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Mazda B Series

1911131415

Comments

  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Congrats on your purchase.

    I don't have a tonneau cover but they look great and wish I did have one. When you speak of a lid I assume you are talking about what we refer out west here as a shell?
  • nebula30nebula30 Member Posts: 20
    I bought a soft tonneau cover made by Le Bra that looks great and is weather tight......it is one of the "zip lock" types.....NO snaps....I haven't had any probs taking it off or putting it on in either the heat or cold , and like I said, the rain doesn't get into my bed......it is a no drill installation that uses clamps....best $200 I've spent on my truck....Pep Boys here in Athens , GA has them for around $179 now(ordered mine online over a yr ago)........I chose a soft cover over a hard cover because if I'm at the hardware store and want to bring something big home....all I have to do is roll it up( I cut a short piece of pvc pipe to make rolling it up easier), and I'm ready to haul...no having to leave a hard top at home...it fits the exact dimension of the bed and looks great......

    By the way, this is for you maltb.....I've noticed here lately that my "door ajar" light stays on longer along with overhead light....sometimes turns off slow...sometimes fast.....any TSB's on that ??.......
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Thanks for the info on the tonneau...I should get one, but my ash tray doesn't have enough change yet.

    There are no TSBs for that, but there are only 2 parts that could cause that: The GEM module and the switch. The switch is about $7 and the GEM is $115. If you are out of warranty, I'd live with it until it becomes annoying.
  • dizzytdizzyt Member Posts: 2
    neb,
    I have the same problem with my door ajar light coming on often...I solve it by making sure the back doors are shut very tight.(I assume you have the 4 door)The door connections seem to be poorly designed to me, but "slamming" them has worked so far
    btw,
    thanks for the info mdaffron!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    No problem. I just went over there and it looks like they've changed the board a bit -- but it's still got a lot of discussion threads in it. You can post a question there and you won't believe some of the answers you'll get!

    BTW, I do remember reading something somewhere about drive shafts in the 4000 series. Especially the extended cab ones, since they had an additional universal joint in them, making them three sections long. There was a TSB or something on them and people were complaining of that clunk noise a few years back. I've also read many comments on that "door ajar" problem too.

    You should also go check out nhtsa.com -- under "problems and issues" they have a section where you can look up the recalls and TSBs on your vehicle. You can also look up and read summaries of consumer complaints about your vehicle too. Sometimes it's reassuring to see you're not the only one experiencing a certain problem.

    Good luck with the truck --

    Meade
  • tone2tonetone2tone Member Posts: 15
    I've got over 80k miles on the truck. It has the 5 spd. Like Post#480 I'm getting intermittent "Door Ajar/interior lights on which eventually go out within 5 min.

    The intermittent wipers staying on even when in the off position.

    The heater temp control knob sometimes works. If I leave it in the "red zone" then the heater will work.

    Finally, the paint has blistered on the cab roof and hood.

    BUT, it's paid for and starts every morning. I'd appreciate any suggestions on remedies etc. Thanks
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    There is a recall on the wipers, see your dealer about that.
  • elcheapo71elcheapo71 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 93 b2200 with 120k. it has been a very serviceable truck, but i also have some odd problems. first, on cold days, the engine tends to rev really high until fully warm. occasionally, it will start doing it after running for a while. this seems to occur in cold weather only. also, it will sometime smoke on startup...much more profusely on very cold mornings. then there is this one: right around 2700 rpm, which happens to be very inconveniently at about 60 mph, it will sputter sometimes. if i go faster or slower, the problem goes away. in addition, my AC quit last summer, and the problem turned out to be a resister which is held onto the blower motor housing by 2 difficult to reach screws. it's really easy to take out the glove box to get to them. the part was about 30 bucks. the ac button is piggy-backed electrically to speed 1 on the fan, so if the light on the button comes on when it is pressed and spd 1 is selected, then goes out if you switch to a faster speed, probably you have the same problem. any help on the stalling and fast idle would be greatly appreciated. also, i tried several seal conditioners to help with the smoke problem, and "bar's stop leak" oil additive helped. i wish this truck had the comfort and performance i want. it has been very serviceable. other than making a cloud of smoke until it's warm, it's very solid. body still tight as a new one.
  • dalesr1dalesr1 Member Posts: 1
    I'm wondering why I don't read about Ford (who build my 2001 B3000 DS cab plus)swapping out ALL Firestone Tires. I went into MY Mazda on Mazda.com and was popped with a recall on a (l) passenger seat belt buckle. When I in went for that, I was told that FORD was pulling ALL the firestone tires and replacing them...that's all 5 tires folks. The service guy said that most of the replacements were Michelin's, and that's what I ended up with...just so you know. Oh, BTW, I really like my Tall Truck. I came out of a '95 SB Isuzu, 'cause I wanted a cab plus to throw my junk into! Take care
  • tone2tonetone2tone Member Posts: 15
    I'd like to go to a larger rim/tire size on my B2300 X-Cab (4 cyl/5 spd) to replace the stock 14" spoke rims. I am wanting to do this on the cheap so my target is stock 15" or 16" rims/mags from another vehicle that would bolt on. Anyone done something similar or recommend something that will work?

    It is also time to replace shocks etc. Any recommendations on that? Thanks
  • eauxdomeauxdom Member Posts: 3
    Any input/feedback on the durability of the 5 speed tranny in the B3000? I see it is manufactured in FRANCE!!! They aren't renown for their quality in auto manufactoring. Feedback please.

    Eauxdom
  • eauxdomeauxdom Member Posts: 3
    Any input/feedback on the durability of the 5 speed tranny in the B3000? I see it is manufactured in FRANCE!!! They aren't renown for their quality in auto manufacturing. Feedback please.

    Eauxdom
  • boaz47boaz47 Member Posts: 2,747
    I thought the stock rim was a 15 inch rim? A 225 x75 x15 tire was stock for quite a few years. So you could go to a 235 x 70 x15 for a wider tire or a 235 x 75 x 15 for a wider taller tire. don't go taller if you climb a lot of hills. You can get a ford rim and it should bolt right on. A 235 x 60 x 16 is the same size hight wise as a 235 x 70 x 15 so it is strictly up to you. Want the same gearing go one size bigger rim and one whole size down from a 70 to a 60 in ratio. Want a taller tire only drop 1/2 size in ratio to a 65. You will lose some bottom end pull with a taller tire. If you have a 14 inch rim the same rule applies. One size bigger rim and one whole size smaller ratio. Two sizes bigger rim and two whole size smaller ratio.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Member Posts: 1,265
    "Someone like Britney Spears doesn't have any integrity to maintain, so it doesn't matter..."


    http://www.motortrend.com/news/stories/020426rz.html


    Shock rocker Rob Zombie prepares to take his music rights law suit against Mazda to court in July over the unauthorized use of his music in a truck commercial.


    LOL!!!

    -Larry

  • lisbeylisbey Member Posts: 21
    Hey Malt--long time no talk. Have a clunking noise in my '01 B-4000 4WD when I make turns--particularly to the right. Has around 19K miles. Anyone else have this problem? I'm thinking suspension or something. I can usually feel it under my feet but the sound seems to be coming from the center or back. Taking it in next week for engine light and thought maybe I could have them address this. You know they'll think I'm crazy when it doesn't happen to the service person. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • cyates2cyates2 Member Posts: 1
    My 1993 b2200 does the same thing as posting 508.
    around 2700 rpm, it will sputter sometimes. if i go faster or slower, the problem goes away. Has any one got any ideas??? Had tune up, replaced plug wires, distributer cap and rotor,plugs
  • nicknixnicknix Member Posts: 1
    I need an ECM for my 1990 B2200 W/EFI. Would appreciate any info anyone could offer.
  • clifford938clifford938 Member Posts: 4
    Just purchased a B2300SE 5-Spd
    Has 93K on it. Just needed a small truck to scoot around town and haul light stuff instead of driving my big 99 GMC Safari
    Any other owners with the 2300 Engine, what's your mileage? How long did/does yours go trouble free? Any problems to know about?
    My observation: for 93K and a (Ford) 4-Cyl. Seems to run good. Could use more power nonetheless
  • brickrocketbrickrocket Member Posts: 1
    have a black mazda b3000, love the look of the edge rails on a ford ranger bed sizes are the same for both trucks , has anyone done this and is it a good fit also is ther a smarter place to get NEW edge bed rails than ford dealer other than junk yard DEALER WAS $172.00 EACH SIDE
  • quark99quark99 Member Posts: 136
    Perfect truck for my needs....yet
    I can't find one to buy.

    Half the Mazda dealers answer my request with
    "Uhhh, I didn't know we HAD a Dual-Sport B4000"
    What's up with that?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    on mazdausa.com. It works great.
  • nebula30nebula30 Member Posts: 20
    My 99' B3000 3.0L just had the check engine light go on.....manual says that it could be a loose gas cap....water in fuel....or a misfire due to running out of gas....and that it'd take 3 cold starts to reset..IF this is the problem....Manual also calls for replacing fuel filter at 30,000 miles....mine just turned over 33,000 miles....could it be that the sensor is picking up water from the fuel filter??....I briefly looked under truck to see where the fuel filter is , and it seems to be on the bed rail just in front of the gas tank??....Is that right?....I've replaced filters in other vehicles where they were up on top of engine so they didn't leak all the fuel out when taking them apart....How are you supposed to change this one without loosing ALL the fuel( short of plugging it with something)....Maybe best to just take it to the dealer or a rep. garage and let them do it...I'll ck tomorrow to see what a fuel filter costs....If anyone could enlighten me on this subject....I'd appreciate it....Thanks
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Any filter change will involve the loss of some amount of fluid. I believe these use the classic Ford snap lock connectors and may require a special tool (or you can fiddle with a small screwdriver for 30 min). With the proper tool, you quickly disconnect and re-connect the filter only losing a few drops of fuel.

    Having said all that, I doubt that's why your light is on. Do you notice it running differently? Also, is the warranty out?
  • nebula30nebula30 Member Posts: 20
    Haven't noticed a difference in how it runs....no skips or misfires I know of....warranty just expired a month ago(figures)...I called dealer serv. dept.....$50 bucks for parts and labor to replace the filter....I think I'm going to let them do it....I figured that they had a special tool to remove the filter....I may also ask them what it'd cost to have them hook up to the computer and see what set the light to come on....any idea what that should run (on average)?....just so I'll know if they are giving me a fair price....I never did let them replace the power control module for the pinging....I was afraid they'd make it worse or tear something else up....Time was running out on my warranty, so I didn't want to come out of my pocket if that happened...Premium fuel does the trick....Could you refresh my memory on what the whole issue of which type of driveshaft SHOULD be in my truck to keep it from developing a vibration?.....I looked at mine....looks like an aluminum one as opposed to steel.....I appreciate all the good info maltb............Thanks
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    Keep looking until you find one - a B4000 Dual Sport is worth searching for.

    I purchased one in February, and I have been quite pleased with it. The only problem has been a failed trip odometer; the dealer replaced the instrument cluster in less than one hour. The 4.0L SOHC engine is really strong, and the 5-sp auto trans is smooth. It might very well be the best truck I have ever had. Just don't count on transporting adults or small kids in the jump seats.

    Good luck.
  • whadyathinkwhadyathink Member Posts: 2
    I am considering buying a '98 B2500 SE XCab, it has 87,000 miles but seems like it has been well taken care of and for $80.00 I had a echanic tell me it's in good shape except for a few minor things.
    Truck is stripped down other than: alloys, bedliner, AC, tonneau cover.
    Here's the thing: the dealer is asking $6500 and seems unwilling to budge on price (he has agreed to make minor necessary repairs and replace all tires.)
    The Edmunds TMV for the truck is $5,700 (not including the tonneau cover)
    the Kelley Blue Book.com lists the same truck w/same mileage and same added features at $9,285.
    How is this possible? the two quotes aren't even close!
    Which one is (closer to being) right?
    Is the truck a good value for $6500?
    Thanks in advance for any feedback and any advice on this truck
  • ukcat2ukcat2 Member Posts: 1
    How would you compare 4 door with the extended cab toyota Tacoma. I am looking at the two of them and I was wondering why you purchased the Mazda instead of the Toyota.
  • bigbutrbigbutr Member Posts: 111
    I recently visited a Mazda dealership which had a B2300 Extended Cab with the 4-cylinder engine and a 5-speed. Is this version new because I haven't been able to find out any information on Edmunds or any other car price website about invoice pricing. The dealership tried to sell me one for a little over $18,000, but I said no way. I know for a fact I can get one of the B3000 Cab Plus with the 6-cylinder, automatic and power everything with rebate out the door for just over $16,000.
    I like the four-banger for better gas mileage and since I'm not a speed demon, I don't care that I wouldn't be able to blow someone off the line. Does anyone know where I can get some pricing info?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    It was a response to the above post. It was there after I posted it. Where'd it go?

    Meade
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    I didn't see that post, and I didn't delete a post here, so it's hard to say exactly what happened. If our roving host or myself had deleted a post for a terms of use problem, you would have gotten an email explaining why.

    With the server problems we've been having here, it's also possible that the system caused the problem. That has happened on some of the boards from time to time.


    PF Flyer
    Host
    Pickups & News & Views Message Boards

  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    If our roving host or myself had deleted a post for a terms of use problem, you would have gotten an e-mail explaining why.

    Unless you are part of the frequent offender program. In that case they cut all the red tape and with one swoosh you are an archive on some lonely server in the basement. Not that I would I would know this of course.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    It's just amazing how you always seem to know where I am. I'm spooked.

    Meade
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    It's you I follow....
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
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  • whadyathinkwhadyathink Member Posts: 2
    Hey Nebula30,
    I recently purchased a '98 B2500 and just recently started having the same issue w/the 'check engine' light. My manual says the same thing about the gas cap and 3 cold starts etc. The car lot where I bought it said they had replaced the fuel filter before selling it, so I am assuming this isn't the prob. Did you ever find out what was causing your light to go on? Any resolution to the issue?
    thanks
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    Most autoparts stores will either sell or even loan you a code tool that will allow you to pull codes from your computer, and even reset them. That will tell you which sensor is tripping the light.
  • nebula30nebula30 Member Posts: 20
    Hey Whadyathink,

    Go over to the Ford Ranger problems board and look at postings 496 and mine....497 .
    I told that guy what I'd found out about the ck engine light and a probable fix for it......
  • billj52billj52 Member Posts: 1
    I've owned 4 mazda pickups (all pre-90 models) and now my '89 B2600I is starting to slowly nickel and dime me to death. I still love the old thing but after 13 years, my eyes are once again roving. The 98 Ford 4X4 that I use for work is on the auction block this week. With the money I get from unloading this behemoth, what kind of Ford Ranger/Mazda offers the best bang for 10 grand? Almost all of my driving is on the interstates....Thanks in advance for your feedback!
  • tone2tonetone2tone Member Posts: 15
    The top of the cab and hood have been blistering on my Mazda Ext Cab SE. Rest of the truck is fine. Color is the metallic dark green. Has anyone had similar problems that were addressed by the factory? Thanks
  • 107main107main Member Posts: 33
    I cannot believe what the Mazda folks are telling me about my problem...A SAFETY HAZARD!!!
    I have a 99 B4000 bought in April 99 and with 33000 miles on it. Just recently, the drive indicator has gotten out of alignment so that when the transmission is in N (neutral), the truck is actually in reverse. I went to the Mazda dealer in Columbia (Pulliam Wray), and they looked at it and told me "It is out of warranty, and that they will charge me to fix it." I complained that it is just out of warranty but only has 33k on it and is a safety hazard. They don't care, if it is one day out of warranty, you pay. So much for ANY good will! I told them it is a SAFETY HAZARD. They tell me they will first have to diagnose it for $52.00. I told them look you can see it is not correct, it is already diagnosed. They still want the $52 bucks. Then they may contact Mazda about it, I suppose if I complain enough. I am still out of $52 and may have to pay rest of repair bill to get it fixed! If it were just something like running rough or etc, Mazda's lack of concern on this, A SAFETY HAZARD, astounds me! I called Mazda, a Mr. Cid (won't give last name) told me the same thing, I called the local store manager and he told about the same thing too. The bottom line is, the whole Mazda bunch apparently does not give a rip about fixing a safety problem out of warranty. You are responsible, it is your vehicle. They all seem to have lost that "We Care about you attitude." that they all had when I was buying the vehicle. I now can truly understand how these companies get into these big multimillion dollar lawsuits over safety issues on the vehicles. How sad it is after all the bucks we pay for these vehicles.
    I just guess that I was totally spoiled after owning Hondas for 10 years. I was never treated like this with them. My daughters Honda quit on her one time with 55K on odometer and it was towed in and they paid the towing without us even mentioning them paying. They replaced a coil that was on recall for free. Now they did not have to do that, but this is what keeps folks coming back to Honda. Honda, please come out with a pickup, I will need a new one in next couple of years. It won't be a Mazda after this lack of care from them. The Mazda truck has been a good one, I admit, but just hope you don't have any trouble with it as I get the feeling they are really money hungry form my experience with the local dealer.
    Anybody else had this problem?
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    But they are right. That's why extended warranties exists, and are worth every penny. That is a very rare, if not unique problem with your vehicle. If the problem was with the truck, there would be a recall, which would fix the item for free, like the Honda.

    Honda is coming out with a pickup. I think '04 or '05. Off topic, Porsche is coming out with one too, which has 450 HP!

    But it's not really a safety hazard, because you know about it. And whoever drives the truck should know it's idiosyncrasies, and how to deal with them. Like stories my folks used to tell me, where they had vehicles with no Reverse, or 1st gear. That made for some interesting planning when parking the car.

    I've also driven manual transmission cars, with the stick shift on the steering column, with NO indicator guage at all, and it passed state inspection. Safety hazard? In today's lawsuit frenzied culture, maybe, but realistically any mass produced machine will have a quirk or two pop up here and there...

    If you own a tool box, you can probably fix it in about an hour or two. Just open up the dash instrument panel, and try to fix the indicator manually. Put it into Neutral (use parking brake), disconnecting the wire that connects to the gauge, changing gears to what is displayed in the guage, and then reattaching the wire.

    It could also be just as easy to do this at the transmission, instead of behind the instrument cluster. You might be able to move the indicator by hand, or even just paint over it to display what it should. A haynes manual available at any automotive store should help you.
  • 107main107main Member Posts: 33
    midnight_stang,
    You are correct, I can fix this problem. I have found the problem and is is caused by cheapness in an inferior part, not a normal wear problem. I do not like having to pay to replace a cheap piece, given cost of vehicle, which I have already paid! I looked under the dash after consulting a Ford CD manual. There is a cable from the indicator that connects to the shift lever bar. This cable has a thumbwheel mounted between a stationary plastic clip attached to the steering column to adjust indicator position. The plastic piece looks like a cheap dimestore toy. It is so thin, that it was bound to break, which it did. I guess that is why two Ford dealers and the Mazda stock this part on their shelves.(So much for the rare problem theory!) You cannot buy this one little 50 cents piece, you have to buy the whole assembly, which only retails for $19 to $20. The manual calls for dash removal and replacement of the entire assembly...$100 plus labor. I will bet you that what they do and what I would do is simply screw off the clip from the new cable assembly and replace only the little clip, which you can do, no need to pull the dash to do it, just crawl up under and have at it. BUT, I would bet they would charge for the entire operation as if they replaced the whole piece. I asked about this to a mechanic and he said only to check and make sure the indicator cable is not binding before doing it this way. Wonder why they are so familiar with this "rare" problem? I still say it is a safety problem and Ford/Mazda would lose any court case based on what I see and am documenting to send to the DOT. They could have made the part stronger for only pennies more and I would not be having this discussion. Your saying that anyone driving the truck should know it's idiosyncrasies. That is just bull! I can't let anyone drive it until I fix it, because I would be involved a lawsuit along with the dealer and Mazda if they had a wreck because of this 10 cents part breaking.
    Glad you heard Honda is coming out with a truck. I will plan on getting one. Timing should be about right by then.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    How is it a safety issue? Don't forget how the DOT(NHTSA) can suggest or force a recall. It must be a safety issue. In your example of the Honda coil, the vehicle had a high potential to stall upon acceleration; a definite safety issue. In your truck, you are one position off? big deal. I'm not trying to minimize the problem, but you definitely seem to be maximizing it.

    What really cracks me up is that you'd rather go through all this than fix it yourself for $20. What's it like living in your world?
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    You better not look at the clips that hold on your fuel filter, 107main. They are fairly cheap but are still buggers to get off, easily breaking or bending them.

    I'm sorry if I sound a bit skeptical, it's just after you drive a car for a few years, do you even have to look at the gear indicator to know what gear it is in? Of course I wouldn't assume my girlfriend would figure it out on her own, but I'd tell her, and that would be that. If it became an issue, I would have it fixed the next weekend by noon.
  • 107main107main Member Posts: 33
    Do you two work for Mazda by any chance? You sound just like Mazda..."Problem, what problem?"
    Maltb, as for me "going through all this", I am retired, SO I have the time to do it! $20 is nothing to me, I could go down to Mazda and write a check for any vehicle they have on the lot! This is my world, how is yours? Just maybe, by me pursuing this, they might spend a few cents more so this does not happen in the future and save some poor sole making monthly payments from having to fork out a couple of hundred bucks to get this repaired because of a cheap part and/or causing an accident due to a wrong gear indication. And, midnight stang, contrary to what you say, I have found already that it is a problem as to what gear I am in now. You would not think so, but it is tricky without the visual indication. Try covering up your indicator and drive the vehicle for a week and let me know how it goes. Don't be careful and think about it, just pop it where your feel thinks it should be and see what happens. And don't go back to the straight drive thing, totally different thing, a clutch is involved.
    In the end, I will most probably fix this my self, because I do not really want them to disassemble the dash, which will probably screw things up on the other instruments.
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    Park / Reverse / Neutral / Overdrive / Drive / 2 / 1.

    Actually I never even look, I just put it into gear. In the morning I put it one back from Park, and back out of the parking spot. Then two more back, and it's into overdrive/auto. If I miss, I'll either be in neutral, or just plain drive. No biggie, but I'll know it by the RPM's.

    And go ahead and take off the dash. All Ford/Mazda wiring harnesses have very secure electrical connectors. It usually take a very determined individual with a screwdriver to remove one. The only thing to worry about is getting the cluster back in right, so it doesn't squeak or rattle.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    The friggin truck is out of warranty! Do you expect a machine as complex as an automobile to last forever? I can't imagine what you would do if the part was $30!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    TEMPER!!!

    Meade
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I was waiting 19 days for you to come and calm me down. All is better now.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    ;-)

    Took you long enough to cool down, huh?
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