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Volvo XC90 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • elliott5elliott5 Member Posts: 3
    We bought our CPO 2003 t6 xc90 from a local Volvo dealership. Needless to say, it is in the shop right now on it's 3rd transmission. I only have 76k on the car, the last tranny replaced only 24k ago. Also just replaced the drive shaft. The car is out of warranty, 3 months ago, how convenient, but it's a parts replacement warranty on the tranny because it was just replaced. So no out of pocket for any of the transmissions, but it makes me wonder what keeps making this fail??????
  • alittleboyalittleboy Member Posts: 14
    Has anyone had issue with the cooling hose blowing off and cooking the engine? Very sudden, no warning until we're up in smoke. Result is chernobyl under the bonnet. Quote for repair is close to AUS$10,000 and the warranty I have (not Volvo) will not cover it as they call it 'overheating'. Anybody got any comment on this? I need help and advice as to how I might claim this catastrophe!!
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Sad to say that cooling hoses don't just pop off unless a) they were improperly installed or b) brittle with age
    No warranty will cover hoses anyway, not even the factory one.
  • polar_bearpolar_bear Member Posts: 6
    Hello
    The DVD player is not working in my XC90..
    Any Idea what might be the case. It says DVD is unreadable..
    I have tried several DVD's.
    Is it something the dealer would look at.. and how much do they typically charge.
    Can an audio tech fix these things..
    I live in the Toronto area.
    Thanks
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    The single disc DVD player on my wife's 2007 XC90 malfunctioned while under warranty--wouldn't read discs and would start looking for a disc when none was inserted and the radio selected. The whirring sound was how we detected that the player was not working. If I inserted a disc, it sometimes refused to eject it.

    The dealer ordered a replacement, but when that one was installed it would not work and held the disc the mechanic inserted. The dealer ordered another player and it worked. I suppose it still works, we hardly ever use it. The function screen on the 2nd replacement indicates it can accept multiple discs, but I haven't tried to insert more than one.
  • kylechoffmankylechoffman Member Posts: 79
    34K on my 2006 2.5T AWD XC90. I have babied this thing since I bought it in April 2006. I called the dealer to get pricing on the 37500 Scheduled Maintenance and was quoted $325. This isnt a bank braker but I asked what would be done and was told the following:

    Lube a ton of stuff on the car (What is lubed and is it super important?)
    Oil Change (Express Tire Quoted me 11.99)
    Brake Fluid Exchange (Express Tire quoted me 59.99)
    Engine Air Filter Cartridge Replacement (Is this something I can do myself? I swapped out my filter for a K&N so I wonder if I can change the cartridge)

    I also asked about tire rotation (Express Tire quoted me 75.00 for Oil Change, Tire Rotation and Balance in place of the 11.99 above)

    Now express Tire probably isnt volvo but for a little over 130 bucks (Minus the lubing and Air Cartridge replacement), is it worth it to take it to volvo?

    Thanks in advance for feedback.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what Volvo recommends be done and it'll estimate what the service should cost in your zip code.

    You may decide to do more than what's recommended by Volvo, but remember that most service writers work on commission and they'll try to upsell you on stuff that may not be needed.

    The 37.5k service for my zip should cost $59. :)
  • kylechoffmankylechoffman Member Posts: 79
    Thanks, according to edmunds, mine should run 71 bucks but that doesnt speak to Air Filter Cartridge Replacement and brake fluid replacement, both mentioned in the service manual. http://pa.motorwebs.com/volvo/2006_maint.pdf

    So not sure thats very accurate.

    The labor rate is totally wrong. Their labor rate is way too low, thats what I should get charged for doing it myself.
  • chellgrlchellgrl Member Posts: 2
    I am about to "sign on the dotted line" for 2008 XC90 with 13K miles and in some last minute research, I keep finding people who say or write that the maintenance on this vehicle (and / or Volvo's in general) is higher than some comparative vehicles.

    Will you please share your experience and whether or not there is unusually high maintenance associated with this vehicle?

    THANK YOU!
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    A "comparative" vehicle is an Audi, Bimmer or Benz.
    Not a Honda or a Toyota.
    So, Volvo maintenance isn't more than the Germans, in some cases it is less.
    It is more than the Japanese or domestic brands.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Apparently free downloads of Volvo owner manuals has gone away, unless they are available through The Vine.

    Your link seems to indicate that the brake fluid and air filter are inspect and replace if needed items.

    Labor rates come from the usual flat rate books that most garages use to estimate jobs.

    Chellgrl, the True Cost to Own tool will let you compare maintenance costs against other vehicles.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    I beg to differ. I haven't found my Volvos to be any more expensive than my Hondas. :)

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • bethanybreezebethanybreeze Member Posts: 20
    There was awhile there that I would dispute that Volvo maintenance was comparable to Honda's. However, after just spending roughly $1600 on new brakes and 4 new tires for a less-than-3-year-old Civic with under 35,000 miles, I truly am left wondering just how badly Honda has been hurtin' these days - and how much I got totally screwed over?? Most of this car's mileage has been highway driving. Was I a fool to agree to this? Beats me, but I've got to at least go with 'probably!'.....
  • maybabe80maybabe80 Member Posts: 3
    Help!! My v90's sunroof was left open all night and we experienced lots of rain overnight and wasn't discovered until this morning around 9 a.m. :( I am so upset. I believe while closing it (using the auto-close feature) there was a tiny crack left open (very small when I found this morning, just enough for moisture and condensation to get through). It looks like the moisture was contained to the sides of the car, mainly the upholstery on the door frames and the upholstery on the roof near the sunroof part. I was going to blow-dry the areas to prevent molding issues - what is the best advice? Should I take it somewhere and have it professionally done? I am so scared that molding will occur and I know it needs to be handled ASAP! Thank you, Mandy...
    wanted to add, I've read online about: open a bag of kitty littler on the floor boards, coffee grounds, run AC on full blast, blow dry....
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    A hair dryer could damage materials. If you use it on the headliner, keep your other hand in the air stream to insure that you aren't overheating the material.

    If you have a shop vac, use it to vac the floor carpeting, the seats, and door panels--anything that won't be damaged by strong suction. Don't vac the speakers! If you don't have a shop vac, go to a self-serve car wash which has them.

    If the headliner got wet, then experiment with using a vac with reduced suction. Be careful not to damage the headliner. After you have gotten as much water out as you can with the vac, then use fans to circulate the air in the car.

    Alternatively start the engine and turn on the a/c (not on recirc) and turn the heat and fan to the highest settings. Use all the vents--windshield vents, dash vents, floor vents. Shut the doors and allow to run for a half hour. This will flood the inside of the car with dry, warm air.
  • polar_bearpolar_bear Member Posts: 6
    Hello
    New to owning a Volvo
    I need some Rims for my 2005 XC90. I need 18" Rims for the winter. at the moment I have the alloy rims and I was told to remove them and use the STEEL ones during the winter..
    I am also looking for a place to buy parts from. I need to replace my outer Tire Rod.
    I live in Ontario canada..
    ;) Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Well, I can only share US places, but for wheels/tires, I suggest TireRack.com. I would suggest against 18" personally. Tires for 17" wheels are typically cheaper and there are more options. I don't know why they would have to be steel. It really doesn't matter.

    As for your tie rod, I have always had good experiences with alloemautoparts.com. However, you will need an alignment after replacing a tie rod, so it almost isn't worth doing it yourself.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    I second the opinion that you don't need 18" wheels. Stick with 17".

    Possibly the opinion you got was from someone thinks steel wheels would last longer on salted roads. I doubt Volvo sells steel wheels for the XC90. If you get any aftermarket wheels, be sure they have the correct offset for the XC90. Steel would surely be cheaper.
  • koramickoramic Member Posts: 1
    I have same problem how did you fix?
  • rathi60rathi60 Member Posts: 5
    Quick update I replaced my 4 tires (GY assurance triple tread), break rotors and pads 50000km and at 60000km service the Tire ware was at - 11/32" . 1/32' for 10000km Brake pads frt 9mm and rear 11mm pads left on them. I live in a big city and my driving ratio is 60% city and 40% hwy.Normal ware and tare for a suv of this size :) . Things done under warty so far,
    1. Break booster
    2. frt bearing
    3. drive shafts
    4. windshield washer motor
    5. alarm sensor
  • chellgrlchellgrl Member Posts: 2
    Has anybody had the problem or know why my rims are continually dirty with what looks like black soot? All 4. I just purchased the car in April, it's a 2008 with 13K miles.... Thanks in advance for your input.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Brake dust. Very common.
    When it is time to replace your pads, you can inquire about types that produce less dust.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jondsjonds Member Posts: 6
    Just a warning - other brake pad types may not brake as well. I switched to ceramic pads which I was told would greatly reduce the dust/grime. It did, but the braking was TERRIBLE compared to the standard Volvo brake pads. I finally switched back.

    I'd love to hear how others handle this problem.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Sort of ... "may not" is really the key phrase. I put a set of Hawk HP+ pads on my G35. Not only do they produce less visible dust, but they feel better, too.

    Notice I said "feel." Because stopping power is not the issue. As long as you can invoke the ABS, the brake pads all stop just as effectively as one another.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Notice I said "feel." Because stopping power is not the issue. As long as you can invoke the ABS, the brake pads all stop just as effectively as one another.

    Actually, the right pads CAN make a difference in stopping distance. ABS or no. ABS isn't meant to shorten stopping distance, it is meant to give you steering control in a panic stop.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    ABS kicks in when wheel slip while braking is detected. Wheel slip is caused by a lack of traction by the tires. It has nothing to do with the pads. Different performance pads have been tested numerous times. On their own, they make no real difference in stopping distances.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    I know what ABS does. You mentioned ABS in this instance. However, different kinds of pads CAN make a difference in brake performance, especially when they get hot.
    Different pads handle heat differently. Hot pads don't function as well. This can lead to reduced brake performance and longer stopping distances.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Yes, you're right, brake fade can be an issue. But since we're talking about the XC90 and not a track car, its not something we need to worry about on these vehicles. UNLESS the person does alot of towing through mountains. I could see that being an issue.

    by the way, if anyone is interested in a pretty good article on this sort of thing:
    http://www.modified.com/roadtests/0710_sccp_project_acura_rsx_type_s_brake_test/- - - index.html

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jondsjonds Member Posts: 6
    I'm not talking hypotheticals when I say that my braking performance was terrible with the ceramic pads (from Monroe). I had to press the brake pedal VERY hard to slow the car from highway speeds - to the point of it being dangerous. When I brought it to Volvo they said that the ceramic pads were glazed due to the heat produced in braking, so they didn't grab well. I don't know if this is typical of all ceramic pads, but do know that there was a VERY significant difference in braking with the standard Volvo pads and the ceramic ones I got from Monroe.

    As noted, ABS won't make a difference, since ABS doesn't kick in until you lock up the brakes, which was hard to do in my situation with the ceramic pads.

    But back to the original question - anyone have any other ideas for keeping wheels clean?? ;^)
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Glazed pads is a problem. But, no, it wasn't necessarily due to their composition. They weren't bedded properly. Could happen with any type of brakes.

    There really is no way to keep the wheels clean otherwise. I mean, you brake, it produces dust, it sticks to the wheels. Only solution is less dust. That means don't brake/brake less or less dusty pads. I suppose maybe you could get some sort of insert to install behind the wheel to seal it off from the dust.(??) Seems impractical and probably quite unattractive.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • polar_bearpolar_bear Member Posts: 6
    Where to I get used 17" RIMs in Canada then for my 2005 XC90
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Ebay?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • nicevision2020nicevision2020 Member Posts: 10
    I am hearing some kind of noise coming from the dashboard (like electric short). I am wondering anyone having this trouble at 20k miles.

    Another one is seems like coming from transmission. After raising the speed to 40 - 60 miles and leave the gas pedal. I am hearing some high rpm sound. But i looked the dash board RPM showing less than 2K.

    Thanks in advance
  • nicevision2020nicevision2020 Member Posts: 10
    Is it good to use Synthetic oil in Volvo XC 90 3.2 AWD 2007 model.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    There's nothing wrong with using synthetic, if that's what yer asking.
    My volvo dealer uses a synthetic blend by default and will use full synthetic if requested.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • abvbyndabvbynd Member Posts: 10
    I can't speak to any of the other models except the XC90 V8. We run a full synthetic oil (AMSOIL) that I bring to the service. Recently our "dealer" closed and our mechanic moved to a very reliable independent Volvo service facility. We now get all of our service done at this independent (with the exception of warranty service which still must be done by a dealer). Our original tires (Michellins lasted aver 40k, but I have heard others not lasting that long) I am looking at trying the Goodyear ResponsEdge as the come in the 18" size we need. I don't see the maintenance any higher than comparable (BMW, Mercedes, Acura). I also run extended drain periods on all 3 of our Volvos (1998 S70 T5, 2001 S60 T5 and XC90), on the oil (1 year or 15,000-25,000 miles). This has not affected the warranty at all and have never had any engine problems. Look for a good independent Volvo service facility (check with other Volvo owners in your area for recommendations). They are always somewht cheaper. But any warranty or software changes (usually under warranty you must go to a dealer is what I have been told). We have accumulated nearly 1,000,000 miles on our last 4 volvos (our 1985 was traded in a 500,000. Good luck!
  • abvbyndabvbynd Member Posts: 10
    I have used full synthetic oil in our Volvos since 1985 (760 Turbo that I traded in with 500,000 and never had the engine worked on, did replace the turbo at 265,000). We use AMSOIL (not sure I can mention a brand named here) full synthetic and utilize the extended drain intervals of 1 year or 15,000-25,000 miles). We run this oild in 3 different Volvos (1998 S70 T5 (165,000 miles on it), 2001 S60 T5 (85,000 miles on it) and 2005 XC90 V8 (68,000 miles). Have never had an engine failiure or any engine problems. I bring the oil with me for the change (and if I can't use the extended drain period oil filter) which is only availalable for the time being for the 1998, I just have them put in a new filter at the required interval (5,000 or 7,500) and give them a quart to top off the engine. With nearly 1,000,000 miles total on 4 different Volvo's, I have been doing this since 1985 (at that time Volvo wasn't sure I should run synthetic, but let me anyway). For me a true full synthetic is the only and best way to go for your car to last for many years (we had our 1985 until 1998 and nearly 500,000 miles). Good luck!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Just curious, but how far away is your Volvo dealer now?
  • nicevision2020nicevision2020 Member Posts: 10
    thanks for all your response. i will use synthetic oil.
  • nicevision2020nicevision2020 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks a lot.
  • gumercindogumercindo Member Posts: 20
    This is kind of an old topic, but I wanted to bring it up again. I have a 2006 XC90 (not the v8) with about 30k miles. Starting at about 20k miles, I started getting this musty/BO smell coming out of the vents when the AC unit was turned on (didn't matter if it was AC or heat). Musty smell would run for several mins and then mostly go away. First time I took it to the dealer, they said Volvo has come out with a special disinfectant to get rid of the smell and moisture that's causing the smell. The smell came back and I have to bring in 3-4 more times over a year period (roughly 11k miles).

    Is this an issue relating to the software and afterblow?

    Thanks!
  • kylechoffmankylechoffman Member Posts: 79
    My dealer has an ionizer or deionizer that they hooked the car up to. It was done twice and it hasnt come back. This and the afterblow must be turned on by the dealer. My afterblow runs anytime after my AC is on for a long time. Also i think they put in a charcoal filter.

    If your dealer hasnt solved it, find a new one.
  • gumercindogumercindo Member Posts: 20
    Thanks, Kyle. I am leaning towards going to a new dealer. They confirmed for me that the afterblower was indeed initiated at 22k miles (smell started at around 18-20k). As for the ionizer/deionizer, I haven't heard about that one, but I'll keep it mind next time I bring it in (I'm assuming the smell comes back). Does the ionizer/deionized fix the problem or just masks it for some time until the problem comes back?
  • sundance6sundance6 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2003 T6 xc-90 with 85k miles with a huge list of problems from axles to tie rods, to interior leaks to brake boost to ball joints to AWD filaure. Now it is at the dealer for it's 2nd transmission replacement. I get everything repaired at the dealer as it comes up.

    It's nice that Volvo has offered is to warranty the labor and parts but I am out for 6-8 weeks with the inconvenience and expense of a rental car.

    I would like to continue to drive this car.
    It's a really nice machine when it is working.

    I don't feel safe or that it would make sense financially to keep paying the repair costs. The dealership has been empathetic at the horrible experience I have had. One guy there told me to get rid of it. The problem is I paid $49,000 and have over $10,000 in repairs. Easier said than done.
    Shouldn't a Volvo last more than 85,000 miles, be relaible and give the owner a feeling of safe and sound?

    The Service manager said he would ask about a "trade assist" but it would have to be reasonable for me to consider affording another one.

    My wife has the XC70 which has been great but before I take my loyalty to another car brand that can give me peace of mind and share my bad Volvo experience with every one I know,
    I thought I would throw this situation out there to see if any one has any advice for me?

    Do I stay or do I go?
  • chiefstonerchiefstoner Member Posts: 14
    Still do not know why there has not been a recall or class action suit against Volvo for this vehicle. I had the same problems, and dealership had no support from Volvo.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    I would explore the trade assist option. If you going to buy another car having Volvo kick in some money will make a new Volvo look better than the competition from a financial standpoint.
    Plus, if you do it this month you can get the 5 yr warranty and free 5 yr maintenance.
  • varughesevarughese Member Posts: 3
    1-Clicking sound eminating from driver's seatbelt and at front passengers seat belt even when breathing and the click noice is next to the ears causing headache and to the passengers. very annoying - when had it form new - Volvo Service & Sweden HQ cannont resolveit ,said to consider it as a feature :cry: :lemon: .
  • sundance6sundance6 Member Posts: 6
    "I would explore the trade assist option. If you going to buy another car having Volvo kick in some money will make a new Volvo look better than the competition from a financial standpoint.
    Plus, if you do it this month you can get the 5 yr warranty and free 5 yr maintenance."

    Yes, this sounds enticing assuming I was to buy a new vehicle. The trade value for the XC-90 is shockingly low making the decision to replace the vehicle, including a trade assist versus keeping it at about $30,000.

    Although I understand Volvo does want to make predicitons, it's disappointing not to get any asurance (or at least exteneded waranties) from Volvo about whether I could keep my car with a reasonable level of ongoing maintenance.

    Makes it seem like Volvos are at best, a 5 year vehicle, then sell it before you run into unusally high repair costs.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Makes it seem like Volvos are at best, a 5 year vehicle, then sell it before you run into unusally high repair costs.

    If your concern is out-of-warranty repairs, then at least Volvo is as high as 5 years. Not so with many of its competitors.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • utesutes Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 XC90 and it sat for about 4 weeks. Yesterday, when I drove it again, I started hearing loud metal sounds from the front of the car while going over bumps, then another even louder metal creak while coasting downhill. It scared me to death! Sounded like something was getting ready to break off! Is it the suspension? Or something not greased properly? Or something really bad? We live in Florida. I have had it regularly serviced at dealerships. Car has 65K miles.
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