Ford F-250 Owners

fordf250xlt4x4 · October 2006

Anyone have any idea where to start? My father, bless his heart, wanted to get my old truck repaired (about ten years ago). We had the engine rebuilt and then he took it to an Auto Body guy that has basically sat on it for the last nine (years). I viewed it last winter and it has been inside (at least) appears to have all the parts. I would like to get it restored. We live in the OH/KY/IN area.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated

bf

pbrooner · October 2006

I need help. When driving at idle, slow and or highway speeds the engine rpm changes by as much as 200rpm with out a change in the accelerator position. The engine also will start loping when coasting to a stop or some times when setting at a stop and just idling. I have the ERG changed. The dealer claims that it is the oversized tires. 35". I don't think so. I am getting frustrated.

jneal · October 2006

Try changing the throttle position sensor. Most common cause of that sort of problem.

Dealer is nuts....if it's sitting still and idling the tires can have no effect at all.

bufit · October 2006

Hello all,
I am looking to purchase a used F250 PSD, between 03 and 05. I have been told to stay far far away from the 04's. Is this true that the 04's had to many engine problems with the 6.0? Or was the problem corrected with programming? I just passed up an 02 7.3 in hopes of finding a little newer addition to the family for the next 8 or 9 years. Any advice is appreicated.

wpalkowski · October 2006

Actually, it was the '03, 6.0L POwer Stroke Diesel that had a whole slew of birthing pains. A lot of them finally got straightened out by Ford, but there were also many that got bought back as lemons and then sold later at auction. Depending on the laws in the state where they were resold, the lemon designation may not have been required to stay with the title of the truck.. SO in the Halloween Spirit: BEWARE OF THE '03 POWERSTROKE

By to mid to late '03 Ford had sorted out the engine problems, but if you really want a 6.0L, to be safe you'd run much lower risk of buying a real pain in the butt problem if you bought an '04 or newer. Also consider an '02, or early '03, 7.8L Powerstroke - those engines had all the kinks worked out.

cclink · November 2006

during the last 6 months i have had various episodes of power loss while driving. recently took off fuel filter and black stuff finally came out....even with new filter it is still bogging down to where i cant get over 3-5 mph offten stalls out..looking for guidence in changing fuelpump and or cleaning tank????? 843-364-3942

wpalkowski · November 2006

Gas or Diesel powered motor?

mschmal · November 2006

How much do you think about the gas you put into your car?

We think gas is a commodity, but is it?

Check out www.toptiergas.com

Mark.

briannz · November 2006

Hi, I'm in NZ and I own a F250 7.3L diesel Powerstroke Supercab 4x4. I've done 67,000 kms so far and this truck has run like a bird. Can't fault it. It pulls a large trailer. I imported a Bankspower big bore exhaust system and superchipped it up one stage. I've also imported the underseat storage units - all from the States. The truck was built in Mexico, Right hand drive for the NZ and Australian market. I previously owned a Chevy Tahoe 96 6.5L diesel and this truck was not a patch on the ford.

I'm extremely satisfied with my truck, but am interested in knowing mileage to rebuild on powerstroke and the transmission. When can I expect to have to do the rebuild? So far this truck has not cost a cent (hope I'm not tempting fate!) in repairs.

What is the average life prior to rebuild for these components - tranny and engine.

Cheers

Brian
NZ

jneal · November 2006

As you know, anything mechanical can break at any time, new or old, but assuming proper care and feeding with the mileage you have I think you can look forward to many more kms of driving.

wpalkowski · November 2006

I'm hearing of the 7.8L Powerstroke going 500K kilometers before needing a rebuild. Tranny's are another story - depending on how they're used (ie. heavy towing) they may need an overhaul after only 175K K.

paintman · November 2006

How can I tell if my f250 has 4 wheel abs or just abs on the rear?

tuneman9 · November 2006

Hello everybody, I'm new here. I just found this place with a search because I wanted to ask a few questions about my new truck. Well, it's new to me anyway! It's 2005 F-250 Lariat FX4. It has the 5.4L in it with 3.73's and according to the computer it getting 9.8 mpg. Is the info screen in the dash entirely accurate?
I have been told that it may take awhile but it may increase. The truck had 7600 miles on it when I bought it and now has 9200. That 9.8 is actually up from when I first got it but not by much. I think it was 9.4 when I test drove it. I am being told of other people in other trucks with the same size engine that they are getting in the teens. The engine runs great and there doesn't seem to be a problem with the vehicle but it seems kind of low for normal driving (not towing) which is kind of scary because I bought it to tow a 26' Jayco @7100#. I opted out of a V-10 or Diesel because I don't tow all the time with it. OK next question. The TBC on the the newer Super Dutys, mine does not have it. I found the controller w/ the replacement master cylinder online for $399. Has anyone bought one of the trucks without it and then put one in yourself? Changing the master cyl. doesn't look hard and the controller is a plug-in deal. Ford is telling me that I need to have it re programmed so that the truck will recognize it. They only want $900 for the whole thing plus install. Is it worth it?
I am using a Tekonsha Voyager at present and it works but it's in the way. I like the integrated one better. I have been told that there is no comparison between the OEM and aftermarket. Thanks in advance any info will be greatly appreciated. Sorry for such a lengthy post. tuneman

mschmal · November 2006

The integrated TBC is uniquely different from any after market unit because it runs off of the Master Brake Cylinder, NOT the brake light circuit. The OEM can also recognize when you engage ABS on the truck and will fade off the trailer brakes slightly so that you don't lock them.

I know some after market units "claim" to be proportional. Not sure if its worth $900 if you are not towing that frequently.

As for your MPG, the F-150 is rated for like 14 city, 19 highway, The F-250 is a bigger heavier brick to push through the wind, plus the different gearing. If you drive over 65, you will never get good MPG. If you get up to 12 overall average, that is good.

Mark.

lzrdking98 · November 2006

congrats on your purchase. However, that is all I have favorable to say. Your MPG is way off. Something is wrong. Your computer should read city 14 0r 15 and highway as much as 20mpg. As for the towing, I would not have purchased the 5.4l gas model. I would have selected the bullet proof tow anything diesel 6.0L model. You are going to have trouble down the road. Diesels tow stuff not gas. Also, your 26' trailer is more than 7100lbs. Those stickers that show the weight of your coach are bare bones and not loaded numbers. They are not accurate. You are pushing the limits for that motor. Good luck. I would sell and buy a diesel. I have the 2006 f250 6l and I get 18-20mpg and 14 towing.

powerstroke00 · November 2006

I have a 2000 F-250 with a 7.3L and for the last week or so it has made a one of a kind roar out of the exhaust. Now i am a fan of a loud exhaust but this sound has to mean trouble. I also noticed that when I really accelerate that my wastegate is not letting out the air from the turbo, so that seems to be the noise I hear from the exhaust. The sound is a higher pitch than normal and is a good bit louder. Also i noticed that when my wategate would normally blowoff instead I am just getting my check engine light flashing at me. Anyone had this problem or have any suggestions? Thanks for any help.

easton4 · December 2006

My Dad purchased a 2007 250 Crew Cab LWB two wheel drive XL with the automatic yesterday. Will the 6.0 motor be dependable considering everything you current owners have discussed and learned over years? Where can I find a site that discloses the number of problems documented by the manufacturers, Navistar and Ford? Thank You for any helpful advise!

vern14 · December 2006

Hey, I just bought a '99 7.3L PSD 4x4 with 137K on it. I am wondering what general maintence I should do on it. I figure a oil change is a no brainer. I changed the air filter, should I change the fuel filter? Also it has been cold here this last week and even though I plug it in I still have issues starting it, the engine has a hard time getting up to the operating RPM range. it kicks out a good deal of exhuast as well.
Any ideas or thoughts on this issue???
Thanks

wpalkowski · December 2006

Just remember that on this truck an oil change with the filter is about 16 quarts, and you've got to use an oil that's rated for diesel operation like Shell Rotella-T.

By all means change the fuel filter, and don't forget to drain the fuel line water separator. Since it's cold where you live you should also get winter diesel fuel additive - it prevents diesel fuel from gelling on cold days and preventing your diesel motor from running. Most service station switch over to winter blend diesel that resist gelling, but the fuel additive is extra insurance. The additives also inhibit algae growth in your fuel tank.

Also, get some coolant test strips. They're used to measure the concentration of the anti-cavitation additive in the radiator. Cavitation is small bubbles in the coolant along side the cylinder walls - they expand and cause hot spots on the cylinder - over time they cause erosion of the metal. That's not good if you want to keep the truck for a long time.

On the subject of cold days. When you turn on the key - the "Wait to Start" light turns on - that shows that the glow plugs are warming the cylinders. Wait for the full 20 seconds, and then try to start. You may even want to cycle the glow plugs a couple more times to warm things up more. If the engine's been warmed with the glow plugs, it usually starts fairly easily, and doesn't kick out all that much smoke. Just a thought though, if waiting to start doesn't help the rough starting, then check to see if your Glow Plug relay is working. That's one of those items that seems to wear out after 100k miles. It's a cheap fix that makes a world of difference in the winter.

Good luck and have fun with the new truck. That motor is just about broken in.

kwk3 · December 2006

I've been a private sport fishing boat captain for over twenty years and have operated boats with diesel engines from six to sixteen cylinders. With the older two cycle engines, keeping the block heaters on even in mild tempatures made starting alot easier and almost eliminated exhaust smoke. Also I've been told that with warm oil wear on some or many internal parts is greatly reduced.

I have a 2004 6.0L superduty. My question is would there be any benefit to having my block heater on even in mild climate (keeping the engine/oil warm) as there is with the two cycle marine engines???????

Kenny

shovel · December 2006

My 1988 F250 4x4 460 auto has stopped pumping fuel to the fuel rail. Relay is working when the key is turned on and activating the high pressure pump on the frame but I am not hearing the tank pump at all. Please note that the rear tank has not worked in several years , so I have been using the front tank only. Before I pull the pump to replace it is there any place I should check before doing this ? Isnt the low pressure tank pump powered through an oil pressure activated circuit? I have also replaced the filter.

wpalkowski · December 2006

Block heater's draw like 1000W or 1200W of power. The money you save by not paying the Electric Company would probably pay for most of your engine rebuild 350K miles down the road.

jutahh1 · December 2006

My 99 F250 V-10 (80,000) will crank but won't fire up. All fuses ok, fuel pump ok, but not getting any spark. COP's primary resistance is .9 ohms. Could it be something cheap like an ignition switch or MAP or god forbid a computer problem ? Have an AEM intake but everything else is OEM. Probly need a diagnostic test to determine the problem.

lyverst · December 2006

My 2006 F-250 (5.4L) when full reads 1/8th tank low, when 20 of the 29 gal are burned the tank then reads empty. This is a real problem as the odometer then stops working, the low fuel light comes on in the place of the odometer. Three trips to the service department and they blame it on fuel additives. They tried to fix it by adding their oun additive (no joy)? I'm told there are 4 trucks at the same dealership in for the same reason?? You would have thought Ford would have at lease had a stand alone low fuel light that did not disable the odometer. I have to fill the tank every three days (even though I still have 1/3 of a tank left) as there is no way to tell.

pcmedic · December 2006

I have a 2004 diesel with many problems that seemed to be fixed now. This time I had no acceration and lots of smoke. :lemon: I just picked up my truck from the dealer and they have replaced my oil cooler and EGR cooler. Everything seems ok for now.

saltydog73 · December 2006

I have a 1991 F250 7.3L Diesel that has decided to stop starting... hopefully, someone here can make some suggestions. When I try to start the truck, the solenoid clicks once and then everything electrical dies. I had the starter bench tested at AutoZone and they say that it is fine, as are the batteries (tested also). I connect the two battery wires to the solenoid and leave it hanging rather than connecting it the fly wheel... one solenoid click and nothing. I replaced the stupid "Ford" solenoid on the fender of the truck (I don't know why Ford insists on two solenoids but that can be for another post) - one click solenoid and nothing. I took a jumper cable and went between the + post of one battery and the corresponding post on the starter's solenoid... this time I get one solenoid click, a few (5-6) cranks and then nothing. The wire on the jumper cable heats up and starts melting the plastic sheath (I think if it was heavy enough gauge that jumping the battery to the solenoid would work). My dad tells me to check all the cable connections (+/- wires)... I checked and cleaned all the (+) connections with a wire wheel on a grinder or sandpaper so they are all clean (bare metal). I didn't check or clean the engine or frame grounds because I think that if I had a ground issue, my battery to starter solenoid jumping would produce the same results as without the jumping... I did nothing to the ground when I run the jumper cable. My next option is to replace the battery cables... I call Ford and they want $300 for the cables (are you f-ing kidding me? I understand copper is expensive but how does the dealership justify that price?), AutoZone wants $110... note about the cable; the (-) cables are pretty standard, the (+) cable is connected to the left-hand battery, runs to the right-hand battery, and then splits. From here, one wire (16 gauge) goes to the "Ford" fender solenoid and then goes to the starter solenoid; the other wire (4 gauge) goes to another post on the starter solenoid. I am going to wait until Tuesday to see how much a battery shop can make the cable for me, but before I do that, am I missing something that I can check or change? Could my jumper between the (+) on one terminal to the starter solenoid really work if I had a ground issue? Again, when I do this, all the battery wires are connected as they would be from the dealership. I generally drive the truck to tow my boat only; this all happened when I took it for a drive (ran about 20 min) and then turned it off outside of a store... hasn't started since.

msoard · December 2006

i saw your message about your fuel pump problem with your 250 and wonder wether i am in the same boat. i have a 99 f250, 5.8L triton, and have had several situations out on the highway where i have experienced significant loss of power and couldn't get the speed much over 40--lots of shaking and shimmying if i gave it gas.

did you get your problem fixed and was it your fuel pump? and how difficult/expensive to fix?

thanks for any advise!

guest · December 2006

Have a 1999 F-250SD, 7.3L Diesel...Last week I had two injectors go out at the same time, number 4 & number 7.Now I have had big rigs for years and never had this happen...Why would this happen in my pickup truck...showed now signs of any problem...Been using oil additive and fuel additive with new ULSD fuel. Could this be the problem /the new fuel..??

blacksmoke6 · January 2007

:confuse: I own an 01 F-250, when i bought it, it had 67k on it. Now I have 79k on it and am on my 3rd clutch master cylinder. Has anyone else had this same problem? Does anyone have a solution to the problem? The only ones i can find are made of cheap plastic. Someone please help me with my problem

stan_top_down · January 2007

Had a similar problem with my 2001 7.3L Diesel. Had it hauled to the Ford dealer because it was under extended warranty. Unfortunately the warranty did not cover the damage done by a squirrel that had taken up residence in the engine compartment. $700 worth of re-wiring later, the truck now works fine!

orvin1 · January 2007

Can anyone suppy info on lifters in the 7.3l power stroke? I have recently detected a noticeable tapping noise and was told that it is due to a lifter. What remedies are available and possible $ outlay.

keroburner · January 2007

I have a 2004 F250 Super Duty with the 6 liter diesel. I recently added an EGT gauge and a turbo boost gauge. I tow an 8,000 lb. toy hauler. At highway speeds on flat ground the boost runs about 10 lbs. and the exhaust gas temp. about 800 degrees. Pulling a hill, the boost goes to 30 lbs. and the EGT up to 1,000 degrees. I don't know what is a normal range and Ford won't answer my question. Anyone know what these specs should be?

wpalkowski · January 2007

Your truck is configured from factory to run around those levels. IF you start chipping it and changing the operating parameters, then your boost and EGTs will rise more You can spike your EGTs to 1200-1400 deg for short bursts and run your truck all day long @1000 degrees with no issues.

If the turbo is real hot when you're going to shut down, you just can't shut off the truck - the oil stops pumping and the heat will degrade the oil sitting in the turbo and possibly over time cause premature bearing wear. You need to run the truck on level streets or idle it for a while to keep the oil circulating while the temperatures go down. When it gets around 300-400 degrees you can shut off safely. SHould only take a few minutes.

scooter06 · January 2007

i just bought a 03 super duty super cab 4x4 with 6.0 i tow a 5x8 trailer with maybe i ton of tools in it but towing or empty i can only get 12 to 13 thats city and hwy driving does that sound right i was hoping for more and should i run the 40 centain or 45 i love this truck but iam thinking about chipping it for more mpg whats the best safe way to do it ?

trucklady2007 · January 2007

This is my very first diesel truck and it has only 150 miles on it so far. Picked it up last week and noticed a shimmy approaching 55 that evened out at 60. The steering wheel shook moderately.
Its a basic 5 speed manual quadcab shortbed needed to haul a 25 foot travel trailer. Doesn't have a hitch yet either...any advice on where to go to get one put on?
thanks ..glad I found this forum!

pfcgiloif3 · January 2007

i have a 99 f-250 7.3 liter diesel and when i get up tp speed the truck chokes out and shuts off then i have to wait a few min to restart it and then i can only go a few feet till it does it again not sure whats wron ive had some people say fuel fillter and some say turbo i would really appriceate any help really dont want to have to pay for some one to tow it and then try and fix

pfcgiloif3 · January 2007

i was wondering if it was the cam position sensor that was causing your problem for i have the same stalling problem

stan_top_down · January 2007

The truck shouldn't shimmy - have the dealer check both the alignment & the wheel balance (be sure they check the balance on the spare, too).

Per a hitch, if you don't have a reputable local aftermarket shop (ask around work -- they'd proabably also sell running boards & bumpers, too), you can always go to U-Haul.

Hope the truck gives you many miles of pleasant driving. My 2001 hauls a 25' 3000lb travel trailer very well - at 65mph (no wind, no hills) I get about 12mpg - but mine is the 7.3L engine - yours is the 6.0.

Best,

Stan

scooter06 · January 2007

I love my f250 03 SD 6.0 4X4 supercab also but iam only getting around 12 TO 14 mph hwy&city what should this truck get? and will premium help anything ?

slowburnsteve1 · January 2007

I am looking a buying a 95 f-250, it has, what the current owner tell me as a transmision issue, he is not really sure. My question is, can I identify the trans from the vin code? I am thinking of getting and rebuilding the tranny,

mowerman2 · January 2007

I am looking a buying a 94 f250. It is my understanding that the engine is a 5.8 litre 351. But the pics I have of the truck have the factory dual exhaust behind the right rear wheel. I thought only the 460 had the dual exhaust from the factory like this. Am I right or not. Thanks.

trucklady2007 · January 2007

Stan

Bingo!! Dealer checked it and they had released the truck to us without checking the tire pressure in all the tires.
We found a local shop that will be installing the tow hitch and equalizer for a trailer.
It is dubbed "The Hog" now...for the Arkansas Razorbacks!

Thanks for your response.

Donna

dfern · January 2007

Hi All!

Hopefully someone can help me regarding towing capacity. I am considering purchasing a used F250, and looking at the 1990 model year as a target. I intend to use it to tow a 21-foot boat (total weight of boat + trailer about 6000 pounds). I have been searching the web for some info regarding the towing capacity of the F250 as a function of model year, engine size, etc. Can someone give me the 50 cent tour of F250 towing capacity and if 1990 is a good year to purchase?

Thank you!

David

stan_top_down · January 2007

Welll --

I'm not sure I approve of the name - my wife & I are both Badgers (UW), and both my kids are Longhorns.

Oh well.

Drive it lots of miles in good health. Maybe we'll end up in the same campground somewhere down the road.

You're welcome -

Stan

stan_top_down · January 2007

I'd look at the towing capacity for the currently sold F250's with the closest engine size to the one you're considering buying.

If you're looking at a gas engine, 1990 engines were fuel injected just like today's are, so torque & horsepower should be fairly close, based on engine displacement. If you're looking at a Diesel, for sure you'll have enough power.

Certainly a 3/4 ton truck (the F250) should be capable of hauling a 6000 Lb trailer, depending on engine size.

It would probably be a good idea to have trailer brakes, though.

Good luck!

Stan

lzrdking98 · January 2007

Very good advice Stan. Either way you should have enough power to tow a trailer that is 6000lbs. The diesel is better suited, but the gas will be fine. Stan hit it on the head with trailer brakes. I prefer the Prodigy. Very reliable and easy to install. Good luck.

Troy

scpayne · January 2007

I just purchased a Ford F250 Super Duty and would like to do some mods to it. I am not the most knowledgeable person when it comes to working on cars and trucks so any suggestions would be much appreciated!!!

keroburner · January 2007

You don't say what engine you have. If you plan engine mods and it is a 6-liter diesel, be careful. This engine is known to blow head gaskets and adding a power chip might push it over the edge. Some after-market air filters can also cause problems. I have a 2004 F250 with the 6-liter. I added a Banks 4" cat-back exhaust with a straight through muffler and dropped the exhaust temps 200 degrees but I am reluctant to do anything else.

scooter06 · January 2007

hey keroburner i have a 03 6.0 4x4 supercab i feel the same about not chiping it because i dont want too mess up this complicated motor plus its all the power i need already but i only get between 13 and 15 mpg .did the exhaust change help yours if so what was it and what is it now?

ladiestruck · January 2007

I am in the last stages of buying a '03 v10 super duty crew cab. The offer is too good to pass up, but that is why I am concerned. I know and trust the dealer, and dont think he would stear me wrong. My concern is that I have owned some lemons :lemon: (mostly chevy's, by insistance of my husband). I now have the chance to change his chevy lovin mind, but dont want another problem vehicle. I have researched the rig, but get a lot of mixed reviews. I dont care about MPG or really even towing compasity for what I tow maybe 10 times a year. I want to know that the engine is reliable (this ones got 62,000 on it) and that the tranny holds up (had to replace the suburban's once, and I thinks its about to go again) Any good advise out there? :confuse:
Thanks
Tammy

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