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Ford F-250 Owners

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  • wuchapuchrwuchapuchr Member Posts: 4
    I've got the 2001 F-250 SD w/7.3 L and am in the process of researching aftermarket gauges to install. Have it narrowed down to DiPricol (love these suckers!) pyro, tran temp, and boost. I am a little unsure as to what range of boost gauge I should get. I have a buddy that has a new Cummins and says a 0-30# would work but thought I'd ask some people who probably have one installed already. 0-30, 0-35 (leaning towards this one), or 0-60. What do you guys recommend? Thanks for your time.
  • sowardssowards Member Posts: 2
    I have just purchased a 2001 ford f250 super duty and i am thinking about buying american racing assualt..black wheels 22 inch. I need suggstions on tires please, thank you.
  • wuchapuchrwuchapuchr Member Posts: 4
    sowards, Not sure if you are looking for street tires or offroad. In the past I have been a huge fan of BFGoodrich tires. Had some M/T's on a Ford Bronco I had and loved them ... they wore well although a tad loud on the highway (that's the price you pay). :) I had A/T's on it before and they were an excellent tire as well but lacked the aggressiveness I wanted at the time.

    On my SD I am now running with Toyo Open Country A/T (was very tempted to get the M/T's) and love em. They are quiet yet when up in the mountains hauling firewood or just fooling around I get plenty of traction. I have heard from numerous people that they last a long time and wear well if properly rotated. They handle wet conditions and have only hydroplaned briefly when the water had accumulated in grooves on the interstate and I was driving too fast for the conditions! lol They also handle great on snow and ice.

    These are the only tires I use and have nothing but good things to say about them. It all depends on what you are looking for. Hope this may help you. Good luck!
    (if you want, drop me an e-mail address and I'll send ya some pics of the Toyo's on my truck).

    stevo
  • sowardssowards Member Posts: 2
    Yeah i would like to see those pictures of the toyo's. this is actually his son typing, my dad isn't very good with computers lol, my email address is storm_sowards1hotmail.com, my dad wasn't in detail enough, he actually wasn't detailed enough with his post, he wants sizes of tires that would fit on the truck. he really wants 22' rims but he doesn't know if it is a good idea on this type of truck. do you have any other suggestions on sizes of rims and tires for the super duty. He can get the 22' assualts for $225 apiece and is trying to keep the cost with tires around 1900-2100 if possible. He doesn't have to have the assualts as long as its a black rim and costs less than $2200 w/ tires. off road look would be best if possible. thanks for your help and suggestions.
  • wuchapuchrwuchapuchr Member Posts: 4
    I am sure someone has replied by now but you never know. There is a neutral safety switch on the underside that could be your problem. I had to replace mine (long story ... inadvertantly went off-roading in icy conditions) and I need to adjust it as occasionally I too have to place the truck in neutral (sometimes I have to cycle through them a few times and put it back in neutral) to get it started AND I lost my reverse lights (will work once I get off my butt and adjust the switch). Hope this helps.

    stevo
  • wuchapuchrwuchapuchr Member Posts: 4
    Have to correct myself as it isn't called the neutral safety switch ... but the Transmission Range sensor.
  • acameronacameron Member Posts: 2
    hi guy do you guy no if they fix the spark plug in the 03 f250 are not and can i tower in od towing 7000 have v10 and 430 gear i like the tuck but i not no to much about it. :D
  • gpatgpat Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 F250 with the 6.0L. 62k miles, serviced religiously. Very few problems until last week when a bolt broke on a piston rod and destroyed the entire block. A total freak accident according to the dealer. They, the dealer, gave me a quote of $15,000 for a replacement engine. That's 15 with three zeros! Just insane. Still not sure what I'm going to do. Anyone have a similar story?
  • lynard007lynard007 Member Posts: 10
    Let me be blount about this I have a 03 6.0 deisel @ 97000 mile it blew the head gasket while i was on vacation 200 miles away from home pulling a camper the dealer was one week behind and could not do it so when i got it home took it to fort mill ford where i was jacked around for 6 months said there was nothing wrong with it but i took it camping 5 more times and everytime it over heated blew the coolent out but they couldnt find anything wrong with it so i took it to a 3rd dealer who said yes it has a blown head gasket but now it has 10600 miles on it and ford stand is its out of warrenty and we are not paying for it cant you just feel the love here
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    f-2504x4 steam coming out exhaust my first thought head gasket but no egr valve needed replaced. next week oil in the radiator my thought head gasket but no injector cups. we will see what comes down the pike next. :sick:
  • clarkmeyerclarkmeyer Member Posts: 1
    I have a F250 4X4 auto trans, 191k miles, yesterday the light began flashing on my shift lever and transmission began to shift hard from 2nd through 4th gears with a noticable thud and jerk. What is the cause and likely cost?
  • lzrdking98lzrdking98 Member Posts: 40
    I have a Ford F250 Lariat. It does not have the heated seats option. How hard is it to get this option installed? Isn't the wiring already there? How much would it cost and can it be done? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • 250Diesel03250Diesel03 Member Posts: 4
    i have a 2003 lifted ford f250 superduty turbodiesel. its real nice but i want better gas mileage and more horses. any recommendations on what chip would be best. i heard a triple bully dog would be good.
  • lzrdking98lzrdking98 Member Posts: 40
    Negative!!!!!!!!!!! That chip is crap. Get hypertech. Hypertech is a programer and is a very safe and effective way to up your MPG and horses. You can go to www.hypertech.com and watch the videos comparing the different chips etc. Hypertech blows them out of the water. Just keep an eye on your turbo boost pressures. Also, remember that any change to the stock motor can void the warranty. You should look into that. Lastly, I have heard of blown head gaskets with your model truck, but nothing directly linked to the hypertech programmer. Good luck

    T
  • keroburnerkeroburner Member Posts: 11
    Ford has had a lot of trouble with the 6-liter diesel, and the 2003 was the first. This engine is apparently running right at the top of its design specs. Any modification at all and you are asking for serious and expensive trouble. Problems include blowing turbo hoses off under load, turbo failure, injector failure, and blown head gaskets. To keep from blowing hoses, keep the boost under 25 lbs. To keep the turbo going, don't let it idle very long when engine is cold. This puts unburned fuel into the variable pitch of the turbo and eventually it won't work. Ford calls this "wet stacking". Any increase in compression and you are asking for blown head gaskets.
  • lzrdking98lzrdking98 Member Posts: 40
    Keroburner,

    Very good info. The only thing I would disagree with is the motor running at the top of it's specs. That simply isn't true. I have had Ford tell me that the 6L can be tweaked for way more horsepower, but isn't because of the reasons you indicated. I haven't had any issues with hypertech. I have it on stage 1 and I pull a 32ft trailer too. My boost pressures are the same with or without the hypertech product. Ford has tried to hang their issues with head gaskets etc on chips etc and hypertech has never been linked to these problems. Thanks for the info.
  • 250Diesel03250Diesel03 Member Posts: 4
    thanks guys for your posts. i need the chip for the gas mileage and im going to check out the hypertech chip. is this a lot more expensive though?
  • lzrdking98lzrdking98 Member Posts: 40
    I get 14.2 mpg. Not bad. Towing, I drop to 12 mpg, which is good. My mileage improves as the engine breaks in. I tell people all of the time. We bought trucks not hybrids. We have to live with the mpg for another few years. The diesel truck which gets 40mpg is around the bend. Good luck
  • ahnothinahnothin Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2008 F250 Lariat that did not have heated seats and the dealer was able to install them for $500.00
  • ford_dude1ford_dude1 Member Posts: 8
    hi, i recently bought a 1998 ford f250 lariot and the four wheel drive isn't working. i turn the knob on the dash to 4hi and the 4x4 light comes on but still nothing. but when i shift into 4low in neutral i hear the hubs engage but still the whells don't turn yet the 4x4 low light comes on. any ideas what this is? pplease help me i live in northern canada and this truck is absolutley useless in the snow without the 4x4 working. thanks!

    frustrated ford guy
  • 250Diesel03250Diesel03 Member Posts: 4
    I just recently bought a 03 ford f250 and im new to all of it also. i just took it mudding though and it's bad A. There are notches on the hubcaps of the two front wheels that you have to turn to lock. Then you switch it into 4 wheel drive. make sure if the wheels are locked you have it on 4 wheel drive, it can mess up ur trans if not. when u go back to 2 wheel drive switch the wheels back out of lock. good luck
  • ford_dude1ford_dude1 Member Posts: 8
    thats exactly what someone else told me, but i don't see any notches or dials my hub cap is plastic. i take the hub cap off and still no notches or dials to turn!
  • greenhornitgreenhornit Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the same problem with my truck please if you have fixed yours let me know what you did. thanks
  • fort_sagefort_sage Member Posts: 1
    Have a 1990 F250 7.3 Liter. Pushing 400K miles after an engine rebuild at 175K. Having some dashboard related electrical trouble. Does anyone have experience with removing the instrument cluster, replacing the headlight switch, and the wiper/washer switch? My Haynes manual in useless.
  • 250Diesel03250Diesel03 Member Posts: 4
    I am getting a bully dig chip for my truck, but i dont know if the triple bully dog and the triple bully dog power pup are different or the same. does anybody know?
  • macawman250macawman250 Member Posts: 3
    the truck came factory lifted with the off road package . the rims are 16inch. how much bigger could i get the rims and would i have to do anything special to make room for a 18 inch or 20 inch rim. or can i get a bigger tire and use the same rim. what do you think is better..
  • macawman250macawman250 Member Posts: 3
    if i just buy the chrome header and exhaust that a company says will fit my 03 ford f250, what else do i need to buy. is there a kit i need that has brackets of some sort. is this an expensive job to have a mechanic do>
  • ford_dude1ford_dude1 Member Posts: 8
    i put bigger tires on the same rims! i got 3 inches of lift but you have to watch out for the wheel wells. also your tach and odometer wil be off a bit but its definatly a cheaper option happy muddin!
  • macawman250macawman250 Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the advice. what tire brand did u go with there are so many?
  • steelkensteelken Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 crew cab 6.0 litre 4x2 short box. when it was new I was useing 7.8 litres per 100 klms. I installed a complete K & N filter system ( installed by Ford dealership so warranty was covered ) I now average 5.1 litres to 100 klms ( 30.4 Mpg Canadian )
  • sswheelsswheel Member Posts: 5
    I've recently purchased a 2000 f-250 7.3L diesel. Tonight I went to start it and every thing was normal until I turned the ignition to start it and the truck went dead. I had the electrical system checked two days ago and it tested OK. Everything is out on the truck, no door locks or lights. Has this happened to anyone else and if so what was the problem?
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    check both batteries for proper voltage. if nothing works it sounds like a cable or battery connection. when you had the electrical system checked did they do an output test?
  • sswheelsswheel Member Posts: 5
    put a voltmeter on both batteries and they are in the neighborhood of 12 volts. Not sure on the output test but I think the answer is yes. A cable could be the culprit but would that explain no power to even the minor accessories, say if a terminal on only one battery was bad. The connections are all tight and appear to be free of corrosion. Thanks the help BTW
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    most of the cables on that truck are a one piece that connects both batteries. it runs across the front on the radiator core support to the hot side on the passinger side from the drivers side. then down to the starter. there is also hot wire leads to the alternator and the solenoid on the fender. the voltage should be around 12.80 also 1 battery will usually support lights windows doors and things like that but won't crank the truck. check all the under hood fuses make sure you have voltage at the main power wire. this should be on the drivers side fender.
  • sswheelsswheel Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the advice, I got it going, Just bought this and it is my first diesel so wasn't sure how the batteries were connected. I'd already checked the fuses. The battery terminals looked good but I took them all off and cleaned them up, more to eliminate that as a possibility. The passenger side terminals had some corrosion that could be seen only after they were disconnected. Once they were cleaned and put back on the problem was solved and the truck cranked and started normally. I guess what I'm hearing is that the batteries are connected in series and the corroded terminals on the passenger battery prevented anything on the truck from getting power. Thanks for the information. Learned a lot from this.
  • jesusbjesusb Member Posts: 2
    I've already sent you e-mail. I'm new in this thing in this club. Please, check
    the e-mail (looking for used brackets for my 2 external mirrors). They are full of
    corrosion. Thanks, Jesus Beltran
  • jesusbjesusb Member Posts: 2
    Hey guys !!!!
    I'm still waiting for any subjections....
    I need 2 brackets that hold the exterior mirros. The long brackets are ok. I need
    the "plackets" (top and bottom) joint to the door.
    95 ford diesel power-stroke. Thanks. JesusB
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    try year one
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  • Racerx_86Racerx_86 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 F-250 Crew Cab with the towing package. It seems to have really unacceptable ride qualities. As you're driving along at highway speeds it seems to get into a (rear suspension) bouncing that will rattle your teeth. It seems that the onset occurs after going over a bump. Has anyone else run into the same issues??

    Thanks,
  • nealjnealj Member Posts: 1
    89 F-250 with 5.8L will not start. Last year I lost power to the fuel pump so I hot-wired the pump from the fuse box. A few weeks ago the engine would rev up to 2500 rpm in park and neutral and would never come down until placed in gear. Now the engine will not start. Fuel pump is not the problem. Engine will start with starter fluid sprayed in intake. Any ideas on the problem?
  • ford_dude1ford_dude1 Member Posts: 8
    95% chance its either the fuel injecctors or the fuel injecter module. im gonna say its the module. i would check that first. or it could be a simple fuel filter.
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    probably needs glo plugs. take an multi meter and unplug the wire and check the resistance if it reads zero that one is fine check all eight.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    He's got a 351, not a diesel.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • aztjaztj Member Posts: 1
    I've got the exact same symptoms after switching to biodiesel. i've replace both fuel filters and that had zero effect. did you ever find out what the problem was?
  • cwo99cwo99 Member Posts: 3
    Hi and Help!,

    I have a 99 F250 Diesel. I am the original owner. It has 220,000 miles and a 6- speed manual tranny. I tow a big six-horse trailer quite a bit and have a SuperChips adjustable system for the truck. For over a year now the truck won't start unless it has been plugged in. I have had the truck into the Ft. Collins, CO dealership three times (including right now) and they can't seem to get to the bottom of it. I have had the glow plug relay replaced several times, numerous glow plugs, wiring harnesses, and the pcm once. I believe it has a recalled and replaced cam shaft sensor as well. If the truck sits for a couple days, it won't start unless I use starting fluid, which I don't like to use. When it does start, it runs on less than the 8 cylinders until completely warm. The truck has no problem starting the same day once it has been running earlier in the day. What the heck??
  • cwo99cwo99 Member Posts: 3
    Guys,

    Your front hubs won't engage because the hubs are locked in with a vacuum system. If the vacuum system wears out, the 4x4 light comes on, the transfer case engages, but the hubs don't. It happened to me once. Just be happy it did not fail when the truck was in 4 wheel drive! That also happened to me once - hubs would not disengage but light goes out. Blew up my tansfer case at 80 mph! Vacuum activated hubs - what a joke! My hubs say "lock" and "auto". Not the old "lock" and "free."
  • BroncoBCCBroncoBCC Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 F250 and the door ajar light on the dash is staying on even with all the doors shut. The dome light stays on also. After I drive for a few minutes, the light goes off on the dash, the doors lock, and the dome light goes off. Anyone else have this problem?
  • jim00jim00 Member Posts: 5
    I have 2000 F 250 mine needed shocks @ 12,000 miles and the chrome rims would throw off the tape - on wheel balancing weights.
    If you tow a lot and then unhitch for a highway trip, then "lightness" of the back of the truck can set up your oscillation. Ck the shocks go for Monroe ( Napa) HD (yellow)
    air shocks or the expensive red&white Ranchos. Ck your tire balancing AND air pressure ( ie 72-80 psi for "E" rated 10 ply tires) Hope this helps - j

    PS. Count your rear spring leafs (and HD helper spring if any) to make sure they match...
  • jim00jim00 Member Posts: 5
    My experiences good and bad the last 8 years:
    1 Oil leak Appx 70 -75k "not seen" by Walmart until my dirt driveway showed
    a puddle.
    2 Frt Whl bearings @ 101,k 150,k and 212,k first two sets defective from Ford.
    3 Cam Positioning Sensor 170,k ?? NOW I find a Jan ' 07 recall notice @
    Ford.com.
    (this caused all sorts of dia-nogs form fuelpump to every injector needing to be
    replaced)
    4 Electrical short in Wire Harness under left front Valve cover (for real!!). This
    caused the truck to just shut down any old time, worse than # 3 CPSensor.
    5 Two Fuel Leaks 1.- fuel drain petcock replaced and 2. - a fuel line from the
    bottom underside up to the fuel bowl rubbed itself a hole.
    6 Oil leak "O" ring @ bottom left front oil pump? behind Pwr Strg pump.
    7 Bad side wall blowouts of Firestone ATX 275 16's all eight of them. I now run
    Dunlop 245 16 E rated 10 ply street tires
    8 Throw in one radiator (use the Diesel Radiator additive!!!) Three alternators and
    two (serpentine) belt tensioners (sp) - the latest one is designed much better.

    I learned. Do not go to Ford, find a good honest trained mechanic who "likes" diesels. In Savannah GA, I trust C & W Diesel Repair in Garden City.

    Do use the Ford or Carquest Diesel Radiator additive, and a fuel additive - Lucas is good, and throw in a little transmission fluid into your fuel every month or so. Keep your tires at 6-8 pounds below max ( 80 is max. for "E" rating). Change the oil after you've added the second quart (about 3 - 5 k miles between oil changes) And please use a HD Lucas Oil additive at each oil change and try to work your way up to Valvoline (Napa) straight 40 Weight oil in 5 gallon containers - you'll go 5 - 8 k
    between oil changes.
    Hope this helps. I wish I had a mechanical (diesel) background. This is from my
    experience and mechanics will smile and be happy to replace each injector (all 8)
    for $300. + a piece. Thanks for your time - jim
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