Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

nippononly · December 2005

Are you sure it's not just the rear seat ventilation system, with something stuck either in the vent itself or in the blower? That's what it sounds like, but it's hard to get a sense of it. Certainly it would be easy to check, just turn the rear seat air on and off, see if the sound comes and goes.

nippononly · December 2005

Speaking not of 4Runners specifically but rather of vehicles in general, older models with rough rides usually have worn-out suspension bushings. If you have only changed the shocks and not the bushings, you may accomplish a lot by doing that. Problem is, if you have a shop do the work, it will not be cheap. :-(

I am curious: I had a '90 which never had the butt-drag problem, so I got lucky, but just how do you fix that problem? Do you have to replace everything at the back, including the springs?

temujhin · December 2005

hey, this may seem stupid/too simple, but just in case you are used to the finer things in life-- have you tried just putting it in reverse and driving backwards a few feet, 20 feet even if necessary? pretty typical, easy fix but you may have already tried that.
jc

temujhin · December 2005

i was having prlems in my '94 with the efi relay.
dont think the fuse ever blew, but the relay was what was wrong and it wouldn't start until replaced it. it was only 14 or 30 bucks, i dont remember.

temujhin · December 2005

since this happened to me i read on another forum about it happening to someone else with a 93. mines a 94 and what started out as a slow drip in the rear brake line (either supply or return not sure which) within a week of bleeding every day turned into a geyser. and to fix it at the leak you would have to drop the tailgate.
yours is newer than mine and mines a piece of crap, but you might check for drips under the car right around your gas tank, etc.

temujhin · December 2005

a while back mine just quit on me too. the first problem was a bad EFI relay. then it was just funky battery cable connections. no spark, no... well... no nothin.
both cases wouldn't even turn over. the efi relay is cheap, beer or soda and a wire brush on the battery connectors is cheaper.

temujhin · December 2005

this seems more and more common the more i read about 92-95 runners. same problem here-- it was above the front of the gas tank which means a repair involves dropping the tank. or replacing both supply and return lines if that is where it is. it was alot easier to see where my particular leak was coming from when i took off the spare and crawled up under.
you can find stuff online regarding rerunning rear brake lines and using an adjustable rear proportioning valve or write me and i can fill you in - billybdd@yahoo.com - its less than 80 bucks and was alot easier than dropping the tank on my rusty piece of crap.

clemdia · December 2005

I am having the IDENTICAL problem on the IDENTICAL car (99 4Runner Ltd). Also happened to me about a year ago, but then suddenly 4WD disengaged and all was well. This time, I am stuck in 4WD with a flashing indicator light and no way to disengage.

I have been told by three places (my mechanic, their transmission specialist, and a Toyota dealer) that I must replace the transfer case (at $3,000 to $4,000!!!). The diagnosis from everyone is that the electric motor in the transfer case has gone bad. While this is apparently a common problem with Ford, noone has ever seen it on a Toyota.

Did you find a resolution?

grnwtrs · December 2005

Paint Problems. Yes Indeed. I have a 2004 sport edition, V-8, 4X4 in a ultra plain WHITE. It was purchased in Feb 04, and had about 26 miles or so on it for what its worth.

This past summer (2005) I noticed a black line on the rear passenger side. At first thought it was road tar, or whatever. This was after finish up a washing the car with TURTLE WAX ZIP WAX CAR washing solution" I have used this product for years with a glove and/or a wash mitt. Never a problem.

So I go to my friendly dealer and have him take a look. He noticed some other sports. I took responsibility for them as my "wife likes to park by touch" as I told him.

Any way against his better judgement(according to him) he said he would call the Paint Shop next door and have the problem taken care of. No paper was written up, Darn!! So the owner of Mike's paint shop, very personable, and help full does it right away and gave care instructions. Great Shop!! Great guy.

Now December 2005 ( about 12,000 miles total) more problems. Can't blame wife, but can blame both of us. In the pockets, where you place your hand to open the door, I discovered a BUNCH of small scratches. The scratches look to be BLACK. I doubt they are scratches, but instead the "ORIGINAL WHITE PAINT" BEING SCUFFED WITH OUR FINGER NAILS. The black fibre glass of the door is showing through.

After all this, if you stayed awake with my rambling, how should I approach my dealer? Should I talk to someone at the factory level or just get it re painted and quit my whinny attitude.

I got rid of the chevs and fords for this very same reason after reprinting them on my dime. I want something the paint stays on the vehicle. That is why I choose "WHITE".
Now I am faced with the same thing with the Toyota. Do have a 1977 Toyota, and paint problems there were/are because of me.
Sad thing is, we just love the vehicle, it has everything we need, gas mileage not so good, but fine with us, and a great riding car, and especially SAFE CAR

Should I just give it all up and trade it off for a Honda Pilot. That seems to be the best choice now

Gene
El Sobrante, CA
on the left coast

freaking102 · December 2005

Why trade it because of a paint flaw? It's new, so you still got warranty; go request a fix. And if they won't fix it,... you live in CA, so paint is really an unnecesssary cosmetic luxury. I have had cars in CA with bare metals that lasted for many years. If your neighbors think your car looks ugly with bad paint, tell them not to judge a book by it's cover - it's a Toyota, and paint/cosmetics are only necessary for ugly cars like they design in Detroit.

grnwtrs · December 2005

Yea you are right. Only wished I had bought a black 4-runner. Then when all the paint comes off, it would match the fiberglass.

Besides I would have preferred to have a more exotic problem, like low tires, bad seals on the moon roof, auto shifting problems. I guess you get the idea.

Thank you for the assist.

Gene
El Sobrante, CA
on the left coast

dealkiller · December 2005

Don't be silly. Even a black 4runner won't solve your problem. The so called nail scratches (by Toyota dealer) on my black 4runner's handle well show white color. Toyota does know how to put a thin layer of paint on, but doesn't know how to make the paint stay.

grnwtrs · December 2005

is I guess I am really confused. I thought the base was the same on all vehicles. Are you saying on the Black 4-runner is white, while on the White 4-runner it is Black.

Sorry to be a cynic, but the dealers I have encountered think all car buyers are idiots. They are probably right.

Gene

deaconwfu · December 2005

Can you tell me what tool you used to get your oil filter off? I have two filter tools neither of which will work.

witchdoctor · December 2005

My 05 LTD has exact same pblm.... I can drive around all day w. seat heater on MAX - and I live in south florida. I only have 2K miles and will add it to the warranty pblm list.

witchdoctor · December 2005

I have 2K on my 05 LTD v8 in South FLA. When the ac compressor engages (ac always on) the engine idle increases 200-300 rpm which is really annoying when stopping because the brakes are sensitive... as I'm slowing to a stop the compressor disengages and the brakes grab OR the compressor turns on and I must stab the brakes because the car accelerates. Makes driving smoothly challenging and annoying.
I asked the Toyota service dept if this can be adjusted and they said NO, ITS A COMPUTER PROGRAMMING ISSUE. sounds like bs to me - does anybody know if this can be adjusted so that the idle increase is a little more subtle??

skimtbca · December 2005

G'day - I'm considering a 4Runner for my next vehicle. I have read that the traction control system is quite 'conservative', and quite difficult to disengage. While I don't do any serious 'wheeling', I do ACTUALLY go off paved roads quite a bit in my job, and have read other comments that the system prevents a lot of people from going anywhere in off-road conditions (mud, sand, snow). Any comments?

2toyotas · December 2005

The 4Runner will go farther than you will ever take it. The traction control system works great, unless you do serious off roading, and I mean really serious where you need locking differentials, the system works incredible.

kullenberg · December 2005

"have read other comments that the system prevents a lot of people from going anywhere in off-road conditions (mud, sand, snow). Any comments?"

If you have 4wd, locking the center diff turns off that portion of the traction control system that cuts the power back. I wholly agree with 2toyotas as to the capability of the 4Runner

nedzel · December 2005

That's normal. My 2003 does it too. Consequently, when I'm stopped at a traffic light I usually put the truck in neutral.

nedzel · December 2005

The traction control system is quite conservative, unfortunately. When offroad, you can lock the center differential. That turns off the over-active spin control. It doesn't turn off the traction control. Sigh.

I take my 4Runner offroad regularly, though not serious 'wheeling', as you put it. I take it out on the beach on Cape Cod and Martha's Vineyard in the summer. The beaches I use don't have any steep hills, but they do have plenty of soft sand.

On Sunday, I drove through 12" of snow out to the outdoor range at the gun club. Even though it was dragging 3" of snow, it made the several hundred yard trip without any problem whatsoever. Even dragging the undercarriage over the snow bank at the edge of the road wasn't a problem. Of course, my Nokian snow tires probably helped.

For moderate off-road conditions in mud, sand, and snow, it will do just fine.

sikka50 · December 2005

During my first long drive, which happened to be ~800 miles straight from a dealer in Maryland to my home in Georgia - I drove at 50-55/56 mph. My milage was 22.5 - 2005 V8 4x4 with AC on. No cruise contril

Oh - I was asked not to drive fast or with cruise, because the car was in break-in period (it had only 100 miles when I started).

skimtbca · December 2005

Thanks a lot guys for your responses - sounds like it isn't as bad as some had made it out to be.

All the best!

nedzel · December 2005

How did you calculate that mileage? Did you use the computer or did you divide miles driven by gas put in the tank?

My experience is that the computer is 1-2 mpg optimistic.

grnwtrs · December 2005

I have been told the " computer mileage" as listed on the "HUD" display is calculated beween " start ups".

Be careful in figureing your mileage

Gene

mengle75 · December 2005

Hello,

I have another dumb question for the list (my last dumb question, i promise, sorry just bought a new 4runner last week). I was playing (ok testing) around with the H2/H4/L4 dial (while parked in my driveway) on the dash, and accidentally put it in L4 without stepping on the brake or putting in neutral beforehand. Would this cause any kind of damage to the 4wd system, even though I was in park and wasn't moving? Everything seems to be fine, but just checking...The owners manual is very vague on this and I wanted to see if anyone knew on here...thanks in advance for your help...

4x4kid · December 2005

my 95 4runner engine blew this past tuesday. i came from the gas station and it started sputtering and blowing white smoke out the tail pipes. once i got going the noise would go away but stopping and accelerating again would make the sputtering and white smoke come back again. got it to work and looked under the car and coolant had shot to one side. had it towed and taken to the shop where my mechanic is and he said that water was coming back out the radiator. he said my motor was shot but my thing is this is the second motor that was put in this car from toyota when the headgasket campaign was going around. the motor had 50-80 thousand miles on it. every toyota mechanic that i spoke to said people are putting over 300-400 thousand miles on theres.what would be the easiest way to go about fixing this problem.should i replace the motor my self or should i go and talk to toyota myself

grnwtrs · December 2005

Gas Mileage by the computer is calculated between "start-ups" So each time you start up the engine, it re-computes your mileage according to a dealer tech I spoke with a year or so ago

I personally use the gas tank method. I keep track of every fill up and the mileage, and mileage between. I calculate the miles driven divided by the number of gallons put in the tank.

Unfortunate for me, I can't seem to get a "consistent" fill. One time my mileage is 22 mpg, the next is 16.5!! That is for local driving. Long distance 300 or so miles at about 60-65 mph my fill ups tell me I am getting 18.0 18.5 with the full time 4X4 V/8.

I am happy with the mileage. If only I could keep the paint on the vehicle. Paint is coming off.

nippononly · December 2005

If I got everything straight here, you had a problem with your radiator, but not knowing that you drove it with no coolant and steam coming out of the tailpipe and killed the engine?

I think it will be hard to demonstrate satisfactorily at this point that the problem was ever the head gasket (if, in fact, it was - it could have just been the coolant leak and then running with no coolant). I don't think you should approach Toyota, no. I think you should decide if you want to spend a couple of thousand $$ putting in a used/rebuilt engine, and another $300 getting a new radiator. On a '95, I would probably do it if everything else is in tip-top shape.

OTOH, for $8-10K you could get into one a few years newer, which has the bigger engine (which makes a world of difference, I have had both). Imagine actually maintaining speed on long or steep highway grades....

Toyota trucks in general will go 300-400K miles, this particular one (the V-6) requires extra care with the engine, which tends to eat valves under the best of circumstances. Mine (a '90 V-6 4x4) needed a valve job at 175K, which I did happily, figuring to get many more years out of it. At 220K it was still running, but making unfriendly sounds from the lower end (predictable, right? Rebuild the top, puts more pressure on the bottom). The guy who bought it from me planned to put in a new engine, as it was in excellent shape apart from that.

sssimoni · December 2005

I know this is going to be a tough one as you would have to hear it, but my 4runner (160,000 miles) is making a "whirling noise", particularly at startup. The 4runner is running smooth with this exception; just afraid something is about to go. Any advice?

grahmm · December 2005

The idle is contolled by the computer of the vehicle and cannot be adjusted. The modern systems reset to the o.e. spec's if anyone tries to tamper or change. The idle is adjusted to compensate for the drag the system puts on the engine and 200 - 300 idle increase sounds to be within range. The computers are still programming and with only 2,000 miles on the vehicle but chances are this setting will not change.

tangman · December 2005

Has anyone experienced an engine ping (ticking noise) when you first start the truck for about a minutes. It is worse if the vehicles has not been started for a week and the weather is cold. Otherwise, the vehicle is great. Similar experiences out there????

neumie2000 · December 2005

I have an 05 V8 and it does the same thing. It only occurs, as you said, when it is cold (below 30 degrees) and I only notice it when the rpms jump to about 2000 upon startup. My first winter, I was running conventional oil....this winter, I have changed to full synthetic and the tick has been reduced noticeable....likely because the synthetic oil is better in colder conditions. Try some synthetic to see if the noise is lessened, but I believe that the noise is completely normal.

kullenberg · December 2005

I have the same vehicle, and it does the same thing, occasionally, when it's cold. It sounds like a fuel injector clicking. Every so often, I try to put a tankfull of Chevron gas with the "techron", which seems to help keep the injectors clean. May be "snake oil", but it seems to work.

nippononly · December 2005

The "whirling noise" you hear is the radiator fan - it is normal for the clutch to engage for a minute when you first start the car, in fact it is a great way to tell the fan clutch is still working. If you ever stop hearing that sound at startup, it will be a bad sign!

I am surprised you have only just started hearing it at 160K miles though - did you just get this truck recently?

grahmm · December 2005

What you are probably hearing is the fuel injectors firing/snapping. They act like electric squirt guns. Since the engine is built to run warm the cold enrichment system cuts in meaning the fuel injectors are working harder delivering more fuel to make the engine run rich (to keep it running) until the engine is warmed up enough and the mixture leans out for normal driving conditions. This is normal and not to be concerned about.

clemdia · December 2005

(FWIW, a little disappointed that noone replied to this post -- to see why, read below).

After all of the diagnoses, I went with the advice of the Toyota dealer and replaced the transfer case. I have a friend in the parts business locally, so he got me the new transfer case for *only* $2,000 *rather than the $3,000 the dealer quoted). This did not fix the problem. The car is back to the dealer who has offered to "re-diagnose" the problem for free (the first, incorrect diagnosis cost me $400!!).

If ANYONE out there has any ideas on what would cause a 99 4Runner Ltd to become stuck in 4WD with the indicator light flashing, I would love to hear from you --

This is getting expensive (and even though it is a Toyota, it is a 6 year old car).

Thanks :sick:

grahmm · December 2005

Contact Toyota directly. Explain what was diagnosed by dealer and the out of pocket expense based on their diagnosis. They will usually try and assist. Also might want to contact whatever agency governs auto shop practices in your state (it might help recoup some of the loss). Toyota (company not dealer) might have a tech team that could assist. If you bought a Toyota part have the part number available.

chuck1 · December 2005

"This is getting expensive (and even though it is a Toyota, it is a 6 year old car)."

If they can't tell you for sure what is wrong with it-get rid of it. To put more money in to a 6 year old car is a bad thing to do.

kymmyjo · December 2005

I had the same problem with my 2004 Limited. I had the issue fixed as well but was told to use premium gas every other tank. It fixed the sulfer smell problem. No more cheap gas for me. It was a small price to pay for not being stinky anymore.

wrenchspin2 · December 2005

For the 2005 V6 engine - has anyone found a good oil filter tool (an 'end cap')that fits the YZZD3 filter? I can't seem to find one that is a proper fit.
Also, is anyone else experiencing a problem with not being able to get the oil dipstick out? I have tried removing it when the engine is hot, warm , cold, doesn't seem to matter, the o-ring on it is now starting to rip from having to force pull it out every time. I even tried using a lubricant when I put it back in. I have never had this happen before on any vehicle I've owned!

rocksolidtubes · December 2005

Wow:

I have the same problem at the moment with my 1999 Toyota Limited 4Runner with the flashing 4wd indicator.

Has been in the shop multiple times which resulted in multiple switches and now a transfer case without results.

Just put up $2k for the transfer case because the Toyota dealer took mine apart and seems like they could not find anything wrong, so I towed it to another shop for a second opinion and they put a used transfer case in for me because the original was striped down to nothing (thanks Dealer).

Tried AWD once and it worked and when I tried it again it got stuck with the lights flashing again and it feels like it is in 4wd.

I am ready to go to Toyota Corporate now as well because they do not seem to know how to fix it and I have spent a lot of money and time.

If you find anything out, please let me know.
Did you replace the transfer case motor?

David

drex1 · January 2006

Fernnn,
Look at message 777 on how to replace the starter. It is a bit more work than you might expect.

drex1 · January 2006

My '99 4Runner has 99,000 miles and I am looking to get the timing belt replaced. Should I get all the other belts replaced (AC, Power Steering, and Generator) at the same time?

Second, since these three belts have to be removed to replace the timing belt, then should the dealer charge me any extra labor for just putting on the new belts (instead of the old ones).

What has been your experience?

Drex :confuse:

drex1 · January 2006

Brian,
I've had the same problem in my '03 4Runner and most of the noise occurs when my sunshade is closed. When it is open, I don't hear any chatter at all. What did the dealer say or do when you took it to him?

Drex

grahmm · January 2006

As an retired Toyota Service Manager I would say that they would be more than happy to put the new belts on with just the part cost (they have to be removed). Make sure you stick with dealer - believe it or not I've seen too many messed up by independents to count with disasterous results for the owner seeking to save a little money.

drex1 · January 2006

How often should I be changing the spark plugs and wires on my 1999 4Runner, 6-cyl, 3.4L? Any recommendations on which type/brand spark plugs to use?

Thx.

Drex

tmormile · January 2006

Hey Oscar,
I have a 2005 4runner sport V6 4x4. I have been having many issues with this vehicle, one of which is the shimmy on the highway at around 60mph. If you look up the service bulletins on the vehicle, you'll see that there's a bulletin for the steering column on this vehicle where there's a defective part on certain models that causes this issue. There are many other issues with the wheels, pressure sensors, and suspension. I am currently going back and forth with Toyota over several issues. Ours has issues when turning right, the front wheels slide, and the slippery road indicator comes on. My wife has just found this posting board, and there are many with similar issues on their 4runners.

unclegeo · January 2006

Did you ever get your vibration problem resolved? I am having the same issue.

clemdia · January 2006

The ADD switch turned out to be the real problem (see http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/add/)

The original transfer case WAS shot because the motor that engages 4WD was burned out (and that motor is not available as a single part -- ugh). According to Toyota the ADD switch was shorting and is what somehow ultimately burned out the transfer case motor.

Toyota Corporate advised my dealer to NOT drive the car with the flashing indicator until fixed because the motor in the new transfer case could burn out too.

Toyota was very good about it, and I suppose at worst I now have an "average" overall service record given that this was the only repair in 6 years.

Hope that helps --

Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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