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I took out Nav DVD disc and turned on the car, screen came back. I turned off the car, put the DVD disc back in and turned the car on. Screen was blank, grey with white lines. I then tried taking DVD out again but it would not come out.
Just wanted to know if anyone run into similiar issue and how it was resolved. It sucks that my certified warranty run out in June.
Thanks for your help.
I'm still puzzled though why people still want to buy these things. A quick scan through these boards reads like the Land Rover boards: most people love the cars, pay up for them, yet the ownership experience is awful! While the Rover thing is utterly baffling (a 70 MPH lane change in a Disco is a white knuckle experience while the ladder frame chassis takes a set and the roof decides much it is going to lean over) , I do understand how nice a 7 Series can be on a good day when the computers are all working, the I Drive in intuitively clear, and it is sunny out. But still, why do rational people buy such a problematic car?
Moreover, I can't understand the Bimmer resale values. Everyone agrees that the car has lousy reliability. Yet, a used new style 7 Series is still close to 40K and the car is 4 to 5 years old. Are there that many people out there that just have to have the Bimmer brand, to heck with the underlying value for the money equation?
I guess that leaves reasonable people like you (and me) who want a high end lux sedan that is fun and will handle with a short list to choose from. Don't forget about Jag though: great reliability, great pricing, and it is significantly lighter and nimbler than a uber German sedan. Resale? Lousy. But you can work it in your favor by buying an '05 for 42K as a CPO.
1. Disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes
2. Taking out Nav DVD
3. Putting DVD back into reader
Everything worked ok for about 2 days and then Nav screen went grey again while i was
driving. I reset the computer (see above) and screen started working again. But this time
radio stopped working after about 5 min. I had to turn radio off and back on again. It worked
for another 5-10min and then stopped at which point screen went dark again.
Any ideas/suggestions???
I also am having the same problem with my navigation system. Like yours, it is a 2000 BMW 740IL. Did you ever found out the problem and how to fix it?
Thank you
I have had the phone replaced and the cradle repaired.
The on screen memory numbers do not come on regularly (which means that no incoming calls can come thru and no outgoing sent) the number pad does not work when the onscreen does not come on, phone calls get disconnected in mid call and away from the car reception is not great.
Anyone else have such experience and what advice can someone suggest the next time I see the dealer.
1. Run away screaming. Might as well be a Range Rover.
2. Car of a lifetime.
3. Not a Lexus, but not bad...
I'm a low-mileage driver, 12K or less per year, commute less than 5 miles each way. Parts don't seem too expensive. What's the bottom line on these cars?
My general approach to buying a used car is to buy the best car that depreciates the most. On paper, 7 series is tops, on THAT score, that's for sure...
Your biggest obstacle will be: how much can you afford to keep this car going? Unless you are fairly well-to-do, repair bills on this car will truly stagger you if/when they come up. Maybe the depreciation is in your favor but the upkeep definitely is not.
I'd say if you can't afford a new one, don't buy a used one out of warranty, as a rule of thumb for the 750 especially. Or in dollars and sense, I think you should plan on throwing about $250--$300 per month (averaged out) to keep the car on the road. That's not including gas and insurance of course.
What to watch for: check engine light, flukey NAV system, glitchy electrics, front control arm bushings, loosening trim pieces exterior and interior.
I've just bought a 2000 735i & need help discovering which mobile phone is compatable with it.
The car is U.K spec, & I'm told has connection compatable with "old style" Nokias.
The cord has a connector similar to a small version of a computer serial port lead,any ideas which phone I should be looking out for?
I am also considering a used 740 (see them with low miles 30-40k)in the late 90s (I don't want or like the navigation -idrive ect) for small money.
Other cars I am considering are/where E series MB in 2002-04 again with low (under 40 k)(pretty much ruled it out even thou I like the look but the many repair problems posted on here make me want stay away from them) and the lexus LS 430 (much more money and very expensive to repair so I have moved that to back burner even thou wife has a 04 RX330 and like it (but not the service)
thanks
Of course, a person could buy a really NICE car, neglect it totally, and ditch it afer a year and have very little monthly expense....
I guess then you could say that with anything thou.Unless you drive a horse (and Mr Ed and his cousins do eat) you need to have to spend on tires, brakes, belts, hoses ect no matter what you drive no?
I figure there has to be a bit more cost on these 7 series (and the ls 430's,MB E's or any luxury car) ,I know the tires for my wifes RX330 where close to $800 which would be about double say a Envoy ot Explorer.But what would concern me is anything more than normal maintance
Any guess's one how much more on theses 7 series (again the late 90's NOT the later "I-drive" navigation ones)and any thing in particular one should look for as a big ,not normal maintance, expense ???
thanks
So my point is that you are heavily reliant on the dealer for *some* issues (not tires or brakes of course). But brakes will still cost you around $1,200 (as opposed to $1,800 from the dealer). This of course is a full brake job, all wheels, rotors, pads, the whole she-bang.
I love these cars, but you have to respect their complexity and be sober about the cost of keeping one tip-top after warranty is over.
Would you say that puts it closer to say a Lexus in owners cost?
thanks
If a 750il is available to you and you like it, go for it. You just have to resign yourself to higher than average costs with either 740 or 750. I'd think twice or three times about a car like this if I expected to put it to heavy duty use. For a low-mileage driver, though, they have a heck of a lot to offer. You just have to be able to maintain a certain amount of liquidity for the repairs and maintenance. Think about all the bucks you save on depreciation. That's a very real, if invisible expense.
Haunting the enthusiast forums such as this can help. For example, I found out that the bimmer heads like Kuhmo Ecsta tires for about $100 apiece for their rides.
thanks for your help,.... very informative postings..
Two days after I purchased the car, the high power power seeting line blew. No problem, as BMW said, it is under warranty - only $50 deductible, which I got the dealer to pay for. Then a few months later the battery went - not under warranty, but the Water Cooled Alternator ($1050) was covered for $50. Well, seemed to be fine and in Jun 05 I took in in for the Level II service ($850). BMW did a great job and the list of items repaired was extensive - including complete cleaning and repairing of parts in the Throttle Body, two power steering lines, and gee the list was four pages including a couple of it items not covered. My cost, including the Level II was around $1300 - not bad considering they said I basically had a new car. Well, in June 2005 the front passenger side power window lift motor went out - Cost $550. January 2006, I took it to BMW for a coolant change - oops - needed auxillary water pump and lower power steering line plugged. All went well until, Oct 06 and the rear passenger power window life went out $457 (non BMW repair) - and just to clarify, with minor exception I have no one else in this vehicle - BMW told me the window lifts went out due to non-use. I do roll the windows down - BS in my opinion. And as I searched the internet looking for the lifts so I would know a competetive price - I noticed that nearly every web site did not have the window lift for the passebger side (front and rear same lift). In Nov 06, Iwent back to the dealer that installed the rear lift due to a clicking. As I pulled into the parking lot my Check Coolant light came on. Opening the hood, there was a pin hold leak in the right front. Replacement time, $487. Oh, maybe I should mention - this is now the third radiator in 85,000 miles. The original, a a second radiator as I found out installed by BMW under warranty for the original owner. And now power steering lines again, or at least I hope that is all. Putting in the shop to have fixed tomorrow morning. I also have posted it for sale and if the inspection goes okay tomowwor, I will place it on a lot under consignment. I wish you well, still love the car, style and power. I have reached the point that I am scared to drive the car for fear of something else failing. So, I purchased an 2007 acura RL. Best of luck, Don
Fast 7
Thanks
1. NAV computer replaced
2. Rear window regulator replaced
3. Power steering hose replaced
4. Radiator replaced
Is this typical of BMW quality? :mad:
1. radiator replaced
2. 4 days after replacing radiator, the car was towed again to the shop to replace the supply reservoir (or something).
3. power steering hose replaced
4. regulator on rear door window replaced
5. rear door shade replaced
6. glove box handle fixed (could not get in glove box)
7. when it rained, it leaked overhead in the rear door area, they replaced tubing that drains the water
8. replaced device that displays text in the dash, some of the dots were missing in text and some times you could not read what was displayed
(Now this list of 8 things is just what I remember without referencing the maintenance records. I am more than positive I have missed several things.)
Although not under warranty, I've replaced rotors every time I've replaced brakes. They say it's normal for BMW.
As of Feb 2007, I have 109K miles on the car, it's no longer under warranty and at 109K miles, the transmission went out. The message came up "Trans. Fail Safe Prog." It happened one week, had it checked out and they said the computer showed that I needed to replace the brake sensor light and the thermostat. So I did, at a cost of $800. Then a week later, the message returns and the car jerks all the way home. The transmission was gone, and to replace it costs $6,000. The dealer gave me a 10% discount, so I paid $5,400 out of pocket to replace the transmission. And the glove box would not open again, I replaced the handle at a cost of $400. I had to get rear brakes and rotors at a cost of $650. And then they tell me that the "return hose for the power steering" is leaking and needs replacing. I said, I replaced that hose. They looked thru the records and I replaced the "supply hose", not the "return hose" and the power steering has 3 hoses. All of this occurred in Feb 2007. I guess it will be soon when the 3rd power steering hose is leaking.
Previously I owned 2 Honda Accords. I got 180K miles on one and 220K miles on another. Neither required a new transmission or half of the problems I've had with BMW. I've had it with BMW. I test drove a Lexus this weekend. I was not as impressed with handling and how lightweight the car seemed, but they are reliable. BMW needs to get it right! It's almost hysterically funny how often this car has been towed from my garage to the dealer. I know my neighbors are scratching their heads, because I'm surely scratching mine. But each time I seem to convince myself that once this is done then I won't have any problems for a while, boy have I been wrong. I have to get rid of the car - in a few months I hope.
To say the least I'm very disappointed in the quality of the car considering it's cost. From your list, I've had 2 of those things to happen, it seems we have similar problems.
1. Computer that controls steering
2. Some fuse (the engine stopped running in the middle of highway and would not start)
3. Oxygen sensor for the service engine soon light
4. Glove compartment locking mechanism
5. Radiator cover on the hood. The thing just fell off.
6. Fuel door lock
Keep in mind that right now I only have 61,000 miles on that car.
You may want to consider finding a good independent shop since what your dealer charges seems very high.
I like how BMW car drives but the only way I am going to get one is under a full warranty and get rid of it before it ends. 2003 745s look interesting due to warranty extension. See above.
But guess what happened to me later the same day I replied to your email. I left work, drove one block to the gas station, fill the car with gas, got back in the car and the car would not start. It was the alternator and battery. So now that's been replaced. I'm hoping that with all things I've replaced this car will now last another 100K miles so I can recoup my money by getting more mileage out of the car.
You are correct, I need a good independent shop and I know of a reputable one. I actually called them to get a quote for the transmission. They were $900 cheaper, which is a lot, but there were several reasons I went with the dealer.
1. they gave me a free loaner (rental) car,if I had used the independent source, I would have had to pay for car rental
2. they could do it faster
3. I feel I have more recourse with them if something goes wrong
But I will consider using the other source for other things.
I had to replace two window regulators and have a third that is on it's way out.
My power steering hose has been replaced.
My radiator was replaced (under warranty at least).
My front calipers stuck and had to be replaced.
My front seat lumbar support had to be fixed.
How much did it cost you to get the NAV computer fixed?
My NAV/radio resets itself all the time. In the colder weather it seems to work, but it hardly works at all in the heat.
Not the image of quality I was hoping for by buying a luxury BMW. Like I said, it drives wonderfully, but I can't believe how many problems I have had!