Ford F-250 Owners

halfevil · January 2007

Love mine ...... I have a 2000 f250 sd 7.3 ex cab 4x4 i live in oklahoma and we just got all this ice and i have pulled approximatly 30 cars and suvs out of the ditch all the will having no trouble at oll getting around my self with the weight of the truck and the way it handels i woulldnt have any other truck

lzrdking98 · January 2007

I would becareful with your mods. For one, you may void any warranties ford may have and the other, you may screw up your rig. Many of the chips increase turbo boost pressures which have been known to cause head gasket problems and turbo hoses blow off. I would leave the rig alone until I spoke with the dealer and found out what modifications they will honor if something goes wrong. Good luck

Troy

wpalkowski · January 2007

I have an '01 that's got 47K. No problems up to this point. I put a transmission temp gauge in it, and never let fluid get too hot (>200 degrees F) when towing.

Only a couple issues with Ford Modular engines. First is the thickness of the aluminum cylinder head. Spark plugs are only held on with 4-5 threads. There have been a low percentage of vehicles where the plug gets blown outta the block. Dealers repair it by replacing the top of the engine $$$. You can also fix it with heli-coil. Personally I think this problem may be the result of limited/poor maintenance. Plug may have loosened up, but no one ever checked it, it eventually loosens to the point where it get blown out of the block - damaging the head. Wouldn't hurt to pull the spark plugs every year or so, check them, put some anti-seize on the threads and then torque them to proper spec. It's just a pain (knuckle buster) to get to a couple of the plugs at the back of th engine.

Other somewhat common problem with V10 is Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). They tend to go after 3-4 years. Symptom - truck stalls at traffic light or when idling. Only way to keep it going is to keep your foot on the gas. Eventually, it gets to point where you can't keep the truck running. It's like about a $150-$200 repair.

Ball joints are also a little less robust than they could be on a "super duty" truck. Ford cheaped out a bit, and didn't put on ball joints with grease fittings. So the original ones tend to wear out a little faster than I'd like.

Aside from that, a Ford Super Duty with a V10 is great truck. Absolutely no regrets, and I will be keeping mine until it literally falls apart. Plenty of power to carry a load or pull a trailer. The V10 make my truck a blast to drive when it's empty. I surprise a lot of folks with how fast my Crew Cab, Long Bed 4x4 can take off from a light. I just don't do it that often when gas goes above $3/gallon.

ninham · January 2007

I just brought home a 2001 F250. I read the owners manual on how to engage the 4 X 4. I've tried turning the locking hubs dial on the front axle, but it will not budge just using my hands. Should I use a pair of pliers, is there a key for this that I need to get or am I overlooking something else? Appreciate assistance in advance.

mschmal · January 2007

This engine is way to complicated. You will blow out your head gasket, your injector pump, your turbo, or any number of pieces.

Ford does not cover under warranty any damage caused by a modification.

Mark.

ladiestruck · January 2007

thanks for your reply pf_fler,
I did by the truck drove it for the first distance trip (about 75 miles round trip) I love how it handles on the interstate, little harder keeping it between the lines in the city. I live in Montana and we usually get quite a bit of snow-this year has been different. Im glad to hear they handle well on the ice. My SUV seemed to slide around a good amount of the time. What IS the average MPG?

ladiestruck · January 2007

Thank you for all the great advise. I will definately keep the spark plug thing in mind. I will check them soon and regularly-sounds like an expensive fix if I dont.
Is the IAC something easy to replace on ones own, or does it need to be done by the manufacturer- we dont really care for our ford dealer/technician.
I found out how easily this thing can take off from a stop light. I previously owned a suburban that needed a good romp on the gas to get through some of the quick lights around here, I was unfortunately used to this and did the same with the truck this morning (this was the first time I REALY drove it) and spun the tires, throwing gravel up on the car behind me.

wpalkowski · January 2007

You can change out the IAC on your own. Hope you have some sort of work stand or ladder - it's hard to get to while standing on the ground (at least with my 4x4).
Recommend buying the Helm shop manual:

http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class%5F2=FCT&mk=Ford+%26+Lincoln+Mercu- ry&yr=2003&md=F%2D250+Pickup&dt=Shop%2FService+Information&module=&from=result&S- tyle=&Sku=FCS1210703&itemtype=N&mscsid=SDDBHQW5PDDW8PU2JN7VP6GW1TB6EA67

They're expensive but well worth it.

p10leadman · January 2007

I have struggled to love this truck for several years, I have invested thousands of $$ to keep it on the road -
$1400 for ac, $1700 for a rebuilt tranny, $2200 for a reconditioned engine and the exhaust is a yearly thing.The 2 small pipes going to the cat.convertor last less than a year-any suggestions on that ??

Now both gas tanks are leaking- I got a quote of over $200.oo for each tank, plus labor and straps, ect- Also the oil pressure just dropped to the lowest bar of "Normal" and sits there. I changed the oil and filter today and nothing changed- next is the pressure sensor, after that ???

OK- where can I buy gas tanks for this beast?
what are the sizes or part numbers?

1993 4x4 ac, pS, 5.8L automatic, 122,995 miles rear tank and saddle tank
I get 8 MPG and that does not change if I have it in 4 wheel drive snow plowing, or driving down the summer highway, or with my 3/4 ton camper on it- the rear end seems geared real low...

any answers and / or suggestions would help?
p10leadman@yahoo.com

:sick:

scooter06 · February 2007

i have a 03 6.0 4x4 super duty supercab runs good but the mpg is 12 to 15 and you need a football field to turn it around other that that its a good truck

keroburner · February 2007

I have an '04 6-liter, I get 17-18 mpg empty, and 11-12 hauling my 8,000 lb. toy hauler at 70 mph. Might be a difference in rear axle ratio, mine is 3.73 with a 6-spd. stick.

scooter06 · February 2007

I have a automatic i dont know what size rear how can you tell?

keroburner · February 2007

I have the window sticker listing truck's options, but I think there is a metal tag on the differential.

jimmj43 · February 2007

I recently fell into a "helluva deal" that I couldn't pass up before a bidding war started. '91 F-150 XLT EFI 5.0, auto tranny, with 102Kmiles and loaded. No mention was made of a radiator/cooling system leak and I failed to ask. Turns out there's a leaky head gasket and the previous owner treated it as a minor "coolant leak" by introducing stop leak and refilling with nice clean antifreeze (when I test drove it).
Oil level was a little low and kinda dirty (but not milky), and the truck had sat idle for 3 months so I thought little of the few droplets of water I saw beaded on the oil dipstick. Driving the 30 miles home I noticed the temp gauge needle was acting intermittently erratic, but I chalked it up to a loose connection on the temp sensor.
I got a can of K&W Block Sealer as well as a can of flushing solution and I've been in the process of drain-refill-run-drain-refill-run, etc. <--this has been time-consuming because I KNOW the cooling system capacity is 12 qts but I've only been able to drain about 8 qts per drain operation. The K&W product has VERY specific instructions, including the demand that the flushing should continue "until the coolant is CLEAN and CLEAR". In browsing under the hood today I spotted a nice Craftsman screwdriver lurking under some hoses near the firewall on the passenger side. I manipulated it from its hiding place only to discover that it was being used to plug a vacuum line!! Where's it go? The routing direction and length of the hose led me to a point between the heater blower motor and the firewall very near to the inside edge of the fender. There I saw what appears to be a plastic fitting that had broken off nearly flush to the housing it's mounted to. I'm guessing an elbow got broken off. The device the broken remnant is attached to is a diaphram-type device with linkage attached to a short swing-arm. <--I'm GUESSING this arrangement might be to select either fresh air or recirculate cab air or somesuch.
Here's a link to a photo: <a href="http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/8048/vachose01ck3.jpg" target=_blank>link title
I'd like to (a) know what that apparently broken device is & does, and (b) whether it's going to take major surgery to replace (or is an epoxy jury-rig an option) and, (c) where I can lay my mits on a comprehensive vacuum line diagram - preferably online and free. <--Fixed income blues.
For extra point, anybody know how to go about COMPLETELY draining the coolant without removing hoses, etc?
Thanks

trukin250 · February 2007

i have a 1975 f-250 2wd. i am wanting to make it 4wd but dont know what to do, help?

jneal · February 2007

As you have no idea how to start on this conversion the best and easiest thing to do is to convert the old truck into cash and buy a 4-wheel drive truck. Probably the cheapest route also....

noodysfool · February 2007

how much did that cost and will it void the warranty?

p10leadman · February 2007

well, nobody replied to the gas tank issues, so I guess I ain't the dummy I thought ! anyway in reference to the guy who wants to make his 2 wheel to 4 wheel- the advise give was correct- covert it to cash, and buy one- it would be almost an insane project.
The gas milage issue is correct the rear axle ratio is the key- and yes, there is a wonderful ford idea- make the tag out of alumimum, and that way it'll friggin ROT off in a few years- Yet most tranny specialist will be able to figure it out. Mine is geared so low I bet I could pull a Destroyer, and still get my standard 8MPG. And YES- it takes a good football field to turn the sucker around, and It is not a crew cab or super cab- those I think take a airport runway to turn around. Yet, I love this truck !

lzrdking98 · February 2007

less than 300 bucks and yes it will void the warranty according to the ford truck manual.

cole91 · February 2007

I have an 03 5.4 V8. Already changed the tranny and torque converter. Now when I brake I hear a small low "dunk" and feel a vibration under the driver floor board. I have checked the ball joints. Changed the brake pads, calipors and rotors. Noise still there! Any advice?

wpalkowski · February 2007

When my pads were new they'd shift a couple of millimeters in the calipers when I stepped on the brake and make slight clunk noise. After a few weeks, some dirt/brake dust built up and the noise stopped.

Had another problem with my crew cab F350 was new :confuse: - the cab mounting bolts weren't torqued properly. Kept getting clunking noises on braking, turns, etc. Made me nuts trying to find it, but dealer recognized it right away and had it fixed in about 90 minutes.

zekebz71 · February 2007

I HAVE A 2001 F 250 4X4 AND I HAVE A CLUNKING NOISE IN MY FRONT END. THOUGHT IT WAS THE TIE RODS COMMING FROM THE GEAR BOX TO THE PASSENGER TIRE. CHANGED THAT AND NOISE STILL THERE. I ONLY HEAR IT WHEN I HIT BUMPS. COUPLE OF PEOPLE I TALKED TO SAID THEY HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM AND BLAMED THE SHOCK MOUNTS BUT AS ON MINE THEY WERE TIGHT. IM LOST. ALSO CAN YOU MANUALLY TURN THE TURBO UP ON THE TRUCK WITHOUT BUYING A SUPER CHIP? I HAVE A BOOST GAGE ON IT AND WHEN ON THE INTERSTATE RUNNING 75 I GET 5 TO 6 LBS. WHEN I GET ON THE TROTTLE IT HITS 15 BUT I THINK I CAN GET MORE LBS AND MORE POWER.

zekebz71 · February 2007

I SHOULD HAVE MENTIONED IT HAS A 7.3 DIESEL IN IT

cajuncountry · February 2007

I am looking at buying a 2005 Ford F250 Crew Cab 4x4 XLT with the 5.4 liter with 34700 miles. I went look at the dealership on Friday and needless to say it is in my driveway now for a "weekend" test drive. So far I can say that I truly enjoy this truck, it has every option I can think of except leather. The only worry is the 5.4 engine. So far I have no complaints about the engine but everyone says I would get it if it were a diesel. This is my intentions with this truck. I will use occassionaly as a daily driver but not often. Will tow a 5000 pound camper usually once a month for a weekend trip and also go on a three hour trip to the camp with only a small boat in tow. The longest trip planned this year is a eight hour drive. My question is in every ones opinion do I really need the diesel or is the 5.4 ok. Also is the gas the cheaper route for what I do or is th diesel. I have a 04 with 26,000 miles now so I really dont use the vehicle that much in town.

wpalkowski · February 2007

Crew Cab with a 4x4 is a big heavy beast. What's the rear end ratio on the truck? Hopefully it's a 4.10:1 or 4.30:1. (If it's the 3.73:1 ratio, the truck will be sluggish, especially when towing.) The higher rear end ratio will give you more torque to pull your load. 5K lbs isn't that much to tow (unless you're going over Rockies), and the truck probably won't even know the boat is back there. Were you able to hook your camper up and drag it around town? That said, a diesel will get you there faster and with better mileage, but it doesn't sound like you need a diesel - especially with highter cost of diesel fuel, oil, filters, etc.

I have same truck with a long bed, but I've got a V10 in it. I pull a camper that's 8700 lbs, and occaisionally tow a skid steer that's well over 10K lbs. The V10 can handle them both fine, but on big hills the motor is running at high revs. Plus my gas mileage is abysmal when I tow - 7-9 mpg. I get 10-11 mpg in the city, and 12-14 on the highway, but it really depends on how hard and fast I drive. Your mileage with the 5.4 isn't going to be all that much higher than mine because the 5.4 is going to have to work a little bit harder. It's not my daily driver - but when empty, the V10 is a real blast to drive. THe long bed holds 39 gallons of fuel so fill ups were rather painful when gas went over $3/gal.

lostcause245 · February 2007

I have a 2001 Super Cab 2wd with the 5.4 and after three years I, too, truly enjoy this truck. Based on my experience with it and your intentions it would probably suit your needs quite well. However, wpalkowski did hit the nail on the head with the 3.73 rear end on this truck, it is a bit sluggish when towing. If I am really milking the throttle I have recorded up to 17 mpg on the highway empty, but when pulling your trailer dont expect more than 10 or 11 mpg. It starts every morning, has 105000 miles on it, and has not spent one single day in the shop. I hope this helps with your decision and good luck!

ladiestruck · February 2007

I have a '03 f250 crew cab short box with a v10, it is my daily driver and I have had no problems on the Montana roads except for the usual light rearend sliding around a bit (makes for a fun ride though). The only problems that I have had are similar to the postings above. I have the "clunking" sound when going over bumps- figured it was my shocks or cab mounts, but dont really want to replace the shocks and have the same problem I did on the '77chevy of having an even harder ride. One thing that I have noticed is a ticking sound when excelleration (not a constant) it sounds more like an exhaust leak, but I cant find any obvious leaks. Any other ideas of what it might be?

I seem to get about 10mpg no matter what Im doing in the truck; hauling, town or interstate. Next trip will be fully loaded going to Tahoe in the summer time

ladiestruck · February 2007

I agree, years ago I worked with my dad converting a '76 F250 auto 2wd (270 I think, bored out to a 460) to manual 4wd. Easiest thing we did was find and old junker 4wd manual and switch frames. Still was not an easy job. finding the right mounts and fenagaling the frame was quite a project.

cajuncountry · February 2007

Wel I bought it today, So far I love this truck. The room inside the truck is unbelievable. I chece my gas mileage and so far it is 12.8 mixed, I have to remember that I did not buy this truck for the gas mileage. Thanks everyone for the input.

zekebz71 · February 2007

THE NOISE WAS THE BUSHINGS FOR THE FRONT SWAY BAR. 130.00 DOLLARS AND I CHANGED THEM. NOISE GONE

lostcause245 · February 2007

Thats about 2 mpg off of mine but you did get the 4x4, which sounds reasonable. Congrats to you and hope it is as trouble free as mine.

bubbabean · March 2007

I recently totaled my 2005 F250 PSD...just settled with insurance company, and now need new truck. I am considering going to gas...i am waffling between the 5.4L and the V10...I dont want to underpower the truck, but I also dont want to burn fuel unnecessarily....does anyone have any ballpark MPGs for both, and good, bad, or ugly experiences with either. I do love the diesel, but the settlement will not make it possible.

KCRam · March 2007

From reports I've read, the V10 may do better. The reason being, your right foot won't be as inclined to shove the go-pedal in the carpet to get the truck moving when you know you have the power to do so with light throttle. Ford actually proved this to themsleves many years ago. When they were testing the original Escort, they wanted to offer a 1.3L engine standard and the 1.6 optional. In their testing, they found the 1.6 actually got better fuel mileage because the 1.3 was underpowered for the car.

kcram - Pickups Host

newder · March 2007

I have been having a problem that is driving me nuts. When ever I make a sharp turn, left or right, I get a noise that sounds like when you are turning sharp with your 4 wheel drive on, but its not on. I have taken it in and the mechanic says everything is fine, but its not. Any ideas?

scooter06 · March 2007

i get a loud thump right after i start it sound like its under the passenger seat i have a 03 6.0 supercab superduty and it only does it once

lostcause245 · March 2007

I have a 2001 with the 5.4L and 2wd. Ballpark figures between 14 city, 17 highway and 9-10 towing. Had excellent luck with the engine and the truck as a whole, never in shop. Ive had it three years. It now has 105000 miles on it. Dont know much about the V10, though as far as reliability or mileage.

lostcause245 · March 2007

Sounds to me like a front end alignment is in order, but that is just my opinion. My advice would be to have another mechanic look at it, particularly one that specializes in front end work.

jneal · March 2007

"i get a loud thump right after i start it sound like its under the passenger seat"

The neighbors cat leaving in a hurry maybe?? :sick:

newder · March 2007

I get that same sound on my 01' F250. I am interested to see what people have to say on that one?

scooter06 · March 2007

it only happens when its cold i think it has somthing to do with the glow plugs but iam guessing

ladiestruck · March 2007

I also get the same noise, it is not a constant and I can not tie it down to a certain temp or anything. The first time it happened I thought someone hit my truck, but no one was around. Sometimes when I get this noise the truck also jumps forward a bit (automatic). I am interested to see what others may think it is. I also get the same noise that someone else was talking about, a clunking when making a turn like it is in 4X4 but it is not. Any suggestions?

wpalkowski · March 2007

Is it a crew cab? If so, check the cab mounting bolts. Mine needed to be retorqued. Longer wheel base frame flexes more than the shorter trucks, and cab creaks - especially slow, sharp turns on a hill. Sometimes a real pronounced banging. Bolts are a chore to get to as interior trim and carpet/padding have to come up in order to access a couple of them.

fordboy4x4 · March 2007

I have a 02 F250 PS and I also head the loud thump just after start up when cold. My salesman told me that it is just the heater door slamming shut as over time the system looses vacuum and the door opens, when the truck starts and the vacuum build back up the door slams shut. It is pretty loud and makes you say " what was that?!!!!" :confuse:

fordboy4x4 · March 2007

Has anyone installed aftermarket gauges for turbo boost,pyro,trans temp or rear end temp? looking at installing a pod set up, I am mechanically inclined but I dont really want to be drilling holes in housings and the like. sure would like to "see" what things are doing under the hood and the factory gauges are junk.

keroburner · March 2007

I added pyro and boost gauges to my 2004 F-250. You have to drill and tap a hole in the aluminum housing right on top of the engine in front. I loosened the clamps and swung it about 90 degrees, stuffed it full of rags to keep any shavings out. For the pyro, you drill a hole in the exhaust just back of the turbo and it installs with a stainless steel clamp and a ceramic washer, again pretty simple. Biggest challenge was locating wires for lights and one that is hot when ignition is on. I bought the package from Cabella. Gauges work great and tell you when to back off if you need to. I have a stick shift so didn't need tranny gauge.

scooter06 · March 2007

that makes sense i thought it was in the warm up mode doomeflodgee ------thanks

yrbender · March 2007

Stopped at truck stop to fill up on diesel the sign said for dual tanks can you fill a single tank f250 there. I did and filled up in about 1 minute which was cool can it damage my tank?

lzrdking98 · March 2007

As you probably know, the truck stops have very quick fill ups due to the fact they typically fill very large semi-truck tanks. I am not aware of any problems this could have on your f250. The only thing is maybe the fuel becomes more frothy due to the agitation, maybe more air in the tank. But this is just reaching. Seems harmless. I have filled up at these places and have not had any problems. Hope this helps

Troy

fordboy4x4 · March 2007

I dont know if I want to do that, I would rather pay someone than screw it up myself. Dont like the drilling part, shavings and stuff. Thanks for the info.

fordtuf1 · March 2007

I have owned 2 F250's, both with V10. The mileage has been as good as my 92 F150 with the 5.8L and as good as anybody I've heard of with the 5.4L in a SD.
I get:
11-13 city
15-16 highway
9-10 pulling about 3K (boat or atv's)
7-8 pulling 10K camper (70 to 75 mph AC on)

Get the V10 are you'll be let down, especially after owning a diesel.

Ford F-250 Owners

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