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"No Start" Problems

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Your message is unclear. When you say "not kick over", do you mean the starter spins but the engine will not start, or do yo mean that you turn the key and nothing happens?
  • katrina28katrina28 Member Posts: 2
    Yes; the starter spins but the engine will not start.
  • gnfan87gnfan87 Member Posts: 1
    You had mentioned about starting problems. What kind of problems? Is the vehicle taking longer or is the starter dragging? If this is the case, most auto parts stores offer a free starter check and this may be to your benefit.
  • lipstix30lipstix30 Member Posts: 4
    My husband was driving our '02 Pontiac Aztec on the highway with no problems yesterday until the engine just died. Everything was working fine. He was doing 80mph, said the RPM's all-of-a-sudden shot up, the engine revved but didn't go any faster- just lost power altogether. He had to coast to the side of the highway. We thought it needed gas because the gas light was on. After we added a couple of gallons, we tried to start it but all we heard was a 'click' sound. The lights,radio & electronic windows were still working. We tried to jump it even though the battery is only a few months old but that didn't work. The repair man initially thought it was the starter, but after replacing it he said it still wouldn't start and thinks it's the 'crank'($2400) or needs a new engine ($5000) but he won't know until he tears it apart ($400)....Please Help!
  • doogle1961doogle1961 Member Posts: 4
    I have taken the starter off and tested it,turned out it is fine.Wired it back up when I got home and it spun once now nothing. That is what it was doing before I took it in to be tested.Can anyone help me? :confuse:
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    First thing to do is to check and see if you have power to the solenoid.
    Looking at the back of the starter, there are 2 large terminals and one small one.
    The positive cable connects to one of the large terminals and should have power to it all the time.
    The smaller wire should have power when the key is turned to start.

    So you need to test those 2 connections with a test light or volt meter and a second person comes in real handy.

    I know this goes without saying, but make sure the park brake is set and the vehicle is in park or neutral.

    Let us know what you find.
  • zachpzachp Member Posts: 1
    I unfortunatley own a 05 saturn ion2 that I have numerous problems with. I have been stranded to date 6 times due to the anti-theft device not allowing me, the owner, start my own car. The front shocks make noise like they have 100,000 miles on them, they only have 30,000. After driving a few miles and then stopping at a light or stop sign there is a knocking in the back sounding like someone is knocking on the trunk. Trying to get the keys out of the ignition is a fun time too as it will be problematic 2 times a week. Due to Saturns awesome warranty you must have it serviced at a Saturn dealer and not a GM dealer. So 85 miles later needless to say I havent been able to make the trip just yet due to full time college and full time employment. anyone else feel my pain. I thought Saturn was all a big picnic having family. This is the last time I fall for GM
  • jenelson3126jenelson3126 Member Posts: 3
    Long story here, first-time poster, so let me know if I don't provide enough info.

    Mom's car: '98 Mitsubishi Galant
    August 2007: alternator belt broke and was replaced
    October 2007: car has been squealing since new alternator belt was replaced, and the belt has even 'come off' twice. Hmm...
    October 2007: New alternator put in
    Nov 2007: New battery put in
    Nov 2007: mom complained of 'stinky' car but didn't do a good job of explaining the smell, so we thought her car might have been leaking oil.
    Nov 2007: battery blew while driving; thank God mom is still alive. more than a handful of fuses were blown as well.

    Turns out the voltage regulator wasn't regulating the amount of voltage that was being sent to the battery, and the 'stinky smell' was sulfuric acid as a result of water boiling out of the battery.

    Replaced the alternator (thank goodness for Autozone's lifetime warranty) since it failed Autozone's test. Replaced the battery. But now, the car won't start. The engine tries to start but never ignites. It just makes the typical rrruhrrruhrrruh noise but never ignites (had to tell dad to stop trying to start it since it would have run down the new battery). The headlights work, the interior lights work, but this horrible buzzing sound emanates inside the car.

    Obviously, when the batter blew it must have caused something within the wiring to short out.

    Has anyone had something similar happen or does anyone have any suggestions of what I might try?
    Thanks for the help in advance! :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I think you are going to have to find an electrical schematic for your vehicle and/or take it to someone who has one. With an electrical problem like that, you could have blown a number of fuses, and/or fried some relay's, or maybe even the computer.

    It's just going to be a painstaking process to go thru and test every electrical device to make sure everything is getting the power it is supposed to get....and then working the way it is supposed to work. This has the potential to be a very expensive problem.
  • jenelson3126jenelson3126 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Kiawah, I was afraid that the response would be something along those lines. And I was also afraid the word 'expensive' might come up. :) I'll check my local area for a good reputable mechanic. Based on what he says, it might be time for mom to get a new car. Thank you!!
    :cry:
  • jcrocksjcrocks Member Posts: 4
    My daughter has a 04 Accent which broke down with no previous warning. Drove it to work with no problems. Went to crank it and the starter spins, but it just wont kick over. They tried to boost it via cables, but nothing worked.Seems there is not enough juice to start the car , sounds slower then usual. Any suggestions? Please help A>S>A>P....the car is stuck in the parking lot of her job and subject to towing.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    why don't you call the dealership and have it towed in, this vehicle is under warranty...correct?
  • jcrocksjcrocks Member Posts: 4
    nope, not anymore. Bought it used and the warranty ran out recently.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Oh, I thought they all had 5 yr/60K B2B warranty, and 10 yr/100K powertrain. Did the 2004 have a shorter warranty?

    Have you had the battery/alternator checked for free at one of the local autopart chains (pepboys, autozone, etc)
  • jcrocksjcrocks Member Posts: 4
    I'm not sure what type of warranty she had, but the car has well over 60K miles. It was a rental before she bought it. No, we haven't had that done, i didn't know that one can do that. Thank you. Honestly i think it's something to do with her friend's uncle installing some type of stereo (he supposedly hooked it up to the battery). Could it be like an overload? Or could the man have messed it up during the installation? The car stalled the night before it died (just found this out). It started, stalled. started again and ran fine....
  • richardsonrichardson Member Posts: 92
    See if you can disconnect the stereo and see if it runs. My brother put some kind of security system on his accent and the car left him stranded. I pushed the car by hand and he popped the clutch and it ran fine. You have to be real careful about altering the electrical systems on modern cars. Good luck.
  • jcrocksjcrocks Member Posts: 4
    Awesome!! Sounds great. We'll have her try that. Thanks a million.... God bless
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    The Hyundai has a 10 year, 100,000 mile warranty.... for the ORIGINAL OWNER. After that the powertrain warranty also drops to 5 year, 50,000 miles.
  • garryhgarryh Member Posts: 2
    changed motor in 95 cavalier and put in a 88 pontaic grand Am and now there is no power to the injectors can this be tested by a test ligh but it shows there is no power in the main plug

    any sugguestions please I have used all the components from the 95 :mad:
  • june_clemonsjune_clemons Member Posts: 8
    Help me please someone!!!!!!!!! I have a 97 Dodge Neon. I have replaced the head gasket and drove it 8 weeks. On my home from work it boged down and then it did not start again. I have replaced the cam sensor, the coil pack, and the crank sensor not to mention the brain. Im not getting any fire to 1 and 4 . 2 and 3 are getting fire. When you take the cam sensor off all 4 cylanders get fire for a second and shuts right back down. I put all I have into this car now Im at my wits end Im a single mom with a very sick little girl I need advise very badly. The car is a 2.0 five speed with a single over head cam. HELP
  • jenelson3126jenelson3126 Member Posts: 3
    Here is what the ultimate cause was in case someone else encounters this same issue.

    When the battery blew, there were half a dozen fuses that were blown, in addition to a few relays. Once the relays and fuses were replaced, the engine started.

    The alternator belt slipping off repeatedly was caused by the harmonic balancer becoming worn. That too was replaced. The total cost of having the repairs done was $500 - cheaper than what I had expected.

    If you have any questions about the repairs, feel free to post a question. Thanks!
  • june_clemonsjune_clemons Member Posts: 8
    It was the pin inside of the cam. Also I have for sale a brain for a 97 dodge neon if there is anyone intested in it please let me know.
  • june_clemonsjune_clemons Member Posts: 8
    Oil problems. Dont know where its comeing from. I heard that 97 Dodge Neons have this problem does dodge have a recall on head gaskets if there isnt Chrysler needs to.
  • areneearenee Member Posts: 1
    Here's my issue, my car won't start I thought that it was the battery but my lights comes on and my window rolls down. It won't take a jump start, so what else could it be?

    arenee :confuse:
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Here's my issue, my car won't start I thought that it was the battery but my lights comes on and my window rolls down. It won't take a jump start, so what else could it be?
    Quite a few things come to mind.
    Neutral safety switch.
    Starter.
    Starter solenoid.
    Is there an alarm? Or Passive security system?
    Fuse.

    First, you need to determine that ALL fuses are good. Including the ones in the engine compartment.

    Determine what the battery voltage is and what it is when the key is turned to start.

    And if you can get access to it, there is a small wire on the starter solenoid. When the key is turned to start, it should have voltage. Does it? If it does, then the rest of the system is working and the starter solenoid may be the problem.
  • ejm3905ejm3905 Member Posts: 12
    Having starting problem IND rest lighi is on in the dash and I get all the lights but the car will not engage,new starter , battery and alternator,cars starts some times but after a while nothing ,the previous owner ran a by pass switch because he did not have the key with the chip,do I need to get the correct key and what information will I need to give the dealer to get the key?Helpppppppppppppppppppppppppppppp :(
  • ejm3905ejm3905 Member Posts: 12
    what is a IND rest light mean in the dash ? or what is it for ?
  • ejm3905ejm3905 Member Posts: 12
    It is the INFL REST Light that is blinking,what does that mean?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    airbag inflator module.

    INFL REST should come on while cranking, then once the engine has started flash 7 to 9 times, then go out. That is the normal operation.

    It will NOT prevent the engine from starting, so you have another problem.
  • pappy24319pappy24319 Member Posts: 11
    if your buick has the key with the chip on it, it is probably a broken wire on the ignition switch. I had the same problem with a 94 buick regal
  • versawinnerversawinner Member Posts: 3
    Just bought the car. 2008 Nissan Versa SL and drove it about 55 miles to stay with relatives for Christmas. In the morning, pointed the key fob at the car to unlock it and no lights flashed and the doors remained locked. Used the key to enter the car and found a dead battery. The lights had not been left on. I didn't know what to make of it. From what I could tell at the dealership, no one had ever driven the car except me because I found the steering wheel wrapped in celophane. For a fix, we jumped the car to get it started and now I've driven the 55 miles back home. Should I contact the dealer about this?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Yes, unless you aren't absoltuely certain that it wasn't a careless left something turned on type of mistake.
  • ejm3905ejm3905 Member Posts: 12
    I found out the previous owner changed the steering collum and by passed the pass key decoder module,he did not have the key with the chip ,I have gotten the key with the correct chip , if I remove what he did and reconnect the wires that he by passed ,will this solve the problem,does the lock cylinder have anything to do with the passkey decoder module,or will I have to change the lock ,the steering collum came out of a 1992 .
  • jamiehurleyjamiehurley Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 mercedes 190e and this thing will not start . I have changed the battery. I ahve cleaned the cables. I have cone everything that could possibly be wrong and still it gives me problems.

    The catch is it only does it when it feels like it. I jump it and it starts right away i drive it and turn it off and it starts up again it will do this a few times i can go 1 or 2 weeks and it will be fine then one morning I will go out to start it and it will be dead.

    Anyone have any thoughts because I am fresh out.
  • catmando1catmando1 Member Posts: 10
    We thought it initially went dead because of a power inverter left plugged into cig. lighter. I charged it and it acted OK--but has gone completely dead twice since then(I mean nothing whatsoever-no lights, beeps, nothing). I can only charge the battery when disconnected from the car--otherwise my charger says it's not making connection.(??? never had that before).
    Once charged, nothing appears to be left on in the car. Local Autozone tested charging system with their machine, said it checked out OK. My charger shows the battery to take a full charge (although it's very very low when the car has gone dead). I'm thinking the battery...but it seems like something may be shorting in the system. Any ideas or things to check?? THANK YOU!!!!
  • dlachdlach Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1997 cavilier that was in a slight front end crash , the car was running after the accedent . when the person shut it off now it will not start. it seems the fuel pump is not working.
  • roddoghdroddoghd Member Posts: 5
    OK FIRST CAR GAVE ME CODE FOR MISSFIRE #1CYLENDER CODE
    CLEARED THEN 2OR3 DAYS LATER CAR WAS RUNNING JITTERY ON
    THE FREEWAY AT CRUISING SPEED PUT INJECTOR CLEANER IN
    DROVE FOR THIRD OF TANK STARTED HAVING LACK OF POWER THEN
    POWER WOULD KICK BACK IN AND DRIVE FINE. I PARKED , THEN
    CAME BACK 2 DAYS LATER CAR FIRED ON 1 OR 2 CLENDERS THEN
    DIED CHECKED FOR CODES NO CODES CRANKES BUT WONT START.
    FUEL TO RAIL SPARK NEW CAP ROTOR PLUGS USED STARTING FLUID
    DOWN THROTTLE BODY NO START, NO CODES WOW I AM AT A LOSS
    IS IT THE ECM OR JUST THE CRANK SENSOR OR ONE OF THE OTHER
    SENSOR OR A COBO OF SENSORS BUT WHY IS THERE NNO CODES
    GIVEN
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well the codes in today's diagnostic systems don't identify the defective part, only the system or circuit that it's in. Misfire codes can still be a lot of things (as you learned) and it requires a "diagostic tree" approach whereby you eliminate each possibility by testing. This is not always available to the owner's level of equipment or skill. I could see a cam positioning sensor doing this if it were intermittent. Did you check pulse to the injectors with a noid light? If you indeed have fuel in the rail and spark you HAVE to start unless the injectors don't open or you've lost compression.

    also we don't know what kind of car this is or the trouble code you got.
  • truck2hi2cutruck2hi2cu Member Posts: 4
    my 92 xj cranks but wont start no power to coil,have changed cap/rotor ,ign switch crank switch and computer.if battery disconnected overnight and hooked next day vehicle will start and run for about30 seconds then die /novoltage again ......................help please
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This sounds like it has something to do with the security/alarm system? Isn't there a way to disable your alarm?
  • truck2hi2cutruck2hi2cu Member Posts: 4
    this is a regular cherokee/not a grand cherokee as far as i know the problem you are descibing for me is not for my jeep/but for a grand cherokee
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    So you don't have any kind of factory alarm system on the car?
  • truck2hi2cutruck2hi2cu Member Posts: 4
    according to the dealer it does not/thats why this is so difficult to diagnose.its my only ride and to have a 4wd in new york in the winter is no good in the garage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • roddoghdroddoghd Member Posts: 5
    well we have a forecast for snow in the great pacific northwest so i have decided to take my vehicle to the shop i have racked my brain on this one my car died on december 18 have been racking my brain since thank all or you for your advice tune in and i will tell you what was wrong with itthank you again
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Must be in the distributor then? the ignition module? I know the ignition module resides on the inner fender on the CJs but I don't know about the Cherokee. If you have intermittent spark that's a good thing to check. Is this a 6 cylinder motor?
  • truck2hi2cutruck2hi2cu Member Posts: 4
    yes its a 92 6cyl 4.0 4wd automatic regular cherokee/after it starts and runs for 30 seconds and quits it wont restart until it sits with battery disconnected for at least 6 hours................................thanx ////thinking about buying a differnt vehicle...no one seems to have an answer!
  • roddoghdroddoghd Member Posts: 5
    the shop called me they said they charged my battery and the darn thing started right up i practically tore my rig appart trying to fix it then thay said that it blew me away last time i checked battery it read 10.6volts i guess 1.4volts+ raeally adds upgreat to have my rig back :shades:
  • lucas8lucas8 Member Posts: 15
    Not sure if this is the right forum in which to post this question, but I replaced the positive terminal on my Kia with a universal one, but can't seem to fit it all the way down the post without hammering it down. Necessarily a bad idea to do so?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    yes, bad idea to hammer on the battery. You can break the post in from the case, or one of the plates inside, and the battery will be worthless.

    Go get another terminal that fits better.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not unless you want to buy a new battery AND the proper size terminal tomorrow.
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