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Comments
I was on my way home from a 2 hour trip down south when the warning light "CHECK COOLANT LEVEL," came on. the temperature gauge moved close to the red zone on the temperature indicator and then moved back down. I stopped the car and waited for the engine to cool down to check the coolant. About two hours later, a road ranger came and asked if I needed any help. He poured some coolant in, but the coolant just went straight down the pavement because the radiator was cracked unbeknownst to me. I had the car towed in. The service writer did inform me that there was possible engine damage and the mechanics would have to run a few tests to make sure. 2 days later, I came to pick up the car and drove to work. Everything seemed fine. 2 days later, i had to take a long trip down south. When I turned the car on, it vibrated a little bit and the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" and "CHECK COOLANT LEVEL" went on. I took the car back to the dealership. The mechanics took the car and replaced the coolant sensor, electric fan and a few other components. The service advisor informed me that the lights may come on again but he told me not to worry. He told me I just needed to come back for the spark plug which caused some misfires in the engine which in turn caused the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" to come on. He assured me that it was not dangerous to drive at all. I took the car on that long trip. When I got back and as soon as I pulled into my drive way, the lights came on and when I opened the hood there was some hissing sound like something boiling in the engine. I had the car towed in again, but this time I asked if I could take it to another location (same dealership though). I was getting frustrated and wanted a second opinion from a more competent and knowledgeable mechanic They were okay with that. That same day, one of the mechanics called me and informed me that the head gasket was blown and there possible engine damage and they would have to take the engine apart to make sure. A few days later, one of the mechanics called me and informed me that the damage to the engine was just too severe to fix it. The heads and the block are warped. There's no other option but to replace the engine. The mechanic said that he had never seen the block got warped before. My questions are: Is it possible for the engine to sustain that much damage from the initial exposure to the heat? Has anyone else encountered this problem before? Based on my research, I shouldn't have driven the car when it got the blown head gasket. I did write a letter to BMWNA explaining my side of the story, but the representative that I contacted just brushed me off. I asked if I could speak to the regional rep directly, first she said she didn't have the number. Later on, she simply informed me that, "We can't share that information with you. You can speak to the service manager." That was not very pleasant from my end. I hope that I could get some inputs from here. Thanks in advance!
Taichi2
Yes, once an engine overheats all kinds of mayhem can occur, quickly. While you may have helped to cause the damage, you also may not have---- a cracked radiator empties coolant pretty fast. Also, who's to say if it was the chicken or the egg that came first? Perhaps a defective head gasket or warped head caused the engine to superheat the coolant and burst the radiator? I have no idea.
You need to fight for this one if you feel the decision is not just. $16K ain't pocket change. Get an attorney. Maybe a settlement can be reached.
Thanks
Buckeye Fan
Taichi
Thanks
Thanks
vibration. Also, there is another rumbling sound just under the front seats and an
actual rumble near the backseat on the right side, but it is mild and it lags power
when gas is pressed.
During acceleration, it seems the left side picks up the power and there is no
sound from the left, but by the right rear tire, it feels like the differential isn't
producing enough power to the right side since I have to cut the wheel left to
maintain driving straight. Is this just an axle or do I need a new differential? Or
should I change out the driveshaft (since it sounds like its coming from just
underneath the driver's seat)? It was in an accident, but it wasn't a major one and
the car is structurally fine.
I found on the left side 2 plastic, large diameter hoses and 1 on the right side,
under the front bumper which are cut. Does anyone know where these hoses go
to and what do they do? I also found what looks to be a small pump and part of
the hoses connected to it in my trunk and don't know what that is. Is it the wiper
motor for the headlight/ foglights? When I activate the windshield wipers, there is littlewater that sprays out of the hood sprayers, none out of the headlight or foglight wipers and there's alot of water that comes out from under the hood.
When I activate the turn signals, is the side reflectors on the front fender and rear quarter panel supposed to blink or is this too old a model for it to have side blinkers? How do I fix this? Why didn't my diagnostic computer tell me about this?
Also, does anyone know how to remove the rear window shade and brake light
indicator from the back window? I have been trying to fix the window shade and
replace the red glass on the indicator, but it doesn't seem that I have access to
remove those panels.
And lastly, where is the switch to activate the driver or passenger side vanity mirror
lights? I have been trying to activate them, but I can't find the switches. As for the driver seat memory control, how do I program my memory selections in? Every time I try, they just go into some other selection. Any service information you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
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Share your vehicle reviews
Are you aware of major problems concerning bushings (leaks) and rear main
seal (leaks)? I just purchased this vehicle, a CPO with only 45k but am somewhat
disappointed with these leaks. Otherwise, I like the power, comfort, responsiveness, safety features, and looks. My 528i ('97) had 105,000k when
traded in on this 740il and I feel secure with the warranty. So, two trips to the
dealer in 30 days is not good. Are leaks a major concern with this vehicle?
vehicle. The cooling fan and steering center link were also replaced before my
purchase. What are some other potential problems down the road on this car?
-How reliable is the '02 745Li ?
-What are the most common problems with this car?
-Which ones put the car out of commission for a few days and how often do they occur?
-If you had your money back would you buy it again?
Thanks for your input in advance.
HELP ???
Thanks
Fluid has been verfied . Looking for thoughts to follw-up that may assist. BMW want to replace....
Service company indicates it somewhat normal. Everyone has different thoughts.
Any suggestions,
So to summarize:
1. Does BMW authorize turning rotors at al for your model?
2. Are your rotor surfaces in pristine condition or are they grooved or smooth but worn too thin?
thanks
I'd have to do some research, as I'm not sure how a 730i differs, having never seen one.
I returned to my UK 1997 740i today to find that I couldn't open the central locking with the remote. No problem, I thought, it's probably the battery in the key fob, so I will just open the door manually. However, no dice, the key doesn't open the drivers door, the lock just turns, although the boot will open. There seems to be power in the engine battery, but I'm still locked out ! Does anyone perhaps have anything to suggest ?
Thanks in advance
rog1111
thx
First of all I want to say that this is one of the most informative bmw web-forums I have ever across with oddles of experiences and anectodes shared by various bmw vehicle owners. I just want to say keep up the good work
I am a proud owner of a 750iL 98, with about 37K miles, yes I know thats ultra low but I drive it really less, its practically brand new. Never driven in winter, maybe I'll break that record this year who knows
Anyways I live here in Toronto and its been really hot lately these past couple of days... and whenever I go for refueling....its a mission in a half to fill up the gas-tank. ....I mean as soon as I put the noozle in the pump clicks in the first 2 seconds! :mad: I gently pull it out so only the top portion of the nozzle is submerged in the fuel tank ....again same thing the pump clicks....and it keeps doing it through out .....its sooooooooo embarassing driving a 7 series benchmark and this sort of thing happening everytime I go fill up on gas. I get all service done from the dealer the service rep said its normal and that you should pull the nozzle out gently and pump in that way....but hey thats what I've been doing.....as mentioned earlier....
I dont know what to do.....they said everything is normal....the mechanic voluntarily agreed to come with me and show me at the gas station how to do it...but I havent gotten the chance to meet up with him yet...however I want to know is there any cure for this?
is this normal?
am I in a very hefty expense?
Can I use one of those fuel additives and put it in next time I fill-up to get rid of the air pockets?
Sorry about the long post....please I need someone's opinion and advice as to what I should do... I mean I love the car its in immaculate condition and still has the new car leather smell in it....even after 7 years! and I hope there is a practical easy solution to this problem
Kind Regards
Thanks
I have a question: My 1994 740IL, has a vibration when I reach the speeds of 52 - 55 mph, it is in the front. I replaced the original rims with rims from a 5 series that were alloy, same vibration, then I replaced the rims with chrome 17" mags. It didn't vibrate as much, but still there is vibration at the posted mph I mentioned. Any thoughts guys?
I have been there in your boat with my Lexus GS300. First-off whats the mileage on the car? Are you the first owner of the car, do you have service records on the car?
Have your brakes been recently serviced?
Are your tires new?
Do they run true, i.e. do they have flat spots?
Did you get the front control arm bushings checked? There is a possibility they have worn out considering its an 11 year old car.
Are rims ok, you mentioned you only changed the front end rims....maybe the back rims are bent which is causing the vibration.
Did you use roadforce for wheel balancing?
Alignment could be out which could cause irregular wear patterns on tires and eventually cause them to vibrate.
Many factors could lead up to the vibration you are talking about at the speed mentioned....please be more specific as to where exactly is the vibration felt from.
Hope this helps
Kind Regards
Thanks in advance, if there is such a place.
You know, if you are going to DIY, there is nothing like a paper workshop manual right there in front of you. Even if you aren't doing the repair, you can look things up and even take the manual to the dealer to show him what you are talking about.
Thanks.
Problem 1: air conditioning stops working--only blows warm air when the car is idling--otherwise ac works fine.
Problem 2: Digital Sound Processing Display goes out when temperature outside is 85 or above. When car cools off the Digital Sound Processing Display returns.
Many thanks.
Hope you can help as the wife is a getting a bit miffed having to climb in through the window all the time!!!
1. Can anyone tell me if there is any harm in burning 89-octane in a '95 7-series? My BMW mechanic says that's what he burns in his. He said "That's why they have knock sensors. The computer detects any knock due to octane and makes the appropriate adjustments to timing, etc. Can 89 really have a noticable effect on fuel injectors?
2. Does anyone know of a place to purchase a repair manual for this car? I have seen them for 3- & 5-series...and for earlier 7-series (like Haynes, e.g.).
3. I am the 2nd owner of this car. Bought it at 63,000 miles. It was pristine. Only problem was that I've had a shimmy since day one. The BMW shop that sold it too me went over the front end (and I have since had several other mechanics do so) and couldn't find anything they could attribute this to. He insisted that it was the tires. So I bought a new set of Dunlop A2 Sports...same problem. He then said "Oh, you HAVE to run Michelins on this car". So I next bought a set of MXV4s. Seemed fine for a short while, then back to shimmy (can feel it in floor board and very prominent in steering wheel). I've replace the rotors and brake pads. Any thoughts?
Many Thanks
Just wanted to know if anyone ha the same problem.
All responses are welcome.
Thanks
I have the same vibration problem and have the same tires as you do on my
2001 740il. Having talked to BMW techs and gone to the website tirerack.com,
I believe that Michelin Pilots are the best tires for the 7 series. When my MXV wear down, I will replace them with Pilots. Also, are your bushings leaking? That
may be a factor in the shimmy. Air pressure. I run 33 psi in the front and 35 in
the rears. Alignment. Costly and be sure that BMW techs use the weights in the
care for the proper alignment. Good luck.