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At least you had better results than i had.I was 200 miles away when my tranny started acting up my dealer came and picked the truck up and it stayed in the shop for three weeks and then they had the balls to tell me that it looked like the tranny had water in it and that FORD WAS NOT GOING TO WARRANTY THE TRANNY.I have 2004 f250 harley davidson crew cab that has 24,000 miles on it and it has never even seen water or been put in 4 wheel drive.I have always owned ford and always wanted a f250 deisel.My truck started doing the exact same thing that you have posted 3 weeks ago.Ford sent some under writer over from Pensacola,FL that don't even work for them and that's the result that I got.Now my only option is to buy a tranny @5000.00 and have it put in until we go to court.You talk about getting screwed.Iwill tell anyone out there they had better really research the new f250's before they buy one.My truck has been in the shop 6 times for three different things and I still have a hunk of junk.I have had so many problems with my truck they give me a 5yr./ 75000 mile warranty.(I GUESS IT COVERS WHAT EVER THE HELL THEY WANT IT TO COVER) It looks like court is the only way the issue will be solved.SO WHOEVER READS THIS FILL FREE TO ASK ANY QUESTIONS.But there will never be another FORD in this driveway.I have e-mail your post to my lawyer and to the sales manager,service manager at the local dealership that for your post.By the way I looked at the tranny fluid and there are NO signs of water in it i'am sending it to a lab to analized.THANKS SHANE">
So, yes. This technique does work and it works very well.
kcram - Pickups Host
IMO, expensive mistake on their part.
Disconnect batteries again and give them a full charge. Then start looking for the power drain. You can do this with a test lamp, or a DC Current meter. Pull the fuses outta the panels and probe the sockets with the lamp. (There are fuses under the dash and also under the hood) The circuit(s) that are drawing power will light the lamp, or give a substantial reading on the meter. Some circuits, like the radio, and the computer will always have a small draw but it's not something that's gonna kill the batteries quickly.
Once you find a circuit that's drawing a lot of juice, then you can't start troubleshooting to figure what the cause is.
Happy hunting.
LINE-X and Rhino differ quite a bit. The biggest difference is that LINE-X contains polyurea and Rhino does not. Polyurea enhances the bedliner’s properties: 1. LINE-X's temperature tolerance is 250 degrees and Rhino's is 175. As the temperature of the bed approaches the temp tolerance, it loses its strength. 2. Polyurea keeps moisture out of the solution thus making a more dense and solid liner. Less moisture also means better adhesion. 3. Polyurea also makes for a tougher liner. The tear strength of LINE-X is 304 pounds per linear inch (pli). Rhino is 145 pli. 4. Polyurea sets up very fast, that's one reason why LINE-X goes on with heat and high pressure. LINE-X dries in about 4 seconds, so you get an even application throughout the bed. Rhino takes a minute or so to even gel, an hour or so to dry. Before it gels, gravity can pull the liner from the top ridges in to the low valleys. Rhino’s Tuff Stuff goes on cold/low pressure and thus has that “cottage cheese” or “rain on the windshield” look. LINE-X’s high heat/high pressure system gives it a very nice finished and more consistently applied texture, it’s sort of like an orange peel. The dealer can vary the texture from smooth to very rough. 5. Polyurea makes the liner more chemical resistant, especially to organic oils and solvents. 6. LINE-X offers a written NATIONWIDE lifetime warranty. Rhino’s warranty is only with the dealer that sprayed it.
LINE-X has a new product called LINE-X Xtra. Line-X-Xtra is the first product offering resulting from a partnership between Line-X and DuPont Performance Coatings. The spray-on high performance bedliner is a “new benchmark” in exclusive composite coatings, as it combines the world renown strengths of DuPont™ Urethane Technology and DuPont™ KEVLAR®. Line-X-Xtra features include improved appearance, improved resistance to ultraviolet light and excellent adhesion to the bedliner. In addition, Line-X-Xtra is specially formulated with DuPont™ KEVLAR® micro pulp fiber. Xtra is applied like a topcoat, but penetrates the entire liner
LINE-X has even other products, one is called Paxcon (www.paxcon.com). Paxcom has been sprayed inside the Pentagon, Federal Building in NY, and inside nuclear submarines. Also, LINE-X has been sprayed on over 50,000 of the titanium/ceramic bullet proof plates worn inside military vests. They are in use in Iraq and Afghanistan.
Hope that helps!
Thanks
kcram - Pickups Host
If you're really concerned about oil changes, do them every 3k miles and use dino oil. If you're still somewhat concerned, do them every 5k miles and still use dino oil. If you think the factory has your best interest in mind, then do them every 7.5k miles and use synthetic. If you want to fool with oil analysis and extended drain intervals - alot of owners, trucking companies and heavy equipment operators do this - then use a synthetic oil and let the analysis tell you when to change. You'd still need to change your filter at least every 7.5k miles doing this.
If you're going to use dino oil, then I recommend Shell Rotella-T. I first learned about this oil while working for a large trucking company. They would routinely put 1M miles on their trucks without any major engine repair. It was used in my own truck. It had 165k miles on it when I sold it this spring. The engine was still very clean on the inside. Infact, I decided to go with 5k mile changes by watching the color of my oil. My oil would still be clean and 3k miles and wouldn't start turning dark until around 4.5k miles. If you're going to use synthetic, I suggest Amsoil. It's terribly expensive, about $8/quart, but it's one of the best oils on the market. Some of the guys I know that do the extended oil changes use the Amsoil and go 20k miles between changes.
You'll have to decide what's best for you. You can't go wrong with regular dino oil and 3k mile changes, but that's an awful lot of oil in a years time.
Thanks for any help
Thanks
and since 4000 miles everyother weekend has been a 200 mile trip..with cruise set
at 72 MPH I've been getting 20-22 MPG..on the '04 I had the wait was to 15,000
miles before I got 20 MPG. They cleaned up their electronics alot. With fuel at
$2.97 a gallon this mileage came just in time. It's a 4X2 CC Shortbed w/Auto Trans..72 MPH is the power band on this one. Best Truck I've Ever Owned...
Thank you
Good luck with new truck - you need to buy diesel at a place that sells a lot of it - like a truck stop where the big rigs go. (You just can't use the pumps with the big high-flow fuel nozzles.) If you go to the local Quickie Mart that has only one diesel pump you could be asking for trouble. The fuel there may sit in the tank for several weeks or more - it can absorb water, and grow algae too. Water in the fuel will stop you quick. Algae can gum the fuel system up. Read the owners manual. Learn how to drain the fuel line water separator. Probably would be a good idea to change the fuel filter while you're at it. Also you could buy some diesel fuel additive (Power Test is one brand), It will absorb water in the fuel, kill off any algae, and lowers the fuel gel point.
Does it get real cold in the winter where you live?- Diesel fuel can gel and get thick and gummy in cold weather - Most places switch over to winter blend fuel which has a lower gel point - but you may have to help it with the additive. When starting truck in cooler weather, watch the "wait to start" light on the dash. This indicates when the glow plugs have sufficiently warmed the cylinders to allow it to start easier. It'll probably still start without waiting, but the motor will blow some black smoke and be a bit noisier for a little while - basically causes a little more wear & tear on the engine if you don't wait for the 20-30 seconds after turning the key. If winter temps in you area go below 0, you should probably plug in your engine block heater. (If your truck was originally shipped to a northern state you should find an electric cord and plug tucked up somewhere behind right front bumper) Will make starting in the morning much easier.
2002 was the last full model year for the 7.3L Powerstroke engine, and by that time they'd worked all of the little kinks outta the engine. One thing to be aware of is the coolant. Those engines had a small problem with coolant cavitation - little vaccuum bubbles occur in coolant flow - when bubbles occur next to cylinder wall they cause little hot spots - over a lot of miles >>100K - the cavitation can cause erosion of the back of the cylinder walls. There's a coolant additive you need to add to your coolant that prevents this - one of them is called Stanadyne. A lot of folks don't know or don't care about the coolant, but it is important for longevity of that engine - they can easily go 300-400K miles before needing any major work.
Be good about changing the oil. Powerstroke oil changes aren't cheap - it's around 15-16 quarts. Use only oil that's rated for Diesel Engines - good choice is Shell Rotella-T - don't use oil that's made for gasoline engines or you could regret it. The engine uses the oil to help pressurize and run the fuel injection system. The wrong type of oil or dirty oil can damage your injectors - it's a very costly repair! Follow the manual oil change intervals, and change the oil filter each time too.
As far as mileage - you don't say the body style or whether it's a 4x2 or 4x4, standard or automatic. Diesel mileage varies. Some get only 12-13 mpg, yet someone else with identical truck report 18-20 mpg on the highway. Depends on the trucks configuration, how you drive, how it's loaded, and also how the trucks engine control computer has been flashed.
Only sorta weak point with the truck is the automatic transmission - diesel can put out a lot of torque - some folks had premature transmission failures - but they usually beat the heck outta their trucks...... Many added supplemental transmission coolers to help with towing.
Hope this helps
kcram - Pickups Host
Recently, the problem went from intermittent to full time. Every time I turn the key, I hear the relay repeatedly latching and un-latching very quickly, the engine turns over fine but the truck will not start. The batteries are fully charged. I have not located the relay behind the dash (somewhere near the radio) from the sounds of it; however I found that the "Injector Driver Module Relay" in the power distribution box is doing the same thing. I replaced this relay and have the exact same symptoms leading me to believe that something is shorting out the relay.
I don't want to start swapping parts if I don't need to, and I really don’t want to take it to the shop. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :sick:
I just started experiencing acceleration problems with my 2003 F250 SD 6.0 Diesel. I am not sure if it is a TURBO problem, Transmission problem or some type of electrical module etc. It does not happen all the time though. The symptom is that when I for example go to pass someone the RPM's increase but there is NO power. The speed of the vehicle SLOWLY increases. Does not seem like it is down shifting or that the TURBO is not engaging. Anyone hear of or experience similar problems? Vehicle has 39,000 miles. I am also NEW to Diesels.
Note: Really noticed it yesterday morning. However Yesterday afternoon when leaving work it operated just fine. Plenty of power. Again this morning, NO power and same problem experienced.
What you Do have to make sure of is that you change your fuel filter after a few fill-ups if you've run petroleum diesel in the past. The fuel will scrub your tank and lines and likely foul your filter. After the first change, assuming you run bio consistently thereafter, it should not be a problem.
One other point: technically, Ford has not approved the use of bio fuel any greater than B5, or 5% bio/95% petrol blend. In Virginia, I routinely see B20 at truckstops and can purchase blends as high as B99 at ag facilities (they have to blend some in order to offer the $1/gallon tax break; without this, biodiesel would not be competitive). It all works fine, but might get some strange looks from service people and get them to try and slip out of the warranty coverage. (Just tank up with regular before taking it into the shop!)
Oh, and BioD will gel at low temp. You do not want a tank of anything greater than B50 in cold weather.
I'm a newbie to working on my truck and was wondering if anyone can tell me how easy it is change the fuel filter on the F250 Diesel. Assuming it is, what are the steps?
Thanks!
(This is related to my biodiesel post earlier. You have to change your filter after you start using it and I want to avoid the service fees for what should be an easy thing to do myself.)
S
directions for draining water from the Fuel Control Module.
It shows a lever that you move to drain the water. My vehicle has
no lever. The salesman told me there is a plug you take out.
Does anyone know where I could obtain the correct directions
for draining the water?
kcram - Pickups Host
I can see a plug with a allen wrench
hole in it but it faces the side. Twards the drive shaft. I am really
mystified as to why these for weines do not put the correct
directions in the manual. I checked a neighbor and his 2006
manual still shows the lever that you move to let the water out.
My neighbor ran his last Diesel 165 K and said all he ever did was
change the filters. Never a water light. I am sure that if you use a
good fuel supply you will not get water but sometimes you have no
choice. Thanks again and I will start carrying a 6mm allen wrench
with me just in case. Wonder if there is a place on the web that
you can get the correct directions with some illustrations :confuse: