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Ford F-250 Owners

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Comments

  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    The weight class of the trucks you are considering does not require MPGs to be posted.

    With trucks, its is very hard to tell people what kind of fuel econ they are going to get because there are more varibles involved.

    Hard acceleration and going faster than 65 have a much bigger drag on truck mpgs verse car mpgs.

    Also depends on whether there is a load and what rear axle ratio you have.

    As a sales person, I was trained to ask a customer how many miles per year they plan to drive. If its less than 20,000 miles AND a gas truck will pull/haul the weight they need to move than a gas engine is recommended, as the extra cost of the diesel will not be recovered through fuel economy savings.
    Mark.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    In addition to Mark's excellent response, I will add (as a diesel HD pickup owner myself), where you live also makes a difference due to the price of diesel fuel. Here in NJ, diesel averages out over the course of a year to about the same as regular unleaded, so I am able to gain all of the fuel economy benefits. Not so in other states where diesel can be more expensive all year, resulting in far longer time to make up even the residual value of the engine's cost.

    And speaking of residual value, that also comes into play. A diesel costs more, but can also be worth more if taken care of and the truck stays in relatively good shape for its age. A 100,000 mile diesel pickup is not met with the same scrutiny as a gas truck of similar use. Your market also determines that resale value - if you live where trucks are needed for work (farm, construction, etc.) and heavy recreational use (RV towing), you may find it's worth the initial investment for the diesel since more people in your area may be interested in your used truck down the road.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • hd82hd82 Posts: 13
    I live in the New Orleans area, currently drive a 1997 F-150 ext cab / 8' bed, V-6 (had to be replaced at 60,000 miles) with 106,000 miles. I would rather have another one but can't get crew cab and 8' bed in a 150. Here diesel is about 10 cents cheaper than gas, I drive about 15,000 miles a year now but that could change soon to 25,000.

    I really need the 8' as I have to Harleys, one is a little over 9'. When we drive to gatherings or events I also pull a pop-up so the bed is needed, so is the seating room.

    Any alternatives to my situation, another vehicle config or maker?

    I have read most of the threads here and have concluded diesel is more efficient, longer lasting and holds value a little longer. Is my interpretation correct?

    2007 F-250 XLT Crew, 8' here goes for about $36,000 with diesel adding $6,800.00, is this about right?

    Thanks for the info, now I just have to figure with or without diesel.

    HD82
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    You are a person who keeps their vehicles for a long time. That makes you a great candidate to purchase the diesel.

    If you are flexible on equipment and color, you can probably get close to invoice on a truck in stock. Right now Ford is favoring the diesel in production so these trucks will not be hard to find.

    Make sure the truck that you get has the Tow Command system. This is the factory built in trailor brake controllor and Ford is the only one that offers a factory installed unit that runs off of the brake master cylinder and is truly proportional.

    Also, as a Harley owner, you are probably someone who likes to customize your cars/trucks/bikes. I urge you that if you purchase the diesel you DO NOT MOD the engine in ANY WAY. Deck the truck out however you like but keept he engine FACTORY!

    Mark.
  • lzrdking98lzrdking98 Posts: 40
    There isn't a decision here. You need to get the diesel. Trust me. I just pulled my trailer(10,000lbs), in 105 degree heat for a two hour trip with ac on full blast and the truck wasn't even working. The needles never moved with regard to my thermostat etc. The ford f250 is a great truck. Buy diesel. Better to have too much power and torque, than not enough.Also, the other replys were really good, I just wanted to put in my 2 cents.
  • russo4russo4 Posts: 1
    Hello to all I am new to this site. I am in the process of buying a truck with the following: years 2000-2005,3/4 ton,4x4,diesel,short bed,crew or ext cab(pref.crew).My husband prefers Ford.We are trying to research the years to find the best track record.We saw a beautiful Ford but noticed it had been bought back because of California's Lemon Law. In fact this lot had 2 trucks like that. I'm not sure which year they were.They stated there was steering problems but the dealer found nothing.I'm asking from you to give me your input on YOUR year,make & model of truck.AND if you've had good luck or bad.Would you buy it again? My sister has a 06 Ford sb F250,diesel,4x4 and has had NO problems. My brother has a 05 Ford F350 diesel,4x4,lb and has had no problems BUT he knows 2 others who have 05's (same criteria)with lots of problems.I'm going crazy and developing carpel tunnel searching web sites! Most don't have research on older years.In fact Consumer Reports magazine says to stay away from the Ford F250 turbo diesel years 03-06 and Ford F250 4x4 05-06. And Chevy 2500 4x4 years 03-04 and turbo diesel 4x4 01,03,04.So please help me with your experience. :confuse: Thank you,L.Russo
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Older 7.3L PowerStroke Diesel was very reliable from 2000-2002. They'd worked all of the kinks out. :shades:

    Stay away from '03 models - first year of the 6.0L PowerStroke - lots of birthing pains with that engine and a whole bunch that were bought back under lemon laws. :lemon:
    04-05s were much improved, but still had more problems than 7.3L. Kinda luck of the draw. :surprise:

    No knowledge of 4x4 problems.... :confuse:
  • billdobilldo Posts: 2
    ok i just bought a used 03 f20 sd 4x4 with the 7.3 liter diesel.i had this checked out by ford and an outside 4x4 specialist before purchasing and made sure there were no issues and it has 95k miles on it..

    i ocasionally pull a 21ft ski boat maybe weighing 5k with trailer max..

    i have noticed on its first long trip that the truck acts weird trying to tow it in tow mode where you push the button on the shifter to take it out of overdrive..it revs up real high rpms and also sounds funny near the tranny making a whizzing or high pitched whining oise when going into like a passing gear..

    i was told by another long time 250 diesel owner that towing it in that way hasnt worked for him either and he tows it in overdrive most of the time and lets it gradually go up hills and such and stays under 75 ..

    i am a first time diesel and large truck owner as i have had reg gas 5.4 150s up to this point so im not sure how i am supposed to be towing and i am guessing the noise might be the turbo trying to kick in or something..

    so basically what do you all recommend i should tow in??and going up hills and passing any other mode i should be in??any speeds i should stay near or not go over??

    any and all advice would be appreciated so i do nt hurt my new old truck..

    TIA
  • billdobilldo Posts: 2
    i just bought a used f250 03 sd diesel 4x4 4 door .the problem is the two drivers side door locks do not go up and down with the button used to open the truck locks on the driver side door panel..the two ocks on the passenger side do work..i brought the truck in to have an alarm and keyless entry put in and the tech pointed out this is just the actuaters as the signal is trying to open locks but actuators are weak or broke and is a common issue with these ford models..

    is this true?

    how hard a fix is it for a do it yourselfer who is mechanically inclined??what do the actuators cost or and estimate??

    if i cant do it myself what might be the cost for a ford house to do it??

    if i can do it any tips ??

    TIA
  • Truck has 31,000 miles and has been running flawlessly. I drove 625 miles one way on vacation. During the trip I drove in some hard rain. The day after I arrived to my destination after starting the engine the idle was noticably low. After a few starts and stops, the engine would only idle as I accellerated. I shut it off then restarted and the engine would accellerate. I dropped the truck at a dealer where they changed the gas pedal assy and re programmed the computer. After this repair the engine would hesitate on accelleration at times. A few days later after driving in a heavy rain, I stopped for dinner then the engine would not start up. It would turn over faster than normal but not start. It finally started up after two hours of trying on and off and ran normally. Does this sound like a cam position sensor? Does rain agrevate this sensor? I have not read where anyone else stated they got no response from their accellerator when depressed. Any help would be appreciated.
  • segel10segel10 Posts: 8
    Question,
    What does it say on your door (2008 F-250) is the Max Load of people and cargo. I am seeing spec's indication in excess of 2500Lbs, but one I looked at showed 185x on the door sticker. Thats only 100Lbs better than my F150.

    What gives?
  • tensar51tensar51 Posts: 1
    I own an 06 F 250 Diesel. My problem is every now and then as I head out to merge on the freeway, I have my foot all the way down on the pedal and my truck will accelerate very slowly (like 25 to 65 in about 20 seconds) In traffic this is an eternity. My RPMS are at 2k and turbo boost is normal. I am wondering if this could be a transmission problem or ??? Anyone else have this problem? It is under warranty, so I will be bringing it in, but it doesnt always do this...so of course they will try it out and it will probably not do the slow acceleration thing for them.
  • I just bought a 2001 Ford F-250 7.3 diesel with the 6 CD changer. The previous owner took great care of the truck, but he accidentally left his CDs in the changer. I ejected them and am mailing them to him. I started putting my CDs in and got two of them in before it went south. I can't seem to load any more CDs, eject the ones that are in there or play them. Any help would be appreciated. Also, any general advice on maintaining the truck would also be welcome. I've always changed my own oil on my vehicles, but this is my first experience with a diesel. I have the owner's manual, but am looking for some seasoned experience. We live in Seattle and plan to use the truck to haul a camper and tow a small sailboat to Baja for the winter.
    thanks,
    Steve
  • I did this to my 6 cd changer too ,I finally was able to wiggle the changer out of the holder.I had put 2 cd's in one slot once I cleared that it worked fine the rest of the time.
  • Just got new 6.4 diesel. First tank fuel 21.5 and 13.5 pulling 34 foot prowler 5th wheel weighing 12500 lbs. Quite happy can't wait until it is broke in.
  • I had to replace one of my towing mirrors on my F250 Superduty. When it arrived there was the heated indicator on the mirror. I hooked it up the same way as the original and no other wires. The ones the dealer put on were not heated. Does the mirror receive heat from the same wiring or does a switch need to put installed. The drivers side is still original with no heat so I'm not sure what the next step would be. Thanks for any input.
  • I'm looking at a 1995 Ford F250 Styleside XL H/D SuperCab 4x4, with the 460v8. It has 114,000 miles and they're asking $5,800. Is this a good deal? It looks to be right a blue-book, but what kind of problems can I expect to find on this truck with this many miles? Any other user experiences with a similar truck? Thanks!
  • jmouserjmouser Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 f-250 super duty. my air vents keep changing back and forth from the defrost to regular ac depending on how fast i am going no matter what i have the dash selector set at. i took the glove box off and all the air lines look good. here is the kicker when i put it in 4wheel drive my air vents return to normal and change with the dash selector just as they should. the proublem then resumes when i return to 2 wheel drive... can any one help???
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    You have a vaccuum leak somewhere. Possibly in the vaccuum lines that go to your front hubs.

    The ventilation diverter runs off of vaccuum and your shift-on-the-fly control pulls in your front hubs for 4x4 with vaccuum.

    If you have low or no vaccuum, your ventilation system will go to the default setting - defrost - for safety reasons.

    Seems weird that things work normally when you shift into 4x4. Question - are your front hubs actually engaging when use the dash selector? If you've got a bad enough leak to mess up your A/C, lotta times it affects the 4x4 too.

    Basically, you're just going to have to trace out all your vaccumm hoses and look for any that may be cracked or brittle. Do you have a gas engine where the engine creates the vaccuum during normal operation, or do you have a Diesel that's got a separate vaccuum pump?

    My truck had a brittle hose with a small crack right where the line went into the ventilation system under the hood. The last half an inch of hose where it mated with the connector got brittle and leaked. Every time I stepped moderately hard on the gas, the A/C would shift from Vent to Defrost. As it got worse, my shift-on-the fly stopped working. I had to engage my front hubs manually one night in the snow, and that's what gave me the impetus to finally figure it out. Took a while to find it, but as a bonus, my V-10 started getting somewhat better mileage.
  • We had a '99 F250 7.3 for five years and no problems at all. we made the mistake of bying a new '05 F250 with the 6.0 engine in it thinking the glitches had been worked out.
    Big mistake- 7 fuel injectors, many sensors, and a turbo later with 36,000 miles on it, we go rid of it. We now have a -07 Lariat 4X4 with the 5.4 Triton engine and it runs like a dream.

    Good luck with your 6.0.....ours was an unreliable Lemon.
  • bethpbethp Posts: 1
    We have a 2005 F250 Super cab that will not accept gas. It spits it back out. Anyone have any ideas where I need to start to understand this problem?
  • I had a brother in law that had the same problem. he took into the shop and they found a hole in his gas line underneath the bed of the truck. he had a 5th wheel hitch installed and they had nicked the gas line with a drill. he was getting air in the line which was causing the gas to spit back out when he went to put gas in the truck. you may want to check that out. cost him about $400.00 for the dealer to repair it. may save you some money if that was to be your problem. hope this helps, ken
  • Every one that I know who tows a heavy trailer with the 6-liter diesel has had the turbo hoses blow off, some more than once. Ford says to torque the hose clamps to only 9-11 lbs. I can't see how 9-11 lbs. of torque can hold up to 30 lbs. of boost. Those who I know who have had the problem tighten the clamps as tight as they can, and that seems to help. Any thoughts or suggestions?
  • Tightening the clamps is only a temporary fix.It will eventually happen again.I've had it happen 3 times pulling my Toyhauler.The last time,the clamp broke and I had to be towed.This was after I had taken it to my Ford Dealership and they said it was fixed.The [non-permissible content removed] is all the dealerships you contact know of this problem,but FORD does not have a recall.I did fix the problem though.I took my truck to a Offroad Performance Shop.The trouble is not the clamp,its the Aluminum Pipe from Turbo to the grill.It rattles under power and works itself off.I had a bracket fabricated to bolt the pipe to the Alternator.That does the trick.
  • I own a 2006. So far I have been o.k. I would really like to know more about that metal fabrication. How big is the metal. How thick, where and how is it attached? etc?? I pull a 32ft travel trailer. I have heard of this happening as well. Ford said they fixed the problem with the 2006's. Who knows

    Troy
  • Driving home from work I noticed a ticking noise from the front of my 92 f250 4x4. I have heard that noise before so I pulled off the road and slid it into 4 high, backed up, heard the click, slid it back into 2 high, backed up heard the click and then went into drive. Great no noise... Till the next morning. Same trouble but something new too. Rough idle and hard to start. I limped to work and back and when I got home, I tried to turn around to park, (just like every day) and the truck died and was super hard to start then. I thought that it might be a fuel problem so I checked the filter. The filter was dirty so I changed it.
    No start. Checked the spark plugs and some were fouled. I changed them and checked the spark. We are good. The truck started but continued to run rough at idle. I pulled the brake booster hose off for giggles and the truck started to run better. When the hose is put back on, the truck runs rough and wants to die. If you give it gas, it picks up and you dont notice anything. I haven't driven it since and I have read some of the posts. I went out and looked for broken or cracked lines and noticed something else. When I revved the engine and then held the rpms at 2500, it sputtered a little but as I began to rev over 2500rpms, I noticed that the tach began to drop off even though the engine rpms continued to go higher. Any help? :sick: :confuse: This truck has 187000 mi on it 460ci, auto trans, shift on the fly, auto locking hubs.
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    do a fuel pressure test. have competent tech. look at results. may show lean condition on one bank not the other. common problem with high mileage.
  • thanks, i will have that done this week. any other suggestions, please let me know.
  • I have a 2004 f-250 super duty 6.0 diesel with 30k miles. I just had a front oil seal replaced and a new turbo. The ford dealer is trying to get me to purchase a new just available Sept/2007 200,000 mile warranty for the 6.0 diesel. The cost is $1900. Now that I have had the turbo replaced will that happen again? And has anyone heard about this new warranty Ford is offering?

    George
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The warranty is good and will be backed, no problem. The question for you is; how long do you realistically intend to drive this truck? If you're going to drive it 200,000 miles, I'd get it. Just because this engine has its quirks. If you're going to turn the truck in at 60,000 miles, I'd risk it without the warranty. But that's just me, YMMV.
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