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Mazda B Series

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  • itoyotaitoyota Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 B2200 truck and I'm not sure if my original carb is bad. The truck runs good for short trips, but if you run for more than 6 miles or 20 minutes they start failing like a clog carb. In that point and don't know what to do. The external gas filter looks good, but I don't know if the filter inside the tank are clogged or maybe can be an electric problem. anybody can you give me any hint about that?

    Thank You!
  • wardk99wardk99 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 B2300 with the 5 speed and I have over 300,000 miles and it has been to Calif, once and to NY twice from Fl. The only things that I have had to do to it is replace the clutch once, the water pump and the timinig belt. I only replaced the timming belt due to the age and the fact that I was going to Calif. with it. It has to be the best vehical I have ever owned and at the age of 51, I have a lot of cars and trucks. :)
  • zsteddumzsteddum Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 mazda b2300 2.3l 2 weel drive with some damage to the LH fender and have been trying to find a replacement part for awhile now. I was wondering if anyone would know if a 2004 mazda b2300 2.3l 4wd is the same as the 2wd and where i might be able to find one for the best price?

    Thank you
  • chas15chas15 Member Posts: 2
    Am retired so picked up a small pickup three years ago and put new brakes,tires,shocks,gas tank and thought that was it.Just wanted some thing big enough to pull my small camper.It started to smoke some on startup and figured valve seals were leaking and needed a new timing belt anyways so decided to get a longblock rebuild,,they called and said my clutch was not all that great so said put a new one in.Four thousand dollars later I'm starting the break in period.From all I've read about the 91 it's a great little truck and it does pull my camper just fine.Got to do a little rust fixing but that's OK and it should last a good while.Amazing how much you can put into an older truck to get it into shape.Then again maybe I went to far..Wonder if any others have have done similar with theirs.
    Chas
  • carolinabobcarolinabob Member Posts: 576
    I had a 92 REAL Mazda pick-up and was very pleased. Traded it in on a 97 B2300, which is a FORD Ranger. Since warranty, have had it in shop four times for Check Engine. Each time, it cost between $100-200 except last week when it cost $350 to replace the spark plugs and wiring.
    Has 85,000 miles on it and three months ago, it died due to a failed fuel pump. Cost $350 to replace that. Now the gas gauge has died and the rubber tube for the gas filler is cracked. That's $450 for the tube replacement and $200 for the fuel gauge. Talked to two Ford (Mazda) dealers and one independent. All three stated replacing the fuel pump would not have caused the gauge or tube to break - "old age" did it.
    Sell it before you get 50,000 miles on it.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Hey, my 88 Ranger has 175,000 miles on it, new radiator, clutch, and that's it. Never had a check engine light yet. The Ranger has been compared for years to the Tacoma for reliability. One bad B2300, B3000 or B4000 does not a bad series make. Mine is the 4.0L by the way.
  • chas15chas15 Member Posts: 2
    On my 91 Mazda it looked like my gas tank was leaking so had them put a new one in,,but it wasn't the gas tank it was a rusted filler tube.They had to go to an auto wrecker to get a replacment,,and my gas gauge doen't work right so make sure I refill every 300 KLM.Still haven't got the 500 KLM put on the new motor before it's due for an oil change but it's close.When driving can feel the tightness of the new motor and clutch and it feels very nice.Will be fixing the few rust spots on the door soon as the warmer weather gets here.Am looking for an after market checkered rear bumper for it but it's next to imposible to find here in the Vancouver area.Even though it cost a bundle to get it up to snuff,,I'm glad I had the work done,,it's a great little truck.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    I may purchase one of these with automatic. Any comments from owners on likes or dislikes on this model?
  • itoyotaitoyota Member Posts: 2
    I fixed! My gas tank was contaminated with rust. I pull out the tank and cleaned insided take all the rust put a new gas filter and new gas. Now is running better than ever. Easy fix!
  • ron03ron03 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have a 2000 Mazda B3000 truck and the gas flap says that it may be able to use ethanol(E85) fuel, but that I should look at the users manual for details. The users manual says that some models are Flex Fuel Vehicles (FFV). Does anybody know how I can tell for sure if my truck is a FFV. Thank you.
  • truckdriftintruckdriftin Member Posts: 2
    I have a 88 B2200. I am live in virginia where we have a state inspection, but i already have one for this year. I am tryin to get as much stuff off of the motor like the a/c compressor,finder wells, and pretty much everything i can get rid of to lose weight. I have taken the crazy stuff that is attached to the air cleaner and put a 4" chrome filter on . I am really tryin to get rid of some of the vacuum lines b/c honestly it looks like spaghetti. If anyone knows which vacuum lines that really aren't necessary for the truck to still run ok. The truck is going to be used for drifting. On a track not the street Im crazy not retarded. But seriously if anyone can help me it would be great. Thanks for your time. TRUCKDRIFTER
  • truckdriftintruckdriftin Member Posts: 2
    As far as i know all vehicles that run off of ethanol have a tree leaf emblem on the front fenders. Also if you call a parts store and ask them for a fuel filter and they would be able to tell you which VIN digit tells you if it does. I hope this works for you GOOD LUCK TRUCKDRIFTER
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    If the Gas Flap says you can, you can. That is exactly where they put the minimum octane requirement information for you. Fill with confidence and put that corn oil in there!
  • par6par6 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000...B2500...pickup....short bed...

    I'm looking for some tailgate hardware..EX:...support cable..latches and latch bolts, etc;

    Is there a web site where I can go too?...much appreciated if anyone can help.

    Thanks....Ken
  • pnotechpnotech Member Posts: 1
    I have an '82 Mazda diesel pickup and need a wiring diagram for the engine, or a picture of the wiring around the starter. I replaced the starter, and must not have labeled the wires I removed very well because now I don't seem to be getting any fuel to the injectors. These have an electric fuel cutoff, right? The only manual I can find is a book-sized Chilton, and they haven't been very helpful in the past. Any input would be appreciated!
  • boyceboyce Member Posts: 48
    Since Ford is canceling the Ranger, does that mean that Mazda will no longer sell a pickup in the US?

    2015 Mazda 3 Skyactive 6spd. auto 2008 Mazda Tribute S 4spd auto.

  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Ford extended the Ranger to 2011. New Ranger will be introduced at that time. It will the global design Ranger and not unique to US/Canada.
    Mazda has no plans at this time to sell the new version. The compact truck market will have to significantly improve for Mazda to consider a truck offering.
  • boyceboyce Member Posts: 48
    Thanks for your reply. Sorry to hear there will be no Mazda version. Have a good relationship with local Mazda dealer but not so good with the 2 local Ford dealers. Thanks again, Bud

    2015 Mazda 3 Skyactive 6spd. auto 2008 Mazda Tribute S 4spd auto.

  • loneranger2loneranger2 Member Posts: 7
    Have new 2008 Ford Ranger 4cyl Turbo Diesel, 4x4, four door Crew Cab. Was built in Thailand at the Ford/Mazda Plant. Was told it was built on the Mazda B 4000 truck frame. I'm trying to find a Bull Bar to fit the front. IT is a Ford Ranger on a Mazda Frame. Not Soled in the U.S. Con anyone help me out? The Lone Ranger 2
  • loneranger2loneranger2 Member Posts: 7
    My 2008 Ford Ranger may just be that NEW 2011 Design. 4cyl TURbo DIESEL!! Four Door Crew Cab with slightly longer bed. Ya'll can look it up on Ford/MazdaThailand 2008 The lone Ranger 2
  • miket10miket10 Member Posts: 2
    I bought this truck cause really it was a steal.500.00 with tons of new parts and brand new panther rims with sales reciept(1380.00 not including the new rubber).Theproblem is with the transmission.They replaced the clutch and evidently while doing so they let the gear oil drain and,didn't bother refilling it.Yeah,it only has 5th and a very very weak reverse.What I was wondering is,are their any other trannys that will bolt up to this.The engine is of course 2.2 but,I'm sure if it's a 92 engine cause it is fuel injected and every book I have found says that is impossible,they didn't make them till a year or two later.Even the owners manual shows a carb.And when I pulled the tranny out it did seem to be about an 1-1 1/2 shorther than it should of been.I say this because you can claerly see where the carrier bearing bracket was at one time and thats how far off it is now.So if you can make any sense out of my ramblin can you give me some advise?I would greatly appreciate it.
  • murphy32murphy32 Member Posts: 2
    I purchased my 1986/1987 B2000 pick-up about a month ago for $600.00

    So, far I've had to get new brakes and a couple of other things done to it which cost @$500 total.

    But the truck runs great. It can really take all of the running around I do in it.

    The only problem is that it does not have the "out of gas warning light" that comes with the newer cars; so, I ran out of gas the other day and when after I finally got the tank filled up again, the car stalls out. Now it keeps stalling if I idle in it for more than 5 seconds.

    It's a shame because I REALLY like that little truck.

    Most mechanics won't even bother working on it because it is so old and they just don't know that much about it. I believe that once an older car runs out of gas, you have to fill up the gas tank and add gas to the carburetor in order to get it running again, but since I don't know that much about cars, I can't add the gas to the carburetor myself and the mechanics just tell me that you only need to add gas to the carburetor if it is a new car that is coming off of the lot.

    Anyway, I'd really appreciate some suggestions you might have.
  • 1988mozda1988mozda Member Posts: 1
    hi im rodney i have just managed to get a hold of a 1988 mozda pickup man does it burn oil! i need to replase the head gaskets do u no were i could possibly get a set of cheep gaskets just untill i put a 320 in thanx :sick:
  • axle1axle1 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1994 mazda b4000, how do you get the plastic trim off around the wheel wells?
  • ceh2369ceh2369 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 B2500 p/u. It's almost got 100k on the chase and a remanufactured short block engine with about 40-45k on it. I recently had my truck inspected and noticed my trans. fluid is black. My truck takes Dexron II or III ATF. I'm contemplating getting a flush, fluid, and filter replacement because I only plan on having the truck another 2 years at the most. I heard that flushing the trans. may cause damage in the future due to the chemicals they use to clean it can break up dirt and metal particals that will remain and can get into other areas. Has anyone heard about this? I'm not noticing any real problems with the transmission, but after having to put a rebuilt engine block in a few years back, everything makes me nervous, so I feel like I should at least replace the fluid and filter. What's a fair price to have that done, by the way? Any feedback or suggestions is very much appreciated.
  • r_lopezr_lopez Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 b-2200 although I dont think i have ever run it out of gas, I know if u do your fuel pick up will suck all the crap from the bottom of your tank. Try replacing your fuel filter it could just be clogged.
    Good luck with finding a mechanic
    Richard
  • csnow2csnow2 Member Posts: 1
    I am trying (slowly and not always expertly) to get a b2200 running correctly again. When I got the truck, the head gasket was blown and the intake was off. It runs now, and I don't think it is overheating anymore. I couldn't get it to idle without adjusting the timing improperly. I fixed this by changing the carb. The old one had the choke wire broken off and some other issues. OK, here are the questions:

    1. Where does the choke wire go? I have heard that it connects to the alternator, but have not found any empty wires or spots for it to go.

    2. I had two carbs and two intakes when I started (came w/ the truck). One of the plates under the carb had a wire coming off of it. Anyone know where this wire goes?

    3. I have the truck so that it will idle now, but at over 1000 rpm. If I put it lower, it dies (no choke hooked up on a warm/hot day). If I put the truck in reverse (oh, it is an automatic), it dies if I hold the brake. If I hit the gas, it usually stays running. Some of the time I put it in forward it will stay running, otherwise it dies. If I am driving and slow down to turn, the truck dies.

    The truck had a blown head gasket before I got it. Would the o2 sensor cause any of these issues? The wire for it is beat up, but I am pretty sure the wire is still ok. Would one of the catalytic converters cause an issue like this? I think the truck has two if memory serves (I put it together a LONG time ago, and now finally have the time to mess with it).

    Oh, just remembered another issue. A previous owner must have had the fuel pump (in-tank on automatics) go out and not wanted to pay the 100 plus to buy a replacement, so he put a manual pump in it. It doesn't seem to deliver a lot of fuel. I put a filter on one of the hoses by the carb and you can see fuel spray into it, but it never has any sitting in it. Of course, there is always the chance that I hooked something up wrong way back when... but if I did, I doubt it would run at all. I replaced the filter below the tank this morning and now it idles, it didn't before. I also don't have a lot of gas in the tank. Would a very low/mostly old amount of gas cause idling probs? I guess i should go grab a few gallons of gas and see. I just don't want to fill it up much if I am going to have to pull the tank and replace the pump.

    Any help would be appreciated. I don't have a huge amount of funds (layed off atm), but a lot of time. I really like this truck and want to start driving it. I just don't want to have it die on me all the time.
  • murphy32murphy32 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1986 B2000 and I've had some of the same problems that you have stated above but unfortunately I do not fix my own pick-up truck.

    My truck used to shut off when it idled also, but once I got a tune up, it was fine.

    My truck has overheated and because I was too much of a dumbass to have it checked right away, the head gasket became warped and I had to have to have that replaced. But I also had to have a new carburetor put in.

    Regarding the fuel tank issues, at one point I ran out of gas and as another poster indicated, that created havoc on my fuel system. So, my suggestion is not to let your fuel get too low & if the car has been sitting for a while, that may well be your problem.

    I, too, don't have much money so it really helped me that I was able to go to craigslist and find a low price mechanic who would do the work and let me pay him later. His name is Larry, 215-743-2914 & he might even give you free advice over the phone about your truck. It can't hurt to ask. If you can do the work yourself, you might want to barter for the parts, etc.

    Sorry, if I wasn't much help. Good luck!
  • indulgeressindulgeress Member Posts: 1
    I just had my fuel pump replaced on a 1999 Mazda B2500 pick-up 2.5 liter. I think I was over-charged.
    I was billed $1003.29 for Fuel pump,filter, and installation. My truck died and would not restart. I had it towed to the shop, and it was fixed by the end of the next day. Can you give me an idea of average ball-park cost for this repair?

    Thanks for your time & expertise!

    Now seriously broke in Denver, Colorado
  • kennyogorekkennyogorek Member Posts: 1
    I'm currently looking at purchasing a 1990 B2600i SE5 4x4 with 197k miles. Is this mileage too high for this engine and is there any life left in it? The truck is in excellent condition and has had 1 owner.( old man). I'm just trying to make sure that the engine won't go before I get some use out of the vehicle.
  • chris454chris454 Member Posts: 1
    i am tring to remedy a problem for a friend his pickup has an intermintent problem. every so often it runs very rough and has no power, we replaced the fuel pump and that seemed to fix it, well it is acting up again. anyone have advice. replaced fuel filter also. also can anyone tell me where you can hook up a scan tool?
  • derstahlhelmderstahlhelm Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92' B2600, and I would like to know how to remove the lower radiator hose? The hose busted a couple of weeks ago, therefore it's been sitting ever since. I have searched at all the local autopart stores and no one has in stock a repair manual for the truck.
  • terryp1terryp1 Member Posts: 55
    I got a rebuilt carb from a reputable company. But it has been a horror story, bit by bit. Short version: the float adjustment was off by more than ONE HALF INCH; the coil inside the choke was way too tight; but after finally figuring out and fixing those there was still a problem with the thing running way, way too rich.

    I called the company and described the problem and a person there said it probably was a solenoid not working, which by default would then let gas go through without enough air to mix with it.

    So I swapped out the old solenoids from the previous carburetor and found that the "slow fuel cut solenoid valve" in the new one was missing the heart of its reason for being: an inch-and-a-half-long nail-like pin that pushed in and out to permit or stop the flow of fuel. I put in that pin from the old one.
    It runs better.

    But.....it just failed emissions. For years it had been passing with lots to spare. Now the CO% is far too high:

    15 mph reading is 6.65 and should be no more than 01.69
    25 mph reading is 8.32 and should be no more than 02.20

    So the thing is burning too rich.
    How can I adjust that down?
  • blu99blzrblu99blzr Member Posts: 14
    I don't know specific numbers, but ballpark is about $300 for the pump, $10 for the filter. That must have been a LOT of labor charge and tow fees. Sorry - you got reamed.
  • tuffy4tuffy4 Member Posts: 2
    edited February 2010
    The truck-1992 b2600i 4x4 5speed kingcab.
    The Problems- When I shift the transfer case into 4hi and start to drive (wether forward in any gear or in reverse) the truck starts making a loud clanking sound from under the truck. The sound resignates somewhere from the transfercase forward. I think it is either in the clutch or t-case itself thats making the sound because it does NOT make the sound when the clutch pedal is pushed in and It ONLY makes this sound in 4hi, NOT 2hi and NOT 4low. When the clanking starts I feel the clanks in the clutch pedal very softly and if I dont hold the tranny shifter tightly in gear (ie. 1st gear must be pushed up very hard and reverse pulled down very hard) it makes a sound like the gear has come out of gear and the n you feel in the shifter the gears spinning as if its the gears were scraping but not going into eachother fully. I also notice when I am driving that when ever I stop and shut the truck down then go back to it with in a short period of time I can smell the smell of a slipping clutch
    The Questions- could my tranny or transfercase be somehow getting hot while driving and burning the clutch fluid or could the smell be coming from an incorrectly adjusted clutch? I was told the cluch master cylinder was recently replaced so is there an adjustment on a hydraulic clutch system or could i need to rebleed the system?
    Is this my transfer case having a broken tooth thats only on the 4hi gear or could the clutch have something to do with it? Just wondering because it never clanks in 2hi nor 4low nor when the clutch pedal is pushed in.
    I can perform adjustments and bleed the system and thats all I know, So, Does the issues sound like adjustments or should I just take it to a tranny shop?
  • striker332000striker332000 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '99 Mazda B-3000 p/u. The gear shifter gauge that reads drive, park, or neutral doesnt work. I am assuming its a cable that needs replacing. Where can I find this cable location?

    Second question. I bought a fuel filter. It stated that I need to depressurize my fuel system. How do I go about that?

    Thanks for your help. I appreciate this a whole lot.
  • striker332000striker332000 Member Posts: 2
    Re posted: I have a '99 Mazda B-3000 p/u. The gear shifter gauge that reads drive, park, or neutral doesnt work. I am assuming its a cable that needs replacing. Where can I find this cable location?

    Second question. I bought a fuel filter. It stated that I need to depressurize my fuel system. How do I go about that?

    Thanks for your help. I appreciate this a whole lot.
  • kurtdouglaskurtdouglas Member Posts: 1
    terryp1---have similar run rich problem on same model...did you find a cure as I have no brave mechanics to check things over it seems. Thank you. KurtK
  • kumar30kumar30 Member Posts: 1
    i hav a b2500,when shifted to 4x4 & turned right side .there is a loud noise like sumthing breaking, changed the trans &diff oil 85w90 prob still exists thanks
  • munch3munch3 Member Posts: 1
    Do you still have the clanging problem in 4 hi? I have the same truck but it's an automatic and on 2 occasions have had a similar problem. Both times it was in cold weather. I noticed that your post was in February. I'm wondering whether some part of the linkage, maybe part of the remote free wheel system is icing up and preventing the mechanism from fully engaging.
  • maxy2maxy2 Member Posts: 10
    Mazda B series are based on the ford ranger but sadly it didn’t work out on the market.
  • ronartronart Member Posts: 1
    ECU question (1992 Mazda B2200 Sport fuel injected)

    Though I have read on a few forums that people have replaced their ECU... I have not read that anyone suggests performing specific tests BEFORE installing the ECU.

    The reason I am concerned is that I received back an ECU that stated that the solenoids/relays must have a resistance value of no less than 20 ohms or it could damage the ECU.

    I called Mazda about this and they seemed clueless, but... they said that they do perform tests on the connector to see if there are any shorts, etc. prior to installing the ECU (so I assume this is probably what it is).

    Mazda also said that they MUST reprogram the ECU after it is reinstalled for it to function properly.

    No where have I read that this is necessary.

    Mazda said that they charge $99 to 'reprogram' the ECU and if they have to diagnose it after that it would be an additional $99.

    Does this seem correct or are they doing things that are unnecessary?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Regards,

    Ron
  • bbowen53bbowen53 Member Posts: 2
    what gas mileage should I get from a 1996 Mazda B2300 4cyl. auto with air?
  • dbaileydbailey Member Posts: 3
    Guys I gotta major amount of confusion and need some assistance. For awhile there the check engine light was coming on and I forget what I did if anything to get it to stop. Now the check oil light comes on sometimes and it is full of oil and I change it every 3000 miles. I have the 4.0 engine and 5 speed tranny. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • kenter50kenter50 Member Posts: 2
    your still paying too much for it, buy a used one for 5000 less still under warranty save ten thousand $'s over 10yrs.
  • kenter50kenter50 Member Posts: 2
    unhook your batry 4 an hr and then rehook it up
  • nbunte43nbunte43 Member Posts: 2
    As soon as I start my truck and engage it into drive or reverse the truck begins to do a sequence of dings. It makes 5 dings then after about 5 seconds it begins another set of 5 dings. It does this sequence for five sets of five dings. Then after 30 minutes of driving it does this same sequence again. The truck does not show any check engine lights or anythign like that. This is quite annoying! Any help would be much appreciated. THANKS!!
  • nbunte43nbunte43 Member Posts: 2
    BTW...the truck is a 1999.
  • snyderlitesnyderlite Member Posts: 1
    SERVICE BULLETIN REGARDING A HOOTING, EEKING, OR MOANING NOISE COMING FROM THE CLUTCH WHEN SHIFTING INTO GEARS. Any ideas ?
  • DamonpineDamonpine Member Posts: 1

    I have a 1983 Mazda b2000 pickup manual 5 speed and when I run it sounds like it’s not getting enough air or gas to the engine and I don’t know where to start to fix the issue

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