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Comments
This doesn't happen every time I try to use the Nav system -- happens sporadically.
I took it to the dealer and was told that when this happens the (whole) Nav system needs to be replaced. As you might guess, it's a very expensive item, and with labor the total is even higher.
Has anyone had any experience with faulty Nav systems in their RX330? What was the fix? Any input or suggestions are appreciated.
THX!
I'm looking for a mechanic that does good work at a fair/reasonable price (and doesn't replace parts that don't need replacement). Basically, a shop with a reputation for good work and integrity. (Dealers need not apply).
Thanks!
If you find a good one, please post in there too (or even if you find a bad one!).
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
The DVD player is on the right side, to the right of the tire jack. You can easily eject the DVD and clean it.
I am very disappointed since of all the auto manufacturers I thought Lexus would stand behind its product when it appears to be a recurring problem. I since discovered that several other owners have the same failure. My conclusion is that these headlights have a residual defect. Its too bad that Lexus will not take steps to maintain brand loyalty when they are faced with what is without doubt a latent defective product.
Let me know if anyone in this forum has had to deal with the same issue.
When I took the Thule carrier off about two days later I discovered that the cross bars could not be moved. When I pulled up on the little lever that releases the pins on both sides of the cross bar the bar would not budge. I tried a few squirts of WD 40 on each of the four levers and problem was solved. Not sure whether the weight of the cargo caused the problem (I was very careful to not exceed max weight listed in owner's manual) of if it was due to 10 hours of heavy rain or a combination of both.
I have also had the moldings from my rear quarter windows blow off. The first time it happened, I had the window replaced (expensive). This time, after the weather warms up a bit, I am going to glue the molding on.
I had the pump on my air suspension replaced at about 40K miles.
I am still a fan of Lexus.
The solenoid on my air tank (air suspension) is noisy. Est $975 to replace. This is the second major repair on the air suspension system @ 64K miles.
Thanks,
Joe
If you keep getting too much condensation in the headlight, you could loose the bulb too.
I pushed the fan to maximum speed and heard a distinctive groaning noise
coming from the fan. (When I shut off AC the fan noise remains there so no link with the AC )
AC and fan are not covered by waranty in on certified lexus in Canada
I do not know what is going on. and before I go to the dealer for a costly
repair could you help me if any of you have a RX330 with those three questions:
1- When your AC is on do you feel the compressor is constantly starting and stopping and the air outlet temperature is constantly fluctuating from very cold to "not so cold" .
2- in very hot weather do you have enough cooling in the cabine (i suppose yes since i did not see any complaints in the forum on that)
3- When your fan is at the highest speed , do you hear a groaning noise , or is it really silent. Noise is distinctively higher and groaning than when fan is at low speed. (This is independent from the AC on or off)
Thanks
For quick cooldown on a hot day I always turn the system to max cooling, 65F, and adjust the fan for an "acceptable", lower, noise level.
You can increase the A/C cooling efficiency significantly, and get a slight gain in FE, by blocking the hot water flow to the heater core during the summer.
I will check the pollen filter I think it must be recheable through the glove box
Tried to find out where the rattle was coming from
It turned out it is the two latches on the rail that hold the trunck cover
I squeezed two small pieces of soft plastic behind the latches and the rattle disapeared. You can use cloth or paper and it will do the job
Sorry for the delay ,
The two latches are in the back of the car where you slide in the tonneau cover
(the cover that you put in the trunck to hide your stuff inside)
What I did is insert (squeeze) a thick carton in the space behind the latch so that the latch will not move anymore.
The ratlle disapeared. It used to be very annoying when driving over a bumpy or rugged asphalt street
I lalso found out there is a TSB for this.
let me know if you are able to fix it
Or I can send you a picture
I dont know if PM is available on this forum
Regards
I just bought a 2006 RX330 with 67k mi.. After the deal and before paying, I had asked about an extended warranty. The closer offered 3 options. 4 yr 48000 mi for $6200. the least was $2400 for 24 mo/24000 miles.
I passed on all extended warranties. I'm gambling that I can get more from my money w/o the warranty.
Hope this info helps. There are better prices out there, but this was a lexus dealers best. It was not a CPO warranty either. Good, but not worth $6 large.
You might be able to make a case that the struts wore prematurely due to defective mounts but I'm not sure how you do that.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
My personal experience with Lexus is that once its out of warranty they don't much care.
I would first get an independent quote covering the cost of materials and labor separately so you can compare their response with an outside quote.
Good luck !
Did you have to pay? or Dealer cover the charge?
thanks
2004 RX330. They totally worn out just after 1 year.
I can't believe it. What should I do?
with our 2004 RX330 with 41K miles, I hear some thing flapping while driving even at 40-50mph. I sounds like one of the luggage carrier racks is loose, but all luggage rack parts are tight in place.
This flapping noise from outside is annoying in otherwise very quiet ride. When I look at the rear ( left and right) quarter panel window moldings, they appear tight in place. Could it be that they are loosely in place and when wind goes around it then it starts flapping?
I have never had this type of noise from any other vehicle we have owned.
Thanks,
Joe
I bought cermic pads for front and organic pads for the rear and put them on. It cost me $70 ( after $30 rebate) for front and rear pads. The pads on our 2004 RX with 41K were worn out in the rear with some left in the front. I could not tell whether the front pads were replaced once before we bought the car.
Replacing the RX pads has to be one of the easiest one I have done.
I replace my front pads at least twice before I even consider turning the rotors and I have NEVER has to repalce rotors.
It is possible, remotely possible, that the front pads were so worn that the rotors were damaged.
My experience ('99 RX300 2WD): I replaced my original pads (all 4 at the same time) because of the annoyingly premature wear sensors which made the car squeak like an old jalopy. The wear sensors are small tabs of soft metal that rub cause a metal-to-metal scraping-squeaky sound. I think they were noisy by 30,000, but each inspection showed there was plenty of brake left so being the cheapskate I am, I did not replace them, nor did the Toyota dealer recommend it. I finally replaced all four at the same time to quiet all the squall by about 75,000, but the Toyota dealer said there was still plenty of wear left. The factory pads were fine, but the built-in wear sensors are set to cause lots of noise prematurely to annoy you into replacing them early. I didn't have to replace the discs. I did have them flush the brake fluid, purging all old fluid and bleeding the brake system out at the time they did the brakes.
If your discs were warped from excessive heat or the pads were worn so that contact was made to the disc, it is possible to ruin your disc(s). Ask them to show you on your car what specifically is worn, and look at the parts yourself. Look for any unusual wear. Any good shop will be willing to do this.
While changing the oil/filter last week for the first time, I removed two underbody plastic shields to got to oil filter and to degrease underside of the engine. I noticed the larged undebody shield had broken in the front in its thinnest part. The broken section was separated in the front.
After changing the oil, I did not put it back on, thinking I will buy a new one. When the car drives up, you can tell the piece is missing. At $210 wholesale, I may not ever replace it.
While driving on the highway without the undebody piece, I noticed the annoying rattle is gone. I just find it amazing how rattle and noise could transfer in a car and be heard in a different part of the car.
Joe
When I went to my dealer they said they never heard of this problem and wanted over $300 because they said the entire window had to be replaced. I said no way for a $20 peice of moulding.