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Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout

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Comments

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Under the Moss Magnuson Act, the dealer or manufacturer cannot deny warranty except on the part being replaced unless they can prove that damages requiring warranty services is directly attributable to that part. While the act protects the consumer against being denied warranty services it still doesn't help when the dealer denies you warranty service regardless of the part being changed.

    Despite advertising claims, Truck Trend had done a test using a K&N FIPK system. As K&N is an advertiser in their mag, the test results showed a 2 HP gain +- 2HP.

    One of the things that a lot of K&N owners talk about is the oil in the filter being transferred to the MAF. While I owned one this never happened. I guess depending on what you're looking for any of the systems you list will work. That is an increase in the intake suction noise with little gain if any in the HP and MPG.
  • 97se140k97se140k Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 SE. The headlights stopped working this morning(both sides). Went out, turned the knob and they did not come on. I removed any corrosion around the terminal, and still nothing. All other light systems are working( rear breaks, interior,dash, radio, rear turn signalsand runing lights) just the front headlights/turn/running are out. Anyone have suggestions or past experiene with this problem? Thanks for your help.
  • choochoojohnchoochoojohn Member Posts: 20
    Thanks for the info. I figured if you increase the air intake the computer is going to increase the fuel also, not wanting to run lean, so you may gain power but you're losing MPG. I'm not a hot rodder nor racer from traffic llights so I think I'll just pass on the cold air intake and put the money to better use.
  • reddevil4reddevil4 Member Posts: 17
    I read somewhere a couple of months ago that Nissan was going to discontinue making the Titans after 2010. So I was wondering does anybody know the future of the Frontier Pickups. I would think that Nissan would stay with the smaller pickup and the reason for dropping the Titan was Nissan trying to merge with Chrysler Dodge for the bigger size pickup and technology.
  • asaasa Member Posts: 359
    Perhaps a year ago it was announced that Nissan would co-produce a full size truck with Chrysler and it was widely expected that the Titan would then become a Dodge Ram clone. This wasn't a merger, but was a plan to save on production costs. Following Fiat's buyout of Chrysler, no update on this plan has been announced.

    I've read nothing that casts Frontier's future in doubt. Some dealer salespeople have been quoted with some whacky tales of Titan, Xterra or Frontier demise, but none of these have ever been supported by fact. It's clear that sales of these are in the doghouse, but I'd think that Nissan would want to maintain a practically-sized truck like Frontier in their line.
  • cttoazcttoaz Member Posts: 9
    I discovered my own answer on the way to changing my timing belt. Next to where the oil filter screws on and towards the front of the engine, their is an oil pressure sensor. I will use a 'T' fitting to add my gauge's sendor tube while maintaining the OEM sensor output.
  • restin84restin84 Member Posts: 2
    Got a thumping/clicking noise when the steering wheel is locked going in reverse. Any thoughts on what it may be? :confuse:
  • restin84restin84 Member Posts: 2
    Got a thumping/clicking noise when the steering wheel is locked going in reverse. Any thoughts on what it may be?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Thumping/clicking? I'd be more concerned that your car can move in reverse with the steering locked.
  • juumpmasterjuumpmaster Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 4WD, 6 cyl. Had the same problem, always thought it was coming from front, or sound being transmitted to the center or rear. Checked front end,
    drive shaft and everything else I could thing of. After taking it to several Mechanics, had all kinds of answers, rear end mostly. On many occasions I would
    go to a Mechanic and could not duplicate the noise. One last resort, I drained the rear end and replaced the fluid. Checked the book to might sure I was using the right type, think mine was a non slip differential. Low and behold never heard the noise after that. Now it could have been low to start with, or when I had work done on it and the drained the rear end, they may have replaced the fluids with the wrong type. Just like yours, only did it in the turning position and especially when backing up.
  • juumpmasterjuumpmaster Member Posts: 2
    Steering wheel locked, no mine was not in the locked position when I had the problem, but I was turning the wheel sharply, kinda thought this is what you meant.
  • 83nissan83nissan Member Posts: 1
    hi i have an 1983 nissan pickuptruck and i am new to nissans and my headlights don't work. i have tested all of them and they all work but they whon't work on the truck. all the other lights work(rear lights, signal lights, side markers, dash lights, interior light(which doesn't turn off). and i have a problem with the engine. it will run but when i quickly add the gas it bogs and dies, and it doesn't idle. the gas line is all rusted so i replaced it but it has a diffrent pump, the pump is from a suzuki samuri.
  • snowflake3snowflake3 Member Posts: 1
    Earlier this summer I was hit in the passenger side rear end of my truck. The insurance company decided to total it. I am wondering if anyone knows what other years of the hardbody have interchangeable under carriage parts, specifically the leaf springs, shocks, axle and housing. Thanks for your time.
  • fpina25fpina25 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 nissan pickup extended cab,
    when I remove the key from the ignition the chime stays on, I have to tap the ignition once or twice to get the chime to turn off. What could this be? I have checked the wiring and fuses, they are all good to go. stumped!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    bad ignition switch
  • chefdanchefdan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 nissan pickup 2x2 ,this past summer it started overheating. I checked the radiator and discovered a small hole. A friend of mine gave me some radiator stop leak and since we were at his house we just put water in it. now last month I realized that I forgot to put the antifreeze in and the water froze up. I removed the radiator and thawed it out and replaced. I went to flush out all the crud left in the motor and discovered that I have a manufactured hole without a plug. I found the plug and the hole is on the left side of the block under the aircleaner and carb. Does anyone have any bright ideas on replacing it with out removing the carb and stuff?
  • asaasa Member Posts: 359
    Is it a 'freeze plug' on the side of the engine block that you have found? These are engineered to pop so that ice in the cooling system doesn't crack the block. You can purchase a replacement, but you'll need to carefully and squarely drive it in with a hammer and driver and you'll need some room to do that.
  • spence35spence35 Member Posts: 4
    I just changed my timing chain in my 97 2.4liter se xcab 4x4. got it back together,now the oil light is on vales make noise,oil filter is bone dry. I bought a new pump,filled it with oil to prime it. installed it. still not pumping oil. I started pulling the pan to check the screen. am i on the right track. Yes i did get the chain changed with out pulling the oilpan,just had to loosen it. I was hoping for sugesstions.
  • cttoazcttoaz Member Posts: 9
    Not meaning to be sarcastic here at all, but are you sure you added sufficient oil to fill the sump fully after doing the job initially?

    I replaced the timing chain on my 96 with the same engine at beginning of the summer, and as long as the oil pump is correctly installed (all the feed holes line up to the block), the oil pump is flush to the block when installed (so that you know the oil pump/distributor drive shaft is properly meshing with the crankshaft gear and the shaft end keys are appropriately inserted into the oil pump & distributor ends ), and your distributor is spinning/timed correctly, there isn't much else here to look at. Installing the new oil pump eliminates the pump as a variable since both units act the same.

    I agree that not removing the oil pan should not be a problem - I did mine just to make sure everything was leak free when I was finished but there was no mechanical reason to need to do so. It definitely agree that it sounds like the proper next step is to remove the pan to make sure that excess silicone sealant didn't fall in the sump and is now clogging the screen. I found some crumbs in my pan when it was removed, but if I remember correctly, not near enough to cause it to stop the oil flowing.

    I think there might be a slight possibility of installing the oil pump backwards at 180 degrees or something, so look closely at its alignment (though I am not entirely sure you would be able to get all the bolts in correctly, and think it would likely spring a leak since the oil pressure would surely cause the gasket to fail).

    Good luck!
  • spence35spence35 Member Posts: 4
    heh,yea the dip stick says it has oil in it all the way,and the four empty courts of oil bottles tell me i should at least be getting some oil in my filter. I m pretty sure i cant get the pump in backwards because the long bolts go on top an 2 shorter ones on bottom every thing fits, the truck runs. i did as scary as it sounds let it run a few min hoping it would build pressure. no dice. I even took the valve cover of and started it for a minute. poured some oil on the cam and chain. expecting to get oil all over,didnt happen. :confuse:
  • spence35spence35 Member Posts: 4
    Okay anyone else, I still have no oil pressure,packed my oil pump with vasoline,that didnt work, used engine flush that didnt work. Not sure my pickup tube is clogged. I had the pan separated 4" and cleaned the broken pieces of the timing chain guide out. the screen is not dirty. besides i did not have this issue til i changed the timing chain. I have noticed in my search this seems to be a common thing puzzling people. I even went as far as to go install an actual pressure gauge. why else would i have no oil pressure. new filter new pump Primed engine flushed. I took the spark plugs out . cranked it over several time ,letting the starter cool each time before cranking again.
  • cookie49cookie49 Member Posts: 1
    hey man,,i have a 1991 with the same engine.mine seems to have one lifter that wants to fuss just sometimes.it seems to leek down at times and tick like crazy.most of the time it runs quiet.did yours do this before the lifter finally went out?my truck has 272,000 miles on it and it still runs good other than this lifter issue sometimes.i bought both rocker arm assemblies from a junkyard(got all 8 rockers with the lifter in them for 36 bucks)hopefully one out of the eight will be good for me..what do you think?
  • cttoazcttoaz Member Posts: 9
    I ran into the same issue that several other people have mentioned with the D2L trucks- KA24E 2.4L engine with 5-speed. The engine would not always start when I turned the key, but turning the key multiple times often worked after 5-6 tries, occasionally a bit more, sometimes less. This continued on for the better part of a year, until one day it stopped. I could always get the truck started by push-starting/rolling down hill so I could rule out the battery and alternator. No apparent fuse issues could be found in the fuse box either (left side of steering wheel at bottom of dash.

    Rule out the battery first by trying to jump-start your car or having the battery tested. If you can start the vehicle by jump starting, but then it dies shortly after the jumper cables are removed, there is a good chance it is the alternator. Running a voltmeter from a positive connection to ground should return greater than 13.0 Volts (14.0+ is ideal) when the motor is running.

    Assuming the battery (and alternator) can be ruled out, if you have the proper equipment, I would next try remote starting the engine via connecting the positive lead of the battery to the starter motor and solenoid, bypassing the ignition circuit altogether. This would allow you to test the starter without removing it. Removing the starter is possible from under the car and through the passenger-side wheel well (after removing the rubber shield), but it is a real PITA to remove & replace . I ended up pulling mine out to have it tested, but this wasn't my problem.

    The other two likely sources of problem are the clutch inhibitor relay and the clutch inhibitor switch. Both of these items are used to prevent the engine from being started while the clutch is not pushed in.

    The clutch inhibitor relay is also referred to as the starter relay and clutch relay, depending upon where you are reading. Prior to 1995 most Nissan trucks (and apparently a wide variety of nissan cars) used an extra-wide blue relay with two plugs below. These were often located on the passenger-side inner fender wall, just behind the battery. The 95-97 trucks do not have these extra-wide relays installed, but instead use instead the more traditional square elongated-cube relays for the clutch inhibitor/starter relay. On my 8/96 truck, this was located in a five relay compartment on the passenger inner fender wall, running f-r towards the base of the hood. The clutch inhibitor relay was clearly labels under a black plastic cap, and the relay itself was the second one towards the front - blue with nissan part #: 25230-9B900. A Nissan direct replacement relay with same part number cost $27.50 at the local Nissan dealer. Replacing this relay solved my starting problem, and the engine starts much more quickly now than it ever has in the 1.5 years I have owned the vehicle. It should be possible to test the relay outside of the vehicle or bypass the relay "switch" to see if the engine now starts, but my attempts at this were unsuccessful do to an unrelated issue, so I defer you to other internet sources for a test procedure on how to do this.

    The Clutch inhibitor switch is a part the Nissan parts counter person said is among the most likely causes of no starting with these trucks, so I went ahead and picked one of these switches up at the same time. My replacement switch - nissan part #: 25325-D400E - cost me $23.65. The most difficult part of this job for me was getting the electrical connector unplugged from the back. Access is quite limited, and the plastic connector which clicks in is particularly stiff and was impossible to do with my bare hands. I used a mini pliers with curved tongs; squeezing the connector allowed the connector to be pushed back off of the switch. It should be easy to bypass the switch for testing purposes by disconnecting the plug and using a wire or a screwdriver to short the wires while trying to start the engine.

    To remove the switch from its bracket you will need a 14mm wrench - I used a very short stubby one, and still had difficulty finding enough room to maneuver and loosen/tighten the bolt. Be careful when you reinstall the new switch so that it is full engaged, but not taking the full force of your foot every time the clutch pedal is engaged. I adjusted mine by holding the pedal fully in, and then turning the switch into its appropriate placement - It turned relatively easy as I screwed it stopped turning - at this point I backed it off half a turn, and then tightened the 14mm bolt.

    I hope this write-up saves someone else from repeating the time I spent, particularly the 95-97 truck owners that are told they have the extra-wide relay installed in their truck. Most after-market part stores will try to sell you one of these even though they don't exist in the later years...
  • colohuntercolohunter Member Posts: 17
    Its the relay switch Passenger side of engine compartment behind battery - set of 5 of them

    they always go bad.

    Switch them out for new one and the problem will be gone
  • bearspickup91bearspickup91 Member Posts: 1
    ive got a 94 pickup ext im looking to pull serious power from it is it possible to replace the stock sohc head with a dohc head from a 240sx ka24de
  • bob329bob329 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Nissan Pickup and it is not charging. I brought the alternator to Advanced Autoparts and it tested good. I checked the grounding wire of the alternator and it has continuity to the body. I removed the positive wire from the alternator and hooked the battery back up and the battery voltage is there. So, the fusible link is good. I had the truck running for a few minutes and checked the battery voltage and it is the same as it was before starting the truck. The alternator belt is new and tight. The 2 prong connector is clean and is all of the way in. ????
  • cttoazcttoaz Member Posts: 9
    You haven't mentioned anything about your battery, but I would look very closely at it next. Have it tested if you haven't done that already. It may show a decent voltage, but just not have the capacity to hold the amps that you need for starting.
  • charlee2charlee2 Member Posts: 3
    HI: yes there is a chain tensioner that push on the chain when is runing, take the valve
    cover off and you will see it on the one side.
    to test it make the engine turn but dont let it run. Check on the tensioner to see if is
    pushing, if not you will have to replace it .
    or you will damage something else.
  • dakotasbrokedakotasbroke Member Posts: 2
    my 86 pickup is doing the same thing...have you figured this out yet? im am lost and dont have a clue what i could be
  • elmajeelmaje Member Posts: 2
    edited March 2010
    The greatest truck ever. I bought it with 33k in 97 and today I think it has close to 200k since the odometer stop working about 2 yrs ago. The only thing I have done to it was to change the alternator (once), brakes, belts, tie rods and oil every 3,000 miles and that is it. Like I said, the odometer is not working but the speedometer is so does anyone knows how to fix it? Also, my cruise control stop working and I would like to get that fixed too so I would really appreciate any help I can get to get this wonderful truck back to 100% working condition. 99% is better than anything out there but I want 100% bragging rights!
  • twister7556twister7556 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1986 nissan pickup (Z24 ) with 304,000 miles that has blown a head gasket twice ( between 3rd and 4th cilynders both times ). Ive heard this is a problem with this engine. Does anyone know if there is a fix.The head and block both apear to be in good shape. Some one told me to use copper coat on the new gasket?
  • colohuntercolohunter Member Posts: 17
    I have to concur. I bought one in 98 with 92K. Drove it until it had 320. Bought another one - Exact same year and model, with 152K. The guy never changed his timing belt and he broke it. I bought it and fixed it (had to change cylinder heads).

    Fantastic for hunting here in colorado and as a work truck.

    My only complaint - the mileage. How can I improve it? Anybody got any ideas?????

    I have changed oil in transfer case to lighter viscosity and optimized the timing. Keep the tires inflated. What else can I do?

    Spark plug wires?
    Best plugs?
  • fpina25fpina25 Member Posts: 2
    I also have a similar problem. I too have a 95 nissan kingcab. Had it since 94 got it with 7 miles. My odometer works, but my speedometer works on and off. I go off of my rpm's to gage my speed. I have gone through the manual to see if there is a loose cable But didnt find one, so I called the dealer. They told me its electronic. They said I would have order the part which would also come with a new odometer but they needed the old one to confirm mileage. I know it was not much help, I will keep Searching. 99 % is still pretty good.
  • ign0redign0red Member Posts: 3
    edited March 2010
    Absolutely love my truck. It's got 141K miles on it which is half of what a friend of mine had on his which was a year older until it got smashed to bits by a dump truck (his truck was whole reason i wanted to get mine). Wondering about a couple do-it-myself things.

    1) IAC Valve Cleaning - Seen online a tutorial on how to get some electric parts cleaner, remove the IAC valve and clean it myself. Wondering if I should be worried about any seals between the valve and the rest of the truck. (This repair is because I get a rough idle when coming to a stop. The truck almost stalls and then comes back. I've done a spray cleaner that I've had to spray while manually gunning the engine which has worked a couple times but never for too long. Was told this was a viable alternative option to purchasing a new one)

    2) Shock Absorbers - Both front and back are rusted out and shot. I suspect it's the cause of a few of my woes. Are they replaceable by myself or should I be worried about a spring shooting me in the head and onto the garage wall? I have access to a lift so no worries about getting crushed under a failed jack.

    3) Belts - How difficult is it to replace the belts? It looks like there is hardly any room to work when it comes to these.

    Also - Occasionally after it's been going for a bit i'll get a clicking sound until I let it sit for a minute. Can't tell if it's exhaust related or not, already had the exhaust replaced but I think stuff may be loose with all the lack-of-shock bouncing around.

    -Sincerely
    Not Interested in spending oodles at the Mechanic.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    edited March 2010
    -IAC is recommended to be changed because it's an inexpensive part and concern is that damage to the electronics when using a chemical cleaner. Personally, I've cleaned quite a few with no problems.

    -Changing the shocks are a no brainer especially if using a lift. I'm assuming whoever's lift you're using will be available for consultation. ;)

    -Belts will take awhile but not hard to do.

    -The clicking you're hearing is the exhaust system cooling and contracting.
  • ign0redign0red Member Posts: 3
    Thanks a ton! Going to pick up some electric part cleaner tonight and give it a whack. At the moment i'm saving up for an engagement ring so i'm trying to save every last cent. I've heard about the front and rear shocks possibly being different types to install. Was told the front ones I should do very carefully. Going to consult my girl's uncle (the one with the lift) about it and perhaps go about changing them this weekend. Will post with results.
  • bplowbplow Member Posts: 2
    I have a 88 SEV6 3L automatic pickup (136K miles) that has been running fine. recent maintenance over the past 2 years includes new spark plugs and timing belt.

    usually when I start (even when cold), the starter and the engine fire up without hesitation.

    just yesterday and since then, the starter motor is slow, the engine finally starts and it sounds like I am dealing with a dying battery.

    I replaced the battery today and it does the exact same thing.

    any thoughts?

    thanks!
  • ign0redign0red Member Posts: 3
    Sounds like it's your starter that's dying. I've had to replace mine twice. I don't know if that is from being robbed at the mechanic the first time with a refurbished part but all of those symptoms literally just happened last weekend to me. I thought it was the battery or the connectors but when I had the battery checked they said it was fine. Then truck died. Replaced starter again and BAM, instantly back on the road. Only real pain the butt is the location of the starter. I don't know but i'm guessing since your truck is D21 that it is located on the bottom right of the engine. Only way I could get to it is from under. Very tight space. I suggest looking up the repair cost before going shopping.

    Good Luck
  • bplowbplow Member Posts: 2
    Thanks much - I feared that, but needed some experienced analysis. I will head to the shop tomorrow.
  • jholtzmanjholtzman Member Posts: 1
    My truck, w/ 207k on it, starting overheating so I replaced the t-stat. Still overheating so I replaced the radiator. Still overheating! The pattern is this: From a cold start, the engine heats up slowly and then overheats. It runs very hot for a few minutes then suddenly the temp drops to normal. It will run at normal temp until the engine is cold again and the pattern repeats itself. Upper rad hose is cold when the engine is running hot. Coolant level seems to be fine during all of this. Does anybody have any clue as to what may be causing this?
  • cttoazcttoaz Member Posts: 9
    What happens when you turn the heater on - does it blow heat and act completely normal? Is the cooling system pressurizing correctly, no coolant leaks have appeared anywhere, and coolant does not seem to disappear (i.e. - the level drops without evidence of a leak)? Does the behavior change at all on the highway vs. at idle or in stop-and-go traffic?

    Is the water pump doing its job to the best of your knowledge - the belt is not slipping, the fan clutch seems to work with medium resistance, etc.

    If everything seems fine there, you might try changing out the temperature gauge sensor - I had a Honda Civic that overheated once and the coolant temperature sensor went bad in a similar way. It was great at first, and then once it got up to operating temperature would rise to the top of the gauge, and then dip back down occasionally. It won't cost much, and will eliminate that as a possible culprit/false-positive.

    Everything else about the vehicle seems to function okay? Brakes not dragging, transmission shifts normally (as an automatic), no unusual noises?

    Please let us know if you solve it.
  • colohuntercolohunter Member Posts: 17
    I suspect your water pump. The V-belt pully may no longer be tight against the timing belt. The off and on nature of it tells me this. No other explaination that I can see - how does your heater work during all of this? In consistent performance of the heater during these episodes would confirm my theory.
  • colohuntercolohunter Member Posts: 17
    The other author may be on to something when talking about the sensor itself. My tachometer jumps around sometimes so a faulty sensor could be it. If it's over heating do you find a bunch of liquid in your overflow tank? When you open the hood does it seem really hot????
  • sandra09sandra09 Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    I bought a 1989 Nissan 4 x 4 six months ago (Work truck) and was very happy with it, until after work one day, I started it up, drove a few yards and it started sputtering & quit running. I noticed that gasoline was dripping from underneath the engine. A friend of mine took off the air cleaner cover and told me to turn it over a few times. Gas shot straight up out of the carb & a lot more puddled on the ground.
    I had it towed to an auto repair shop and the guy there said he was 90% sure the problem was the fuel pressure regulator. I was told that the gas had flooded the cylinders and probably ruined the rings and so forth. He said that even after ordering the regulator, new plugs, points, distributor, etc., etc., etc., that it still might not run. (Due to loss of compression & that they still aren't sure what was causing the problem.) The original quote to fix everything was $863, and now he is advising me to cut my losses & have it towed by a salvage lot. (I owe $187 for the diagnostic & the truck sits in their parking lot.) Advice?
  • penistenpenisten Member Posts: 6
    I'm on a long journey in my good old Nissan pick up.

    It has started "cutting out" or "bogging down" when I press the accelerator down too far. Down to the cutting out part, it runs fine. I can press the accelerator down far enough to run at 70 miles per hour...which is plenty for me, since I try to keep the little beast at about 63 miles per hour anyway.

    The cutting out clears up when I raise the pedal.

    Does anyone have an idea of what might be the problem?
  • cttoazcttoaz Member Posts: 9
    You might try replacing the fuel filter.
  • penistenpenisten Member Posts: 6
    Thanks "ctoaz" I hope I can find it. Will try to get on over to Montana before I stop to work on it. (I'm in Olympia, Wa. now)
  • timbltimbl Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1986 Nissan 720S. There is a strange electrical problem that came up last night. I left my headlights on yesterday morning for about an hour and then realized it and turned them off. The battery didn't drain and it started up fine in the evening when I drove home from work. On the drive home the battery light comes on and when I pull up to a stoplight and come to a complete stop there is this weird like buzzing sound coming from the right side of the cab. It buzzes for a second then stops. Then this morning on my way to work the same thing is happening, except another problem comes up. When I put the car in neutral (it's an automatic) the car idles really high and kind of revs up like i'm pushing the accelerator down but I am not. The battery light almost goes completely off when I'm stopped and the harder I push on the accelerator the brighter the light gets.I'm thinking that it might be the fusible link on the battery. Any suggestions?
  • gbabcock69gbabcock69 Member Posts: 8
    I would suspect that when you left your lights on the battery drained down low enough that when you restarted the vehicles Alternator was worked hard enough to perhaps destroy the brushes within.

    Check to see that the Alternator is charging. An easy test for this is to watch the headlights, go from idle (About 800rpm) and up to about 1500-2000rpm. When the engine revs up higher, the lights should go slightly brighter.

    The Alternator is probably not charging enough to maintain high enough voltage to operate the onboard computer system and ignitiion systems.

    Regards, Gary\
  • timbltimbl Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Gary, I replaced the alternator about 3 months ago. If it is the alternator d, do you think that I will have to completely replace the alternator or is this something that can be repaired? Thanks again!
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