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brock1313, "Toyota 4Runner Vibrations" #2, 30 Aug 2006 10:25 pm
(Thanks for the suggestion Bob).
Thanks Steve!
I'll re-post my response here and if any of the hosts could delete my duplicate post under "vibrations"? Thanks!
Jollygreen, you didn't mention the mileage you have but here's a few things to try depending what mechanical abilities you have;
Start out by cleaning your injectors. Get a bottle of Chevron Techron Fuel Injector Cleaner. Can be bought at Advanced Auto Parts, Pep Boys or your local independent auto store. This is the best cleaner out on the market.
When your Limited is almost empty, go to an Amoco gas station and as per instructions on the bottle, empty the contents into your gas tank. Now fill up with Amoco Gold (Premium). The two combined will clean your fuel system.
How's the air filter?
Have you ever cleaned the MAS? The MAS (mass air-flow sensor) is located between the air filter and throttle plate in the flex hose. It has wires going to it so disconnect the wires and the clamps that secure it to the flex hose.
Looking at the MAS, it will contain a couple small wires within a "honey comb" looking inside. DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRES! Get some "Electrical Contact Cleaner" (also available at a auto parts store)and spray the inside of the MAS. Some might say to "use a q-tip to clean the wires and insides". Don't!
All you need is a small cotton fiber from a q-tip on one of the wires and you'll have all sorts of drivability problems.
After you have used the contact cleaner, get a can of compressed air and gently blow out the MAS.
While you have the intake flex hose off and MAS, check the throttle plate for carbon. If any is present, spray carb. cleaner on the throttle plate (closed) and allow to soak for a bit. With a clean rag, wipe the carbon off. Spray the rag with carb. cleaner and open the throttle plate. Wipe the inside clean.
After you're done, reassemble.
Hope this helps....
So honestly, I'm sure it won't help your mpg.
Just check the basics first and go from there.
Good luck to you!
But how's she (your '03 4R) running? And let us know how the gas mileage is after your first tank full.
The only thing those "gadgets" do is drain your wallet. :mad:
Bob
Don't know what type of driving you do; city or highway. If it's mostly city driving, after you do the above, I'd get your 4R out on the highway for say a nice 1/2 day trip. This will also help clean any top engine carbon out that might have accumulated and will aid in cleaning the injectors.
Glad the rest of the project went well for you!
Happy Holidays to you and yours!
I hope our wonderful hosts (how's that for "brown nosing") will let me post this link.
Folks, there are many fine men and women serving in the armed forces that won't be home for the holidays.
They are serving our country for us, our freedom and everything that America stands for.
Do yourself and them a favor by sending them an Holiday Card to show you appreciate what they are doing.
It only takes less than a minute, it's free and you'll show them that you care!
Please click on the link below, thanks much!
http://www.letssaythanks.com/Home.html
The TSB info (partial) is NV003-03 for your problem but it might have been revised.
Somewhere I saw that it wasn't strictly dedicated to the sunroof but also the pillars aiding to the rattle. It consists of adding (I believe) some strips in the sunroof but also a repair to the pillars...I think. :confuse:
Sorry I can't be of more help but maybe a search will come up with something.
Good luck!
I did get hit from behind while I was stopped at a light with a replacement of the back end and all body parts.
I've taken it to multiple places including the dealer and no resolve. The shake occurs at 65 - 70 MPH. I have had an alignment done, rear shocks replaced, tire rotate and balancing, 4 replacement tires, and the front brakes replaced.
All mechanics have said that the front suspension parts are fine.
I have read that maybe there is a special balancing for the factory wheels for some Toyotas. the lug centric.
Is this one of them?
Also, I have read the thread about the problem being characteristic on 06 model but this is a 00.
I have a 2WD 4 cylinder. I had Cooper Tires now I have winterforce tires. Both have the same problem. A smooth ride til i hit 65 MPH.
Could it be a drive shaft?
I am feeling it in the steering wheel and the gas pedal. It's not intense but it's bumpy and unpleasant. My passengers also feel it though not as strong.
any one with any insight, please advise.
thank you.
First thing I'd do is to check the fuel pump pressure when it acts up. I can't remember the exact PSI for your model year but it shouldn't be hard to find.
Have you had your 4R since new? If so and the fuel pump has never been replaced, I'd suspect that.
If the fuel pump checks out fine, have a tech. hook up a scanner and see if any of your injectors are leaking. That too will cause a hard/no start condition.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Thanks
Mike
sdpinc@comcast.net
nedzel, "Toyota 4Runner: Problems and Solutions" #1090, 8 Jul 2005 3:53 pm
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I use a dedicated snow tire in the winter (Nokians). The Dunlops braking and turning performance in snow sucked.
Thanks,
If you like your Dunlops, get another set. The last I looked, the Cross Terrains were a lot more expensive than the Dunlops and I haven't noticed any significant improvement with them.
1. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position to make sure the odometer is not in the trip mode. (3 modes odom, trip1 and 2)
2. Turn the ignition key back to the "off" position.
3. Hold the trip meter reset button down, then turn the key to the "on" position. Hold down the trip reset button until the maint light goes out.
Note:Before the light goes off, it illuminates for 3 seconds, flashes for 2 and iluminates for 1.
Mine was a '90, and I didn't get a mailer for it either. This is because Toyota did not have my address, and they don't have yours either by the sound of it. I read about it and went in to ask if mine was included (it was). Most of the '90-'95 Runners were included, plus some of the previous generation and a whole pile of Tacomas of similar years.
I wouldn't call this one urgent, especially considering the miles on some of these (really old at this point) trucks.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Ref the tire discussion: For what it is worth... My 2006 4R has the Bridgestone Dueler H/T as OEM. Like Jolly, I really got to test them in the Colorado blizzard the past few days. The tires and the vehicle performed very well in about the worst snow conditions possible. Of course, it is difficult to compare what the performance on this vehicle might have been with different tires because I haven't driven it with anything other than the OEM tires.
However, I did put Michelins (forgot which model) on a 94 Ford Explorer Sport (4WD), and Michelin Cross-Terrains on a 99 Olds Bravada (AWD) that I had until I bought the 4R.
I find the Bridgestone H/T tires to be a bit more aggressive in heavy snow than I recall the Michelins being. But, what I really liked about the Michelin Cross-Terrains was that they were a great tire in normal highway driving (including rain), were a very satisfactory tire in snow conditions, and seemed to me to be a better tire on ice than the more aggressive snow tires. (Recognizing that nothing is great on ice if your speed is too high.) I've been in heavy rain a few times with my Bridgestone H/Ts when the 4R seemed to hydroplane at around 45 - 50 mph on an interstate highway. That has worried me.
Jolly mentioned gas mileage. I got better gas mileage and a smoother ride with the Michelin Cross-Terrains on my Bravada than I did with the OEM Michelins that came on the car. That might or might not be true on a 4R.
Other Snow Issue: As bad as the blizzard was here in Colorado last Wednesday, I had no trouble getting around in the 4R... except for visibility!!! The weather often was at or near zero visibility, but the most serious problem was the wiper blades icing up and being absolutely ineffective. Defrosters worked fine, but I had to stop about every 200 yards in the last 10 miles on the way home to break the ice off the wiper blades. They would then clean the windshield for only a few minutes before they started icing up again. When someone invents a wiper de-icer, all these vehicles will be much safer.
Jolly... Merry Christmas and Cheers from an old AWACer. (You know how we like maintaining control.)
WP
Driving out west we averaged 18.8 mpg, actual. Since this was our first road trip in my 4R, I thought this wasn't too bad considering we had a head wind all the way to the Rockies. In the Rockies, I was impressed with the power the V6 had, didn't shift into 3rd gear that often and really had all the pep we needed considered we were loaded with luggage and presents.
You all I'm sure have heard about the winter storm that hit Denver and surrounding area's?
Well we left Durango to come home on Thursday, the day after the storm. Durango didn't get the snow like they did to the north and east so we headed towards Wolf Creek Pass but they were blasting the mountian for avalanches. We turned around at Pagosa Springs and headed southwest into New Mexico hoping to take I-70 through Kansas then north home. At Pueblo Colorado, I-25 was open north to Denver (finally) but I-70 remained closed. I-25 should have stayed closed but the powers to be opened it.
Folks, there are peoples homes in Denver that the snow on the roof meets the snow on the ground!
After 13 hours, made it to just north east of Denver off of I-76 and spent the night, Brighton Colorado.
Early Friday we left Brighton and I-76 was a mess! I-80 was even worse with more cars and trucks in the ditches than I ever care to see again. The mpg coming home was 21.5 actual but that was with a slight tail wind and "down hill" to home.
Bottom line is that even with the crappy Dunlop (factory) tires, this truck handled very well in the mountian passes and ice packed highways. 4 wheel drive worked great as I had to "play" with it if you know what I mean. The DAC (downhill assist control) worked very well going through the truns and passes in the Rockies. I'm pleased with the mileage I got also.
Cons would be the VSS which would kick in every time the back wheels spun...rather annoying sound but I could shut it "off" with the center diff lock button "on".
Can Toyota make a softer windshield?!
It's rather hard to avoid salt from being kicked up from the trucks/cars ahead of you but my windshield is littered with tiny white holes from the salt.
Happy to be home but hopefully, someday Durango will be home.
Also, there is a TSB out on it.
Good luck!
I'm pretty sure that wiper blades freezing in the kind of weather that we just had in Colorado is not a problem unique to the 4R. Additionally, I wouldn't discount a 4R the next time you need a new vehicle because of gas mileage. My experience indicates that the 4R is as good or better than any other 4WD SUV in or near its class. If you don't do a lot of towing, I recommend you consider the V6 next time. I'm very happy with the performance and gas mileage of mine. :shades:
I put dedicated snow tires on mine in the winter (Nokian Hakkapeliittas). With the Dunlops, I found that starting up was on in the snow, but stopping and turning was downright scary.
Given how little snow you get in MD, I'd say either would work. Just use extra caution during those few snow days you get.
I'm new here, need an answer to a suspension problem. I have a 1998 4runner 4cyl, stick. 200k miles with lots of dirt road driving. I have a problem with the car swaying uncontrollably from side to side. Only happens above 60mph on a level road. I had new shocks put in and that didn't affect the problem. Letting up on the accelerator stops the swaying.
My mechanic has no clue, he recommended the new shocks.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks.
First off you need to find (or the dealership) what else in on the same circuit as the windshield washer pump. It should be a dedicated circuit to ony the washer/wipers. I take it that when just the wipers are used, everything is fine?
It could be as simple as a shared ground. That is when the washer pump is activated, where it gets it's ground, the same ground point is used for the fuel system or related system. The draw from the wipers and washers is so great that it starves any other operations from functioning properly.
You can try this depending how mechanically inclined you are.
Find which wire is the ground for the washer pump. Now attach another wire to that and fasten the other end to a good ground... say the battery negative.
See if the problem still exists.
Good luck and let us know.
Thanks!