Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

silor · January 2007

I am beside myself with what has been an ongoing problem with my 2003 4runner 4WD Ltd (V8). When I come to a stop, it has a noticeable thump. When I accelerate, it does the same thing. Not every time, but enough where it is noticeable to passengers in the car. The toyota dealership has been of little help over the years. I did have a Toyota "master mechanic" tell me it was my slip yoke and that it needed lubing. That worked for a while, but eventually the clunking came back. Every time I go in for an oil change, I tell them to lube the yoke, but the problem has persisted for years. Either they aren't doing the work or are using the wrong product to lube. Where else, besides Toyota dealership, should I take my car? Oh yeah, just had my car in the Toyota shop for 2 days because of an oil leak that turned out to be a "shifter actuator leaking O-ring that was deformed". (Huh?) Fortunately it was a warranty item. Did I mention I've had to replace the brake rotors? This car doesn't even have 50,000 miles. I do love the friggen car and it's reliability for the most part, but am very disappointed with the problems I am having.

Any advice would be appreciated!

dpfan_6 · January 2007

I bought a 2006 SR5 used about two months ago. In the first few weeks, the alarm would randomly go off after unlocking and opening the driver side door. I took it to a Toyota dealership and the remote/key fob was re-programmed. I was told this is an aftermarket alarm installed by Toyota when they are brought into the country but not in the factory. It's the red LED switch on the lower left hand side of the dash.

Everything was fine for awhile and it has begun to randomly go off again. This is so frustrating and embarassing as it seems to do this at all the worst times (ie: parked next to a cop or at 2 in the morning in my driveway). Does anyone have a similar problem or suggestions to stop this? I'm about to get the whole thing uninstalled or disconnected. :mad:

dirtdriver · January 2007

I have met the my Regional Customer Service Representative on this issue and on the drive train vibration and moaning sound.
The rep told me Toyota considers these issues "normal operation characteristics" of the 4Runner. The rep also indicated that new company 4Runner they were driving had the same issues. Read "Truck Trend" January/February 2007,pp 88 re:"Good Vibrations Gone".
If you happen to get a dealer that can fix the problem please post info as to what they did and how you convinced them.

4runnerlover1 · January 2007

Hi there,
I have a 98 4runner that has 118k miles. About 3 months ago, there is a whining sound or high whisping sound became to be bothersome. It only happens when the car is in motion no matter if it is in gear or not. It has becom more and more. I recently changed rear differntial and transimssion oil but nothing seemed help. Could anyone help? Thanks.

silor · January 2007

I am so surprised with how Toyota's service department is handling this obviously ongoing problem they are having with many of their V8 4runners. I am going to have my slip yoke lubed one more time, track the miles it takes until the problem starts up again, then take it to an independent garage to get a diagnoses. Then I am going back to Toyota to give them one more chance to fix this problem. If they give me the run around, I guess I will have no choice but to go to corporate.

I will keep you posted on my progress!

utahsnowmonkey · January 2007

So now it gets stranger. I have had a past issue with the EFI fuse blowing. First was told it was an exposed wire- fixed this and it seemed to solve the problem for a while. Started doing it again after a trouble free interval. Was told it was a bad relay. This was replaced. Now the same EFI fuse keeps blowing- with no consistency.

canddmeyer · January 2007

This issue was posted a bunch early on. My 2003 V6 SR5 also made the same driveline noise. I accepted it as normal until I read Edmunds. Resolution: I used my grease gun with Mobil1 synthetic grease. Problem gone. I greased it again a few months ago when I noticed the driveline appeared dry. I don't know where the grease goes as none of it is on the undercarriage of the vehicle. I've been to two different dealers and neither lubes the driveshaft as near as I can tell. My vehicle has about 25,000 miles and has been mostly dependable. The interior being noisy while driving is my biggest disappointment.

I agree the dealer should be more proactive, but I'll do whatever I have to do to protect my investment. Thankfully the vehicle still has superior resale and trade-in value. I wish I had the V8.

silor · January 2007

It seems unless you specifically request Toyota to lube the yoke, they just ignore it. I have even had ocassion when bringing it in for maintenance where the service guys don't even know what a slip yoke is! It is obviously an ongoing problem. I did look at past postings relating to this problem. It was helpful. Thank you for the advice.

dirtdriver · January 2007

Suggest you smack both rear interior panels with the palm of your hand. I had the gas door release cable come loose on the drivers side behind rear trim panel.
Seat problem is more of a rattle sound and if so could also be the drop down rear center cup holder assembly. There is a TSB on that one.

hiker_jon · January 2007

The problem is fixed. Found a good mechanic (Tony) at City Toyota in Daly City (SF Bay Area). He found that a bushing on a brace (maybe not the right term) on the right rear (drive) wheel was bad. This caused the wheel to wobble at high speeds when accelerating. Tony said he had never seen this before. Hope this answer can help someone else in the future.

af160 · January 2007

Noticed that my Check Engine light and VSC lights came on on my drive home. When I parked I turned off the ignition and tightened the gas cap (thinking pesky O2 sensor.) Turned engine back on and lights were still on. Anyone have any thoughts? I looked at other posts but didn't see a true fix.
It's due for 45,000 service soon anyway so I am bringing into the dealer...

nippononly · January 2007

If the CEL was caused by the gas cap, it will take several cycles of the engine to turn the light off.

The gas cap wouldn't trigger the VSC light though.

thriftyone · January 2007

My 1994 Toyota 4Runner (165K) also is making some strange engine noises. The most problematic noise sounds like a "tapping" sound. The noise increases in frequency the faster the throttle (e.g. less time between taps the faster I go). The noise can still be heard when the car is at a stop and/or in neutral. I had the shims on the engine valves replaced ($700) and it did not correct the problem. Anyone have similiar problems?

pat84 · January 2007

I have had my 2003 V8 Sport dealer maintained. I've never had any weird noises starting, stopping or running. Maybe some dealers do grease the drive shaft. They told me they have to remove one of the skid plates to service the vehicle.
I replaced my OEM Dunlop with Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo tires.
I air them down to 20 psi and go out on the beaches on the NC Outer Banks.
They get really good traction

netabeer · January 2007

I have a 94 4-runner with the same type of problem. I have already replaced the turn signal/headlight switch assembly and it helped for a couple of days but did not fix the problem. I have noticed that my problem seems to be worse when the outside temperature is really cold. This morning was really cold and I lost power to my radio and lights and my car almost shut off completely while driving to work. I would love to know if you ever found the problem with yours or if anyone else may have some advice. Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Netabeer

4runnin1 · January 2007

My 2002 4Runner is having a couple problems. There is a clunking noise that sounds in the back underneath the car. The noise occurs whenever turns are made. I thought it was my spare tire loose, but I've tightened it and the noise is still occuring.

Also, I was up at Mammoth Mountain not too long ago and had chains on my car. I'm not sure if it was the chains, cold weather or all the slipping on the ice that caused this to happen, but after I tookn my chains off and was leaving Mammoth my engine check light came on as well as the TRAC OFF & VSC lights. What could be causing these problems?

almurdaah · January 2007

I have a 1997 Toyota 4Runner, SR5 with 90,000 miles. While driving yesterday, and as i accelerated, the car stuttered and turned off. Tried cranking it, with no success, with the check engine and other lights on the dashboard on. Lights and power is all on, so i do not think it was an electric problem. Waited 15 minutes, pumped the gas pedal, and then started, it started fine. Drove it around yesterday & today, and it drives fine.
Just worried this will happen again. Friend tells me it could be a fuel/fuel injection/fuel pump problem, and to try using a fuel injection cleaner in the gas tank.

Mechanic said he can not tell, "bring it back when it breaks"

Any ideas, any one?

charlie4runner · January 2007

I've had the same problem on my 2003 4Runner. It took me 9 months, 3 driveshafts, and alot of persistance. Type "Clunk" on Edmunds Search.

I eventually had a Lexus drive shaft put in, and it was fixed.

I really don't think it has anything to do with slip yokes, and all that grease crap. The driveshaft was out of tolerance. Apparently, Lexus has a actual service bulletin for the same problem.

Good Luck- I mean it!

silor · January 2007

Wow...this is a real pain. I guess I'll find a good mechanic to fix this. I'm assuming the driveshaft is out of warranty. Maybe I'll try Toyota's maintenance department one more time and tell them "driveshaft" and see what happens. I'm a woman, by the way, which makes it all the more interesting trying to get mechanics to take you seriously! Thank you for the advice.

charlie4runner · February 2007

Check your warranty, I know the Drivetrain Warranty is usually longer than the bumper-to-bumper.

I don't believe the driveshaft is an expensive item. The actual work involved removing bolts and replacing the shaft. I would say, it takes less than 15-20 minutes to make the swap (including putting the car on the hoist).

Just to make sure you have the same problem: I have a 2003 or 2004 4 Runner-V8 Limited.

The clunk feels like someone has rear-end you when your in traffic. Or it feels like your pulling a trailer, and the ball hitch has some slack. The feeling is hard to reproduce, and occurs randomly. But mostly when you are slowing down or accelerating from a complete stop.

I just found this in my Files: Here is the Lexus Service Bulletin:

For Lexus Model GX470 Year: 2003
Service Bulletin #: 00104, Date of Bulletin: Apr.13, 2004
NHTSA Item Number: 10007096
Component: Powertrain Drive Line Drive shaft
Summary: Rear Drive shaft Clunk/thump Noise

Be very careful. I had 3 other Toyota 4 Runner shafts installed. The first time, my dealer didn't take down the Code, and likely replaced it with the same shaft. The second time, they had a different code, but it didn't completely eliminate the thump. I can't remember the 3rd time. Oh yeah, the third time, they took the shaft off and reversed it. They said it was recommended by head office. That threw me completely off, I didn't ralize the part could be reversed so easily, especially since the part was tapered differently at each end.

Try doing a little research on www.clublexus.com (search: Thump or clunk- You'll have alot of interesting reading)
Be very critical about what you read. Alot of other people have grease problems. They either have different problems or they are Secret Toyota Spys trying to misinform people about a little grease will fix a bigger problem.

Also, If you complained about this prior to your Warranty running out, perhaps it is still covered since it was not yet fix. My Dealer's standard phrase, was "I'd fix it if I knew what the problem was. Then he'd say I don't have a problem" Also, the dealer took me more seriously when I opened a file through Toyota Canada- Customer Service.

Let me know how you make out.

co_4runner · February 2007

I have a 2003 SR5 V8 4WD with a starting problem. Sometimes when I turn the key nothing happens. The battery is not dead and if I move the shifter it will start. I'm sure it's something to do with the neutral start safety switch. I've had it to the dealer numerous times and they cannot duplicate the the problem so they will not replace the switch.

I've contacted Toyota and they said the same.

Has anyone else experienced the same problem?

I also have the driveline clunk, piston slap, driveline vibration @ 70MPH; and no heat from the driver's side vent under the dash problems in which Toyota has told me is normal for the vehicle.

jollygreen1 · February 2007

I have an 03 V8 Limited with 40 thousand miles and no problems yet. I bought a Toyota for dependability and quality and so far it has lived up to my expectations. The only problem with it is my wife thinks it is too big and will not drive it. I am thinking of selling it and buying a RAV-4, but that would be a real let down from my quiet, smooth running (bad gas mileage) 4R. Good luck.

spydergear · February 2007

I had a similar problem, the remote keyless would activate "unlock" and the lights would flash and alarm beep but nothing would happen when you keyed "lock". The drivers door toggle would activate "unlock" too but not "lock". I pushed the drivers door toggle HARD forward to the lock position and back to unlock a few times and eventually the lock engaged. After that the remote keyless lock worked too. I think either the toggle was hanging up or the contact was not quite working. In any event the remote would not lock as I think the misaligned toggle somehow inactivated the locking feature.

dan90 · February 2007

I just took my 2004 4-Runner in for its 30,000 mile chcck up. When it went in the AC was working fine. When it came out, the blower would not work. The dealer denies any blame. Says that the blower was not operated -- and they could not have caused the problem. They say that the motor is burned up and will need to be replaced. Service included changing the cabin filter. Motor is a V-8. Can any mechanic out there tell me if the service could have contributed to the problem?? It seems strange that it was working going in and was burned up comming out of service.
I keep the thermostat set on 72 and it was on 69 when they parked the car in the service area for pick-up. Yet they say they did not operate the A/C. Comments??

andrew17 · February 2007

I intend to buy a 10-16 mile radius walkie-talkie. The 2006 4Runner V-8 manual states the following on Page 79:
"Do not perform any of the following changes without consulting your Toyota dealer. Such changes can interfere with the proper operation of the SRS front airbag system in some cases.
*Installation of electronic devices such as a mobile two-way radio, cassette tape player or compact disc player..."

Questions;
1. Does a pocket walki-talkie would fall into this category? Would it interfere with the ignition/ alarm system?
2. Does one need a license to operate a walkie-talkie that qualifies to communicate beyond 3 miles? (How to get it?)
3. Is there somebody who tried to operate a walkie-talkie in a 2004-2006 4Runner/ or Rav-4?

Your help will be highly appreciated! =Andrew

bobgordon · February 2007

Andrew, are the walkie-talkie's you will be using be portable? Takes batteries?
If so, you'll be fine.
What the manual is referring to is a "hard wired" two-way radio device. Meaning that you actually wire the radio into your truck, positive...negative...etc.
Question 1; No, the pocket walkie-talkie does not fall into that category nor will it interfere with ignition/SRS/alarm systems.
Question 2; You will not need a license.
Question 3; I've used my portable walkie-talkie in my old '04 Highlander and currently in my '06 4Runner with no problems at all.

Hope this helped.

chedderhead · February 2007

I have a 1990 4runner. It idles high at 1200 rpms when warmed up. When I am on the brake the engine starts to surge. The rpms drop to 900 then right back up to 1200 this continues on in 2 second intervals until you take your foot off the brake. Any ideas on what causes this?

andrew17 · February 2007

Dear Bobgordon!
I intend to buy a shir-pocket size, battery operated walkie-talkie for a cross-country trip, possibly the same you have now in your 4Runner. If it works for you - will work fine for me. Were you able to run it on stand-by a whole day? Is this a Motorola or other brand?

Thanks for the great info! =Andrew

bobgordon · February 2007

Hi Andrew,
No, I can't last a day on stand-by, will go through batteries.....
The brand I have is V-Tech with a range of about 4 miles. But I want to replace it with another brand (more powerful) that I can use either battery mode or plug into the cig. lighter socket.
I'm going to look at the Motorola radios.

bobgordon · February 2007

It could be a vacuum leak, could be carbon build up around the throttle plate.
Start with removing the air cleaner intake hose and inspect the throttle plate for carbon.
Take a can of carb. cleaner and spray down the throttle plate. Of course engine "off" and throttle plate closed. Let the cleaner sit a bit then wipe and carbon off with a clean rag.
Next soak a rag with carb. cleaner and hold the throttle plate open and wipe the inside of the throttle housing down.
Try this easy fix (hopefully) first....
Good luck!

lightminer · March 2007

I haven't kept up lately and don't know if there is a general fix for this problem yet - but was mulling over some ideas the other night. For those who do have the problem - do any of you have the Valor (sp?) exhaust tip? I've heard one person say that the cabin air intake is too close to the exhaust and this is the source of the problem - so I wonder if getting the chrome/gold whatever exhust tip - which I assume would extend the tailpipe several inches (which may not be true) might help. Also - one might even just take some heavy duty aluminum foil, or thin tin from a hardware store, and extend their exhaust by 3 inches or so - can someone with this problem try that? Could work perhaps... If the problem is indeed too tight a coupling of the exhaust and intake that is. Metal tape might last a week or at least a few days to prove the concept... They get hot so I don't know if duct tape would work for attaching the aluminum foil or tin.

tidester · March 2007

You may be interested in this discussion: Sulfur Smell from Toyota 4Runner

tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper

silor · March 2007

For whatever reason, I never got a notice on my email that you had sent this wonderfully informative response to my "clunking" problem. I apologize for not responding. Here is the latest; my 2003 V8 4runner was just at the Toyota dealer for 4 full days. I told them the clunk is so hard at times, it feels like I've been rear ended. I'm certain the first day they had my car, no one even looked at it. They finally diagnosed it as needing a new drive shaft. Guess what? They replaced it and it still clunked. So they replaced it again. So we shall see if the clunk persist or if it is gone.

I must say, I had a wonderful service rep. He knew I was frustrated. And all the work was covered under warranty.

However, if I feel even one clunk, I am going to tell them exactly what you sent me regarding the Lexus Service Bulletin. I really do appreciate all the great information you sent me.

charlie4runner · March 2007

Glad to be of assistance. I know the feeling when you try to explain the problem to the Service Dept.

Good Luck, I hope you get it fixed.

andrew17 · March 2007

Hi, Bobgordon!
Thanks for your advice - we bought a Midland brand/18 mile radius/ voice activated unit; at DICKS sporting goods store in Dulles, Virginia, for $69 (last year model, on sale this week, regular price was $129). -You are right, we don't need a speicial permit to use it; a gentlemen in the store was helping us because he had one, too. He told us that in a city we should not expect more than 2 blocks of communication range.

Thanks again for your help - I hope other people can take advantage of your experiment! =Andrew

dealkiller · March 2007

When I washed my 05 4Runner last Sunday, I noticed the black plastic(rubber?) roof seal (which running from the back to front under the roof rack, and all the way along the windshield to the hood) popped out at the passenger side upper-right corner of windshield. It is easily come out more if you pull harder. I tried to push it back in, but it still pop out a little bit comparing the other side. Does anybody has the same problem with their 4Runner? Will the dealer repair it under the warranty? Thanks in advance for any inputs.

bobgordon · March 2007

DK, yes, they should repair that under warranty. I haven't had that problem on my '06 4R but I do know the strip you are talking about. I'm not sure if there are clips that hold that in place or just pressure of the seal against the roof....let us know what happens at the dealer.

Andrew, nice deal on the radio. Congrats!

andrew17 · March 2007

1. Dear Bobgordon: (on walkie-talkie purchase)
Thanks, Bob! We were relying on your advice/got a good deal - it's all your fault! (As we say it in Europe: now I owe you a cup of coffee.)

2. Dear Dealkiller! (Roof seal popped out)
Regarding the roof seal of the 4Runner '05: you must take it to the dealership because it is not possible to push it back by bare hand because of the seal had not been originally inserted the correct way and it is deformed. As it warms up/ cools down, it will work its way out - take care of this annoying issue during the warranty.

Could you please tell us how did they fix the seal? Thanks: Andrew

dealkiller · March 2007

Bobgordon & Andrew,

Thanks for your inputs. Talked to the dealer service rep, things went very smooth. He said he will order that part for me right away, and will call me to make appointment when the part comes in. He calls the seal "roof mold". Just like you said (also according to his explanation), that thing will clip into places if you clean it really well before installation. He also said the weather is a big factor on deforming it. To fix it right, you have to wait for warm weather. At installation time, it will stick better if the temperature is high. I'll let you know how things go after the dealer visit.

andrew17 · March 2007

Dealkiller,

The weather is not a factor: they should keep your car inside during the night to let the metal/lining warm up to room temperature, then clean it, and paste it in. That is how cars are handled in the factory.

Good luck! =Andrew

sjhughes · March 2007

I have a 99 4runner that was able to turn over but the engine began losing power and would then turn off. After a few tries I statrted it again and reved it for about 30 sec. and it stayed on and I was able to drive it. I let it sit for about 4 hours and was able to start it with no problems. Any Ideas?

andrew17 · March 2007

Dear Sjhughes!
Please check your fuel pump. When did you change your fuel filter? Could there be some water droplet frozen on the surface of the filter? Do you use any gasoline additives to get rid of the condensate water in the tank? (I use the Techron by Chevron, but there are cheaper alternatives on the market. As I understood: 1, your cold engine tends to stall at low rpms, 2, works after it had warmed up; and 3, there are no warning lights on the dash board.) I assume that it is a V-6 engine. Am I correct? =Andrew

chedderhead · March 2007

I took it to my mechanic and he said that I needed a new mass air flow meter. I found a used on ebay for $100 because a new one was $800. This stopped the idle surging but it still idles high at 1200 rpms when warmed up. I took it back and they could not get it to idle normal. They checked for vacuum leaks and adjusted things up and down with no luck. Any other ideas. Maybe a bad sensor or the computer.

bobgordon · March 2007

Try this;
Disconnect the (-) negative battery cable and leave off for 10 or so minutes. You'll loose all your radio presets and have to adjust the clock but this may work.
Then drive your truck for a while so the ECM can relearn.

jusamaphonic · April 2007

I have a 91 4Runner, and it would seem that the power steering has failed me. For the year and a half that I've owned it, I've suspected that this day would come, as copious amounts of fluid have been visible around the pump, reservoir, and everywhere beneath. It may be possible, however, that the system has finally leaked enough fluid to that I'm running low, and that a refill will fix the problem temporarily (after working air out of the system).

Question #1: What is the likelihood that the failure is the gasket between the pump and the reservoir? I'd hate to drop a hundred dollars when the problem could be solved for pennies. Is there any easy way to check this?

Question #2: In addition to the high pressure line and the return line, there are two additional lines that come from the same port on the bottom-passenger side toward the front of the pump (beneath the high pressure line). What are these for? I'm guessing perhaps a brake assist of some sort?

As always your sage advice is greatly appreciated.

dealkiller · April 2007

The dealer ended up with ordering wrong parts (how typical). The mold is actually containing 3 pieces (from hood to front roof rack mounting, between 2 roof rack mounting, from the back roof rack mounting to the end). They only ordered the one between 2 roof rack mounting. They removed it and cleaned the groove. The reason of popping up is because of one piece of beaten-up double side tape has lost its stickiness. The dealer used a new piece of double side tape and put the mold back to the groove. So far so good.

gdh3 · April 2007

Help..I need advice on what kind of shock absorbers to go with to replace my current stock shocks on my 01 4Runner Ltd. The ride has really gotten rough as of late. I want a smoother ride. This truck rarely sees agressive off road action. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
sincerely,
gh

ucsc · April 2007

Hi,

Have you changed your coolant recently? If the thermo sensor in the coolant system is broken, you may also get the surging problem.

I had SERIOUS idling problem in another vehicle after 120K mile service. Sometimes the idle was so LOW that the engine would stall. Sometimes the idle was so HIGH 1600rpm that the car could climb a hill in idle. My solution is: have a NEW idling motor installed and coolant thermo sensor replaced once. This pretty much fixed the problem. But for an old car, I still had to unplug battery to reset ECU several times, clean throttle body every half year to help the engine breath better. Hope this will help.

UCSC

gdh3 · April 2007

Anybody have good experiences to share with regard to shocks and tires that they replaced. I have to replace mine and was looking for suggestions on brands.
Thanks in advance.
gh

nedzel · April 2007

I replaced my OEM Dunlops on my 2003 4Runner with Michelin CrossTerrains. Can't say that I've noticed any big difference (except in the wallet -- ouch).

Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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