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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • gtwgtw Member Posts: 46
    Just replace the 2 brushes in the starter for like $12. I have the original starter in my 1991 4Runner and replaced the brushes once. Works like new.
  • tangmantangman Member Posts: 127
    If you hear a grinding noise, usually the antenna mask cable (nylon) is stripped. You have to access the motor through the wheel well, by taking the liner our. In my 4-Runners (96&99), the antenna and the motor are on the passenger side.

     

    If you only have to replace the cable, you do not need to access the motor. When you unscrew the outer nut on the mask, and turn the radio off, then on, it will usually expel the cable. You can then check the cable to see if it is striped. I am a novice mechanic, only fixing mine, so some else in the forum may want to add more detail.

     

    Tangman
  • waid10waid10 Member Posts: 21
    I just noticed a small tear/rip (about 1.5 inches) in the side of the driver seat on my 2001 4Runner.

     

    Does anyone have suggestions on the best approach to fixing this tear?

     

    Thanks.
  • ghabbghabb Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased an 04 4runner V8 and cannot get it in to 4wd low.

    I turn the dial on the dashboard to go into 4wd low and the light on the dashboard blinks and I hear a beep but they both never stop. Any suggestions. Do you need to be in a specific gear to get into 4wd low? Speed?
  • rjordanrjordan Member Posts: 30
    <Do you need to be in a specific gear to get into 4wd low? Speed?>

    Your question indicates that you are trying this while the vehicle is moving. Read your owner's manual and you will see that Toyota states that to shift from H4 to L4, you must bring the vehicle to a stop and with the brake held down, shift into neutral and then turn the drive control switch fully clockwise.

    Repeat this procedure to go from L4 to H4 and turn the drive control switch counterclockwise. Toyota's instructions also made a mistake in using the words "Clockwise and Counterclockwise" as instructed as the words should be reversed. If the light still blinks, then don't use the 4wd and take it back to the dealer for a checkup.
  • ghabbghabb Member Posts: 2
    THANK YOU MR RJORDAN!
  • runnerboy1runnerboy1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi idntnvu,

    I bought a 4Runner( 1999 4WD SR5) in last August ,at 77,000 miles .I paid 16,499 $., so yours is a very good deal.Mine was fully serviced before delivery,timing belt replaced and all transmission fluids, flushed and changed.I have now used it for 5 months with absolutely no problems,Starts at first turn of ignition in the morning even after overnight snow.

    Go ahead and grab this puppy.

    Gary
  • drex1drex1 Member Posts: 41
    Some problems with Starter Removal: Had my car on the lift, removed the starter (pretty simple two bolts), but I could not remove the old starter from the engine compartment of my 4WD 4Runner (3.4L) automatic. There are too many metal tubes in the way. What is the trick to getting the starter out of the engine compartment? It almost appears that I must drop the transmission drain pan!
  • jacobjacob Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 4runner, 3.4l engine and when it is extremely cold outside there seems to be a "ticking" noise coming from the driver's side of the engine. Most noticeable sitting at a stoplight. The noise isn't always there, it comes and goes but only when it is way below freezing outside. Service guys said this normal. Anyone have any ideas? Also it is an auto transmission, does everyone drive in the city with overdrive on or off?
  • 89toy89toy Member Posts: 5
    PLEASE, PLEASE GIVE ME INFO IF YOU KNOW OF SIMILAR PROBLEM.

    Have 89 4R with v-6, 5spd. Great body. Compression is 165psi and hot idle oil pressure is 30psi.

    THIS IS MY SORRY TALE:

     

    NO CHECK ENGINE OR CODES FROM ECU.

    Started to bog at low rpm. Replaced fuel pump; cold start injector, diaphram are ok. Replaced ALL SIX fuel injectors (They were cracked and leaking), plugs, plug wires, dist cap, rotor.

     

    Is now burning rich; runs good when cold, then black smoke out tailpipe when it warms up and cylinders 5&6 periodically misfire. Plugs in 1-4 cyliners are black, but not oily.

     

    Have put $3,500 into it. Mechanic is going to check sensors and ecu with ohm meter. He seems in over his head. TELL ME WHAT TO DO!
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    I passed it up. I just couldn't get comfortable in the drivers seat of that thing. I got the Explorer I have now because I wanted more room, and wanted something comfortable. I'd probably get used to the seats in the 4Runner, and I love it's look and stance, but I've decided to go with a Pathfinder. They're a little cheaper, and I can get an '01 with the 240 horse engine and a 5 speed with about 65k miles on it for not much more than I would have been paying for the '99 4Runner. I'm still shopping though.
  • drex1drex1 Member Posts: 41
    I recently replaced the starter in my 4WD '99 4Runner. I spoke to a certified Toyota mechanic to confirm this procedure. This procedure is significantly easier on the 2WD models (more room). Note: The difficulty of this procedure is not detailed in most repair manuals:

     

    1. Remove 2 electrical connects to the starter.

    2. Removed 2 bolts that hold the starter (in a difficult spot thanks to the drive train and exhaust lines (very little throw or leverage available in the socket wrench, plus a universal joint and many extenders)

    3. Remove a bolt holding the Transmission Fluid filler tube, and then disconnect tube half way down.

    4. Remove Right Front Wheel (no kidding)

    5. Remove portion of right from wheel well.

    6. Remove two bolts holding three brake lines (move brake lines gently out of the way).

    7. Begin honing your skills as a contortionist to remove the starter through the wheel well.

    8. Reverse procedure to install new starter.

     

    The procedure works, it is just incredibly challenging to remove a simple starter. I wanted to provide this information for those about to attempt this on a 4WD 4Runner.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion too.

     

    Steve, Host
  • rwmrwm Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 4runner, when the outdoor temp is approx < 30 degrees i get a nauseating hiss coming out of what i believe to be a front dash speaker. This can last minutes (up to 15) until the car warms up. Radio is disabled when this happens, then resumes normal function when warmed up. Dealer doesnt know what the prob is - car warmed up by the time i get there. Any thoughts? Thanks for input. Car may need to spend the night at the dealer to demonstrate the problem.
  • gcmellogcmello Member Posts: 17
    I experienced the same noise in my 2003 4Runner back in November during very cold weather here in northern VA. The hissing is caused by the audio amplifier located behind the glove compartment. The service department knew all about it (maybe a TSB), ordered a new amp and replaced it under warranty. No problem since then.
  • rwmrwm Member Posts: 2
    GCMELLO,

     

    thanks for input. They acknowledged a tsb on that when brought to their attention.
  • awguthrieawguthrie Member Posts: 4
    My 1993 4Runner lost the water pump and then, more than likely, ate itself. Haven't torn it down yet, but was wondering:

    1. What damage can I expect to find?

    2. Is a crate/rebuild the best option?

    3. Can you swap the 3.4 or other engine?

    4. What is the "hot tip" in this situation?

    Thanks

    awguthrie
  • yomolsyomols Member Posts: 24
    I have an 03 4Runner with a V6 and experienced a problem that of course the dealer couldn't duplicate. On an incline, sometimes when I shift into park, the truck rolls backward.I've let it roll 3 or 4 feet and had to apply the brake to stop it. It's happened for two days, but not all the time. Anyone had a similar problem? Mileage is about 28,000. Thank you for any thoughts.
  • coranchercorancher Member Posts: 232
    yomols, I haven't experienced what you describe, and have had zero problems with the transmission.

     

    But what you describe is a serious thing, and certainly needs to be fixed. Short of waiting until it's frequent enough to have the dealer duplicate it, there are a couple of things you might do.

     

    First, check to see if the dash indicator light for the transmission shows any other gear than park when you're in park. You might try this repeatedly. Also, have you had any other looseness or sticky behavior with the shifter? Anything out of the ordinary. Finally, you might slide under the vehicle and look at the linkages (you can trace them back from the transmission part way) to see if there are any obvious problems such as debris, loose pins, damage from a rock or tire tread that got kicked up, etc.

     

    If this happens again I'd consider going to the dealer and insisting that they have a mechanic take a look underneath even if they can't duplicate the problem. You might want to threaten to file a NHTSA report or complaint.

     

    I can sympathize with a dealer who can't readily replicate the problem, since intermittent stuff is so frustrating for mechanics. But I think they should demonstrate that they take your concern very seriously, since this is such a significant hazard. It's easier to defend waiting to fix a cupholder that doesn't always retract or something like that.

     
  • alotawattsalotawatts Member Posts: 44
    I'll assume it will lock when the truck is positioned down hill ? I have never tested mine for rolling backwards (or forwards) because it's not safe and is not good for auto (or manual) transmissions. I ALWAYS set the E-Brake up hill - level - or down hill. This keeps the load off of the transmission gearing and prevents whats called torque lock on inclines and will keep your transmission gears healthy. Best practice Stop: set Ebrake put into Park. Start: Put into Drive release Ebrake

    My 2 bits (happy face here)
  • yomolsyomols Member Posts: 24
    Corancher, thanks for you thoughts. I have had no problems with the shifter and the dash indicator only shows P. I will get under the truck to look for anything odd. It' been 4 days since it last happened and I try to duplicate it daily but nothing. I'm starting to doubt myself but I know it slipped on two separate occasions two days in a row. I can't blame the mechanic either, if I can get it to slip again why should he? I'll just continue to drive it and if anything unusual shows up ,I'll go lean on the service mgr. Thanks again for your response.
  • yomolsyomols Member Posts: 24
    I use the Ebrake on a hill. The truck slipped in my driveway which has an incline. I just stopped for a second to run into the garage to get something and got lazy and threw it in park. I never thought to try it down hill. Good idea. Will try it tomorrow AM. Thanks again.
  • gleeglee Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 4Runner Limited with 140K. Check engine light came on and took it to Toyota for diagnosis. They had it for over 14 hours and could not pinpoint the problem. I had someone else look at it and just been told that I have two cracked heads. The V6 is the 5VZ. Am I just unlucky?

    glee
  • jacamarjacamar Member Posts: 1
    Greetings. My wife and I own a 1998 4Runner 6 cyl, 4WD. The truck has been great, 102K miles, only non-typical maintenance has been to replace alternator. (haven't replaced brakes) We're wondering if we need to replace the timing belt. According to the owners manual, it should be replaced at 90K, but only if driven under "special conditions", meaning low speed, towing, etc. Our local mechanic and the dealers say it should be replaced regardless. We do live in a cold climate (Wisconsin) if that makes a difference. Not sure what to believe. Please share thoughts. Thanks.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    There are some people on Edmunds who don't change their timing belt as recommended by the manufacturer, but wait a while.

     

    BUT, those people usually drive a car whose engine is a non-interference one, so if the timing belt breaks, they'll just be stranded by the side of the road (assuming they can safely coast to the shoulder). The engine shouldn't be any worse for wear. No bent valve stems or other major carnage anyway.

     

    The safe and prudent thing is to go by the manufacturer's recommendation.

     

    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide says that the belt should be replaced at 120,000 miles.

     

    Steve, Host
  • junglejimjunglejim Member Posts: 18
    It is probably the fuel infectors. Modern fuel infectors work magnetically (thus the "ticking" noise).
  • olineoline Member Posts: 3
    Hi!

     

    I am in the middle of a big mess and desperately seeking advice! The engine for my 1995 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD V6 110.000 miles recently overheated. I was able to drive it briefly and then had to push it to the nearby mechanic shop.

     

    The next day, the mechanic informed me that the radiator which blew its cap needed to be replaced as well as the fan and thermostat which were working but due for replacememnt. However, upon performing the above repairs the mechanic (Mechanic #2) discovered that the previous mechanic (Mechanic #1) who had replaced the radiator in 6/04 had put too much water in the coolant which froze solid (I'm in Boston- brrrr!). According to mechanic #2 this subsequently damaged the 5th of my 6 cylinders. The radiator, thermostat and fan were replaced so that the car would run while I awaited a formal estimate for engine repair.

     

    Upon calling the mechanic #1 back with further details of the damage, he agreed to replace the radiator as he had told me in a previous conversation but insisted that my car would be smoking excessively (which it's not) if there were cylinder damage and that the radiator issue would not cause cylinder damage. Mechanic #1 insisted that he was not responsible for the engine damage. I then had mechanic #2 call mechanic #1. According to mechanic #2, mechanic #1 was rude and insisted that he was not responsible. Mechanic #1 was gone when I tried to call him back.

     

    In the interim, I don't feel safe driving my old car which is obviously not worth repairing and have located a used 2001 4Runner which I would like to purchase this weekend because it's a good deal.

     

    Questions to you guys: Which mechanic is right? Could the frozen coolant/ radiator issue cause engine damage? How do I pursue this matter if mechanic #1 is indeed at fault? What measures do I need to take to prove this before getting rid of the old car?

     

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I'm obviously stressed and tight on time given that I found exactly what I want in the "new" used 2001 4Runner.

     

    Thanks and have a great weekend!
  • rjordanrjordan Member Posts: 30
    Steve,

          I suspect mechanic #1 is at fault for not testing the coolant concentration to begin with. But the area of fault for the damage to the #5 cylinder is a bit cloudy as you did drive the truck, knowing it was overheated and you should have stopped immediantly and had a service vehicle tow you. I don't follow some peoples ideas about basic service work such as proper coolant levels and strength because they paid someone else to do it and feel they do not have to check it themselves. If you are going to drive, you should know how to check your oil, coolant, transmission fluid and starting battery water levels. Proving a mechanic is negligent is difficult as you would have to prove you that no one else or you serviced the vehicle after mechanic #1 serviced it.
  • olineoline Member Posts: 3
    Hi!

     

    Thanks to your advice, I plan to have my oil, coolant, transmission fluid and starting battery water levels and a second compression test to confirm damage tomorrow. What specifically do I need to ask for? Can this be done at any gas station with a mechanic on site?

     

    The only work that had been done on my car since then was an oil change and alternator replacement a few months ago but would this have any impact on the radiator? I know, but how do I prove it!?

     

    Sadly as usual, hindsight is 20/20 because mechanic #1 had previously reimbursed me for the alternator which was deemed faulty by Toyota when they replaced it a few months ago. In addition to the 5/04 radiator, mechanic #2 had replaced the alternator in 6/04. Unfortunately, the problems didn't start until later and now seem to have snowballed.

     

    I need to drive my old 4Runner 60 miles for trade in this week for the new 2001 4Runner. I'm psyched because its a beauty but it will only mean more financial debt. Please be specific about the above suggestions and any others which I should take to drive my old 4Runner. Details would be helpful given that I am a car ignoramus. Again, thanks a lot and wish me luck.

     

    Have a great day!
  • rjordanrjordan Member Posts: 30
    When you have differant mechanics performing work on your vehicle, its hard to narrow down the blame for problems as they develop. The people involved here, including yourself will all be finger pointing. Your problem started when the vehicle overheated and you did not know that you should have stopped the truck immediantly, which you did not and call for assistance. I am afraid that your lack of knowledge of basic vehicle maintenance and operation will be a factor if you decide to pursue legal means against mechanic #1.

    You need to get some advise from someone who can inspect your vehicle and then you make a determination if you think you have legal recource.
  • 4runnerfury4runnerfury Member Posts: 1
    I see some questions about a certain "tapping" or ticking noise from the 3.0 v-6. I own the 93 sr5 4runner.Lately it has gotten noticibly louder..like when i pull up to macdonalds along a wall i can hear a ticking but not deep like a knock.I can't really pinpoint where it all comes from..the injectors have always ticked..but now i have come to the conclusion that i need to switch to synthetic oil..i think lubrication has alot to do with it. I also have had a 3 inch body lift and the little rubber mat that is in there around the steering shaft has been moved away and ever since then i have heard every little tick of the the engine running. it bothers me to hear any ticks, it has over 141,000 and still really puts out the power with 5/88 gears and 33's it tows and runs great except for those stupid ticks that drive me crazy.
  • maxpower!maxpower! Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I'm going to be buying my first vehicle in the next few months and right now I'm looking at 4Runners from around 1994. Basically, I'm hoping for a vehicle that will last me about 3-5 years. Can anyone tell me if there are any common/major issues with this vehicle or my expectations of it?

     

    Thanks
  • terryl25terryl25 Member Posts: 1
    buying a 98 limited 2wd, 147,000 no leaks engine quiet. has vibration at 60 .looked at the u joints and front has thrown grease above it has fitting for lube. is it bad once thrown grease or could it be unbalanced tires. some grease on the rear u joint also. any ideas why

    no vibration at lower speeds. also drivng lights won't come on switch lights up, is there a fuse and where, will check bulbs asap. mainly need help with the drive shaft issue.help
  • alotawattsalotawatts Member Posts: 44
    Not sure about 94's but do a Google search for ALLDATA recalls for 1994 4Runner and other searches on 4Runner Headgasket problems.
  • alotawattsalotawatts Member Posts: 44
    I have a 2001 factory manual and the illustration that identifys where the block coolant drain plug is ....well... sucks. The radiator plug is obvious. Can someone point me in the general direction/side of block for the plug ?

    Thanks
  • alotawattsalotawatts Member Posts: 44
    If Park or Reverse won't lock the wheels get it checked !!!!!!!!!!!!!! pawl/gear problem
  • rjordanrjordan Member Posts: 30
    I have the 2004 repair manual for 4Runner and the diagram is probally not much differant. There are 3 drain plugs shown. You know about the first one. My diagram for the v6 shows that there is one which appears at the top of the engine, near or under the air intake. the other is located on the drivers side somewhere under or near the oil filter and either above or below the exhaust manifold. On the v8 engine, the plug location is near or under the air intake and the other plug is also on the drivers side somewhere near or under the cylinder head. I think the ones on top are meant for venting to allow the lower plug to drain efficiently. You may find it helpful to use a mirror to look for the side plug. I don't know if there were any big changes in engine design for the model year 2001 to 2004. So its possible that your plugs may be located differently.
  • yogi9644yogi9644 Member Posts: 1
    When the temperature is 4 degrees F or lower my two yellow VSC lights come on on my '03 4Runner V6 Sport and my VSC is actually disabled (flooring it on my snow covered driveway quickly tells me this). If I turn the truck off and turn it right back on the lights go off and the VSC works. I have made appts. to have this checked out at the dealership, but they have to have the appts. a week in advance and the weather never cooperates (it's always too warm). It's not a huge deal, but I'd rather get it fixed while it's still under warranty and before it turns into something worse. Any ideas about what could be causing this? On those same cold days my rear wiper doesn't work correctly. It's delayed in working by about 30 seconds and makes a humming noise. You can also respond to mainer@pivot.net too. Thanks
  • allen42allen42 Member Posts: 12
    I have a problem that I can't seem to solve. At about 2m rpm's and about 48 mph in 3rd or 4th gear, when given the gas to go around someone, it seems like the cylinders or something makes a pounding sound in the engine.I use 89-91 octane gas. need to know how to set timing different. Was told that the timing is set by the computer. Need to override the computer and fix problem. Please help.
  • glengreenglengreen Member Posts: 1
    The vent cable on my '97 SR5 has become unattached in the defrost position, disallowing me to change the flow of air to the vents or to the floor.

    How big of a job is this to fix?

    Is this a Dealer only job?

    Thanks in advance for any and all help on this.
  • thehoovthehoov Member Posts: 1
    I just had this problem last week with the VSC lights. The dealership told me my catalytic converter needed replaced. In the mean time I did some checking myself, it turns out the gas cap solution that I had found on somebody's post may have fixed my problem. Does anybody with this problem fuel up with the engine running? Just wondering if that may have lead to the error.
    It seems like this VSC error code can have several possible causes.
  • simbahsimbah Member Posts: 9
    I had this msg in general 4runner forum - thought I 'd try the audience here as well:
    My Problem:
    I had my valet key (grey) stolen from my 03 runner. I am looking for some advise as to next steps to take. I was told by dealer that I can have my master keys re-programmed to prevent valet key from starting car. However I believe that the valet key can still open the driver side door and trunk. Would I need to replace the lockset and thus have new keys mades?

    As I can't get into the dealer for a few days..I was told that the valet key only allows truck to be driven for limited distance..is this true? As I have no garage I am a bit worried, and hate to have to sleep with one eye on the vehicle at night.
    Any advise/experienced info on this would be greatly appreciated.
  • aglionaglion Member Posts: 1
    I've got the same problem on my 2004 6cyl 4Runner.
    However, my tires are the originals, not substitutes. So far they have replaced the receiving computer and one of the tire-pressure sensors. I'm on my way back to the dealer tomorrow for the fourth time on this problem, with rapidly diminishing patience. Did your repair--i.e., replacement of receiving computer and all five tire-pressure sensors--continue to work? That stupid little flashing indicator light drives me nuts. Otherwise I love this vehicle.
  • allen42allen42 Member Posts: 12
    Can a toyota service dept. change things in the on board computer such as the timing?.
  • p53mustangp53mustang Member Posts: 16
    Simbah,

    Had the same problem before the best solution I did (i think ). Went to a locksmith and what they had done is they just reshaped all cylinder bolts (ignition,doors and trunks) and then they reshaped my existing keys to match. It's about a days work and it cost me $275. Forget about taking it to the dealer cause before I did the locksmith I asked around dealerships they want anywhere from $600 to $ 700.
    I was paranoid at first cause their charge was cheap so I lied and told them I lost valet and other keys except the one in the car. I originally lost valet key but kept spare. After it was all done my spare key wouldn't work, so I went back two weeks later and told them I found it and they reshaped that same key to match my car. It's been 3 months now and not a single problem.
    Hope this helps.
  • tangmantangman Member Posts: 127
    Some 4-Runner writeup say the 2004 has a water repellent windshield made of hydrophilic glass. I am having my windshield replaced and want to be certain that it is the water repellent version. My Toyota dealer's parts department never heard of such a thing. But, my broken windshield acts as if it has rainex on it and I never put it on.

    Does anyone know if all 2004 4-Runners have water repellent glass. How do I specific it, so my insurance company will replace it if it differs from the typical glass most glass shops use.

    You input to this would be very beneificial. Thanks in advance.

    Tangman

    Wayne
  • tomh12tomh12 Member Posts: 240
    I have an '04 sport V8 that I bought new in May of 04. Wonderful vehicle except for a couple of minor comfort features and an engine noise that began with the beginning of cold weather. First, I have the dealership change oil and filter every 3750 miles. I now have 39,000 miles. I have used Mobil 1, 05W30 since 7500 miles. The noise I am concerned about only happens on cold start after several hours of not running. It sounds just like a 2001 GMC 6.0L I owned...basically sounds like pistons hammering until the engine warms up, but only does it when the vehicle is in gear (under load) and NOT when sitting at idle, out of gear. This noise is very loud and anyone near the street when you are accelerating will notice it. It is definitely engine sourced, as the noise is same speed as engine, even if sitting still, in gear, with foot on brake while revving engine.
    Anyone else have this problem and how have you been able to resolve it?
    Your help is appreciated.
    Tomh12
  • tomh12tomh12 Member Posts: 240
    I would like to know if anyone else with the 4.7L V8 is experiencing a cold engine "knock" or piston clatter for the first few minutes of driving. My dealership acts like they never heard of it and can not duplicate it until I leave it over night. I will do that soon, but would like to know if this is unique to my vehicle, or something others are experiencing.
    I have searched this topic and several others including t4r.org and have not seen reference to this problem.
    If my 4.7L V8 is unique with this problem, I will push hard for warranty coverage extension or repair. If this is a common problem, it may well be like the GM 6.0L and just be a nuisance, with no long term consequences for engine life.

    Please, anyone with knowledge about this engine noise, give me some replys.
    Thank you,
    Tom
  • neumie2000neumie2000 Member Posts: 133
    I too have the 4.7 in my '04 SR5. When it is cold, 30 degrees or colder, the engine does make a slight knock at startup, just as the engine revs up for the first time. It goes away quickly, within 3-5 seconds. I have not noticed any such knock or ping when driving however, as it only occurs immediately after start-up when the engine is at a high idle. I'd be interested to hear what the dealerships take is on this. By the way, I only have 5000 miles on mine...so I would also be interested to know whether the noise got worse on yours as the mileage on the vehicle increased.
    Good luck!
  • tomh12tomh12 Member Posts: 240
    Thanks, Neumie2000 for the reply. I believe what you are experiencing is a slight "tick" that my engine also has immediately on start up. Like yours, on my engine that noise goes away in seconds. I am not concerned about that noise.
    My concern is a noise that is LOUD and can best be described as sounding like deisel engine clatter, but seems to be confined to one cylinder, if that is the source. It is not evident when the vehicle is in park or neutral whether revved, or at idle. If you allow the engine to run for several minutes...long enough for the heater to become warm....it will not make the noise when put in gear.
    I am open to the possibility that it could be tranny or transfer case related, as it only happens when you put the vehicle in gear, BUT it does not require movement of the vehicle and is in time with engine speed whether moving in forward or reverse, or sitting still. Once you start driving, the noise is loud while accelerating, then unnoticeable if coasting. The noise will stop completely within 1 mile of driving.
    This started with the arrival of cool nights when the temperature would get down in the 40's. I probably had about 25,000 miles by then. Even now, with 39,000 miles, when I travel in the South and temperature over night stays warm, there is no noise.
    Thanks again for your reply.
    I would still like feedback from anyone who has this problem or has an idea of what may be causing it.
    Tom
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