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Comments
when you climbed the hill you ran out of gas and the truck stall.
remember carbs have floats...
then you pumped the hell out the gas pedal trying to get it started.
which fouled the plugs..
do a proper tune up and chek the carb for damage..
Thank You
Seems to be heat related as it only happens in winter when heat is turned up. Not summer when AC is on.
Everything,Speedometer,Tach,fuel remain frozen at the reading when it went out and comes back in a few minutes or as long as a couple of hours. Aggrivating on a long trip when you need to know your speed through towns.
u cam also remove the gauge cluster and c/s the main connector plug ,that is where the wireharness connects to the gauge..
good luck
this is a website more familar with the 4x4 's.
good luck
Anybody out there have a solution to this problem?
Again I don't know nothing about this car, I did change the exhaust, but don't know what else to check for...distributer..rotor...sparkplugs. I just needed a car to go to work and don't want to spend to much on this truck...
Any idea's on what it might be..
Thanks in advance..
A few hours later, the truck started immediately, but the alternator light is still on. The battery is fairly new, and has water in it.
Any idea what the problem is?
This problem is driving me nuts. Please help someone!
How do I change the three belts out? There must be some steps that will make the process go more smoothly. I am not a mechanic.
wayvic
Thanks...
But now I kind got the problem down....when I stomp on the gas, in idle, the engine pulses, revs then idles and revs then idles and the whole time the gas is to the floor.
But when I gradually lay down the gas pedal, she will rev all the way smooth with no pulsing..is that still the secondary coil..
thanks in advance again...
Hope this helps!
Going to try to change the distributor cap and wires tomorrow. If I have enough funds, get new spark plugs.
Would this be a timing issue???
Thanks
alwayshunting
We have had about 1 1/2 months of straight rain. Its been sunny now for about 1 1/2 weeks now. When I started up the truck, I noticed that the RPM gauge was starting to work and the truck now works fine. I took her on the freeway and I can floor her down with no problems in all gears with no problem.
My question is, was something wet that is now dry and making my RPM gauge work and the engine run good???
I was thinking of covering the connectors to the coils because on my truck, its right next to the hood openings. I was just going to try and cover them up with electrical tape. Would that do, or should I check something else like a sensor or something??
thanks guys...
sounds like a loose or damn aged wire..
talk to tomas hayden
read the trouble codes...
but off hand i 'll say temperture sending unit is faulty..
So the problem is that when I'm driving (and only then) and I floor the gas pedal, it seems like the engine floods and cuts out... there is a specific spot just before full throttle that it happens. Also if I'm moving at least about 50 mph and I let off the gas pedall to decelerate, it sounds like I'm popping popcorn under the hood (misfires?). When I am parked though and I rev up really high the engine doesn't cut at all but when I back off I get the same popcorn sorta sound.
I'm thinking maybe a gasket is leaking? although I can't pinpoint one. I already replaced the fuel filter so its not that. And I don't think it is the timing cause I unscrewed the distributer cap and turned it while reving the engine with no change.
The truck gets me around but at the expense of about 10-12mpg.
Anyone have any suggestions?
clean and service the float and maybe replace the spring that operates the float .
also check float to see if it is infact floating..
that carb is 20 years old.
if you can't find the problem maybe consider buying a aftermarket weber carb.
you will have to loosen the fuel line and pry a little but the side will come off...
My goal is keep this rig as daily driver. It is cheap to operate and insure.
I am dealing with age issues on the truck. The fuel pump went out; I replaced it. I need to replace all the coolant hoses. The brake system is on the list.
I have two questions:
Are there any other components similiar to the hoses I should just replace because of sheer age?
On the brake system, should I replace the master cylinder too? I am planning on replacing everything on the brakes (Ii.e.) the key component: wheel cylinders, caliphers for sure. Rotors and drum if I have too.
Thanks