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Comments
It seems it makes sense as I have been told the diag showed there was too poor or too rich a fuel/air mix in some cylinders. I will check when I am back in France ( the car is there)
The car is running OK. It is regrettable the BMW electrics are so fragile. I sometimes have some error messages saying the rear plate lights are not working (they are) or the coolant level to be checked (even just after a BMW-service).
I regret they don't take electrics reliability courses at Toyota's. They wouldn't have trashed the 2002 model this way.
(sight)
Sometimes the engine light is activated by minor things like a loose gas cap.
Even if you read the codes the computer scanning tool doesn't tell you the defective component, only the circuit or system that is affected. So even if the dealer reads a code and is says "check the so and so", you still don't know exactly what the problem is. No car computer can do that (yet).
Okay, let's go from the most obvious to the least obvious.
If overheat is FAST overheat, 10-15 minutes off idle:
1. Thermostat (remove and test_
2. Electric cooling fan (observe)
3. head gasket, cracked head (test)
If overheat is SLOW overheat, at highway speeds or only after a while
1. clogged radiator (flow test)
2. contaminated transmission cooler (observe)
3. not shifting into high gear (observe)
4. dragging brakes (test on lift)
5. excessive lean mixture, vacuum leaks (test on machine)
thanks
mike :sick:
i checked for water in oil, no luck there. i bled the system as well. motor is fine for about 5-10 minutes and then it overheats. it sounds like the water is boiling in the motor. like i said, first time with bmw. how can i tell if gasket is blown or head is cracked without taking it to a shop. how hard is the gasket to change?
thanks
thnaks
http://www.data.bmrparts.com/bmwparts/343.html
So you'll need a new head or head gasket, a repair manual, an top head gasket set. I'd take a rough guess that on your own it would cost you maybe $1,000 and at a shop $2,000 or so. Even if it's just the gasket you'd want to have the head shipped out and checked and cleaned up at the machine shop.
Given that these cars aren't worth very much, you may need to consider if it's worth it, after you've determined the problem.
Pressurize the cooling system and then remove a spark plug and look for water on it..might be tough to remove all of them, put it's one way to know.
Test coolant for combustion gases
Sometimes with engine running you can see combustion bubbles in coolant by looking into radiator
Check for water in oil, or oil in water
oil change is 20,0000, that seems like a long time before
an oil change. Any thoughts would be appreciated?
All BMWs dynamically calculate the service interval based on the driver's driving habits and style. Some people will get as low as 10k between service and some as much as 25k. Most people get right around 15k.
If you want to keep in in there that long, I'd definitely do an oil analysis at 10K.
You lose that engine, you've lost the entire car.
As far as your question of "what's the point of such a long interval", my response is "what's the point of short intervals like every 3000 miles?" I would rather not have to deal with 4-5 oil changes per year. Just doing it once per year is a heck of a lot more convenient... not to mention the car tells you when to do it, anyway.
By the way, BMW's been doing this for almost 15 years now.... If there had been any issues, I think they would have run into them by now.
The cars computer is saying I will need an oil change in
about 7,500 miles. I am considering paying for an oil
change out of pocket instead of waiting.
It's not really my call... It's a call that BMW's been making for the past 15 years, and they haven't had any problems with their engines as a result.
You should probably wait for the field engineer to come out and check it, then wait for the engine, if necessary....
Doesn't add up. A "knock" generally means something has worn down or collapsed internally...or....sometimes it is nothing more than a bad piston wrist pin, which isn't so serious.
But the good side is that a tech is coming. He can not only verify the problem but also authorize the repairs. So you should make sure the tech is prepared to authorize the repairs for the dealer. The dealer will do nothing without authorization I don' think because the cost is going to be really really substantial and he's not going to gamble on having the cost bounced by BMW.
By the way, as a note for future reference; I have a 740i 2001 with 88,000 and the lower coolant level sensor that is located under the reservoir tank fill area sprung a leak of anti-freeze recently. Just 2 months earlier the upper radiator cracked and had to replace; but my point is there is a design flaw in the sensor placement as when the leak occurred the only way to repair it was to replace the entire reservoir tank as the sensor part did not have a gasket that could be replaced. The plastic mount just gave out and the sensor was fine. Very expensive for what should have been a minor item. I will call BMW to see if I get any sympathy. Has anyone out there experienced this? Earlier someone said to just figure $200/month for maintenance and repairs for their car. I can see why. Good luck!
Some indy shops won't even work on a 740, so check first.
Summary: best car possible + perfect shop + right price or else don't pull the trigger. Can be heaven or can be hell, depending on how you play it IMO.
You mean a 1990s era performance sedan that drives like a BMW but runs like a Lexus?
No such animal IMHO.
If you could live with a mid to later 90s 5 Series BMW, that might work better for you. Again, low miles.
i have tried getting in tuoch with the BMW ombudsman who advised me to send a certified letter to the car dealer I have dealt with in San Diego. After 7 days, I have had no response. The ombudsman indicated he will go to BMW NA. When I tried contacting the regional service BMW employee (who has flown in to San Diego on 3 occasions to try and fix the car), nobody will give me his phone number or email address. I have phoned BMW NA, in New Jersey, all to no avail!
I am extremely frustrated as I can't really even drive this car now!
The independent shop is doing an iterative process to see if they can find what is happening.
Does anyone have any suggestions? Surely I can't be the only 750 (12 cyl) with electrical problems?! Oh, by the way, ALL PROBLEMS FOR THE 26 TIMES HAVE BEEN ELECTRICAL RELATED!
is your 7 series still running smootly at such a high milage?
Thanks,
Nonetheless, now I am starting to hear the rattle sound again, though less frequently and not as intense as before. It comes intermediately and especially when accelerating. There is some hesitation in acceleration as well. Leaves me scratching my head, and wondering what could be wrong. And just to clarify everything I always fill my BMW with premium high octane fuel. Very unfortunate, given how much I love this car, but I will be taking it to the dealership soon for further analysis and hopefully they will get rid of that annoying rattle noise and sensation for good! :sick:
I think that unless you are on your own making a pretty good buck this may not be the car for you...they cost a lot to maintain and repair...you may want to fix it and bail and try a 3 or 5 series.