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BMW 7-Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • jt63jt63 Member Posts: 1
    Upon starting our engine, WARM, the idle immediately rises to about 700. Seconds later, the idle drops 200-300 RPM, the engine shudders for a second or two, then resumes smooth running at about 700 RPM.

    Technicians spent days trying to define and remedy the problem. They were unsuccessful. The corporation says the car is operating within normal standards.

    Any similar experience out there?
  • arcata1arcata1 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out where that relay is?

    Thanks
  • trs2trs2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello:
    I have an '01 740il with 116k miles. According to the diognostical electrical test when my car was last in the shop, I need a passenger control arm bushing. I have not yet needed to replace any of the bushings, however I did replace a tie-rod on this side of the car while it was under the extended warrenty at approx. 90k. My Kumho tires (never purchase again) are worn on the inside of both the passenger side tires. However, they probably still have 10k of life on them.

    What would be the estimated time to complete this project, since all places charge by the hour? Could there be another issue that the system failed to diagnose relative to the tire? Would you recommend replacing any other parts in the process?

    I have noticed that my car does "shimmy" at speeds around 50 mph, I hope that replacing the bushing would resolve the issue. If I would put new tires on the car, would you also recommend an allignment? Could I get the new tires and allignment at a future service date?

    Thanks for your input!
  • scholderscholder Member Posts: 14
    trying to replace a window regulator and while dismantling window having a problem in removing the rubber guide along the side of the window. There seems to be no starting point or joint where to work from and don't know if a special tool/trick is needed to get it started. The step before called for removing the outside metal covering strip which I did. Next step says remove screws and take off plate. Could someone help explain better?
  • papsephuspapsephus Member Posts: 15
    When I'm driving my car and am stopping at a red light or stop sign I get a bump that lurches the car forward right before I come to a stop. It has almost caused me to hit the car in front of me when I'm parking at the grocery store.

    The car is still under warranty, and they have done some reprogramming, but it has not worked. Has anyone else experienced this? I think I might need some transmission parts replaced, but I think they are holding off because I have 83,000 miles and the warranty is up in January '09.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a delayed and harsh downshift into 1st gear. Maybe electronic problem? They should be at least reading the trouble codes.

    Here's a TSB on the subject:

    SI B 24 17 07
    Automatic Transmission

    July 2007
    Technical Service

    SUBJECT
    Harsh 3-2 and/or 2-1 Downshifts

    MODEL
    E65 and E66 (7 Series) 745i and 745Li with N62 and GA6HP26Z transmission

    Vehicles from SOP up to 03/2005

    SITUATION
    IMPORTANT :Depending on the production date of the vehicle; there are different situations, and corrective measures, that must be carefully followed. Running production changes in vehicle hardware and software divide these situations into three distinct production periods.

    A. For vehicles produced from SOP up to and including 02/2003:

    ^ Harsh 3-2 and / or 2-1 downshift when slowing to a stop

    ^ Harsh downshift when accelerating at highway speeds

    ^ "Clunk" noise during a 2-1 downshift while driving slowly to a rolling stop, or during load reversal as described in SI B24 14 07 and SI B26 01 06.

    B. For vehicles produced from 03/2003 up to and including 08/2003

    ^ "Clunk" noise during 2-1 downshift while driving slowly to a rolling stop, or during load reversal as described in SI B24 14 07 and SI B26 01 06.

    C. For vehicles produced from 09/2003 up to and including 02/2005

    ^ Harsh 3-2 downshift when slowing to a stop

    ^ "Clunk" noise during a 2-1 downshift while driving slowly to a rolling stop, or during load reversal as described in SI B24 14 07 and SI B26 01 06.

    CAUSES
    EGS software calibration

    Driveshaft guibo coupling deterioration for "clunk" noise complaints
    CORRECTION
    For Situation A: Harsh downshift complaints

    1. Verify that the transmission fluid level is correct.

    2. Perform a "Short test" and correct all Drivetrain related faults first.

    3. Submit a Puma case titled "Coasting Jolt" to obtain the access code needed to complete the retrofit reprogramming of the EGS module.

    4. Start a Progman session using only V26.1.1 or higher and select "Coasting Jolt" from the retrofit options menu. The measures plan should indicate a higher programmed number and an EGS calibration change.

    5. Clear the EGS adaptations after programming is completed.
    For "clunk" noise complaints, vehicles produced 10/2002 up to and including 02/2003, inspect the driveshaft guibo coupling for deterioration or separation as described in SI B24 14 07.

    For Situation B: "Clunk" noise complaints
    1. Verify the complaint

    On vehicles produced from 03/2003 up to and including 08/2003 the only repair is to inspect the driveshaft guibo coupling for deterioration or separation as described in SI B24 14 07.
    Note :There are not any further EGS software changes for vehicles in this production period. For Situation

    For Situation C: Harsh 3-2 downshift complaints
    1. Verify that the transmission fluid level is correct.

    2. Perform a "Short test" and correct all Drivetrain related faults first.

    3. Submit a Puma case titled "Urban Program" to obtain the access code needed to complete the retrofit reprogramming of the EGS module.

    4. Start a Progman session using only V26.1.1 or higher and select "Urban Program" from the retrofit options menu. The measures plan should indicate a higher programmed number and an EGS calibration change.

    5. Clear the EGS adaptations after programming is completed.

    For "clunk" noise complaints, vehicles produced 09/2003 up to and including 02/2005, inspect the driveshaft guibo coupling for deterioration or separation as described in SI B24 14 07.
    WARRANTY INFORMATION
    Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

    Please refer to the latest KSD for all applicable labor operations and allowances.

    If the appropriate labor operation is not contained in KSD, then a work time labor operation should be used.

    Defect Code 24 00 39 61 00
  • papsephuspapsephus Member Posts: 15
    Thanks Mr. Shiftright,

    I am taking it back the dealer next week. They have always done a great job on my vehicle and I have always been pleased with their excellent service. But the vehicle has been in twice on this issue. Hopefully they can resolve it this time.

    I have had this vehicle for five years and I have to say that I love the engine, the handling, and the comfort. But this one thing spoils it all, especially when you have a new passenger and they say, "what was that!".
  • mevander1mevander1 Member Posts: 43
    Hello all,
    I have had my 1998 740i for 6.5 years. At 75,00 miles it needs another brake job, both front and rear, however I don't want to pay the dealer the high $$'s, approx 1100.00 for the job. Anyone have a good experience having it done by someone else than the dealer and what price?

    Many thanks!

    Mike
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's actually not too bad price for that job, in my experience. I've seen it as high as $1,800 for a 7 series. I presume this is all 4 rotors, etc?

    Sure, shop around but stay away from chain stores. You don't want Chinese pie plate rotors trying to stop a locomotive. Quality German parts, please.
  • rcharcom740rcharcom740 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 740il and I do my own brakes -they are quite easy - for added help they have a pictorial view i believe in the bimmerforum sorry I dont have the link
    5 key items
    metric hex driver is needed (easy to buy)
    Use only Greman rotors (chinese rotors warp trust me
    need a flat bar and big c clamp to pull back the pucks
    replace the electronic sensor

    total cost with german rotors should be in the $800 - I enjoy it for 1100 and Germany Rotors you may want them to do it
  • mevander1mevander1 Member Posts: 43
    Thanks for the replies! Mr S. How handy do you have to be to do it yourself? I am not that mechanically inclined, except when it comes to PC's. (everyone comes to me for help there and can tear one down and back,.. not my day job:)

    Mike
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I always encourage people doing DIY to have a good repair manual, read over the procedure as it is listed, then check in here before you start if there's something in the procedures you don't understand. As long as you don't open the hydraulic system, I think you'll get by with genuine common sense, a few good tools and a repair manual.

    The public library may have this.

    I'm sure would give you some free advice! :P
  • brupa01brupa01 Member Posts: 1
    Hi

    I have the same car, and same problem, only SOMETIMES the radio works, sometimes not, (mostly not lately).

    I bought a replacement (used) radio and swapped it out and NOTHING.

    Did you ever find out the cause?
  • mevander1mevander1 Member Posts: 43
    I have a 1998 BMW 740i. The dealer indicates I need to replace my Catalytic converter and they want 5800.00. I have checked out a few forums and seems many people are using the Magnaflow (universal fit) model. There are also other choices and they can be confusing with converters being listed as left and right and even 'eastern'.

    Has anyone here had theirs replaced?

    Thanks in advance!

    Mike
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes there is a left and right catalytic.

    You might find this TSB interesting:

    GROUP 18
    Exhaust Systems

    Bulletin Number
    18 01 99

    Woodcliff Lake, NJ
    September 1999
    Product Engineering

    This Service Information bulletin supersedes S.I. 18 01 99 dated August 1999 which should be removed and discarded from your S.I. binder.
    SUBJECT:
    Unnecessary Catalytic Converter Replacements

    MODEL:
    E36 with M44 engine from 1/96 prod.

    Z3 with M44 engine from 10/96 prod.

    E36 with M52, 852 engines from 10/95 prod.

    E46 with M52 engine from 6/98 prod.

    E39 with M52 engine from 3/96 prod.

    Z3 with M52, 852 engines from 1/96 prod.

    E38, E39, E31 with M62 engine from 1/96 prod.

    E38, E31 with M73 engine from 1/95 prod.
    Situation:
    Analysis of returned catalytic converters has proven that some converters are not defective and are replaced unnecessarily.

    The reason for unnecessary converter replacements may be due to the misfire fault code(s) in conjunction with the statement "catalyst damaging" being stored in the Engine Control Module (ECM/DME).
    Example:
    Fault Codes 63 - 70: "Cylinder misfire detected - catalyst damaging"

    If a vehicle is found with the "Check Engine" lamp on and one or more misfire faults are stored in the engine control module, the fault code description "cylinder X misfire detected - catalyst damaging" will be displayed on the diagnosis fault survey of the DIS or MoDIC.

    The qualifier "catalyst damaging" is a reminder that this type of fault (cylinder misfire) may over time cause damage to the catalytic converter if it is not repaired.

    Troubleshooting cylinder faults should be carried out using the DIS or MoDIC i.e. check secondary ignition system, etc.

    A catalytic converter should not be replaced automatically when a - catalyst damaging" fault code is stored in the Engine Control Module.

    A catalytic converter replacement is only necessary if fault codes 40, 45 or 233 (E9 hex), 234 (EA hex) are stored in the Engine Control Module which are catalytic converter efficiency or conversion faults and/or if a customer complaint of an audible rattle noise coming from the converter is verified.
  • techman41973techman41973 Member Posts: 83
    I am considering purchasing a 97 740I with 155K. I am concerned with reliability and how much money I would need to dump into the car for repairs over time.
    I would appreciate to hear your repair experiences from 100K-250K for the 95-01 7-series generation.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Don't do it unless the car is extremely cheap, would be my sincere advice. Any major component failure on that car, and it is literally totalled. Miles are simply too high to expect any degree of reliability assurance anymore. So in other words, pay only enough for the car so that if you have to just leave it on the side of the road in a year's time, you won't feel too heavily invested. I'd say $3,000 is more than enough for the car with that mileage, and the price guides agree, if one carefully deducts for mileage and presumes clean but not pristine condition.

    If you have the red mist in your eyes and you MUST have it (I understand, I've done this many times) then by all means have it thoroughly examined at a repair shop prior to purchase, and pay particular attention to the cooling system (cracked upper or lower radiator necks!!, worn water pump, fan clutch failure---common) exhaust systems, condition of brake rotors (not turnable, you replace them and they aren't cheap), control arm bushings front, torn subframe bushings rear, electrical glitches and malfunctions (such as strange warning lights, windows not working, AC/Heat irregularities, power seat malfunction, poorly soldered electrical relays, especially headlights), rough idle at start up (vacuum leaks) excessive tie rod wear, weak struts or shocks (they are only good for about 60K on a 7 series of this vintage) torn flex disc in driveshaft, leaky valve cover gaskets, clogged pollen filter (gives weak AC and heat flow), very dirty automatic transmission fluid leading to shifting problems.

    Other than that....... :P
  • berthahnberthahn Member Posts: 2
    I am the owner of a 1998 740 iL with 120K mileage.
    I no longer have the window sticker that came on the car.
    Is it possible to get a re-print of the original from BMW? If not,
    I would love to find someone with the same car who has their
    original, that would copy/scan and sell it to me.
    Mine is Cashmere Beige Metallic. :)
  • stynestyne Member Posts: 1
    What was the cause of your radio working part time?

    Please reply,

    Steve :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might contact these people:

    http://www.bmwcca.org/
  • berthahnberthahn Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the tip!
  • oceans557oceans557 Member Posts: 1
    Dear Readers,
    Yesterday I bought a 06 750li silver 36k miles, conv pkg, comfort access, luxury seating pkg, logic 7 for $41,800 out the door and in good condition previously registered as corporate fleet vehicle. Please share your opinions on this deal. Also please give me your opinion on if the car has been abused by previous owner(which I really cant tell if it has been) how will it hold up for the next 100k miles. Will 36k miles of revving engine make a difference to the car? It drives perfectly smooth right now.

    Thank You
  • shermanbshermanb Member Posts: 2
    when first taking off there is a hard shift from 1 to 2 sometimes.i checked tranmission fluid which was good.is there some type of electronic problem that would cause that
  • shermanbshermanb Member Posts: 2
    sometimes the screen works fine,some other time its just static.when it is static it seems like it want to pop in but most of the time it won't.is that something loose in the connection or maybe something else
  • danbouydanbouy Member Posts: 2
    Due to needed repairs I had to park my car but the date to have repairs made have has been extended twice. The other day I went to start the car and of course realized I was unable to get the key to unlock the door, not to speak of accessing the battery to put a charge in it. What do I do now? Is there anyone out there who has a solution? I need to move the car in the next couple of days--at least by December 1, 2008.
  • danbouydanbouy Member Posts: 2
    Due to needed repairs I had to park my car. The date to have repairs made has been extended twice. The other day I went to start the car and of course realized I was unable to get the key to unlock the door, not to speak of accessing the battery that is now dead and needs to be charged. What do I do now? Is there anyone out there who has a solution? I need to move the car in the next couple of days--at least by December 1, 2008.
  • DACollinsDACollins Member Posts: 7
    My wife's 01 740il, 135K, has for the last 6 months been developing a (what I incorrectly called a surge) that was barely noticeable at light throttle, highway speeds. As I have watched, the tach when it drops engine speed to engage overdrive, the engine makes a growling or "snoring" sound and pops out of overdrive. Took it to a local bimmer shop (not dealer). Said the Vanus valve was bad from sludge (Thanks BMW service plan from original owner). Caused the control module mounted in conjunction with themostat housing to go bad because the vanus could not move properly confusing the module and burned it out. (not sure I buy it) Anyways, this growling, gear hunting, transmision chattering occurance happens ONLY after the car has achieved operating temp. I have taken the throttle body apart, no wear detectable. Have replaced the spark plugs and boots. HAve spent 1600 dollars on shop to replace vanus valve, control module, etc, Now problem is worse. And the check engine light comes on (bulb burned out now) Please, any help would be appreciated. Don't have money for shop again and Wife won't drive it. :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I wonder if it's your torque converter clutch?
  • DACollinsDACollins Member Posts: 7
    I asked the shop about the trans. They said that if it wasn't locking up, the check engine light would come on. True? It almost feels as if the timing changes, you know the way the engine sounds. Does the torque converter clutch Not lock up during warmup to assist in the warmup procedure? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm not sure on your car but I know that the TC is not allowed to engage with a cold engine on cars like Lexus, yes.

    Saying that a light "should come on" is not an answer. They should be looking for a code regardless.

    Wide and sudden fluctuations in engine timing would be a pretty spooky thing--that would be throwing all kinds of codes then.

    It's kind of hard without driving the car myself. I didn't buy the Vanos idea either.
  • jerodfjerodf Member Posts: 2
    I know this is old but do you remember the result? Mine did it twice once was the suspenison arm or something now its back and no one can tell me why?
  • mevander1mevander1 Member Posts: 43
    I have owned BMW's for a long time and my current 740I will be my last. At only 75,000 miles (1998 model year) the thing is falling apart re: repairs and I am not the only one with these problems.. too many to list. The latest and perhaps most costly problem is the Catalytic converters. I don't have the engine light yet, however they are making that trademark 'gravel' type sound after car is on for a few minutes. I am not going to let the dealer do it for they want 5,800.00 (they must be on crack). I will use aftermarket items that cost less than 100 each plus installation (will use a muffler shop I know of).

    I have friends who have Toyota, Nissan ect and they are much less to maintain. Do they feel as good when you close the door, no. Why can't BMW engineer cars that don't cost a ton to maintain? You see a lot of people with Honda Accords with 150K miles and they run strong and have not needed much re: repairs.
  • AnnWhalAnnWhal Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I just bought a 99 750iL & the seller (dealer) assures me that the on-board computer/nav system needs only to be reprogrammed. It comes on, but only the steering wheel radio controls work, can't get the CD player online... I don't care about the navigation system, I only drive locally. I DO care about the radio/CD player! My question is: Is the seller lying? Anyone? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This is an extremely trouble-prone system with many historical faults so it's hard to know what's going on without proper diagnostics.

    If it's so easy to program why didn't the dealer do it? And I never heard of "re-programming" to correct a blank screen.

    You might check with the BMW dealer to see if there are software updates on CD. Maybe that'll help?

    You apparently need (according to my book) the Software CD V17.0 inserted into the Navigation computer (the CD-ROM V17.0 bears the P/N 01 59 9 789 299 Index "u"). There is a step by step procedure for installing this upgrade and also getting the radio to work.

    If your dealer hinted that all you had to do was press a few buttons---well, lotsa luck.
  • AnnWhalAnnWhal Member Posts: 2
    I would have thanked you sooner for the information, most appreciated, but I wanted to update you on after investigating. I took the car to a BMW specialist who ran diagnostics on the control panel, which apparently, is fried. Replacement unit costs $956, plus labor... plus labor... grrrrr. The dealer I bought it from is a small used car dealership, who buys at auction, does minor repairs/sprucing up, and resells at his shop.
    BUYER BEWARE!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well sorry to hear that, but hopefully a lesson learned here...when a dealer or seller says "all it needs is a ....." , in my opinion the response is "well, then, that's all you need to do before I buy it".

    You might consider taking the dealer to small claims court if you think he misrepresented the car to you. The term "AS IS" does not relieve anyone of the consequences of misrepresentation per se, especially a licensed dealer. I'd try to hit the dealer up for 50-50 on this one if the purchase was fairly recent. If you bought the car 6 months ago, forget what I said. You own it now.
  • sysadb420sysadb420 Member Posts: 12
    My apologies if my post comes across the 3rd time, but I just joined and there seems to be a problem posting. This neck is the plastic bend on the top on the driver side of the radiator. It's a small leak and I was wondering whether anyone has been able to stop the leak with a special glue or something.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That might be tough given the heat and pressure, but I have successfully mended a hole in the plastic intake of a BMW heater core with JB Weld, and lasted for a long long time. Worth a shot, that radiator can't be cheap...let's see....

    Actually for a 745 model it's only $300...that's not bad at all. My Porsche 928 was $1200 bucks. :(
  • sysadb420sysadb420 Member Posts: 12
    Thanks, I had a shop try some glue but it didn't hold. He said it held and he pressure tested it and all was well, but I'm wondering if the plastic contracted when it cooled and cracked the glue. I notice it tends to leak more as it cools...

    This 740i only has 70K miles and is otherwise in great shape. I might give the JB Weld a try. The independent shop also said the radiator was "a couple hundred bucks".

    One thought for owners with power steering hose issues - while hoses may go bad, a leak might not necessarily be because the hose is bad. My BMW dealer said the hoses needed to be replaced, but I looked closer and one of the hoses was leaking from the top end (and running down the hose). Turns out the clamp was deteriorating. Thanks, BMW dealer.

    Ironically, I also had a 928. Unlike the 7-series, nothing was reasonably priced, especially the torque tube. :) I got tired of the timing belt triggering the warning light and dumped it. Not knowing if it was really worn/loose was just too stressful.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    JB Weld is pretty awesome stuff but you have to do very good prep work. It won't work on anything that moves or flexes however.
  • sysadb420sysadb420 Member Posts: 12
    I'll find out which glue the shop tried. The plastic neck seems reasonably firm, but its subject to jarring, obviously. I also saw an amazing epoxy that sets up fast used by a body shop to reattach the flexible plastic trim under the driver door. I might ask them for it.

    If not I guess it's a new radiator.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yeah well welcome to the BMW radiator club.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    I find it truly amazing that the American consumer puts BMW, Range Rover, and other car lines into the SuperBrand category. The monthly maintenance bills on an out of waranty Bimmer or Rover have got to average $500 a month. For the Ultimate Drivers Machine to use plastic components such as plastic water pump impellers in the cooling systm is absoutely irresponsible. The typcial new GM car has zero, repeat zero maintenance out to 100,000 miles. Just change the oil, use synthetic if you are a keeper, and rotate the tires once in a while and you are free to travel about the country until 100,000 miles.

    Oh, well this must be the reason that a flawless 06 750i is now worth less than 40K.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    They are wonderful cars to drive and you pay for the privilege of that experience, and for the prestige of ownership. You simply cannot compare apples and oranges. A bicycle would be even cheaper to maintain. :P

    And it's not $500 a month. With the worst of luck, maybe $250 a month out of warranty. Still cheaper than buying a new Yaris.
  • dannyt740idannyt740i Member Posts: 1
    Hello all, I am brand new to this forum and a brand new BMW owner. I recently purchased a used 98 740i, have had it for 2 weeks and have fallen absolutely in love with it. That said, the car mysteriously and suddenly died while driving on the highway. It was as if it ran out of gas. I am trying to save some money on the mechanic and am going to try and diagnose the problem myself, and thus far am waiting on the repair manual cd's in the mail.

    I wanted to pose to the community if there is a common problem with these symptons. It very well could be and probably is a fuel filter or pump or something of the sort, but was wondering if anyone had any info. I did not run out of gas, and all of the electrical components outside of the hood are working fine, but I have not tested anything under the hood yet.

    Anything would be helpful,

    Thanks
  • sysadb420sysadb420 Member Posts: 12
    Bickisland - by maintenance I assume you mean repairs? My car is not the best example since I only just turned 70K miles on my 98, but I have spent $1200 on repairs since I bought the car in August 2000. I've spent another $1700 on service including F&R brakes and 2 batteries. To be fair, several items broke during the warranty 4-year period including the water pump and the CD changer. It also had electrical issues with most of the exterior lights. That problem seemed to be a design issue as a service bulletin repair straightened it out. But with my car the bottom line is that most problems were caught and fixed during the warranty period and have not re-occured.

    I've had very few problems since the warranty ran out June 2002. This radiator leak is the first in awhile. I bought the two year old car for $41.5K in 2000 with 13.6K miles on it, and could easily sell it for $10K now. So from my perspective it's cost me about $31K in depreciation plus $3K in maintenance and repairs. Not bad, IMO, for 8.5 years of driving the best. I would admit that the equation is more expensive if you buy one new due to the rapid depreciation the first couple years. But the flip side is that you can buy a fabulous used car at a good price due to that depreciation.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Have a scanner might help for diagnosis. I suppose that without one you could do some crude sleuthing---for instance you could check for spark in the usual manner---and/or you could squirt some starting ether into the intake--if the car fires up for a second, then you know you have a fuel delivery problem and not an ignition problem.

    Those repair CDs generally aren't any good, if they're the $9.95 variety. That's a kind way of putting it. CRAP would be more like it.

    You may need to invest in something better.

    http://www.bimmerzone.com/bmwproducts.htm#38

    Well worth it for the DIYer. That and a hand-held scanner and a service light reset tool.
  • bmlexusbmlexus Member Posts: 755
    And it's not $500 a month. With the worst of luck, maybe $250 a month out of warranty. Still cheaper than buying a new Yaris

    What do you mean by, still cheaper than buying a new yaris :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I meant that if you bought a new Yaris that's about what it would cost you per month---$250+.

    Soooooo even though it SEEMS like you might be spending a good deal on your out of warranty luxurious great handling 7 series, you STILL couldn't buy much of a new car for the same money.

    I trust this clarifies my obscure prose.
  • bmlexusbmlexus Member Posts: 755
    I meant that if you bought a new Yaris that's about what it would cost you per month---$250+.

    Soooooo even though it SEEMS like you might be spending a good deal on your out of warranty luxurious great handling 7 series, you STILL couldn't buy much of a new car for the same money.

    Well, at least the Yaris will keep you away from a workshop for at least 3 years, it wont get you stranded in the middle of nowhere.

    I've read so many bad reviews about the x6, even from people I know who work for bmw, its hard for me to buy and trust a brand new bmw for reliability issues. I don't want to get worried about my new car engine being over heated on a long drive and be stuck in an unknown place in the middle of nowhere.

    A used bmw seems to be out of the question, at least for me.

    Thank for the quick reply
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