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I'm about ready for my tire rotation and was looking into new wipers since they've been on there about 8 months. I've gone to a number of the big parts dealers and all indicate they've never seen such a wiper. After reading a post in this forum, I'm almost afraid to ask the Toyota dealer for the price of the wiper inserts.
One additional question that someone may have the answer to. When I first bought the car I was told it came with a DVD that had the manual on it. I never found the DVD and contacted the dealer. He provided me a web site that had the manual in a very nice format. I've lost that URL. Anyone know where I might find the on-line Avalon manual?
Denny
Denny -
I've used the laser controlled cruise control often - didn't realize brake lights didn't come on. I find this really amazing, especially since Toyota has gone over backwards to cover their legal liability with the GPS navigation software. Also, endless legal wordage in the manual about safety stuff.
Seems like a very dangerous omission to me.
Max
The early cruise controls were designed to be instantly cancelled with brake application. There was even a failsafe system, bleeder resistor, so that if the brake lights were out the cruise control would not engage. My 2001 Porsche still operates as above.
So, how do you illuminate the brake lights without cancelling the cruise control?
Simple: The brake lights should always go on whenever the brakes are applied -- whether applied by a driver's foot or by the laser cruise controller.
Turning on the brake lights should have nothing to do with cancelling or not cancelling cruise control.
havalongavalon
Cruise controls have ALWAYS been designed so they are CANCELLED the instant the driver touches the brake pedal (or clutch or "shifter"). That is, of course, just as it should be.
The very last thing any of us need to have happen is to apply the brakes but have the cruise control continue trying to hold a set speed.
As a failsafe, in case the brake circuit happens to be open or not working, there are extra components and circuits designed in to be sure the cruise control can never be engaged, or remain engaged, if the brake light circuit isn't fully operational.
Personally I would have designed in a second set of brake light bulbs, LEDS(??) so the cruise control braking indication could still be made independent of the brake pedal (circuit) itself.
Most questions of what's okay and what's not okay can be answered by either the Rules of the Road, or the Membership Agreement - both are linked on the left side of the page.
But please always feel free to email me or any of the hosts (email addresses are in our profiles) with any questions you might have.
A) Stopping in the shortest possible distance?
Remaining on the runway centerline during emergency STOP measures?
C) Using ABS to help remain on the runway centerline while otherwise maximizing braking effects?
D) None of the above, divert to Seattle.
ABS has nothing to do with directional control on an airplane; rudder, assymetric thrust, or nosewheel steering maintain directional control. The only purpose of ABS is to take the wheel as close as possible to an impending skid, and minimizing the stopping distance. The same is true on an auto; ABS by itself has nothing to do with directional stability. Now, if the auto has a stability control system, that system will brake individual wheels to maintain directional control, using the ABS system. If the auto does not have some type of stability control, ABS does nothing for directional control; its only purpose is to minimize stopping distance.
Just the opposite; unless the car has some type of stability control system, (VSC, ESP, Stabilitrak, etc., depending on the make) ABS has nothing to do with directional control.
ABS does have something to do with directional control, but only in a PASSIVE sense. By precluding wheel lockup, ABS provides some remaining tire/ground friction to allow steering control. If the wheels were locked up, that steering control would not be available, or would be severely degraded. It's certainly true that VSC is required to provide ACTIVE directional control.
Max
The same is true for your car, as long as the vehicle travels in a straight line as you brake, severely or otherwise, and you have no reason to deviate from a straight path, it matters not if the tires begin to skid, fully lock up.
Since there are surfaces on which it clearly does matter, times when ABS will definitely interfere with achieving the shortest stopping distance, it would probably be better to delay the onset of ABS activation unless the VSC system indicates the vehicle is deviating from the desired path.
Other than the road noise and a cruise control issue (will post), I have no regrets buying this car...it almost makes driving fun again.
MelBC
Another thing I'd like to mention to everyone is -check your tire pressure. My Avalon was delivered with over-inflated tires that made the ride very harsh. Bringing them to spec (32lb) enhanced the ride tremendously.
Bob
You are right, Max. I should have specified active versus passive control.
I agree there are some surfaces where ABS will provide a longer stopping distance, but on a MAJORITY of surfaces, and for a MAJORITY of people, ABS will provide a shorter stopping distance. On most surfaces, once the tires start to skid, stopping distance will increase. Can a person with manual braking outperform ABS? Yes, as long as they can brake to the point of impending skid without exceeding it. The problem is consistently doing that. I will let it go at that; this is an Avalon forum, and maybe there is a better forum to discuss this issue.
Bob
I asked a glass shop your question once and they gave me a supply of finely ground pumice, which when mixed with water to form a paste worked very well. I believe all glass shops use it.
Mike
"Yes, I bought an Avy without undercoating, lot's of road noise, had it undercoated and now it's as quite as a mouse (or save yourself some time and money, there was little difference").
This is my ONLY noteworthy disappointment in the car. By that I mean if a person wanted to look close enough I'm sure they could find fault with, say, a Rolls or Lambo, but I think it might be nitpicking for the most part (as some may view road noise as the same).
I do appreciate your response and a person would have to be pretty gullible to think undercoating doesn't help....but how much?
It wasn't too hard getting the left side connected, but the other side was difficult because when you push the seat back far enough to slide the bar into the receiver in the seat back, you can't see it.
I finally looped a string around the connecting rod and fished the rod up and down while coaxing the seat gently back...until it finally slipped into place.
Without these connectors in place, the back seats would fly forward in the case of a panic stop or crash...except for the seat belts. And the seats would recline, but not return to the upright position.
It was obvious that these seats were not connected when the car left the factory. I'm not upset, since it didn't cause an incident and I was able to fix it myself (barely), but it did surprise me. I just didn't expect that in Toyota's top line car.
Don
Here's the question: Why does it have to play catch up? Instead of loosing the 4 mph why can't it hold a tighter control (I can negotiate the same route without cruise, hold it on 70 and it will not downshift). This is not a major issue but it is annoying and it can't be good for the tranny or mpg.
I plan on talking it to the dealer about this but what I expect from them is "It's the nature of the beast", that's normal for the Toyota and Toyota Avalon. By the way, the Toyota dealer I bought this Avy from on a scale of 1-10 would rate a 2. The only reason I give them a 2 is because they have electricity and an inside bathroom.
Anyone else had a similar cc problem?
I know the best solution to my question is - "You'll have to wait and see" but I hope there are some educated guesses based on past years to help me "predict the future"
Come Sept. of 2006 the '07 Avalon should be popping up at dealerships (so I've heard). Since I am not in a rush to buy, I might as well gut it out and wait - hopefully a few new features might be available and maybe even a 6 speed tranny. Oh yeah, my question....
What will the difference in price be between the very few 2006s and the new 2007s be that are on the lot? Will all of the negotiating tactics and strategies I have been learning be in vain due to the newness of the '07 and the dealerships will be unlikely to budge on price?
I am trying to get a ballpark on '06 prices of the Touring compared to speculation on '07 prices in the first few months of release. My buddy got an '06 Avy for $30,500 OUT THE DOOR. Great deal! What are my chances in the first few months of the '07 being out there?
Thanks in advance.