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Acura TL Maintenance and Repair

19798100102103110

Comments

  • elvis4prezelvis4prez Member Posts: 85
    excellent clarification
    much better stated
  • johnhiiijohnhiii Member Posts: 1
    My front passenger door lock actuator is quickly dying. (makes a grinding sound)
    I was able to remove the door panel but I cannot figure out how to remove either the actuator or the entire lock assembly. This is in a 2000 TL.
    Does anyone know how to do this?
    I am trying not to spend $70 on the service manual.
    I can get a new actuator from Mag Auto for around $23.
    I have searched the internet for a couple of days to no avail. I looked under Acura TL and Honda Accord assuming that they may be the same or very close.

    Thanks,
    John :cry:
  • bartalk3bartalk3 Member Posts: 692
    I have an '06 TL. I had the B12 maintenance done yesterday by my local Honda dealer (no Acura dealer in town). They replaced the interior air filter which is accessed by removing the glove box. I don't know what experience the mechanics have in removing the TL glove box.

    Anyway, now the glove box door just drops down with a thud by gravity when I open it. I seem to remember that before I had the work done, the door was damped or sprung somehow so its descent was slower or gradual.

    Question: is the glove box door on the TL damped or sprung somehow so its descent is slower or more gradual or is it just a gravity drop? Thanks.
  • rvator4rvator4 Member Posts: 84
    I am sure thankful for the service manager at my local Honda dealer that does the maintenance on my Acura. Everytime I took in the book and told him what needed to be done, he would say " forget that stuff. It doesn't need done."
    Consequently, the car is 9 years old with 70000 miles and the only thing that has ever done is oil and filter changes. Think of the money I have saved. I put my own brakes on with Brembo rotors and that is the extent of maintemance on the car in 9 years. Believe it or not but the car has never even had the front end aligned and the original tires lasted 67000 miles.
    Runs like a top and we are just back from another fast 2400 mile trip where speeds reach almost to the century mark at times. Got 29.3 MPG also. Runs like a top and looks like a showroom car but today we are looking at a black on black new 2008.
  • heart2heart2 Member Posts: 38
    Over past 4-5 weeks in my "03 TLS" when starting car will get a short hissing sound when turning the key. Not sure the hissing is on just turning key without starting car or when turned all the way to actually start it. Lasts only a couple of seconds and sounds like it is coming actually from ignition switch where I place the key. Does not occur all the time and never have a problem starting the car. Any ideas or anyone ever have this noise?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a vacuum leak.

    BTW, are you stepping on the brake when you do this? The reason I ask is that the sound could be related to the power brake booster.

    But more likely, some vacuum actuator related to blending doors in the heater/AC system, something like that.
  • herbert11herbert11 Member Posts: 22
    The OEM Bridgestones on my 2006 TL need replacing in the next few weeks, They
    have gone 32,000 miles.

    I would like to buy tires that will give me long tread life. Any suggestions?

    rvator 4 mentioned he got 67M out of a set of tires. Does anyone know what they
    might be?
  • rvator4rvator4 Member Posts: 84
    They were the OEM Michelins. I put on Goodyear V rated as replacements that I liked very much, but this past Saturday bought a new black/black 2008 TL Nav also with Michelins. My granddaughter is now the proud owner of our old 2000 TL Nav with 70,800 miles.
  • mikey38mikey38 Member Posts: 141
    I just went over 40k with the OEM Michelins on my 06...the don't even look that worn yet.
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    The tire selection for the TL is very limited due to its low profile, and high speed rating requirements. Most reputable tire dealers will not allow you to downgrade to lower speed rated tires which tend to have greater tread life.

    I got 40K out of my OEM Bridgestones. I just replaced them with Michelin Pilot Sports which are far superior in ride to the Bridgestones. Supposedly, the Pilot Sport tread life is better, but only time will tell. Also, they have an aggressive tread pattern for rain and snow.
  • rvator4rvator4 Member Posts: 84
    Do you get water draining from the AC when you sit in the drive for a few minutes with the AC on? Sounds like the water that the AC takes from the air is not draining properly. Locate the hose where the AC drains and make sure it is open and drains easily.
  • youssefmoyoussefmo Member Posts: 6
    Did you ever figure out what the problem with your door was? I have a 99 TL and have a similar issue. In my case when I press the remote button non of the door locks actually open. I can hear the acuator trying to work, but doesn't seem to have enough juice to unlock the door! Since non of the locks open I assume the issue may be with a controller unit that controls all the door lock actuators. Hoping you found a solution that may help me out as well. Thanks.
  • bob71bob71 Member Posts: 16
    I had the same problem starting around 20,000 miles. The dealer did all the fixes that you tried (balancing, alignment, etc.) and was unable to fix the problem. The dealer suggessted that I purchase new tires; however, with only 20K miles and plenty of tread left, I told them no and instructed them to balance the tires such that the vibration was minimized. I drove the car for another 10,000 miles and eventually needed new tires. Long story short, after replacing the tires at 30,000 miles, the vibration was gone.
  • gbosilgbosil Member Posts: 88
    CONSTANT PROBLEMS! Just had Drivers Side Mirror replaced due to internal fault. When car is in reverse mirror was "jittering down." Had in twice before that. Told: "Silent Recall By Acura." Replaced it (no charge of course.) Got the car back and next day. While lowering my Driver's side window it sounded like nails on a chalk board. Took the car back in 9/23/08 screamed for awhile and then was told a recall was issued for all 04-08 TL "How convienient!" Driver's side window and passenger side window problems. This car has been a nightmare. Will be trading in on a Lexus GS as soon as the warranty wears out. Acura service is not even close to Lexus. Very unhappy with my first Acura. Fells like I own a Honda Accord. This car has been in the shop just about every other month since I have owned it for squeeks, rattles, parking brake, warped rear rotors, mirrors, windows etc....... :sick: :lemon:
  • tomsharetomshare Member Posts: 6
    6-CD changer for Acura TL 2002 was skipping and is now jammed. What are my options to get CD player working? Recently bought this standard TL model with with 95 K miles and standard audio system. Otherwise car is in excellent condition.
  • go_mdx1go_mdx1 Member Posts: 135
    I've now gone thru 5 batteries on my 04 Acura TL. Acura service says the only thing that could be causing this battery draining problem is the Bluetooth system - but that checks out fine at the dealership. I've even had that unit replaced!

    I'm now at a point on wanting to rip out the fuse on the bluetooth unit to see if that fixes my problem.

    P.S. I also quit using the bluetooth pairing several years ago but that didn't help.
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    Just a thought ---- do you leave your headlights in the "On" position all the time, and let it turn itself off?

    The reason I ask is I rented a RAV4 recently which has auto-off headlights. The manual was in the car so I flipped through it, and in the section on headlights, it says that if you park the car for a week or more, turn the headlight switch to the "Off" position. So perhaps even if the car has auto-off function for the lights, leaving it "On" may drain the battery?
  • silverbullettlsilverbullettl Member Posts: 4
    I just bought a base TL and have noticed that I can feel a very slight hesitation as the transmission downshifts. It happens whether I am braking or coasting. My Nissan Maxima was seamless in its downshift. Has anyone else noticed it? I'm just curious...
  • kkrtrekkkrtrek Member Posts: 51
    I wish I had ONLY a slight hesitation when downshifting. When I leave my house, I make a turn and go down a moderately steep hill. After about 100 feet, the transmission downshifts (from second to first, I think). It is as though someone punched the brake. It doesn't seem like anything is "wrong," but the downshift is VERY apparent. Not quite as noticeable when downshift occurs on the flats. I've never experienced anything quite like it. Hope someone can explain or tell me if this is normal--or not.
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    It's probably the transmission's "grade logic" kicking in. Search this forum for the discussions on that topic. I know that I was jarred the first time it kicked-in on me.
  • lax29lax29 Member Posts: 42
    Was going to ask if it happens on hills only. There is a specific hill that my 04 always does the same thing every time I go down it. It's at a point when I am changing lanes and going down hill at the same time. I alwasys thought it to be the VSA(vehicle stability assist).
  • kkrtrekkkrtrek Member Posts: 51
    On the flats, the downshift is noticeable, but nothing alarming. I just think of the TL as being not a good coaster. It is on the hill--same one, same slope, same place whenever I drive it--that the downshift is very apparent. I'll check out "grade logic," as camon suggested.
  • silverbullettlsilverbullettl Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the replies. I searched the thread and others have noticed it too. I just wanted to confirm that it wasn't something with mine. It does seem that the car doesn't coast very well without wanting to downshift. Oh well... will have to live with it.
  • bartalk3bartalk3 Member Posts: 692
    I'm taking my '06 TL to the dealer to have the recalls done. Now, as I recall, there have been two recalls on the '04-'08 TLs. One, fairly recently, was on the power steering hose. But what was the other one, about a year ago? I got a notice but misplaced it and don't remember what it was. I want to make sure my dealer has it right.
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    The other recall was on the wiper motor. They replaced mine the same time they did the steering hose.
  • acetraceacetrace Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2007 Acura TL S type with 47,500 miles. My driving is mostly freeway.
    The dealer just called and said I need new brakes and "rotors" for an extra $800 on top of the $600 for the 45,000 mile service. Any comments on this?
  • gbosilgbosil Member Posts: 88
    No way do you need Rotors! If so ...the rotors are defective (warped) and should be replaced for the under 50K warranty at no charge. Rotors should only need "cut." I would take it to an independant dealer. I have a 2007 TLS also with 30K on it. What is the $ 600 for ? ?
  • gvbgvb Member Posts: 45
    I have a pretty bad curb scrape on one of my rims. I've looked into having it re-chromed which was a little more than I had anticpated. Does anyone know of a reputable place that would provide this service? I live in the Bay Area.

    I've also considered just replacing my rims and upgrade with 18" once I've used up the useful life of my existing set of tires. Looking at the Acura website, they only seem to offer 19" rims now, with no mention of the 18" which have been available for years. Am I right to assume that the 18" are no longer being stocked by Acura?
  • rvator4rvator4 Member Posts: 84
    I put new brembo rotors on my '00 TL myself and they cost about 250 if I remember right. Easy to change. Have someone help you this time so you can learn to do it. Secondly, those big charges for the scheduled Acura maintenance......I always took mine to a Honda garage for maintenance since it was 30 miles closer. Each time, I would go over the book with the service manager and he would always say, "no, those things are not needed". Other than oil and filter, I don't think I spent another penny on maintenance in 70K miles.
  • acetraceacetrace Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your reply. As I check the bill more carefully I see that $420.50 was labor. The "service" was called the "45,000 mile service" and covered: filter, oil, wash, drain, a-fluid, coolant, washer drain, washer and $45 for my requested wash and wax. I refused the $800 "brake job" but they noted: front brakes 3.8mm or 85% and rear brakes 5.5-6.0mm or 50% worn/need front brakes and most likely rotors/Customer declined repairs at this time"

    Perhaps it was a "gender rip-off" since I am a single female. I will take your advice and switch to an independant dealer for my service. At least they did not get me for $1300! Thank you again.
  • bartalk3bartalk3 Member Posts: 692
    Acetrace:

    $600 for a 45,000 mile service is very high. If you can't get an independent mechanic who works on Acuras, take it over to your friendly Honda dealer and get their price for the same service. Since the TL and the Honda Accord are so similar under the hood, Honda mechanics can do the work at probably half the cost. For example, for a 30,000 service, my Acura dealer wanted $300. Honda did the same service for about $175.

    P.S. When you get your car serviced, just have them do what's listed in the owner's manual for that mileage. The dealer tacks on their "recommended" additions, which is unnecessary and just helps your dealer make his boat payment.
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    Not sure I know the answer, but I can tell you that after I hit a nasty pothole a few years back w/my '05 TL the local tire shop bought me a "reconditioned" wheel. I was nervous at first, but it was $200 instead of $400 (for new), so I did it. Looks and performs great.
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    I too would like to upgrade my brakes to Brembo as I've heard good things about them. I feel the standard '05 TL brakes are insufficient. How difficult is it to replace brakes on this car? And what special tools are needed? Also, is there a manual somewhere that walks a "slightly mechanical" guy through this sort of task? Or do you guys that do this just have grease in your veins?!
  • rvator4rvator4 Member Posts: 84
    First of all, replacing the rotors would probably NOT change the stopping distance of your car under normal circumstances. Brake pads may shorten the distance. If you have never done a brake job, I would recommend finding an experienced friend to help you this time. It is not a difficult job and only takes minutes a wheel, but please get help this first time. I suspect that there are auto books in the library that will walk you through it, but I still recommend an experienced helper this first time.
    Brake pads require no special tools other than a good set of metric sockets and a set of small metric hex wrenches. Rotors will also require a hammer and a small center punch. Buy the 8 metric flat head screws that hold the rotors at a honda dealer because your old ones will probably not come out undamaged. Use the center punch and hammer to remove the screws. Then use the hammer to loosen the rotors. Clean off the spindle well. If you can get a dial indicator to check run-out, fine, but mine were within 0.001 inch as installed.
    Again, get someone with experience to help you this first time. I am 72 and have built cars since I was 16, so I do all my own work. Oh, all but oil changes now.
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    For me, personally, since I don't have the mechanical experience or wherewithal that you do, I wouldn't want to put my life (as well as those of my family) in my hands! :sick:
  • bobhoopsbobhoops Member Posts: 7
    I am about to buy a 2006TL. Does anyone have experience with extended warranties? Is Acura care good? What about warrantydirect.com?
    Comments and suggestions please.
  • charles12charles12 Member Posts: 79
    bodble2,

    Is this call also for 2008 TL? My 2008 TL's wiper does not work properly at the lowest speed (a few times).

    Also I recently noticed engine abnormal noise (not pinging) when I accelarate the car.

    Another problem is the mileage display. A few times (one for last week) the MPG drops a few readings (e.g. 28 to 23) when I start the car. For instance, I have MPG reading for 29 with 105 miles last Sat. On Sun. morning after I started the car, it drops to 25. I drove 3 miles and restarted the car it drops to 22. Is there any computer programming problem which controls also the engine performance - casue louder engine noise or pinging??
  • go_mdx1go_mdx1 Member Posts: 135
    Any one out there with a 2004 TL shop manual who can tell me the fuse location for the bluetooth unit??

    THANKS!!
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    I'm not sure if the recall applies also to the '08's. I actually wasn't even aware of it until I took my car in for regular oil change and the service rep told me about it.

    I'm also not aware of any known computer programming problem that causes unusual engine noise or pinging. Have you recently changed the grade or brand of gasoline?
  • mmcmynemmcmyne Member Posts: 1
    The first time I went to the Acura dealer after buying the car (June of 2007) I had the oil changed based on the service indicator (about 14,000 miles). When I went to pick up the car I noted the dealer had charged me $10.50 for an oil additive (the oil only cost $8 in total!) and they also had a charge for a gasoline additive at $24.50. I suspect they did neither but in any event I protested and they told me they would give me a credit at the next servicing. There is an express statement in the owners manual on oil service hat additives are not necessary so long as you use 5W-20 detergent API certified oil.

    I am about to bring it in for the second oil change based on the service indicator (24,000 miles) and want to know if anyone else has seen such ridiculous charges added on to an oil change/service.

    Mike
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Member Posts: 4,686
    I've not had such charges. But, this is one of the reasons I don't use the dealer for anything other than warranty work... Not to mention how much more expensive dealerships tend to be vs. independent shops...

    When bringing the car in for service, specify what you want done and no more...

    '21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)

  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    I think your dealer is just padding their profit margin by selling you stuff you don't need.
  • kkrtrekkkrtrek Member Posts: 51
    When you take it in, ask for the cost of the oil change. If it's $24.95, or whatever, pay that when you pick it up. Nothing more. Trying to get you to pay for an "additive" you neither requested nor wanted is beyond unscrupulous. It's extortion--or fraud--or something. Don't pay it.
  • gbosilgbosil Member Posts: 88
    I have a 2007 TLS and when I start it up for the first time "cold engine" the car idols very rough like it's going to konk out. After the car warms up it's fine. I have owned numerous cars in my lifetime and not one did this? All will idol high and then kick down to about 800-900 RPM. Anybody experience this?
  • ilikecars23ilikecars23 Member Posts: 28
    I have a 04 TL that does the same thing at cold start up. It seems to stumble a bit but it doesnt get close to stalling, but its very noticable on cold start ups. Does anyone know what this may be?
  • rvator4rvator4 Member Posts: 84
    You are probably too young to remember carburetors and their problems with cold starts and fast idle. Modern day auto computers have eliminated the fast idle completely, providing the correct mixture for any condition. If you are having a rough condition, you must have a faulty sensor or dirt in the system somewhere. I would try a different gas (high test for a few weeks and if that doesn't help, a cleaner of some kind (although try at your own risk). Some types of gasoline used to advertise gas that included a cleaner. Other than that, it will require a shop with an analysis system.
  • gbosilgbosil Member Posts: 88
    **BEWARE** Just got a call from the dealer after completing my inspection. 31,xxx miles on the car. Mind you I drive mostly highway. I know I needed front pads "BREMBO" but he then proceeded to tell me that I also needed to replace the front rotors too! He said they couldn't be cut and they were beyond the maximum allowed. $ 645.00 is what he quoted just for a front brake job! I responded with ARE YOU NUTS! At first he didn't agree with me. I have owed numerous cars and never had to replace the rotors just cut them. I asked him "do you think I am stupid?" The Service Manager agreed and they are going to replace the front rotors "free of charge." Watch out Acura's sales are down so they are trying to make it up in service department. Anybody else get this BS from the dealership lately? :mad:
  • sueming51sueming51 Member Posts: 1
    Same thing happen to me the other day. After coming back from work, went inside the house and came out few minutes later, my car wouldn't start. I called roadside assistance, they came quickly. The guy told me that this was his 2nd time that day for this same problem. He jumped start my car but warned me that I may need my car jumped again next morning. It didn't last for next morning. Almost as soon as he left, the car wouldn't start again. I called dealer the next morning, they told me to bring the car in. Called AAA to jump the car and drove to dealer. They replaced the battery under warranty. The car has 35,000 miles on it. My co-worker told me that he had the same problem with his TXS last year.
  • bdemarrbdemarr Member Posts: 25
    This has been a well documented problem with TL's. I have an '04 and my battery went dead in about 18 months. Unfortunately I was not near a dealer, so I put a WalMart battery in it for $65 and no problems since.
  • st1300ldrst1300ldr Member Posts: 2
    rvator4, Please elaborate on the center punch method of removing those 2 screws in each rotor. I've tried the impact driver with no success. I'm just about to get out the DRILL! (2002 TL-S)
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