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Comments
much better stated
I was able to remove the door panel but I cannot figure out how to remove either the actuator or the entire lock assembly. This is in a 2000 TL.
Does anyone know how to do this?
I am trying not to spend $70 on the service manual.
I can get a new actuator from Mag Auto for around $23.
I have searched the internet for a couple of days to no avail. I looked under Acura TL and Honda Accord assuming that they may be the same or very close.
Thanks,
John
Anyway, now the glove box door just drops down with a thud by gravity when I open it. I seem to remember that before I had the work done, the door was damped or sprung somehow so its descent was slower or gradual.
Question: is the glove box door on the TL damped or sprung somehow so its descent is slower or more gradual or is it just a gravity drop? Thanks.
Consequently, the car is 9 years old with 70000 miles and the only thing that has ever done is oil and filter changes. Think of the money I have saved. I put my own brakes on with Brembo rotors and that is the extent of maintemance on the car in 9 years. Believe it or not but the car has never even had the front end aligned and the original tires lasted 67000 miles.
Runs like a top and we are just back from another fast 2400 mile trip where speeds reach almost to the century mark at times. Got 29.3 MPG also. Runs like a top and looks like a showroom car but today we are looking at a black on black new 2008.
BTW, are you stepping on the brake when you do this? The reason I ask is that the sound could be related to the power brake booster.
But more likely, some vacuum actuator related to blending doors in the heater/AC system, something like that.
have gone 32,000 miles.
I would like to buy tires that will give me long tread life. Any suggestions?
rvator 4 mentioned he got 67M out of a set of tires. Does anyone know what they
might be?
I got 40K out of my OEM Bridgestones. I just replaced them with Michelin Pilot Sports which are far superior in ride to the Bridgestones. Supposedly, the Pilot Sport tread life is better, but only time will tell. Also, they have an aggressive tread pattern for rain and snow.
I'm now at a point on wanting to rip out the fuse on the bluetooth unit to see if that fixes my problem.
P.S. I also quit using the bluetooth pairing several years ago but that didn't help.
The reason I ask is I rented a RAV4 recently which has auto-off headlights. The manual was in the car so I flipped through it, and in the section on headlights, it says that if you park the car for a week or more, turn the headlight switch to the "Off" position. So perhaps even if the car has auto-off function for the lights, leaving it "On" may drain the battery?
The dealer just called and said I need new brakes and "rotors" for an extra $800 on top of the $600 for the 45,000 mile service. Any comments on this?
I've also considered just replacing my rims and upgrade with 18" once I've used up the useful life of my existing set of tires. Looking at the Acura website, they only seem to offer 19" rims now, with no mention of the 18" which have been available for years. Am I right to assume that the 18" are no longer being stocked by Acura?
Perhaps it was a "gender rip-off" since I am a single female. I will take your advice and switch to an independant dealer for my service. At least they did not get me for $1300! Thank you again.
$600 for a 45,000 mile service is very high. If you can't get an independent mechanic who works on Acuras, take it over to your friendly Honda dealer and get their price for the same service. Since the TL and the Honda Accord are so similar under the hood, Honda mechanics can do the work at probably half the cost. For example, for a 30,000 service, my Acura dealer wanted $300. Honda did the same service for about $175.
P.S. When you get your car serviced, just have them do what's listed in the owner's manual for that mileage. The dealer tacks on their "recommended" additions, which is unnecessary and just helps your dealer make his boat payment.
Brake pads require no special tools other than a good set of metric sockets and a set of small metric hex wrenches. Rotors will also require a hammer and a small center punch. Buy the 8 metric flat head screws that hold the rotors at a honda dealer because your old ones will probably not come out undamaged. Use the center punch and hammer to remove the screws. Then use the hammer to loosen the rotors. Clean off the spindle well. If you can get a dial indicator to check run-out, fine, but mine were within 0.001 inch as installed.
Again, get someone with experience to help you this first time. I am 72 and have built cars since I was 16, so I do all my own work. Oh, all but oil changes now.
Comments and suggestions please.
Is this call also for 2008 TL? My 2008 TL's wiper does not work properly at the lowest speed (a few times).
Also I recently noticed engine abnormal noise (not pinging) when I accelarate the car.
Another problem is the mileage display. A few times (one for last week) the MPG drops a few readings (e.g. 28 to 23) when I start the car. For instance, I have MPG reading for 29 with 105 miles last Sat. On Sun. morning after I started the car, it drops to 25. I drove 3 miles and restarted the car it drops to 22. Is there any computer programming problem which controls also the engine performance - casue louder engine noise or pinging??
THANKS!!
I'm also not aware of any known computer programming problem that causes unusual engine noise or pinging. Have you recently changed the grade or brand of gasoline?
I am about to bring it in for the second oil change based on the service indicator (24,000 miles) and want to know if anyone else has seen such ridiculous charges added on to an oil change/service.
Mike
When bringing the car in for service, specify what you want done and no more...
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