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Comments
I had my brakes replaced at 12000 miles per the technical service bulletin. I suggest you ask your service department if they are replacing your brakes due to complete failure or per the technical service bulletin.
You can learn more about the TSB's and recall notices at the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration. Go to the vehicles and equipment section to start your search.
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/
While this is no doubt worrying to you, be grateful your service department is doing all of the tests that they are. Some dealers do as little as possible and have to be prodded to even check the TSB list.
Finally, there are TSB's that cover the other symptoms listed in your note. Ask your service department about them as well. And, if all else fails, print out the TSB list from the Web site above and give it to your service tech.
The 2004 RX330 is a first year redesign. It was bound to have a few kinks that needed to be worked out. For the most part, Lexus has responded quickly on all issues related to the redesign. I still think it is one of the safest and most reliable vechiles on the road.
tidester, host
Anytime the brake pedal is depressed enough to activate the brake lights the torque converter lockup solenoid is disabled, deactivated. That would undoubtedly result in a reduction of engine drag torque but would likely only be felt by the driver if the brake was not actually "applied".
The second thing is that the shift pattern indicates an upshift, from 3rd to 4th, with the throttle fully closed, at 21 to 24 MPH for the FWD transmission and at 19 to 23 MPH for the AWD. Apparently it then shifts back into 3rd at 11 to 14MPH (both). Since the shift pattern shows no further shifts as the vehicle continues to slow should we presume it remains in 3rd until we come to a full stop?
Shifting upwards, 3rd to 4th(OD) during coastdown would certainly give one a "slingshot effect".
I can't find anything in these manuals relating to shifting at or near coming to a full stop but maybe someone out there has the RX330 shop manuals and can lend some additional light on this matter.
1.2 seconds....hmmmm....
I own a RX2004 and received a "Limited Service Campaign" letter to replace my radiator. They can call it something fancy but it's a recall.
One would assume that because this is a safety issue (potentially no brake lights) that this elevates it to recall status versus replacing radiators and fine-tuning engine performance.
On a less pleasant note, I just got a recall notice for something involving the rear brake lights, which could cause them not to light (not good!).
How many owners have the same problem? Can you share your experience of fixing the problem? Thank you.
Thanks.
I didnt see any problems with driving but when you need to stop at a light or a stop sign watch out because its not gonna stop!
To be continued.....
I do see a TSB for a front suspension rattle, hopefully this is the issue.
Thanks
Last year during our snow and ice storm I did use rear snowchains but the circumstances were such that no one should have been out on our roads absent a set of tire chains.
Over-confidence in just what an AWD system will do, maybe?
My RX is the best vehicle I have ever driven in winter weather and I now know I will only buy AWD vehicles in the future.
I've lived in Snow Country in the North (Yellowknife), West (BC Interior), Northern and Southern Ontario Snow Belt, and Labrador (Happy Valley Goose Bay).
I can honestly say I have as much or more snow driving experiences in 4 x 4 mode than most.
Have owned Land Rovers, Fords, Chevs, Dodges, (including the venerable 3/4 ton Powerwagon), and now Toyota Highlander.
I've also had problems, including getting properly stuck with 4 x 4s many times, much to my embarrassment.
In just about every case it wasn't the fault of the vehicle.
I've even got nicely stuck in tracked vehicles occasionally, and again, it wasn't the fault of the machine.
The most common problem 4 x 4 drivers experience
in snow conditions is *dealing effectively with snow conditions at the time*
No 4 x 4 will get you out of trouble if snow conditions prevents it from doing so, because they are beyond its capabilities.
In fact, misjudging capabilities of a 4 x4 in any snow condition will often get you into more trouble than you bargained for.
Loosely packed, light, dry snow is easiest to keep going in--as long as it doesn't get drifting or too deep--over 12 inches will challenge your vehicle, 18 inches will stop you.
Heavy wet snow will cause you the most problems. Depths as little as 6 inches can bog your 4 x 4 down easily, and then when that happens, only tire chains or a tow truck will get you moving again.
Anything in between those extremes has to be experienced to know the capabilities of your vehicle.
The other day, we had a dump of around 8 inches overnight--wet heavy snow on top of a couple of hours of freezing rain. Our driveway is 300 yards long (concrete), with a good sized parking area at one end. We have a good sized, diesel Kubota 4 x 4 tractor with a plow which I used to clear snow. It wouldn't even move a shovelful because of icy pavement underneath that little bit of wet soggy snow. Got totally stuck and went sideways many times on ice covered pavement under that snow.
Had to put on tire chains and wheel weights to get the job done, and even then, wheels were often spinning, and it took 3 hours instead of 1 to clear that soggy mess.
In these conditions, 4 x 4s will generally do better than 2WD vehicles, but don't expect miracles.
Our Highlander is pretty good, but I won't use it when my experience tells me it's not a good idea. I will always carry tire chains, a come-along, some lengths of cable, and put in 400 pounds of sandbags, if I ever deem it necessary to push limits of its capabilities.
One of the better vehicles I've used in snow was an old rear engined Volkswagen Beetle--but depths of more than 8 inches even stopped it. It got me to work in BC when most others couldn't. Occasionally we'd use it to claw our way up logging roads in the mountains--it was as good as any 4 x 4 on the steep slopes (in dry conditions).
Thanks
Put some snow tires on your vehicle. All-seasons are mediocre to say the least when it comes to snow.
And read the post preceding mine.
Trust me, driving an SUV in the snow WILL NOT be like the commercials on TV.
:-)
First, AWD and/or 4WD help ONLY to get you up and moving initially and keep you moving. It will be of absolutely NO help in stopping and sometimes a detriment in turning. This latter especially with engine compression braking on front biased AWD.
The bad news is that it's likely the activation of your ABS that's preventing you from stopping more quickly on an icy, slippery surface.
ABS does NOT help you stop quicker or in a shorter distance, not even on dry pavement. On an icy surface it will almost always extend your stopping distance, sometimes dramatically so.
ABS' ONLY purpose is to allow you to mainatin directional control during severe braking!
That's why I firmly believe that the next evolutionary change we will see in ABS design is that it will not activate unless the stability system, VSC, PSM, etc, senses that directional control is being threatened.
I have not seen any posts recently about the dash rattle problem. I've had my car for over a year and I have not been plagued by this. Is anyone still experiencing this, and has a successful fix been found?
To comment on recent posts about problems in the snow, my AWD RX has no problems, going or stopping , in the snow.
I don't have a problem driving on ice and snow (as long as I leave the ECT mode off).
As for your comment on snow tires, my husband develops tire tread for a living so I am pretty confident that I have the correct tires on my vehicle.
Your names are very similar and easy to get confused.
lovingmylexus....are you reading this? I hope so, because I'm not repeating myself.
:-)
Starting and stopping difficulties have most to do with characteristics of the snow you're in, and a lot less to do with the make or model of SUV you're in.
Four wheel drive systems, regardless of the technology your SUV is equipped with or the tires you have, won't help you much if snow conditions exceed their capabilities. I discussed this in detail earlier.
Assuredly, FWD's are more effective than conventional 2WD in certain snow conditions, but don't get upset if you push the limits and get stuck somewhere.
ABS and Skid Control Systems are also affected in much the same way.
Braking distances in certain snow conditions aren't any better than conventional braking systems, and in some cases distances may even be greater, as Wwest has stated.
The main value in these systems is the ability to control *direction* in a skid, not control or lessen distance.
The same goes for so called "Snow Tires".
Tread designs can improve traction and reduce skidding or aquaplaning somewhat, but not by large increments---and not at all if slippery conditions in snow exceed their capabilities.
Rule of thumb--Don't expect miracles.
It pays to anticipate the worst case scenario in snow.
Steve, Host
Also, sounds like your failure was a fluke--a defective booster is relatively rare. Catastrophic failure of your entire braking system is also highly unusual. Why?? Because there is a secondary backup in contemporary brake systems. If a booster fails you still have braking capability, but it isn't power assisted--sort of like the old days when power brakes weren't standard and you had to press hard on the brake pedal for brakes to engage properly. I don't think your secondary system would have failed too.
Also unusual is the lack of feedback you would/should be entitled to under those circumstances. Lexus is one of the more customer focussed automakers in the world, and for you not to get any explanation is not a typical Lexus scenario. I wouldn't give up trying if it were me.
I doubt the antilock valves had anything to do with it, but nice try.!!
For Taylor:..
I get the distinct impression you wouldn't be satisfied with any consultation or explanation, but you could try the Lexus Customer Service phone no., or e-mail them at their web site. Good luck.
Some advice: Venting your spleen at, or tearing strips off someone won't work very well.
One seems just as farfetched as the other to me.
*** except for the commonality of the anti-lock pressure relief valves.......
Anybody know how EBD, electronic brake pressure distribution, works? Does it use the same anti-lock pressure relief valves?
In the meantime, I'm getting the baggage door on my a/c checked out!!
Think about this. Would someone with no brakes drive in for service, or have the vehicle towed?
And you didn't answer my question.....
What would be your alternative suggestion for the simultaneous failure of two fully independent brake systems?
Regarding the "tow or not to tow" scenario, that wasn't intended as a question--just something you might want to think about.
Meanwhile,the baggage door story...........!
I never, NEVER, want to fly with anyone of that mindset as PIC.
Oh, and given the relative simplicity of even today's fairly complex automotive brake systems I would think comparing a hypothetical guess to even one lottery win would be extremely farfected.
Engine failure can occur unexpectedly, but a responsible and competent PIC would have anticipated that contingency (among others),and would have rehearsed all relevant emergency procedures beforehand--quite frequently--and committed them to memory--plus have the POH very close at hand at all times..
If not, he/she shouldn't be operating an aircraft.
When failure occurs, immediately establish best rate of glide, go thru the complete engine failure checklist, try restarts as directed.
It helps if PIC has these procedures memorized and practiced frequently, but it's better to follow the POH.
Don't forget, a pressurized 210 is a complex aircraft, and checklists aren't your basic one liners.
At this point the PIC is a very busy boy.
If restart procedures not effective, determine the best site for emergency landing and set up for it accordingly.
Broadcast aircraft ident,intentions,location, souls on board,on enroute and emergency frequencies; dial up emergency "Squawk" on expdr.
Maintain proper airspeeds at all times, ie best glide rate, but adjusting aircraft attitude accordingly to ensure arrival at selected site at correct approach and landing speeds.
Still a very busy boy--especially if passengers aboard.
Please note there isn't much time to explore or ponder any hypothethical theories during all this.
Land at site chosen at as safely and at slow a speed as possible---again, there's another (emergency landing) check list to go through before doing so--or might you have forgotten?
Wwest, if you believe it's "right" to condemn PIC's who don't follow tried and true practices and wastes valuable time exploring theories in an engine failure,then so be it. I think you've been watching too much TV.
Honestly, I'm glad I don't fly with you.
As regard engine failures in a 210--it happened to me once (it resulted in a fuel system AD for all 210's).
I landed quite safely in a farm field with no damage to pilot, passengers, or aircraft. I followed emergency procedures to the letter--thanks to Flight Training experience. I suggest you take their courses. They definitely don't advocate theorizing in emergency situations.
Regarding the previous discussion on snow traction, or lack thereof, I have seen multiple consumer reviews on these OEM Goodyear tires. Basically, everyone was faulting these Goodyear tires for poor traction in rain and snow. Doesn't surprise me too much. Why? These tires are classified as all-season PERFORMANCE tires. They have a "V" speed rating. This isn't exactly the type of tire you want to use in poor weather conditions.
On the other hand, the Michelin version of this 18" tire is an all-season TOURING tire. The reviews I've seen seem to paint a more reasonable picture for poor-weather traction.
I decided to buy the Michelins to replace my Goodyears mainly because they have a much higher treadwear rating. (I don't recall exactly, but I think it is "440" versus "260".) I also hope they provide a little better traction when we head to the mountains.
I wish we had attempted to find an RX with the standard 17" wheels and tires. As of last week, there are still only two tires generally available for the 18" RX330 rims (tire size 235/55R18): the OEM Goodyear Eagle RSA and the OEM Michelin MXV4. Both run close to $200/tire. TireRack.com has reasonable prices for the Michelins, but you still need to factor shipping and mounting.
tidester, host