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Comments
I always just use the Toyota plugs (ND's) because if you buy them from the dealer they are pre-gapped. And because that is what the truck came with. Needless to say you can save some money OR buy potentially better plugs at the auto parts store. That is a personal preference thing.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Anyway, I always buy from the dealer for that. Had one too many experiences of opening the parts store plugs and discovering they had been returned by someone else and were covered in grease from the last purchaser.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I want to install a satellite radio antenna on the roof (it's now sliding back and forth on front dash with mixed results). Basically, I need general advice on concealing a wire running from the dashboard to top back of the roof (at the top center of the rear door frame.
1. How can I send a wire up from the dash and under the post trim to the headliner? (I only know how to get the center dash apart -- does the post trim even come off?)
2. Can I use a fishtape to get from one end of the headliner to the other? Is there stuff that I could damage with a fishtape? Do I need to take the whole headliner down?
3. Anyone tried sneaking a satellite antenna wire out under the third brakelight gasket? (read about that "technique" on a Tacoma discussion group -- seems to me like trouble eventually)
TIA :confuse:
The 6 old plugs I removed were different brands (3 NGK and 3 DENSO). I know that Toyota often uses both in the factory and these are supposed to be replaced every 30K miles. Does this mean these are the original factory spark plugs? I purchased this car about 2-years ago (off-lease), so I assumed the normal maintenance schedule would have been followed. The plugs were well worn and my 4Runner (99K miles) appears to have more power now. I wonder if they had ever been replaced by the previous owner?
I don't know what material the electrode is made of? Any ideas? Has anyone ever used platinum or iridium plugs in a 3.4L 4Runner?
Drex
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
My 4Runner generates an annoying harmonic humming noise from the driveline at 70-75 MPH. Release the gas paddle or go faster will eliminate this noise. It started recently, after the master cylinder pressure sensor failed, which caused the trac lights on. The dealer has replaced the sensor and everything seems back to normal, except the humming noise.
I notice 2 TSBs on the similar issues (humming noise). Just wondering if anyone who has similar issues and got it fixed. Thanks in advance.
Anyone encounter a similar problem???
Thanks for any help or info.
Anyone encounter a similar problem???
Thanks for any help or info.
tidester, host
My 2003 came equipped with a factory alarm. Although I see it's optional on 2005 models, I've yet to see any 4Runner from 2003 forward that doesn't have a factory alarm. The flashing lamp is on the radio display.
Some less than reputable dealers, like my selling dealer Roseville Toyota in Roseville, California, try to sell the unaware an optional alarm system (for $800) even though the vehicle already came with an alarm system. The dealer alarm is afermarket, not factory, and just about pure profit for the dealer.
Can you or anyone recommend a platinum or iridium plug for my '03 4Runner? The dealer does not show anything except the standard 30K spark plug for my '03 Runner.
Drex
I am told the O2 sensor (that affects gas mileage) to replace is the one forward of the catalytic converter. Can anyone confirm that?
Drex :confuse:
thanks...appreciate it.
I love the SUV in all other aspects but this noise gets on my nerves very quickly.
Thanks for the help.
It's not under warranty after only 4K miles? I would think any reputable mechanic would at least talk price reduction after that short a time.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
You can expect excellent handling, good power, and braking second to none. Negatives are the 4Runner gets tossed around in crosswinds, rides rough, and has the crappiest HVAC controls I've ever had to deal with in 30 years of driving.
Just the same, nothing is perfect. The 4Runner was still the best vehicle in its class in 2003 and I have no regrets.
He has not told me how much he is going to charge me yet as he is still looking throught the paperwork, but I just wanted to ask other people's advice on the matter in order to be prepared. Shouldn't the freeze plugs be covered by his work?
Any technical advice is appreciated.
:mad:
I was thinking more that as a goodwill thing, they would help you out on the cost of doing it again if there is no warranty. After all, it is a very expensive repair that is meant to last MUCH longer than 4000 miles.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
For some reason I decided to install an aftermarket stereo. When it was all said and done everything worked except the lighting on the instrument panel. The warning lights on the panel work. The light that indicates "D" or "R" when in drive or reverse also works. The only problem is the overall illumination of the panel. I can't see a thing at night.
I tried fooling with the dimmer switch. I tested all of the fuses and they are fine.
Would the dimmer relay have something to do with it?
Could I have pulled out a wire somewhere?
Does anyone know where this light plugs into (i.e. behind the dash or glovebox) so I can see if pulled something out?
Any help or input would be appreciated.
Regardless - Thanks to all!
It's possible they might goodwill part of the repairs if it did not look like it was overheated in the meantime. If you have any doubts as to their work you might want to contact whichever state agency monitors auto repair shops, in Calif it's the Bureau fo Automotive Repair. It's possible there might be a history of complaints with this shop or the specific tech. If nothing else it could give you some leverage toward a compromise of some sort. I know the BAR here always strives to achieve something on the customers behalf + they will review the shops records with regard to that specific repairs -- food for thought. By the way the non factory coolant would not cause instant problems it's something that takes place over time. A dealer ususally checks PH level in coolant (their supposed to occaisionly).
"I have a 2005 V8 4WD with 24k miles. At my 15k service I had 90% left front and back. Most of my driving is freeway and I do tend to be easy on breaks. My Isuzu Rodeo went 150k before I insisted that we do the front pads."
I would like more responses specifically if there is a noticeable vibration on the steering wheel when braking straight or downhill...
Thanks in advance.
any trick suggest to me with many thanks...
If that don't work, there are still many options, but start with that as it will work most of the time. Also, make sure the bolt isn't spinning while you're trying to remove the nut. If it does spin, then use another wrench to stabilize the bolt, but be careful of any brake lines or other things that the wrench may come in contact with.