then your fuel pump is probably fine. Then its on to oxygen sensors, get a computer diagnostics tool and start having more fun. Or take it in, but I'm betting on the plug or coil wires.

iontrap · September 2005

Since you've checked the other four tires, it's the spare that is causing the TPS light to come on. This just happen to me last week.

willhay · September 2005

You are low on brake fluid. Trust me.

jmblodgett · September 2005

I just bought a 1985 4Runner, which needs an entire front left turn signal assembly (already ordered). Is the absence of this assembly the likely reason for the rest of the turn signals, and the hazards, not working? Could it be blown fuses? or both? Where in the fuse box are the hazard and turn signal fuses located?

toyota9 · September 2005

No, shift into park, no out of park. Read the manual more closely. You must leave the lever in Park.

044runner · September 2005

Check the pressure on your spare tire. It is monitored as well. This happened to me and adding air to the spare corrected it.

laurie4 · September 2005

Urgent! Please respond ASAP. I have a 1995 4Runner and have been having the same starting problem for the past 6 weeks. I replaced the battery and it was fine for a while. I have to turn the key 5-6 times before it starts up. I never know if I am going to get stranded somewhere. I called the dealer and am bringing it in 9/24 but they always gouge me cuz I know zero about cars and they can tell me whatever they make up! What was the outcome of your situation? It does this to me several times a day- then not at all for a week, then start doing it again. I have been trying to pinpoint if it has something to do with how much gas is in the tank etc. sometimes after slightly moving the automatic shifter it starts up but that could be a coincidence. Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys!

wulffman1 · September 2005

I have the same problem with my 2005 V6 SE. Now has 8k miles.
Thats the least of my problems though.
I have a horrific sulphur smell that after 2 trips to the dealer in winston-salem NC, I was just provided with a tsb that says nothing can be done, try different gas, which I have done with no improvement. So I cant drive with the windows or sunroof open, and am supposed to accept that its a gas issue, not the car, but no car I have ever owned has had this problem.
Then there is the wobbling/unbalanced tyre issue on the Dunlop AT20's. At 65-75m/h the steering shakes like the wheels need balancing, then goes away after about 15miles of highway driving (tires warmed up). It has been like this from day 1, and at 2500 miles the dealer replaced the front tires but after 500 miles the problem came back and persists. I drive highway everyday and this is an issue for me.
Thirdly I also have trouble modulating the brake pedal. It either grabs or is weak so coming to a stop smoothly is the exception to the rule.
I am really disappointed as a result of these few issues which make my blood boil, its unacceptable at any price, but on a $35k truck!?
Other than that I love it, great looks, excellent build quality/fit and finish, fantastic jeckyll and hyde V6 (quiet and smooth or race it to the red line like a sewing machine), and the smooth and refined ride really sets it apart from its competitors.
My previous vehicle was a 2004 Jeep GC I-6, good ridence

neumie2000 · September 2005

Sorry to hear about your troubles. You are the first (to my knowledge) owner of a V6 to complain about the thud. Normally it is associated with the V8 4Runners, having something to do with being in four wheel drive all the time. Some have reported that a good greasing of the slip yoke has taken care of it, so I'd recommend trying that. I've never liked the dunlop tires.....mine has Michelin, and I've never had a problem. As for the smell.....there is an entire separate board on here devoted to the sulfur smell. There is a TSB to "fix" it, and if you look in that board, you'll find it. Mine smells, but only very occasionally, and I only ever notice it when I have the back window down. So mine is an easy fix, just put the back window up. What brand/octane gas do you use? I've notice that premium from Hess seems to make it better. Maybe give that a try?? The 4Runners are great vehicles....but they do have their issues!

stever · September 2005

Here's the link:

Sulfur from 2003 4Runner

Steve, Host

wulffman1 · September 2005

Thanks for the tip. I used to use Shell regular, then switched to 89, then tried BP, so I am up for anything now.
The transmission thud is intermittent, most notably after spirited driving, when it had low miles it used to downshift too early when coming to a stop producing a tug, this now too seems only intermittent.
I just remembered another transmission issue - at 40-50mph on a gentle throttle and in 5th the drivetrain shakes like it wants to lock up, but wont, this persists unless you lift of the throttle/give it gas to downshift or manually shift it into 4th.

I just returned from a trip to the Outerbanks where it did its 1st beach driving, engaging Drive or Reverse in low range gave a solid thump (much like any gear selection in my Jeep!), though I dont think this is something that needs attention since low range use is so limited.
Something that bothered me was that in the soft stuff following previous tracks the VSC beeps and there's a crunching sound like you're bottoming out at the same time, locking the centre diff eliminates both these issues, weird (I do know that locking the diff switches off VSC, but can something explain in simple terms what sets off the beeping?)

On a new note I wonder what the obsession with needing a V8 to tow is. Unless you are living in mountains areas doing regular towing of something really heavy I dont see the point of the extra upfront cost and fuel cost (2mpg actually adds up, per tank, per month etc)
Ofcourse you may just buy it because it sounds great, so maybe its worth it!
I recently moved and used a 6x12 UHaul trailer which I was amazed at how easily it pulled it, and was expecting sluggish pull aways at the low end of the revs, but not so.
On the highway it look like I was getting around 15.5mpg at around 70mph, not bad.
By contrast I am South African, only having been in the US for 18months and the average size of car (and engine) is alot smaller than here, and back there we towed a double axle horsetrailer with my VW Caravelle 2.6i (updated Vanagon with Audi 5 cylinder engine-about 100kw and 200NM torque) and they were lauded as very good tow vehicles.
Anyone else share my perspective and curiosity at how much car and power people feel they need to accomplish the task, or is there something I am missing here?

lazzarich · September 2005

Wulffman
For me the big difference with the V8 is how much quieter and smoother it is to drive. I drive approx. 800 miles a week on freeway and found the V6 to be a rougher ride. Mine is a V8 sport edition. Gets on ave about 19 MPG (real) and has all the thuds and groans in the driveline.

I am doing okay on the Dunlops (16K), no sulphur smell and really enjoy the truck. I will be towing soon and it will be over a thousand miles so I am pleased I have teh bigger engine. (also South African and used to the smaller cars)

chuck1 · September 2005

"On a new note I wonder what the obsession with needing a V8 to tow is. Unless you are living in mountains areas doing regular towing of something really heavy I dont see the point of the extra upfront cost and fuel cost (2mpg actually adds up, per tank, per month etc)"

I just bought an '05 Sport with the V8. I am towing a 22' trailer that now weighs probably about 4,000 pounds. Now mind you, the towing capacity is 7,500 pounds. The way it pulls with the V8 towing 4,000 pounds I can't imagine towing 7,500 pounds. That's why I got the larger motor, even though according to the spec on the V6 I would have been OK.

Hope this helps!!

olivert1 · September 2005

I am having the same problem with my 99 4runner as you describe. What did you finally do to fix the issue?

blasky · September 2005

I have been driving my 2005 Limited for about 2 months now, and only now finally realized what I dont like about it compared to my previous 4runner - the REAR VIEW MIRROR ON THE FRONT WINDSHIELD CREATES A HUGE BLIND SPOT (Looking 45 degrees to the right).

For me, this is most irritating when approaching an intersection or stop signs. When stopped at a 4-way stop sign for instance, the rear view mirror blocks out the car to my right entirely. It also makes it difficult for me to see people crossing in the crosswalk when making right turns. Has anyone else experienced this same problem?

I think the main culprit is the lowered windshield of the current model. It's field of view is smaller than previous 4runners and therefore any obstructions placed on the window (ie - rearview mirror) are that much more significant.

Any feedback if others have the same problem, or how they resolved this is appreciated. Would a new rearview mirror help?

4candice · September 2005

Hi, my check engine light and both vsc lights just came on in my 2002 4Runner today... can someone pleae help me. With all of the gas shortages... I think that I've probably gotten some bad gas. About six months ago, I had the same problem and Toyota charged me $50 for a diagnostic test only to tell me that I needed two catalytic converters, I refused to pay the $1100 they were asking and just kept driving my truck... two days later, the lights went off. Now they are all back on... What could be the problem? Someone please help me...

-Signed, "Clueless about cars in Atlanta"

stever · September 2005

Most auto parts stores now do free checks and will look up the codes that are thrown off by your check engine light (not sure about the vsc light). That should get you started without costing you anything initially.

Steve, Host

mstem · September 2005

blasky,

You are very coorect; this is an issue. I also think if you are a tall person (I am about 6'3" or so...) it aggravates the situation somewhat, as your eyes are already high on the windshield. I have an '04 Limited, which I drove for a year and a half before turning it over to my wife. She is rather short so it doesn't seem to bother her as much. I have had several close calls (a couple of very close...) at intersections, just as you described. It got to the point that any 4-way stop would set off imaginary alarm bells for me! I don't know if there is really a solution, rather than forcing yourself to be very careful at intersections, etc. I think changing the mirror would be problematic, and I don't know how much that would really help anyway. As you stated, the problem is most likely due to the fact the 4-Runner windshield is not very tall.

BTW, I now drive an '06 Toyota Avalon Limited, which has a huge windshield and the difference is amazing. It's like having a picture-window compared to a port-hole!

Mike

cush · September 2005

I had this happen with my '03 V8 Sport Ed while away from home. I took it to the nearest dealer who said the code was related to the cat. He reset it and told me to drive it and see if it comes back on. It came back on and I went to my local dealer who said it was a wheel speed sensor and ordered the part for me without asking. I am off factory warranty and have an extended warranty through the dealer where I purchased it. I took it to them and they replaced an O2 sensor and sent me on my way. 75 miles down the road, check engine, VSC Trac, etc lights come back on. They run another check and tell me I now need a new cat.

I paid a $50 deductable for the O2 sensor, hope they give that back since it was likely the bad cat that set it off in the first place!

blasky · September 2005

Hi Mike -

Glad to know im not insane. Though Im not as tall as you, (Im 6'0") I have a longer torsoe and think this is probably the main problem (my head is close the headliner/sunroof sunshade). I tried lowering the seat and it seems to have helped SLIGHTLY, but it is not a comfortable driving postion (being so low in front of the dash). I like sitting up high which is the main reason im a big fan of SUVs. Otherwise, I would have bought a sedan or wagon (and saved on gas too!!!).

Now that I've recognized the problem and still after 2 months I wish i was back in my '93 4runner, I have the same alarms when I come to an intersection. I make a very noticable effort to peak around the rear-view mirrow before I accelerate. Its kind of annoying, but im afraid im going to run over a kid or someone I dont see coming. I would love to just rip the rear view mirror off and throw it away, but that wouldnt be safe either i suppose.

This is probably the one time in my life I wish i was a tad-bit shorter. I hope this doesnt turn out to be a $37K mistake.

Blasky

taketime · September 2005

Anyone having a problem with the hood protector coming loose on the ends? I have a 2005 4Runner Limited and the hood protector was installed by the dealer. First time the driver side came loose. The next time both ends came loose. A month later the drivers side was loose again. It is fixed under warranty but I do not understand why this is happening. The service writer made a comment that my 4Runner is the only one having this problem. I had a 97 Limited and for eight years never had a problem with the hood protector.....thanks.

tryspider · September 2005

I recently bought a 1996 4runner 4wd Limited and put new floormats in it. As I took out the old ones I noticed the carpet was damp...not soaking wet, just damp on the passengers side. It was only lightly damp but it was spread over most of the bottom of the floomat and not just in one small place. I first thought it was the heater core but it didnt smell like anti freeze and when the heat is turned on it doesnt smell like antifreeze either. I looked behind the carpet toward the front of the floorboard and up into the firewall but saw no signs of leaking from back there either. Any ideas?

squeakydeke · September 2005

It could be that a windshield replacement job was botched. I had a similar problem. There was a tiny leak and it had to be re-replaced at the glass company's expense. Check to see if the windshield has the original Toyota logo on the glass. I'm guessing at that age of vehicle, it has been replaced at least once or twice already. You might be able to run a hose over the windshield and look up in the dash with a flashlight for a leak.

tryspider · September 2005

I will check it but there has been no rain here in a long time and I havent been thru the car wash lately. Is there anyway it could be making the moisture...maybe the ac condensation leaking in someway? This baffles me.

user777 · September 2005

when people note a damp floor board they should immediately consider that their A/C evaporator has a clogged or crimped drain tube.

of course, it could be a faulty window or door seal or weld.

the AC evaporator drain theory can be verified if the car is left running, placed in park (brake also applied) with the AC running... one looks under the front of the vehicle (from the side, you don't have to nor should you be looking underneath the car from the front of the vehicle) but one doesn't see water draining to the road surface, or perhaps it is draining at a very slow rate.

in some vehicles, because of the location of the evaporator and the depth of the evap pan, with the AC on, i believe as they make right- or left-hand turns, they often hear what sounds like water running onto a hot skillet. perhaps this is the water in the pan getting super cooled by the evap coils.

if you've got a really bad problem, when you make your turns and you glance down at the foot well area, you're likely to see water running onto the mats and carpeting.

if you suspect your issue is with improper AC evaporator drainage, you can have someone with a compressor shoot a blast of compressed air up through the drain line. often this is sufficient to clear blockage and stop moisture from reaching the floorboards. sometimes the problem returns though.

it depends on how much debris is blocking the drain, or if the drain line is re-crimping, or if the drain line has become disconnected from the pan.

always keep the vent area under your windshield wipers (seen with the hood up) free and clear from pine straw, leaves, acorn shells and other stuff comming off trees which might get into the inlet to your vent system. this will eventually make it to a low-point, probably near your drain.

hope it helps.

tryspider · September 2005

That might be it. It is cool down here now and I havent run the a/c in a couple of days but it may be left over from the last time. I guess I will take out the floor mat and not run the a/c and see if it dries. That just about HAS to be it...if not, who knows? Thanks for the advice.

catsmith · September 2005

I am having problems with my 2005 4Runner that I purchased brand new in March of this year. My indicator lights kept flashing on periodically, and when I brought it in the first time, they told me that they couldn't duplicate the problem and I left with it...according to them...fine. Two weeks later...my car literally died. It wouldn't drive....the indicator lights came on again...and my car felt like it was stuck in 1st when I tried to accelerate. Turns out...my master cylinder was replaced. I have 10,000 miles on my car...how could I possibly need my master cylinder replaced??? It was covered under warranty...but I'm upset that my car wasn't working properly the fist 6 months I owned it. Now my breaks actually work...well now I know what ABS feels like...my breaking is sooo much smoother. I used to think the abrupt breaking feel was typical of a "sport" edition. Any thoughts? Have you heard of anyone else with this type of problem?

HELP!!!!

chuck1 · September 2005

C'mon,
When you look at the thousands of parts the typical SUV/Car has, is it really inconceivable that a bad part could make it through? I really think it's nothing to worry about....... Just be happy it was taken care of under warranty!

wulffman1 · September 2005

I have a 2005 Sport with 8k on the clock. On a couple of occassions exiting a sharp offramp and climbing on the brakes, has resulted in the inside front loosing grip on uneven surfaces, this would be expected. What is not expected is that once the ABS kicks in the brake pedal pressure dissappears and you are left holding onto the steering hoping to make the turn. The first time this happened most of the ignition lights came on and it fealt as if the car had died as I also lost some power steering, talk about fright of my life. This cant be normal and I first thought that cutting power etc had something to do with the VSC.
Any comments?

user777 · September 2005

tryspider, even though it is cooling down in Atlanta for example, try the test i suggested. with a clogged drain, you still may have appreciable water in the pan that on hard turns, you're going to soak your carpeting in the foot well area again.

you want to try the alternate experiment which is OK by me. my experiment is quicker.

hey - don't you use your AC when it rains and your windshield fogs up?

good luck.

gilv · September 2005

">I have a 2004 Toyota 4 Runner Sport. I purchased the truck wrecked (With a good title), and had it fixed. The job done was strictly body shop work (Left front door and fender were replaced). No mechanical parts were damaged. When I drove the truck I noticed a sporadic sudden stalling of the engine when driving at 30 to 40 miles per hour, and also a sporadic sudden locking of the front left tire at any speed. No warning lights are ever turned on when these problems happen.
I took the Truck to the local Toyota "Dealer", and they are in effect doing everything possible not to take the truck and fix it. They are telling me that the only way to duplicate the problems, is by performing a computer diagnostic with the truck running, and they will not do it because is dangerous to drive. They can try to fix it going by an elimination process, but I will have to pay for their "elimination process" if they come out to be wrong.
Under their conditions, for example, I will pay for a complete electrical wire check, take out the truck (I become their default, unpaid fearless test pilot) and see if the fix works, if it does not, I take the vehicle back, and try the speed sensors (non refundable once purchased), then repeat the process and if does not work, replace the ABS module, and so on, until they finally make the correct guess. They will not give me any warranty on any parts and labor... I just basically have to roll the dice, and hope that what is probably a simple problem to fix with a real mechanic in charge, does not end up costing me thousands because some clown is getting on the job training at my expense. Can any one tell me if they have the right as a Toyota dealer to expect the customer to pay for their "guesses" and not honor any warranties ? The Truck has a good title!!!, and can any one suggest what may be wrong with the truck?.

nedzel · September 2005

"What is not expected is that once the ABS kicks in the brake pedal pressure dissappears and you are left holding onto the steering hoping to make the turn"

What is not expected is that someone who owns a truck regularly gets into the ABS on off-ramps...

user777 · October 2005

some comments from someone mentally simulating the situation you're in...

tough one. i would think you can't compell anyone to take a vehicle into traffic which you know has a high probability of locking up a wheel and placing the driver in a loss of control situation. not only is the driver at risk, so is any other traffic (specially on-comming).

if you are hesitant about the prospects of being a "test pilot", you could understand a service manager being hesitant to send one of his techs on a potential crash and burn mission...

there's also the possibility of subsequent damage to the vehicle if the wheel locks up and the vehicle strikes something...

this seems like a situation to perhaps consult with another dealership and/or independant specializing in toyota vehicles to mitigate risk and maximize the benefits of time in the vehicle / parts replacement.

i imagine there is probably a way someone really knowlegeable about the braking system (assuming that's how the wheel is locking up) can selectively disable traction control or stability control, or what might be the cause of wheel lockup (due to a speed sensor problem?)...and see if the wheel locks up or not. this would help in winnowing the problem / solution space.

there may be a way to mitigate the risk to a driver and the public using some kind of dynamo test stand, perhaps disabling / decoupling the drive to rear wheels...

i suppose you may also have mechanical problems which are unseen (differential?).

wulffman1 · October 2005

I expected this response from someone. Regarding regularly feeling the ABS kicking in, I meant that momentary jumping underfoot when you cross a loose surface like scattered gravel, or a sharp bump while braking and turning into a tight offramp, normally the 270 degree roundabouts. You have to climb on the brakes in these cases, specially when there isnt a dedicated offramp lane. The other wheels have perfect traction and as a result of the issues I mentioned before, I get less breaking performance once the gizmo's start playing.
On another point regarding handling. Has anyone actually fealt the difference in an XReas vs std suspension?. I had an SR5 loaner and fealt no difference in comfort or handling to my Sport.

tryspider · October 2005

777,
I have looked under it after I have had the a/c on and there is water draining but I can't really tell if it is the amount of water draining it should be. It isnt completely clogged though because there is some drainage. I havent heard any kind of water sloshing or the sizzle of it hitting the exhaust in hard turns either. I havent really got up under it and investigated it too well, but where can I find that drain line that might be crimped and the pan you are talking about? Can I see it from under the hood or do I need to get up underneath the vehicle to locate it? Thanks for your suggestions so far

chuck1 · October 2005

I have a 2004 Toyota 4 Runner Sport. I purchased the truck wrecked (With a good title), and had it fixed. The job done was strictly body shop work (Left front door and fender were replaced). No mechanical parts were damaged.

It would appear that "parts were damaged". You need to remember that when a vehicle is in a serious wreck, IT IS NOT THE SAME VEHICLE AFTER. You need to ask your self the question- Why did the previous owner get rid of the vehicle after the accident? You said it wasn't totaled by the insurance company? You know, I am not a fan of New Car Dealers and their service departments. However, I must say I side with the dealer with this one. This car has been in an accident and they don't wish to "get involved" with the vehicle. I can't blame them. You know there are inherent risks involved in buying a vehicle involved in an accident and you found this out!
Good luck with this!

nedzel · October 2005

Sorry, but having had my 4Runner for 2 years, the only times I've felt the ABS come on have been in snow. And your post was far too tempting a target to not respond

I haven't tried a std 4Runner (my limited has XREAS), so I can't help you there.

user777 · October 2005

well, if you see water draining to the road surface... you know where the drain is.

on cars I've owned the drain tube is visible under the vehicle, up front, ahead of the firewall but in an area behind the front passenger tire.

just to clarify a point - if your problem is bad (and the pan isn't draining at all), many people experience the sound of water hitting a hot frying pan. i believe it is water sloshing up against the evaporator coils and being changed from a liquid into a solid almost instantly, but that's just my theory. it is not water hitting exhaust system components.

cars are different of course. in mine (Honda), the cabin/pollen filter is behind the glove box and in the passenger compartment. to be honest, i don't know where the actual evaporator and pan with drain is located - but in my car, i think its there...one big assembly. last time i changed a cabin filter, there was some nasty stuff that collected there. on some cars, the cabin/pollen filter is located in a different place, but the pan and drain has to be at a low-point in the system, and if the evaporator is behind the dash somewhere, it will certainly not be outside the vehicle, or under the vehicle...but behind the dash and above driver or passenger feet most likely.

a toyota parts web-site (google it) might show for you vehicle and model year, where the AC evaporator or cabin filter is located on an exploded parts list. a call to a dealer parts department will probably also provide you with the information.

generally, during an oil change, most shops will gladly shoot a blast of compressed air up the drain line. if a boat-load of water pours back out, you know what your problem is. if someone charges you to do this when they already are under the car (either car is on a lift or they are in a pit), that would *REALLY* surprise me. just ask them.

you can try running your car without the ac. if you don't have any further mosture in the footwell, maybe your drain is partially clogged...just to let you know, debris in the pan can move and a completely clogged drain can become a partially clogged one. this has happened to me.

if you don't use your ac and you get water in the floorboard, i guess i would suspect a problem with a passenger door seal or windshield seal. you might be able to diagnose those possibilities using a garden hose.

dlrjaz · October 2005

Hi could you tell me how or where the egr gas temperature sensor plug is? I am having the same problem you have I have code 71. Thanks for any help. Jaz

tryspider · October 2005

I looked at my belts yesterday on my 1996 Toyota 4runner ltd. and one of them is badly worn. How hard are those to change and should I be able to do that myself or is that a job for a shop?

p53mustang · October 2005

had same problem and the stealership couldn't fix it either they can't duplicate the problem or they give me such bull as they all do that.
well I fixed it my self by lubricating the spline yoke and u-joints of the propeller shaft. Over all cost is $14 got the lithium grease and moly lithium grease at the local Auto Zone place.
Hope this helps

whyatt1 · October 2005

I am having an identical problem as well. Stuck in 4High, 4X4 indicator light flashing. 2000 4Runner 4X4. Did you get it solved?

loyaltoyowne · October 2005

Mine just did the same thing on Saturday. They told me I'd have to replace the cat convertor also. Thing is I already had it replaced at 60,000 miles and now I"m having to replace it at 115,000. Let me know what they tell you. The service manager at least told me this is NOT NORMAL

wilkinss · October 2005

I just bought a 2005 Toyota 4Runner V8 4WD. Driving home from the dealer I noticed a high frequency vibration in the steering wheel that only occurs when accelerating. No vibration at all when coasting at any speed. There is no discernible movement of the steering wheel but just a regular "buzz-like" vibration in my hands and I can feel the blinker "buzzing" with vibration as well. I didn't notice it when test driving but now its really irritating. I've seen some of the discussion on this forum about vibration issues but haven't seen anything like this that is not a function of speed and goes away when coasting. Any ideas on what could be causing this?

tidester · October 2005

Please update your membership information with a valid email address.

tidester, host

kloftus · October 2005

I had a big scare the other day driving my 2004 4Runner on a rain soaked highway when my brakes, steering and power all seemed to fail all at once! This has happened once before but it wasn't on an Interstate highway. I called the dealership and they were good enough to call back with some possible answers.
Of course they also requested I bring the vehicle in however, I'm not sure they could duplicate the situation. Here is what happened...
I was driving back to my office from a client meeting 25 miles away. The drive was very wet in both directions. The problem first showed up as I exited onto a newly constructed fly over that would drop me down onto I-95 in Jacksonville FL. As I climbed the fly over at 60 mph the steering seemed odd and I thought the vehicle was beginning to hydroplane. The entire fly over is apx. 1/5 mile. I merged onto the Interstate and was getting uncomfortable with my vehicles response to the road.
Within moments of getting onto I-95 the car seemed to leave the road, steering and brakes failed, I even think power failed. I also heard an emergency beeping noise from the dash. My 4Runner traveled 30 to 50 yards without real contact to the road. Thankfully all the traffic was behind me and in front of me. I only crossed one lane and never spun out of control. After regaining power and control I moved off the Interstate and onto the emergency lane where I continued to drive and regain composure. The tires are original and not bald (but have wear).

Anyone with some answers or a similar situation?

kloftus · October 2005

Was this request for me?
email is valid

canddmeyer · October 2005

kloftus...sounds like hydroplaning to me. If during the previous incident the roadway was also wet, I'd say you were going too fast for the conditions. Just my opinion, so don't take it personally. The 4Runner's safety systems response appears to have acted as they should have.

kloftus · October 2005

Thanks for the reply.
I was not exceeding the speed limit, infact I slowed the vehicle down to a speed under 60 mph well before I lost control of steering. I was driving the same speed as the rest of the traffic. The dealership explained that belts associated with the steering rack could have been wet and resulted in some of the problems. I'm not certain what could have been the primary cause I just did my best to try and deal with it for almost one mile before it got really serious.

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