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Mazda B Series

17810121315

Comments

  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Check with JC Whitney; they may have something that will work:


    http://www.jcwhitney.com/catsubpic.jhtml?CATID=43263&BQ=jcw2


    :)

  • dcrislerdcrisler Member Posts: 118
    Topic after I had already posted over in the ranger topic. I have a 94' B4000 Cabplus with 111k and it has been very trouble free until recently. I had to replace the waterpump, also did the serpintine belt and upper and lower radiator hoses... thought things were fine, and friday it started intermittantly running or 3 cylenders(just a guess but probably close). I have the distributorless ignition, so I am thinking computer or the coil unit. Anyone else seen this?

    Also I read on the ranger board about the driveshaft problems... seems to be much less mention on this topic... but I have had it since 30k miles. Also installed the K&N filtercharger kit (which is the name of the plain filter). 1st tank of gas went 40 miles further... I also replaced the 225-70r14s with 31x10 x15's... now I need to get the speedometer gear replaced....
  • blgrosblgros Member Posts: 6
    Just got my dad's 88 B2200 Cab Plus 5-speed truck about two weeks ago. So far, great. 93000 miles on it. He's done routine maintenance, but noting extreme.

    Noticed a couple things. First, it is burning through oil. My dad noticed it, and I've seen others on this group notice it. Haven't seen any fix posted though.
    Also, just noticed today that the brake light stays on after releasing the parking brake. Any suggestions?

    Getting about 20 mpg so far (mix of hwy and city). The squeaky clutch is annoying, but I can live with that.
  • lisbeylisbey Member Posts: 21
    So that K&N is doing some good. I was thinking of getting one. So you'd recommend that. My husband put one in his car about a year ago. What are your collective opinions about those engine oil additives like Slick 50? I've used them in car in the past. Since I'm not Superman, it's hard to tell if they do any good.
    Thanks Malt.
  • dcrislerdcrisler Member Posts: 118
    Bought a cheap code scanner and found my problem with a bad idle... Mass Airflow Sensor.
  • 1toobad1toobad Member Posts: 2
    My A/C won't work. The compressor does not seem to come on and the light on the a/c button does not come on either. I wonder if it is an electrical problem. All fuses intact.
    Help...anyone!!
  • jonestownjonestown Member Posts: 2
    If anyone is interested, I tested a 2001 B2300 SE 2.3L w/ 5spd auto reg cab last night, thinking it may work for just going to work and driving around town. My current truck is a 2000 Ranger 4.0 5spd auto 4x4.

    Even thought the new 2.3 has 140hp, the automatic seemed to shift back and forth quite a bit going up mild grade hills. Acceleration I would consider barely adequate. It was still a nice little truck, but just too underpowered especially in comparison to my current truck. The 5spd manual would be the absolute best choice with that engine.

    I like the 2.3L for the much better gas mileage, and would consider the 3.0L, but mileage with that is not necessarily better than my current 4.0L. I'll probably go back a try out one of the new dual sports anyway. They seem to have many more bells and whistles than the B2300's for about the same price.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I ended up with the 3.0 DS. For the money the 2.3L didn't make much sense not to mention supply was lacking for a while.

    BTW, checked the air pressure on my Firestones, all 4 were about 5psi below specs: 30 front, 35 rear. I had been averaging 19mpg, so I may break the 20s now.

    :)
  • tone2tonetone2tone Member Posts: 15
    My '97 B2300 Ext Cab SE has developed paint blisters on the cab and hood. One on the cab is especially bad. Has anyone else experienced similar problems and/or know of any remedies being offered by Mazda Corp?

    I have underground parking at work so my truck is not that exposed to the elements during the day. The truck is the dark green metallic in color.
  • bostontimbostontim Member Posts: 3
    Do those that change their own oil, what brand do you use and do you use 5-20w as instructed in the owners manual. Thanks
  • turkor1turkor1 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having problems with a collection of paintchips growing just in front of my rear wheel wells. It seems to be from the air flow directing "all things airborne" into that area. I do have a ARE cap on the back. Anyone else experiencing this???
  • sooner_chotsooner_chot Member Posts: 28
    I am considering purchasing a 2001 B3000 Dual Sport. I got the price down to $11,900 (w/ $2000 rebate. What do you think? I have read all the reviews for the DS on this board, and them seem very positive. Would love to get more input from others.

    I am debating on waiting it out past Labor Day to see if I can get an even better deal. I feel like this is a very good price. Any thoughts?

    Thanks!
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Sounds like a great deal! Are they still giving the free Power and Convenience packages along with the $2000 rebate? Sounds too good to be true. Anyway, I have the same truck and love it. Excellent bargain.

    :)
  • scootiscooti Member Posts: 13
    We are thinking of getting a B3000 DS, regular cab with auto. Can you please tell us about your truck, likes, dislikes, problems, if any, etc. Is yours an auto or 5 sp? How many miles so far? What type of mpg are you getting. Thanks for your time and any info you can provide.

    Bill
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I have a B3000 DS, standard cab with a 5spd. and really like it. I average about 19-20 per tank with my lead foot. I think I'm at about 3500mi, but I never check...sorry. Wish it got better mileage, but I guess it is a truck.

    No problems so far, other than the offer to replace the Firestones. That should come in handy when I burn through this set of rubbers. The truck seems pretty solid otherwise. It has hauled the dirt bikes to the desert several times without any problems and the power is fair.

    It's a comfy but stiff ride, just the way it should be. All around a great value, I think.

    :)
  • scootiscooti Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for the quick reply!

    Bill
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Meade
  • sooner_chotsooner_chot Member Posts: 28
    Where are you thinking of getting yours? Have you negotiated a deal yet? Im not sure if we should wait, or go ahead and take the plunge.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    you had a lemon...I'm on my second B-truck and not a single problem. If Mazda had better customer service, you'd be driving another truck.

    :)
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Fool me twice, shame on ME.

    Once bitten, twice shy.

    Nothing against Mazda ... just Ford. You know I am very happy with my Protege. Just never again a Ranger by any name.

    Meade
  • scootiscooti Member Posts: 13
    I live in NE Pa. and can get one at invoice, along with any rebates that may go along with it.
    I previously had a 1993 B-4000 4X4 Auto. It had a lot of electrical problems, but the engine and transmission were ok. We traded it in on a 97 ES Protege, auto in Dec 96. The Protege was a fabulous car, just sold it to my nephew, and my wife bought a 01 Protege ES, 5 speed that she absolutely adores. If we don't get a truck, we may just get another 01 Protege LX, 2 litre, auto.

    Bill
  • drewerm1drewerm1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 B3000 with extended cab and notice at higher speeds on the freeway, there is a rattle from the back window (it does have the sliding window option). Anyone else see this and done something to get rid of it.
    Also looking at some of the mileage you guys get, I am never under 20mpg in city driving and do a bit better on the open freeway.
  • gordo10gordo10 Member Posts: 3
    I just wanted to get my 2 cents worth in, regarding the "real" Mazda pickups. I've owned my '90 B2200 Club Cab( a 5 sp. plain jane) since it was new. It has 98K & I get a steady 26-29 mph in town. It has never burned oil or required anything other than regular maintance. It has hauled full loads on the Interstate & gotten over 30 mph. I have driven it on "roads" I wouldn't walk over & it just keeps ticking. I recently treated it to a set of factory chrome wheels. I hope that keeps it happy for another 98K!
  • mjbwrtrmjbwrtr Member Posts: 172
    hearing all this and seeing Edmunds and other sites saying "spotty build quality" and such, have made me waver on my choice of a new s-10...are they really that bad?
    let me explain. i am looking for a new truck...a stripped down one which i can get great mileage and be able to do work on my house with and transport hunting and fishing supplies. i also commute quite a ways and i tend to hang onto vehicles and drive them until they sputter and kill themselves in the driveway for fear of going yet another mile. :)
    so my choices are Ford Ranger/Mazda with the new 4 cylinder, and the s-10 with the 2.2.
    i want a manual tranny, air conditioning, cloth seats, and maybe a CD player. any suggestions or preferences? i could also use info regarding which engine is best.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    the new 2.3l doesn't have much of a history. It's new for 2001 in any vehicle, but it is a Mazda design, so it has that going for it. I don't follow the record of the GM 2.2, but I think I'd put my money on that new 2.3 Mazda. The numbers seem pretty good, including mileage, but I haven't driven one yet. I like the feel of my B3000 DS, but I expect that the B2300 has a softer feel.

    My $0.02

    :)
  • drewerm1drewerm1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 B3000 and take it into the dealer for the regular oil changes and maintenance needed. They always try and push some extras that they recommend at different intervals. This most always includes a fuel injection cleaning and at 24,000 miles they recommended a flush for the transmission and changing the fluid. The price tag for the latter was over $100 and almost floored me. I told them I would hold off on that. I see nothing in the manual as far as recommending these items. I would appreciate any feedback on what other drivers are doing and is this dealer just trying to milk customers for unnecessary work.
  • nebula30nebula30 Member Posts: 20
    I have a '99 3.0L.....at 23,500 miles.....fuel guage has just started showing more gas than is really in it....I know it could be 3-4 parts that causes this.....gonna have to go to dealership and let them ck it out....along with the spark knock problem....thanks Maltb for the memo on that....only other thing is that sometimes....the windshield wiper will come on 1 time...all by it's lonesome....I'd rather have a colon exam than to have to deal with the service department at the dealership again...took 4 trips just to get a latch on tailgate fixed....they ordered the "wrong" side...I think it was just a stall for time(too many cars to work on)...I'd rather them just tell me the truth if they can't get to it for a few days since I had to keep missing partial days of work to ferry it back and forth....well....any comments or suggestions would be appreciated...thanks
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    The wiper was a recall. Shame on you for not getting it fixed when Mazda sent you the letter...hehehe. The dealer should fix it no prob.

    The fuel guage: nothing unusual on these...let them play parts changer.

    :)
  • rstirbrstirb Member Posts: 2
    Greetings,
    Son and I just started the fresh rebuilt engine. It runs, but it runs rough. Suspect confusion in the vacuum hose routing. Yes, this is a '93 with a carb. Where can I get a vacuum hose routing schematic. There is none on the hood. Other than a sticky choke release (and burning oil) it ran nice and smooth when we took it apart.
    Also, what 's the correct ignition timing?
    Thanks a Lot, Rick & Adam
  • jhawk4everjhawk4ever Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 97 B2300 with 40,00 miles. I haven't even put 500 miles on it and had to replace the blender door for a cool 572.00 bucks. The dome lights were also "out' inside the cab, when I opened up the dome light cover, no light bulbs were in there. It seems that they previous owner had taken them out, because when I replaced them I found why he had taken them out.

    What happens is that when I open up the truck door and the dome lights turn on the warning chim just starts going, even if I don't have a key in the ignition or headlights on etc.., the chim just starts going. Drives me up the wall. I find myself getting in the truck as quickly as I can just so I don't have to hear the chimming. I just don't want to give up the ability to turn on the dome light at night otherwise I would take the light bulbs out again. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas? I don't want to spend anymore money, though!!

    Also does anyone know where I can get cheap parts, my driver's side mirror is broken.

    Thanks,

    Jon
  • rstirbrstirb Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    Anyone got the fancy version of this truck with a tachometer? I just installed a Sun Tach in my base model truck.
    What's the redline on a '93 2.2l engine?
    Thanks! Rick
  • dcrislerdcrisler Member Posts: 118
    Has anyone replaced the radio in this truck? Does it have an external amplifier? I replaced the radio and had to hook up the blue wire for the signal to turn on the amp... everything works except since I am using a 4x40 watt radio, there seems to be a non-engine related noise or humm at low vol levels. SinceI can't find the amp... I cannot bypass it to see if it clears up the noise.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I had to replace the radio in my '94 B2300 SE twice and finally installed my own Blaupunkt to stop the buzzing (and dying radios). My boss had a '94 B4000 LE and we had the same basic radio (Ford built by Panasonic, I think) but his had a few more bells and whistles on it. Both looked the same.

    Meade
  • boaz47boaz47 Member Posts: 2,747
    I just bought a 98 Mazda 2500 for a light duty work truck. I was drawn into the truck buying frenzy with all the advertising I saw on Television and in the papers. Dealing turned out to be a subjective thing and the Ford dealer was the only one that understood just what I was looking for. I won't go into the horror stories about trying to get my need into the sales mens heads but lets just say I set my sights at last on a Ranger. I knew the B-2500 was a re-badged Ranger so I decided that they had made me an offer I couldn't refuse. I call my insurance agent and waited to hear back from him on a quote. To my surprise it was less than it would have been for a Ranger equipped just the same. Why? I asked. And I was told that in this state they take into account how many accidents they have on a vehicle based on how many are bought. It is easier to buy trick stuff that says Ford on it than it is to find the same trick stuff that says Mazda so more young drivers buy Rangers than Mazdas. We all know younger drivers have more accidents. So Mazdas arent in as many accidents. The badge and tailgate seems to have saved me a few bucks a year. That may just be a method used in Southern California but it was a pleasant surprise to me.
  • the5carthe5car Member Posts: 26
    I owned an 89 B2200 long bed 5-speed...I put
    some 215,000 miles on that motor, although
    it did develop an oil burning problem at
    around 200k...the other thing it would do
    is have the throttle stick wide open...no
    amount of kicking the gas peddle would cure
    it....of course it would never duplicate this
    for the repair shop....anyway, the gas mileage
    started to drop, and since I put 600 miles
    a week my ride just with commuting, I needed
    something new.

    I checked into the Ford Ranger, knowing that
    it was now the equivalent of the Mazda, as
    well as an S-10. I couldn't afford anything
    more than a regular cab at that time, and I
    found that there was less legroom in the Ford,
    and it came with 14 inch wheels, so I went
    with the S-10 and it's 15 inch alloys. I can
    say without reservation that so far, this
    1997 S-10 has served me just as well, because
    I have 154,000 miles on it, with nothing more
    than routine maintenance being required. All
    I need right now is a new set of tires (the
    first set lastest 90k....)
  • steve2600steve2600 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, this is my first post to the board, and I have to say I didn't think there was one out there!!!

    Anyway, I bought a cruise control system from a salvage yard in California and am having problems trying to figure out the connection of a couple of wires. If any of you LE-5er's out there wouldn't mind giving me a hand in the location/connection of these I would greatly appreciate it. I have a digital camera and can send you pictures of the wires in question.

    Also, if any of you B2600 4X4er's are looking for a nice bull bar to go on the front (comes with winch capabilities) I know of a source.

    Thanks, and umm...zoom, zoom?

    Steve
  • rberghorstrberghorst Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering how other people own the 2001 mazda b4000 4x4 have had any of the same problems I have had. How many miles do usually get on a tank of fuel I get about 250 miles if run it until the check engine light turns on. Then when I fill it up the most I have gotten into the tank is 14.5 gallons. I have had at the dealer 3 times I guess there is a TSB on it but were unable to fix it. Called excessive reserve especially according to the sticker this truck is supposed to have a 19.5 gallon tank. And another thing is high idle after the vehicle has been shut off no matter if engine is warmed up or not. I have to drive at least 8 blocks and come to complete stop and it will idle down and drive normal for rest of the trip. If I do not do this it will idle erratic sometimes surge when I press in the clutch. It is almost like I am telling it where to idle, it is usually worse when the AC is on. Anyone else have a hard time dealing with your authorized Mazda Service Dealers they just do not seem to know anything about my truck when I bring it in. Just wondering if anyone else has similar problems. Other than that I have really been pleased with the truck.
  • kit1404kit1404 Member Posts: 124
    Haven't posted in this site in a long time, so be patient. I had a 1998 Ranger that was truly the only Ford truck I have ever had that was a seriously defective product. Not only were the bucket seats just about impossible to endure, the engine (4.0 with 5-speed auto) was low on power, and the little truck sure rode hard, granted I had ordered the extra pay-load package. Unfortunately, the engine went south at about 20,000 miles - the dealer chose to rebuild it with no success and I took my first bite on a Ford truck when I traded it in. Guess I got back in this discussion because wrist-pins are a problem on this particular engine - well-documented including this website, just wanted to alert folks again. Also, the Firestone Wilderness A/T tires that it had from the factory and that I traded it with were OK tires. I would guess they are equal to Generals and other lower-type brands I have had in the past. They sure weren't great tires like the AT/S Goodyears on the F-150 that replaced the Ranger - but, they were OK. And, by the way - the Explorer hung on to a decent amount of off-road capability even when most everyone else went independent suspension everywhere else. There are truly comprises to be had and the lawyers make you wonder sometimes where our really nice 4X4 trucks will go in the future.
  • nebula30nebula30 Member Posts: 20
    I have a 99' B3000...with auto trans and I get about 19-20 mpg around town.....the fuel guage acted up on me a while back...it was showing MORE fuel than was really in it....( I knew I only had half tank but guage went over to the full mark....then another time went way past the full mark)....since then it seems to be working properly....when my guage shows 1/4 or less of a tank, it still has between 4-6 gallons in it....I thought that was a BIG reserve as well....

    another problem that I haven't dealt with yet is the engine pinging.....but maltb sent me the TSB on it and I'm just about to go to the dealership to have them try to fix that problem....I had the cust serv rep say that the mechanic didn't detect a pinging the first time I had taken it in for that problem(around 13,000...now got 25500)....only premium fuel keeps the pinging away....costs too much to keep paying for that...it took 5 trips to dealership serv dept. JUST to get a tailgate latch replaced...serv dept is a MAJOR pain to deal with.....I love my truck though and no other problems so far......

    I have one Q? for anyone who might know. I bought my truck in Dec. of 1999...it's a 99'....had 1200 miles on it....Mazda warranty is 36 mon/ 50,000 miles.....is that 36mons from when the FIRST guy bought it??.....or from when I bought it....I'd rather get the 50,000 miles , but 36 mons be up before that....would appreciate an answer if any knows.....thanks
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    36 months from the date of original sale and 50k on the odometer. Call Mazda with the VIN for the exact sales date.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Meade
    Former owner of '94 B2300SE

    Please note "former"
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    but you do have to admit that the ranger is one of the best driving small trucks out there. I've never been a fan of Ford products, but I really like my B3.

    Having said that, have any of you M/T owners noticed a problem with the feel of the clutch pedal? Mine tends to engage at different heights.
  • boaz47boaz47 Member Posts: 2,747
    I have had my share of trucks and the Mazda does seem to ride better than the other small trucks I have had. An early Ford Courier, Mazda? A Dodge D-50, Mitzu. A Toyota mini, a Dodge D- 100 and a Dakota. The Mazda does seem to ride better most of the time. It doesn't like real bumpy roads as well as the Dakota or D-100 but other than that for normal driving it seems fine. Like someone else mentioned my clutch does seem a bit vague. But it is nothing I can't live with. It doesn't get the bump steer the D-100 had though. It doesn't sound quite a tinny as my Toyota did and has more room than my D-50 had. Right now I like it almost as well as I did my Dakota so I will wait and see how it holds up in the long run.
  • gary121gary121 Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone, i'm looking into a '99 B3000 5spd 3.0L V6 extcab(2dr), wondering if anybody has any advice/comments/suggestions on whether or not it's a safe buy, or what problems might i engage upon, thanks
    mike
  • dizzytdizzyt Member Posts: 2
    well, I just bought a used 4WD B-4000.
    I was wondering if anyone had any info or things to watch out for before my warranty runs out ?
    Strangely, the truck has a new drive shaft in it despite only having 50000 km's (approx 24000 miles) on it.
    The guy I bought it from said it had a 'clunk' on start and stop so he had it replaced...?
    any comments, links or info would be much appreciated...
    Thanks
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Going to www.fordranger.com and checking out the 4.0L board there. Since your truck is a clone of the Ranger and has the same 4-liter engine, you'll find lots of commentary and problem-solving over there.

    Meade
    (Former B2300 owner who got lots of helpful info over there)
  • lizzy55lizzy55 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2001 Mazda B 4000 top of the line truck .I just hope I dont get a flat tire too far from a tire shop . The truck comes with 245 /16 tires , but to my surprise when I changed the tires on the recall I discovered the spare was a 235/15 about 4 inches shorter than the tires on the truck . With a limited slip differential and a big difference in tire height I know why they are so interested in selling extended warranty it will dive you're spider gears and clutch pack crazy . No response from Mazda so far .
  • truckdude1truckdude1 Member Posts: 88
    My Son is interested in the 2001 Mazda B-2500 four cylinder engine base model. I think it comes with a five speed and air conditioning. Does anybody have an idea on how reliable these engines are, and is the acceleration decent with air conditioning. We just are thinking about the most basic model with air conditioning so anyone out there with the 4 cylinder model, how has it been? whats your milage ? thanks-
    Truckdude1-
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    go for the late 2001 or 2002 B2300. The 2.3L is much better engine than the 2.5. I had a 2.5L manual truck and it was fine but not great. The 2.3L has more power, torque and miles per gal.
  • annafofanaannafofana Member Posts: 4
    Hi all,
    Just purchased my new 2001 B4000 last month. this is a great looking, great riding truck and so far I love it. since I had a little 4 cyl 5sp. 1992 Isuzu pickup for the past 10 years, this mazda is like driving a luxury mobile to me. The Isuzu was a good little pickup though while I had it. The biggest problem was a cauberator rebuild.
    I have about 1300 miles and am getting approx. 17 miles/gal with a mix of city-highway driving (but more city). I just put a fiberglass tonneau on, so this may improve the milage more.

    Here's the main point. Do any of you later model Mazda owners have lids that were created from a specific Mazda mold and not the ford ranger mold?
    I was sold on the Jason Dimension lid because you don't have to take the frame off to remove lid. anyway, the local topper town ordered it for me (after 300 down payment). They then called me on the phone the next day and said that it would be a ranger lid and because the Mazda's outer bed was indented, the lid would overhang about 1/4 inch on each side. I asked if it would still be sealed on the sides and they said yes, so I said OK go ahead and order it. Well, last monday they installed it, but the overhang is alot more that they indicated. I need to go out and measure it, but I know I can get my fingers up under it. I don't think this is going to be very weather tight, which to me kind of defeats the purpose. I plan on doing a hose test to see if the water runs under the rail and into the bed.
    I plan on calling some different companies also to see if they have a specific mazda mold. Maybe no one does. But I don't know if I should try to talk topper town into a different lid or at least try to put some bigger weather stripping, etc on this one. I guess I should have looked into this more before I bought, but I still feel like they misrepresented the lid.
    Sorry so long. what lids do you all have and how do they work for you?
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