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Toyota Tundra: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • o3tundrao3tundra Member Posts: 1
    Every Tundra has the same problem.. I took my truck into Toyota to complain about the windows rattling when they're rolled partially down and you're driving over small bumps.. I found out that this was a problem with all Tundras including the new 2004 models.. Some of their vehicles (Camry)also have the same problem.. I hope Toyota fixes this problem in the future because if it wasn't for this, This would be the perfect truck..
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    When the temperature is 20 degrees or lower, my engine (8 cylinder)sounds loud like a diesel engine when started until it's warm. Is this common for Tundra trucks?
  • newellnewell Member Posts: 15
    HEY GUYS! Toyota finially has a TSB for the squeaks in 2004/2005 Tundras. See TSB SU003-04 dated 12/24/2004. Problem is with upper shock mount systems; field fix kit has been developed. Looking forward to my next service visit!! I knew it wasn't in my mind!!
  • eaglefaneaglefan Member Posts: 1
    I've got the same engine noise in cold weather; worse when it's really cold. This is definitely valve tap or lifter tap in my opinion - that's why I haven't had it checked out. I had a 99 GMC Sierra that also tapped but the problem continued (but lessened) as the engine warmed up. I plan on changing oil types to see the affect - right now I'm using Mobile 1 5/30. Let me know if anyone figures this out.
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    I have been to the dealer twice, and the service manager is blaming my after-market camper shell for the squeak/churb noise coming from my rear suspension. I told him that I will remove the camper shell to prove that it's not the cause. Thanks for the info re the Service Bulletin. It may save me the hassle of removing my shell.
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    What has the dealer said about this? I have a 7 year warranty on my 7 month old Tundra, so I'm not too concerned, but the noise is annoying. I own 3 other Toyota cars, and none of them have this problem during cold weather.
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    Where can I obtain a copy of this Service Bulletin? Can you e-mail me one?
  • tundranatortundranator Member Posts: 14
    I have the same prob also could someone please also e-mail me. Thanks
  • tundranatortundranator Member Posts: 14
    sorry to hear about that they gave me all new brakes,calapers,turned drums,rotors,backing plates hardware the service manager told me it was a few grand worth of parts and labor! They are not calling it a recall though! Got it done at about 33,000 and now at just about 60,000 brakes are starting to have that catch and release feeling when breaking AGAIN!! I think I am going to try to go with ceramic rotors maybe they will not have same prob!!
  • tundranatortundranator Member Posts: 14
    Toyota replaced my belt and told me there was an upgrade on the tensioner if this helps anyone! I have a K&N air filter in and it has a hissing sound out side of the truck and also inside the cab when the tranny shifts into gears. So the tech thought is was the belt and replaced it and also gave me the upgrade!
  • tnpdadtnpdad Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2001 Tundra SR5 with 41,000 miles. The first Oxygen sensor went bad at 35,000 miles and was replaced under warranty (3 year/36,000 miles). The check engine light recently came on and the Toyota dealer told me it was another O2 sensor but now OUT of warranty. Wanted $252 plus labor.

      I called Toyota North America and was told that there is an "Enhanced Warranty" on the O2 sensors, good for 7 years or 90,000 miles. I brought this to the dealers attention ("gee, we didn't know about it"), and they are now ordering the parts.

    So be aware of this and if you have paid for oxygen sensors, go back and demand a refund.
  • mzopinonatedmzopinonated Member Posts: 24
    Just be careful the "enhanced warranty" only covers 2 of the 4 O2 sensors. If you get lucky the one's under the warranty get covered if the other two go out you have to pay for them.
  • gprgpr Member Posts: 1
    those black caps are the covering for the coils that generate the high voltage. in other words, there are individual coils for each plug on newer engines. Plug wires and distributors are becoming a thing of the past (good thing). Remove those caps and you will expose the spark plugs.
  • sonnyboysonnyboy Member Posts: 6
    Hey any luck on finding out any info on the Tundra cabin filters?
  • sonnyboysonnyboy Member Posts: 6
    Anyone find a way to disable the daytiime running lights? How about fixing the fog lights so they stay on along with the high beams? How do I change the fog light? Any suggestions on higher wattage bulbs for the head or fog lights?
  • sonyabysssonyabyss Member Posts: 2
    i think the tundras breaks are great... it out stops most of my friends sports cars. it just must be your trucks specific peve=P
  • sonyabysssonyabyss Member Posts: 2
    humm... ive never really had knocking sounds comming from my tundra.. but then again i never put any thing less than super gasoline in it eather.... but the rear end sqeaking is normal.. infact test drive a land rover fresh off the show room floor and take it over a curb or somthing and listin for the rather loud sqeaking sounds that come from the rear end. nothing out of the normal =P
  • maxtorquemaxtorque Member Posts: 3
    I have been experiencing a squeak/chirp from the bed area for some time. Not when I run over any serious bumps or potholes, but more on uneven road surfaces es. This seems to cause the bed to shimmy as opposed to bouncing.

    Is this the noise you are referring to?
  • 2000limited2000limited Member Posts: 5
    I'm told the 2000's were supplied with rotors which were too thin. Mine is a 2000, and per a tsb I had the rear drums replaced, calipers, etc., and front rotors machined at 22,144 miles. The problem came back. Had rears turned at 37,706 and rotors replaced at 37,900 with new, improved rotors at no charge. I was out of warranty, but all past problems were well documented. I changed dealers after giving up on service from one, got better service and the service manager talked to the dr who personally delivered the rotors on his next visit to the dealership. My truck has been excellent with exception of the O2 sensors which were both replaced twice. The only way to cure your brake problem is to replace the rotors regardless of what the dealer tells you that turning them will do the trick. Once they heat, cool, warp, you have an continuing problem which only becomes worse after every turning.
  • 2000limited2000limited Member Posts: 5
    I've got a 2000 Limited 4wd with 40,000 miles. Nowhere in the owners' manual does it give recommended fluid changes unless it's used severely or used a lot for towing. What is the recommended change interval? I tow a 1700 pound boat 50 miles twice a year, the rest of time unloaded.

     

    I'm due for spark plugs too, and want to know why non-platinums were used, and if there's any problem with installing platinum plugs.
  • tundranatortundranator Member Posts: 14
    Yes I've been to discount,auto zone contacted toyota when they told me (discount,auto zone) it would have to be special ordered even had my local machinac check toyota and they said the same thing.Toyota states that all of there trucks do not have them. You can get a AC service my local mechanic told me it is about $60 for him to do it they use this stuff called freshly fresh? and it foams up elimates the moldy and smoke smell if your a smoker. they squirt it in down by the heater core where the intake is for the ac. They say it is the stuff that is used when trying to sell a used car that has been smoked in to mask the odor. It leaves the car smelling great and gets rid of all the mold and stuff. If your a smoker it is recommended to to it about every 20,000 to 30,000 miles. Hope this helps
  • tundranatortundranator Member Posts: 14
    I have a 02 with about 60,000 the listing at any auto parts store has listings for platinums, I opted to go for the ones with 4 prongs the best ones they sell for my truck from bosh I put them in at 54,000 when I did my oil change and they work well. I notice less fuel comp. more mileage and also the truck got a little more horse power to it. They were about $6 and change but you end up saving more at the pump in the long run.
  • tundranatortundranator Member Posts: 14
    My oxygen sensors went out also one at about 40,000 and then the other on the other side. clearwater toyota gave them to me under my ext warranty,but a couple months later I received a letter in the mail stating that if I purchased the oxy sensor that they were issuing refunds. The cause of the oxy sensors going out the service manager told me is because when they placed them in the design of the truck they are to close to the manifold and they end up burning up! The upgraded ones should last he states past another 40,000 miles
  • newellnewell Member Posts: 15
    YES!! Been to dealer 4 times in ten months. there's a fix ; mention to dealer TSB: Rear Shock Squeak. There's a special gasket washer spacer to be installed. GOOD Luck.

     

                     Mark/Cape Cod
  • newellnewell Member Posts: 15
    Hey! If the the squeaks/chirps are normal for you, Good luck.
  • 44jdub44jdub Member Posts: 3
    If ANYONE doubts the problem with toyota tundra brakes don't take my word for it(been back 9 times-replaced brakes several times) just do "RECALL TOYOTA TUNDRA BRAKES" & take a snack , because your going to be reading for a while-you may even want to take a pillow along!! My dealer didn't even know how to tell if the problem was front or back !!!(clue: run the truck up to 50 mph slowly apply the E-brake & if it doesn't vibrate , its the front brakes!!! DUH & they had never heard of this???
  • 44jdub44jdub Member Posts: 3
    It is a scam as you suspect. They don't know how to fix the problem which is defective front brakes.Most dealers have techs with wall certificates & nothing to back it up!!Like Experience!! Checkout on search "recall toyota tundra brakes" interesting!! join the class action suit.
  • 44jdub44jdub Member Posts: 3
    DUDE, You definately are the exception!! I don't even have time to read the thousands of tundra complaints(especially front brakes)hope your luck keeps up,just in case maybe start a tundra savings fund. I WAS a loyal toyota guy for many years (11-total) & NO problems till they started assembly in USA.
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    That sound occurs under conditions that you described. There is supposed to be Service Bulletin abd a field kit to repair this. See question #55. I still need a copy of the service bulletin.
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    I just got home from the local Toyota dealer who checked their computer and verified the service bulletin TSB SU0003-04 dated 12/24/04. The service manager was surprised how fast this got on the internet as it just crossed his desk a few days ago. This was the same service manager who blamed the "chirp" on my camper shell a few weeks ago. The dealer ordered the repair parts (field fix kit) and will install the parts (a 2-hour job) at no charge as a warranty issue. Hope that the frustrated owners of Tundra model years 2002-2005 are similarly compensated.
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    I just met with the service manager at a local Toyota dealer, and he said the loud engine noise during extreme cold weather was from the pistons. He indicated that Toyota is aware of the noise, but has no way of correcting this complaint. In the future, Toyota is considering coating the pistons to reduce the noise. He assured me that no damage to the engine would occur from this issue. Since I have a full 7-year warranty, time will tell if he's telling the truth.
  • newellnewell Member Posts: 15
    I have same conditiom @ startup here on Cape Cod, until engine is warm.
  • texastonytexastony Member Posts: 4
    Yes, there were problems with the O2 Sensors but Toyota has extended their warranty to 90K miles. As far as brakes; I couldn't tell ya, never had a problem with them. BTW, mine is a 2000 model with 68,000 mile
  • bigerebigere Member Posts: 1
    I have a new 2004 Tundra (new for me). When I am at speeds below 20 MPH, the transmission surges in to gear ! At normal speeds above 20 MPH, It's okay. It seems worse on windy days. Is this normal?
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    Was the repair made and did it work? The Service Manager at my dealer today claims the repair kit has been revised since 12/24/04 and is now 4 metal lock nuts. Seems like metal against metal will not resolve the problem. I am checking with another dealer.
  • funpilotfunpilot Member Posts: 66
    I am looking to purchase a used 2004 Tundra SR5 4x4 with very low mileage...Are the problems regarding the brakes across the board and could effect this truck? The issue raised by Bigere on the transmission, are others experiencing this? Basically, I am wondering if getting this truck is a mistake or should I get the new Hummer 3 or a used Sequoia for a fe more dollars?
  • newellnewell Member Posts: 15
    You are correct; there is an TSB Revision Notice 1/19/2005 for Rear Shock Squeak: Step 2 graphic has been clarified to show that cushions (washers) are of equal size. Repair field kit and part # is same!! Have Service manager check his "own" company TSB! Seems to have improved my ride! Good Luck.

     

           Mark/Cape Cod
  • coastie1coastie1 Member Posts: 20
    I am looking at puurchasing a 2005 Tundra access cab. This is my 1st Toyota truck purchase. Are ther any major issues/things to be aware of. I always have a f-150. Thanks for any imput.
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    Here's what another Toyota Service Manager has to say about the fix, "TSB SU003-04 involves turning over an existing shock bushing retainer and installing two new shock nuts. The retainer was installed incorrectly at the factory. The procedure is very simple - we have performed it several times. 30 minutes is adequate to do the job. This is the only current TSB for the shock squeak on 2004 Tundras."
  • sammy4sammy4 Member Posts: 2
    Mine does the same thing!

    I have just under 40,000 miles on it. I think it has something to do with the transmission electronics, specifcally the overdrive. I can make it happen any time i want by turning off the overdrive, then switching it back on. The next time I stop the endine dies as if the torque convertor is locked and doesn't disengage.
  • sammy4sammy4 Member Posts: 2
    I took it to the dealer today, I told them it was probably a sensor or switch or solenoid that kept the torque convertor from disengaging.

     They said that they don't work on components like that, they would just replace the whole transmission.

    I said, how much is that gonna cost? they said it was covered under the warranty (that is already expired), maybe they know something i don't.

    Sounds like an unofficial recall.

    I don't care, I'm getting a brand new transmission out of it.
  • curlyhirocurlyhiro Member Posts: 1
    I just got sick and tired of taking my truck back to the dealer for brakes. I finally had the front rotors turned again and install CarbonMetallic pad from "Performance Friction" and cured my brake problem. I now haul a camper and tow my 15ft boat behind me and have no brake problem. I've put on 50,000 miles with this set up and no rotor shake and pad's still look good. Very little dust also. About the transmission. I tried to talk to Toyota since I was a transmission rebuilder and told them about the slip into third gear under throttle and a severe bad you got which is very hard on all the bearing inside and also about the coasting problem you get going around a corner slow. The vehicle would go back into first gear and the overrun clutch would coast and slam back into gear when you applies throttle. They though I was some kind of dope. These so called engineers really don't know what the real world is like and that's why they have so many design changes as the public finds these faults. You think they would listen sometimes. You can't do anything about the transmission because is electronic but, what you can do is ease back into the throttle when you feel that coast feeling and also back off the throttle when going into third gear under heavy throttle. This will ease the hard shift into third. I'm going to go into my transmission one day the replace the third accumulator spring and drill out the third clutch apply hole. You know us mehanic's, we always wait til the last minute.
  • oagroagr Member Posts: 2
    Hey all, I've got a 2005 Dbl Cab SR5 4x4, and I love it. I love off-roading for it, I've got a great pic of me pulling my friends jeep out of the mud... however, that mud trip required a trip to the dealership.

    Beware, that alternator is mounted down low, protected by the skid plate, but not from any mud that may get splashed up there and right into the brushes... note to self, mud makes a better insulator than conductor!
  • idahoronidahoron Member Posts: 18
    I just got a 05 double cab. I am wondering about your mudding. were you realy throwing the mud with the tires or were you plowing into the deep holes? I do a LOT of mud driving. I don't drive real fast but a lot of my winter is driving in 4 to 8 inches of mud. I am a little concerned with you post. Ron
  • archer55archer55 Member Posts: 1
    I also have an 04 tundra, when it is started then put in gear is when it sounds just like a diesel. It lasts only a couple of minutes, but I believe I can hear it slightly even when it is warm
    It started after it had over 10K miles on it. I took it to my local dealer and they said it was normal, and would not hurt longevity. Time will tell.
  • jossjoss Member Posts: 2
    Our 2004 Tundra (V6) is the one of the roughest riding pickups I have been in. I have ridden in 2 V8 that were almost as smooth as a car. Why is mine so rough? What's the ride like for you other V6 owners. I am extremely dissatisfied with mine!
    It is not a smooth ride on a smooth street, and heaven help if it is a rough one!
    thanks for any help/suggestions!
  • tundradudetundradude Member Posts: 588
    I currently own a 02 V8, but I had a 00 V6. Both have a carlike ride. You may want to get that suspension checked out.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Maybe you have already checked you tire PSI - but that is one thing that can cause a ruff ride.
  • govner22govner22 Member Posts: 1
    Did you change your rotors or just your pads? I'm thinking about the Brembo rotors to stop the warping.
  • dryodt123dryodt123 Member Posts: 4
    Coastie1,

    I have been an exclusive Toyota Driver for the last 25 Years. have had nothing but exceptional service from them. I have owned 77 Celicas and 81-83 long bed 4x4's and the first 4runners and I currently run a 90 4runner with 270,000 miles on it. Clutch gave out at 226,000 Ac went at 166,000 but I suspect the dealer screwed it up whilst relacing head gaskets that were prone to failing mine never did. I have been looking at the f-150 but the forum has scared me off I am afraid. I have been looking long and hard at the Sequoia as well. I, like you, am chasing the used ones. My suggestion is go for the Toyota's .My son and I travel and shoot compititions. Seems they (Sequoia) have some piddly issues when you chase the forum down.
    I will drive the Chevy's as well but I bet it'll be Toyota again.
This discussion has been closed.