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Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout

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Comments

  • garysnissanpugarysnissanpu Member Posts: 1
    It's been raining alot lately and I notice while driving, when I brake, my truck seems to skid instead of slow down & stop. It has ABS but it doesn't seem to work like ABS should. Anyone got any ideas?
  • cttoazcttoaz Member Posts: 9
    Try re-bleeding the entire brake system, including at the abs solenoid which is located underneath and slightly behind the passenger seat (I have a standard cab, and I believe it is right at the beginning of the bed - not sure exactly where to look on an extended cab). The service manual specifies a particular sequence to follow - you might call a dealer service dept to find out what is recommended.
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    I need to replace the rear brake shoes on my nissan truck. 1986 with 2.4 engine 2 wheel drive. What shoes have you used with great success?? Comments anyone?? :shades:
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    raybestos
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    Thanks for the reply. Could you be a little more specific. Are these semi-metallic, ceramic or other material. Did they last a long time and have good stopping power?? Were they quiet??? Did you get them at your local auto parts store or did you order them off the net??? If so where did you get them?? Thanks for your reply. Anyone else have a suggestion for brake shoes??? :shades: :shades:
  • 101stvet101stvet Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Titan that has been a nightmare with the front and rear breaks. In defense of Nissan, I have 197,000 mile and have only paid for one brake job. I put on drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic brakes and wow, what a difference. I have about 40,000 mile on them and I could not be any happier. I purchased off ebay, 4 rotors and shoes for $250.00. They came out of Chicago. The pads are Evolution brand. NO break dust, NO issues.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Now I have to try and remember as I haven't owned that hardbody for some years. I've used Raybestos for over 20 years with no problems. Well I did have one on a '02 Yukon where the counter guy at Checker's gave me the wrong set.

    I usually order it online to be picked up at a local store. Since O'Reilly's bought out Checkers I've been ordering online with them.

    Come to think about it even the cheapest of shoes would work ok since these are rear drums we are talking about. Most of the braking power comes from the front.
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    Thanks, I'll do some research on Raybestos and see what's available. These are the original shoes as the truck now has 788?? miles on it. I took the drums off and cleaned them up so that's one thing out of the way. 25+ years so I'm grateful they have lasted this long but they are getting very thin. ;);)
  • 1991nissan1991nissan Member Posts: 4
    Hello,

    I was driving my 91 Nissan p/u, parked it and turned it off. turned the key to wind up the windows and the car was literally dead. After about 20 minutes all power came back on and I was able to drive it home no problem. After turning off the engine again the same thing happened.

    When I turn the key there is nothing. No dash lights, no fuel pump noise etc. When I open the door the dome light doesn't come on. When I close the door, the dash clock comes on, but goes off when I open the door. The funny thing is the headlights work and are full strength. The battery is less than one year old.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Try checking your battery connections.
  • 1991nissan1991nissan Member Posts: 4
    Battery connections are tight, henc the headlights still work.
  • colohuntercolohunter Member Posts: 17
    Help!!! My dome light fuse (also includes radio and clock) keeps blowing - took dash board partly apart and tried to trace - couldn't find anything. Does anybody have a similar experience or a good idea on spot under the dash where wires consistently get rubbed bare and start causing a hard short - I tried putting a in a 25 amp fuse and it blew that instantly. Help!!! One guy suggested a relay switch but I can't fine one that works on this circuit. Another guy suggested I need to replace the entire fuse panel..... Sounds pretty unlikely.....
  • rolf153rolf153 Member Posts: 1
    rear wheel drive, 4 cylinder automatic - the main hub bolts on the front bearings are coming loose, requiring bearings to be repacked. The front tires are balding on the inside as a result. When I repacked the bearings, I noticed the main hub bolts were already loose. Only days after repacking the bearings, they are loose again. ANY IDEAS? alignment?
  • filmorobfilmorob Member Posts: 3
    edited January 2012
    Water temp & gas gauge quit working at the same time. Any ideas?
  • babbs3babbs3 Member Posts: 50
    After becoming disappointed with Ford and their quality I am considering a Nissan Frontier. Years ago I looked at one and was surprised at how bare bones it was (but not the price). Please give me honest feedback on good or bad on this truck. Also where is it mfg.?
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Member Posts: 134
    Ok, I bought a 2011 Nissan Frontier 6 cyl SV (midline) Crew Cab with a preferred equipment group and a utility equipment group. It also had side step rails . I bought new from a Nissan dealer, no problem with selection.

    I am assuming you know that if you are looking for a mid size pickup, the domestics have pretty much thrown in the towel. Both the Ranger and Dakota have been discontinued, the Chevy Colorado is ancient and it's upcoming replacement looks the Chavy Equinox, in other words, a girlie truck.

    I drove a 2011 Tacoma Crew Cab and was very impressed with its ride & drive, but they are expensive and low on selection, colors ,etc. Keep in mind I was looking last August , so Toyota inventories were really down due to the earthquake in Japan.

    After driving the Tacoma, that woke me up to driving the Frontier , so I took home a Frontier for an overnight evaluation. I ended up buying the Frontier, the $3500 rebate on the 2011's , the good trade in allowance, and the really good dealership personnel sealed the deal. They were willing to deal .

    The Nissan Frontier has been assembled in Smyrna , Tennessee since the 1980's. The Nissan Titan is also assembled there, indeed , the Frontier shares many parts with the Titan, including the fully boxed frame , axle and brake assemblies.

    I am too long here, so I will shorten up Pros & Cons:

    Pros:

    1. A real working, no nonsense truck......but civilized enough to be the 2nd car....

    2. A torquey, quiet 6 cylinder that is composed at all times. The 5 SP auto delivers smooth shifts, whether lightly loaded or hauling a trailer. There is an O/D lockout switch for towing. A very quiet drivetrain .

    3. Nimble handling, corners very well, a good ride ! I am not kidding about this. Excellent brakes, speed sensitive rack and pinion steering has a nice feel at all speeds.

    4. Excellent seats and driving position. Nice steering wheel with audio controls, cruise control well placed on the wheel. Bluetooth controls on the wheel.

    5. Flexible interior in the crew cab. The rear seat is 60/40, both sides flip up and stay to reveal 2 storage compartments with cargo netting on top. There is some storage behind the seat back for flat items like jumper cables , etc. The storage compartments are removable if desired for transporting something really heavy in the back. The passenger front seat folds down flat to make a "work desk" for the driver.

    Cons:

    1. Gas mileage is about the same as a full size 6 cylinder truck. I am getting about 19 mpg in a mix of city/highway driving. I have gotten about 21 mpg on the highway at posted legal speeds. The reason? This Frontier weighs about 4,200 lbs, close to a full size weight. I drive smoothly and anticipate stops, etc. A hot rodder would get less. It uses regular gas.

    2. No trip computer on the midline SV model. I figure out my gas mileage religiously , but I just think the trip computer should be included at the midline price point. You have to step up to a top line trim , and the price goes up by at least $2000 (a guess, maybe more). I guess you could rephrase this by stating the Frontier has inflexible option packages.

    3. The turning radius is not tight enough. I know this might be an advantage if you are backing up a trailer, but in a tight parking area, I have been forced to back up and turn again more than once. I now anticipate these situations.

    2. The interior is a little stark, but hey, this a truck. I now think this is a good thing, as my son is in Boy Scouts and we go camping monthly. The interior is easy to clean .

    Sorry for being long winded, I will just say this: The Tacoma wins in rear seat comfort and interior appointments, but for a real truck personality, the Nissan Frontier shines. It does nothing poorly, and is actually fun to drive. And the entry price is lower.

    Finally, it is garage able easily and easier to park it. The garage issue was why I passes on a full size truck. I have to believe this Frontier is more fun to drive than a full size truck, but it is big enough to get 5 people inside without squeezing .
  • babbs3babbs3 Member Posts: 50
    Thank you Steelydan for the honest review on the Frontier. I knew about the demise of all the small trucks (no Rangers any more in N.A. after this year too) but the mpg did not impress me . I am an old gal but I too like to watch my driving habits (no jack rabbit starts, slow down for lights etc.). Due to problems with the crazy 6sp. auto that Ford is now using I need to know how the auto. trans. is in the Frontier? The horrible asian 6 sp. auto is not what I want (have had a 2010 and a 2011 and they both do not perform correctly). Ford will never admit any mistakes for this tranny. I have owned 2 Nissans in the past and I LOVED both autos. BTW...the 'girlie remark was a bit sexist. I like a vehicle that performs well and runs good including trucks and SUVs. Thank again,all info was helpful.
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Member Posts: 134
    the 5 spd auto in the Frontier is fine, actually more than fine.........it shifts extremely well...........
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    This being my first Nissan post, I would like to start by saying hello to all. We bought a 2011 Crew Cab SV with the Premium Utillity Package. The plan was to have 2 vehicles, the Frontier and our 2007 Honda. After visiting the dealership and a long test drive, my wife decided to trade the Honda in. Now our only vehicle is the Frontier.
    Steelydan's review is right on, although I would like to see a locking gas cap and a seperate switch to control the dash lights. Now the trip odometer reset button has 2 functions, push to reset the odometer and rotate to set dash lights bright or dim.
    We recently returned from a 1000 mile trip where we used 22.1 gallons for the first 487 miles or 22mpg. This was at posted limits using cruise where possible. City driving is 15mpg on a good week and 14 on a bad week.
    The Frontier handles well, is comfortable and has a smaller gas tank than Ford. My wife agreeing to trade in that 30 plus mpg sedan for a pickup, well, I never saw that coming and we are glad we bought it.
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Member Posts: 134
    corkscrew, you are right about both suggestions.......my post was long enough !

    Actually, while we are nitpicking here, the whole dash lighting could be a little bit brighter.......I find the orange lighting to be adequate, but not really bright...the gauges themselves are very informative and easy to read...

    I agree also on the gas tank......330-350 miles is about the max range you can expect.
  • babbs3babbs3 Member Posts: 50
    Thanks again steelydan about the tranny info. Do you know who is making the trans. for the Frontier? The funny thing about the 6sp. auto is on two back to back cars the transmission would "search" for a gear and than flare the rpms to almost a red line amount. I thought the idea was to get better mpg. but you just can't if the car is revving up so high. I just may test drive the Frontier but it is good to know that yours' is shifting properly. Again thanks.
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Member Posts: 134
    I don't know, I will say that the present 4.0L 5 speed combo for the Frontier was introduced way back in 2005, so any bugs were worked out long ago. It has a defeatable OD on the shifter, you would disable the OD when you are towing, but otherwise, I leave it on all the time. It allows the tranny to "lock up" at a low speed ( as low as 25 mph) so that it is more fuel efficient ( like a manual transmission) . I am assuming Nissan makes their own transmissions, this same transmission shows up in the Pathfinder and Exterra in addition to the Frontier.

    Sorry about your present Ford auto transmission troubles, but , while you may not like something else about the Nissan Frontier, the tranny won't be one of them. I stand behind that statement.

    babbs3, don't just take my word , on this very Edmunds site, just look up "Nissan Frontier" test drive/reviews........................read it for yourself ! The transmission is not a problem in the Frontier, period.

    I also read reviews in the following sites: USA Today autos , MSN Autos, and a couple of Nissan owners sites: ClubFrontier.org and NissanFrontier.org.....

    Take care, babbs......
  • babbs3babbs3 Member Posts: 50
    To Steelydan.....Wonderful news bout the trans. As I mentioned earlier I had 2 Nissans back to back and they were a joy to have. I had 6 years of complete trouble free driving. Never back to the dealer once with a complaint. Too bad I have so much time left on my current lease or I would be tearing the roads up getting to a Nissan dealer. I have been driving for over 40 years and these last two Fords(2010,2011) are trying my last nerve. I have had 22 cars and except for a 1984 Plymouth (piece of crap) I have never had such a problem with any car before. I will visit the forums for the Frontier. Thanks for being so helpful!
  • 01aurora101aurora1 Member Posts: 8
    I recently bought a used 2010 Frontier SE, with a 4 cylinder. It had only 3600 miles when I bought it. I have noticed that the oil level is dropping by about 1/2 qt. per 500 miles. The manual said this is expected during the break- in period. I now have 7600mi. on it and still using oil. I have not noticed any leaks from the heads or oil pan. How long should the break in period last? I have also noticed that when the AC clutch kicks in, there is a noticeable amount of noise increase. Any info would be a great help.
  • cttoazcttoaz Member Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    For what its worth, my 1996 4-cyl pick-up makes a lot of noise when the A/C compressor kicks in. To the point that trying to listen to music at a stop light without turning up the volume was frustrating. Adding additional sound deadening to the cab helped out quite a bit, but even still, my much earlier version is a pretty loud vehicle overall.

    Regarding the oil consumption, the 1 qt every 1k miles still falls inside of the parameters of normal even today and is not completely unheard of (though I suspect increasingly rare). This is likely because the only sure fix is a complete tear-down and rebuild of the engine, and the cost of adding oil would be far less than the cost of repairing the engine while the vehicle is still under warranty. If you are using pure synthetic oil, it is possible that the engine still hasn't properly broken in since the piston rings still haven't seated correctly. You might ask a Nissan dealer for info on this. Good luck!
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Member Posts: 134
    I imagine that 4 cylinder is working pretty hard to move a 4,000 lb truck around, so the oil consumption, while disappointing, is not too far out of line. Make sure you check the oil the same way every time, when the engine is cold, before you start it. Checking the oil when you fill up the gas tank will give you a false reading because it takes awhile for the oil to drain back into the crankcase after you shut if off.

    I know the 4 cylinder gets somewhat better gas mileage, but your noise issue is probably related to the 4 cylinder working too hard, trying to move a 4,000 lb truck around and running the A/C at the same time. But hey, it's a truck , right ?
  • sheffiisheffii Member Posts: 1
    Every time I run my a/c I can hear a low humming noise coming from behind the glove box. The a/c still works and blows cold air strong. The humming gets louder when moving the fan switch up to point where its almost deafening on 4. Any info or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  • views1views1 Member Posts: 1
    To jsan1 thanks for coming up with the armrest could you please send or direct me to the brochure on the armrest. Thanks for your time and help .
    views1. berlin.us@verizon.net
  • bonzo43bonzo43 Member Posts: 1
    Alternator has tested good.
    Battery has tested good.
    All fuses are intact.
    Belt is on tight.
    Charges fine when idle but will not continue to charge when driven.
    Any Suggestions
  • 1991nissan1991nissan Member Posts: 4
    Just want to share this tip:

    I went to the Nissan dealer to replace some burnt out instrument cluster bulbs and they are listed at $20 each. This place also sells Volvo parts and the guy said wait a sec, and pulled some Volvo bulbs. They look exactly the same so I bought four and they fit perfectly. The price, $4 per bulb. Couldn't thank the guy enough for saving me $60!
  • colohuntercolohunter Member Posts: 17
    Help - My dashboard clock went out along with the radio and the dome lights - apparently on the same circuit. Plugged in a few new fuses and they blow instantly - wheather or not the motor is running. Has anyone seen this? Any adeas on where to look for the short?

    I've spent hours inside the dash. I don't want to have to disassemble large wire clusters... But if I must - was hoping somebody else had seen this ??????
  • 1991nissan1991nissan Member Posts: 4
    edited January 2013
    Well I have the same problem, but mine happened after my car radio was stolen and wires were cut. I think the clock and dome light are somehow connected to the radio wiring harness. I wasn't planning on getting a new radio but haven't been able to trace the cut wires.

    Blowing fuses without the motor running is very odd. Is this a new radio install?
  • 8ball28ball2 Member Posts: 9
    Check the switches in your doors. They turn on the dome light when your door opens. They are normally closed switches (power on) until the door closes and breaks the connection. The Positive wire could be grounding out inside your door frame.
  • vikingcovevikingcove Member Posts: 3
    My 1996 Nissan 2.4 liter pickup developed a loud groaning/screeching (not hissing) noise that seems to be coming from low in the back of the intake. It vanishes briefly when I step on the gas pedal. It's there parked or moving. It's not noticeable at highway speed, but the truck is a bit noisy. My hearing is good. Odometer is about 236,000.
    I've not been able to pinpoint it, even using mechanic's stethoscope. Not related to belts -- still there with belts removed.
    A well regarded local shop spent two days & many man-hours on it, removing & cleaning throttle body & replacing gasket, cleaning PCV, cleaning EGR, pinching & disconnecting vacuum lines, replacing oil filter with Bosch filter, and maybe some other things. No improvement.
    I have no driveability issues. No codes are set. Short term fuel trim is good (< +/- 5%). I have Bluetooth OBD II unit & Torque Pro program on phone that I can use.
    I'd unnecessarily replaced the PCV 10k miles ago due to fuel trim issue -- that turned out to be shorted wire from O2 sensor. Distributor replaced @ 6k miles ago, due to failing coil.
    I'm wondering about the swirl plates, but I think they're closer to the head than where I'm hearing the sound.
    I'll try to record the sound & post it.
    Anyone have hints on where to concentrate my efforts?
    This is my 1st post. Let me know if I've omitted something.
  • vikingcovevikingcove Member Posts: 3
    I just phoned the shop, and they said they did a smoke test for vacuum leaks & didn't find any.
  • colohuntercolohunter Member Posts: 17
    Wow - pretty thorough. Bottom line I think you wrote that it has had no impact on your performance. It could be a bearing in that area starting to go bad but It's really dificult to tell. You may have to wait until it starts to impact your performance.

    An IR cam on the engine after it's been running for a few minutes might tell if there's a lot of frinction on a bad bearing in the area. keep us posted - sounds vexing....
  • vikingcovevikingcove Member Posts: 3
    Solved:
    Spongy PCV hose that was sold to me by Napa 6,000 miles ago. I'd specifically requested PCV hose.
    En route to local auto parts store I found Long Term Fuel trim ~12%. Kurt & Robin at O'Reilly Auto Parts came out to my car to listen & poke around at idle. Plenty of brainstorming. Found noise would disappear when plugging line from air filter to valve cover. Figured PCV valve might be stuck wide open, & if so could cause excessive crankcase pressure or vacuum. When I accessed PCV valve (removed tire, splash shield, battery negative cable, oil filter) I found the very soft PCV hose. I replaced it with the old, very hard hose I'd removed 6k miles ago, then put stuff back together. When I cranked it to circulate oil into new filter, I could tell it was better. Next morning driving it noise was gone, Long Term Fuel trim went back to 0% (& Short Term Fuel Trim still cycling normally ~ +/- 0% - 5%.)
    I'd read every post in this forum, and lots, lots more. Nothing really seemed to hit the spot. Since finding the problem, I went back & read more about failed PCV hose. It's not uncommon, but I've still not read a description including my sound.
    Thank you for your help. I'll keep the IR camera idea in my quiver. Boy am I glad to be done with this.
    vikingcove
  • amanwhocaresamanwhocares Member Posts: 5
    Engine flutter/ slight miss. Started after replacing blown head gasket. Milled head. Changed timing guides and chain. Checked distributor cap. cleaned plugs. Changed fuel filter. idle and acceleration is fine but flutter occurs as though in background when backing off acceleration. 355.000 miles. Engine rebuilt at 200,000. Wondering if it is catalytic converter going out or fuel pump developing failure. Each never changed.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Hi all.

    I recently acquired my recently deceased grandfather's '99 Frontier. It's in good shape, but the service records are spotty at best.

    The good:

    Newish tires (2011 purchased) with good tread

    Oil changes recorded every 5,000-6,000 miles

    Truck saw light duty (light stop and go, 40-50mph roads)

    115,000 miles total, with pristine body/paint/wheels/lights/glass

    The bad:

    "Service Engine Soon" light indicates a bad knock sensor

    A/C squeals horrendously at anything much above idle engine speed (my granddad previously told me that the mechanic said it was not, in fact, a belt, but was the clutch in the compressor)

    Both license plate lights are out, and I've never changed these before

    I don't know what other major and minor service intervals should be taken into account with this truck. Any comments, thoughts, advice, or input is welcome. I drive this truck almost exclusively on the highway at about 70mph and am averaging 27mpg, which is on target for EPA, so I don't believe the engine is running poorly. If the A/C is off, it is quiet and smooth at idle and at speed.

    Thanks!

    TheGrad
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Member Posts: 134
    Hi Grad,

    Sorry about your Grandfather . I know he would be pleased to know that you are trying to get his former truck shipshape !

    My suggestions:

    1. License plate bulbs are easy to replace yourself. If you can acquire the owners manual for your Nissan (very doable), it will describe how to replace them. Bulbs available at any auto parts store. Take the old one with you .

    2. It's what you did not mention that bothers me a little . I have questions about the maintanence on your 99 Nissan.

    a) when was the radiator/coolant system flushed and refilled ? If you don't know, I would say at 115K, time to do it !

    b) your manual transmission has 80-90W gear oil in it, once again, if you don't know when the MT was ever serviced, do it.

    c) inspect all belts and hoses for wear, fraying, bulging hoses, etc. Put a cardboard box on the driveway under the engine overnight and see if you have any fluid leaks.

    d) I would refer to a mechanic for the knock sensor, at 115K, not surprising .

    e) Your AC compressor will need to be replaced, I would not try to "rebuild it" in any way. I agree that the clutch has probably seized, when you replace the AC compressor , replace the glazed over belt that runs the AC compressor.

    Sounds like your dear Grandfather did not abuse this truck, it just needs some TLC at almost 15 yrs, starting with vital fluids !

    Good luck,


    Brooks Davis
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Thanks for the input. I wasn't planning on purchasing it so soon, so right now, I'm driving it about once a week until I get financially ready to get some maintenance done on it. I know the best thing you can do for an older vehicle is drive it, and not let it sit and rot.

    I will definitely do the coolant and brake fluid. I've had to replace a master cylinder in my old Accord before, I don't want to on the Frontier.

    It doesn't have any leaks (I've checked that much).

    The odd part about the A/C is that it actually does blow nice and cold, but every time it cycles on, it makes the squealing noise if running in gear, at highway speed. At idle, it usually stays quiet. I know I'm on borrowed time with that one.

    Thankfully, my main vehicle is my Sonata I've had for four years (a 2009 model) that's in top shape, so for now it's my daily driver. :)

    Thanks for the input; keep it coming!
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  • ken_haywireken_haywire Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2013
    I have a 2000 Nissan frontier just bought it and the ac belt was missing....changed all belts but ac would not work. swapped relays and now it wont start even after switching back relays. any idea what I can do when I turn on switch get a beeping sound
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  • nabornabor Member Posts: 6
    Just purchased a 2013 King Cab SV, V6, auto trans, Super Black, 4x4. Traded in a Mercedes CLK350, finally figured out I'm not a luxury car guy. I love this truck. Only 850 miles so far, but it's so much more fun to drive than the car, and actually better technology. At highway speed the road noise coming from the rear of the truck is annoying however. I can't tell if it is coming from the suicide doors, or from the back panel of the king cab. Does anyone else experience this problem in their king cab?
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    My 1986 nissan pu is vibrating in the drivers and passengers seat after putting on new tires. The guys who installed the tires said the problem is my wheels are old-27 years old- and are no longer round. Anyone with an old nissan pickup have this problem??? They rebalanced them but they still vibrate very badly. The tires I had before were 205-70-14, the new michelins are 195-70-14. which is the factory recommended size. Could this be a suspension problem??? Any help is appreciated. :confuse: :sick:
  • alex0651alex0651 Member Posts: 1
    Hey I just bought a 2001 Nissan frontier 2wd v6 3.3 only getting 150 miles to a full tank I put a ODB-2 code. P0147. Not gettin any gas mileage 6 miles to a gallon anyone ever had this problem

    O
  • nelsonfnelsonf Member Posts: 104

    Currently own: 2017 BMW M4, 2011 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X Used to own: 2008 VW R32, 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 1987 BMW 325IS

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