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Comments
1) I've always had the oil and filter changed every 3K on all my vehicles and they lasted forever. For the most part, I've changed the oil every 3k, but on the last couple of changes I've moved to 5k. The maintenance guide and the dealer mark oil changes at 5K. Should I stick with the ole fashion rule of every 3k or go with the 5k interval. Mostly highway miles with no towing.
2) I need to replace my original Michelin Cross Terrain tires due to 2 cuts that can't be fixed. Probably would have gone 90k without a problem. There are no Michelins in New England. Has anyone replaced the OEMs with General Tire Grabbers? Comments relative to the Michelins?
The Grabber has gotten good reviews. You might consider also the Nittos Terra Grappler if they are available in your area. The BFG All terrains are a safe choice as well.
There isn't a smoother quieter tire than the Michelins, so keep that in mind. However, just about every tire is cheaper than the Michelins as well!
Try www.tires-easy.com - They ship every where.
i actually had to put a new tire on it...and the rim is bent just slightly..but holding air fine. guys at shop said to just put the ever so slightly bent tire on back instead of front...but like still on. any ideas?
Could this be caused by a poor fuel quality and me putting too great a demand on the engine? I recently began using the local Xxxx Gas 87 octane, which I’ve noticed has been “knocking” a lot lately (much more than usual). In this case, I had the A/C on, going up a big hill, trying to accelerate from a stop. I am wondering if I may have been asking too much from the engine with a poor grade of gas. I am thinking of trying another brand of gas for a while and moving go 89 octane to see if this changes the result. According to several web sites, one other possibility is that the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) is bad.
Any recommendations?
Please comment.
Cheers
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I am looking for shop manual caliber
Thanks
Good luck!
1. Oil drain bolt/plug (bolt to drain the 6.6 US qts of oil)
2. Center cap drain plug (small O-ring to drain the oil from the Oil Filter element)
3. Cap with Oil Filter Housing element (big O-ring to remove the Oil Filter housing element with the 65mm 14 flutes special service tool)
I called TCS and the Toyota dealership and got conflicting answers.
But I agree with you.
Sounds like you've correctly interpreted the owners manual, so the vehicle may have an issue. Some of us early on found out the 4H took too long to engage and you'd be stuck before the 4wd actuated. The remedy was to leave it in 4H unlocked all the time.
Do you really need the SST? Or will one of the many faceted cartridge oil filter grabbing tools work?
1. Oil drain bolt/plug (bolt to drain the 6.6 US qts of oil) 30 ft-lbs of torque
2. Center cap drain plug (small O-ring to drain the oil from the Oil Filter element) 10 ft-lbs of torque
3. Cap with Oil Filter Housing element (big O-ring to remove the Oil Filter housing element with the 65mm 14 flutes special service tool) 18 ft-lbs of torque
I had to buy the Craftsman torque wrench (5-80 ft-lbs), since the one I had was for higher torque setting (25-125 ft-lbs).
I have a 2010 4runner limited and brought into the dealer for an oil change at 5k miles as instructed in the owners manual. Service told me this truck has synthetic oil and should not be changed until 10K. I am somewhat concerned that I am not following the owners manual.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Below is a list of qualified Toyota vehicles for the 10k miles oil change interval:
The notification, dated December 15, 2009.
The included vehicles are:
2010 Toyota Camry (4 cylinder)
2010 Toyota Prius
2010 Toyota Tundra (small V8)
2010 Toyota Sequoia (small V8)
2010 Toyota FJ Crusier
2010 Toyota 4Runner (6 cylinder)
2010 Scion xD
For detailed info see also:
http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-iii-2010-prius-care-maintenance-troubleshooting/- - 73815-some-2010-toyota-vehicle-oil-change-intervals-officially-revised-10000-mil- - es-1-year-verified.html#post1026148
http://priuschat.com/news/toyota-upping-oil-change-interval-10000-miles-2010-pri- - us-other-toyota-models
Thanks, Dan
One thing I have been thinking of is removing the ADD system and repalceing it with mannual "lock-ins".
It does not do it again until it has sat for a week or so. I have less than 20K miles on it. Sometimes it does not do it (probably when that lifter is not trying to open). My problem is that I spent $600 on the dealer manuals and the engine does not seem to have hydraulic lifters! Of course it is fine when I take it to the dealer.
Maybe we have the same problem... but, I am not sure what it is.
Bob
I had a driveability issue. Occurring months apart, the vehicle stalled twice while driving. The second time I figured I would have the vehicle inspected. My local Toyota service center had shut down last year, so I went to the closest one.
The service rep reported that I needed the following;
Replace Mass Air flow sensor: $468.98 (276.00 labor; 192.98 parts)
With the above, they said the following was mandatory:
Throttle Body serice - $186.99 (125.00 labor; 61.99 parts)
Finally, they said my ignition wires were not Toyota. That was strange to hear.
They replaced the wires for $184.37. (105.95 labor; 78.42 parts)
Total bill: $840.34 plus tax.
I gave them the go-ahead and the car was ready for pickup within two hours or less. Reading the bill in detail afterward, that two hour window of labor ran: $506.95. That sounded like a lot, considering that all the work might have been done by one technician. Parts pricing is suspicious, as well. And maybe the throttle body service stated as mandatory might not have been.
Thanks
Thanks
Brad