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Cadillac Owners: Problems & Solutions



  • db3db3 Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2002 Escalade Certified Used Car from a local dealer. The car had 39,000 miles on it. I have owned it for 2 years, we use it very little around town etc., however we will be driving to Florida in a few weeks. My concern is that at 44,000 miles when we had the vehicle serviced the front end was severely out of alignment. The dealer said that the rear left tire belt had failed and that we must of hit something. Reluctantly we paid for a new tire and alignment, but explained to the dealer that neither of us remember hitting anything, especially hard enough to ruin a rear tire. Now at just 49,000 miles the car is doing the same thing. We are scheduled for service this week. Are we to expect the same story? We know we did not hit anything. Should we take it to an independent mechanic rather than the Cadillac dealer?
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    Always,Always,Always get a second opinion.What you are in need of is a 4-wheel alignment, not just the front. It is in my opinion that the Caddy dealer is messing around. A vehicle that is rarely driven shouldn't have this problem, especially since no one remembers hitting or running over anything. I'd take it to an independent shop like a Goodyear but certainly not Firestone, and let them look at it, I've had my DeVille there on occassion and they fixed things the dealer said they couldn't fix.
  • i own a 2003 cts, suddenly when driving, the center information display and the sound systems turns off, and on and off and on again,,, it could be some 2 to 10 times continously, till it turns on again and stays that way.

    Could any body help me ?

    Another problem,,, the front lights, the right one seems to point in a different direction than the other one, it seems to be not alligned ... how could i allign this xenon lamp???
  • I recently bought a 94 STS and the ac dont work....we took it back to the place we bought it and when they attempted to put freon in as soon as the seal was broke on the freon can the car instantly just shut this a safety measure or is there something drastically wrong??? anyone know about this????? also what is the normal coolant temp for a northstar v8 (I believe 4.2?) it seems to be running about 210-225 is that normal....we didnt get a owners manual (Im still working on that!)
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    The car shouldn't be running if there is freon being installed into the compressor. This can be very damaging. The car does indeed have built in sensors to detect when something like this is going on. Your engine size is 4.6L and the operating temp is within normal range.
  • My wife had a similar problem with her 1993 Fleetwood although in her case it was not intermittent. She was preparing to leave on vacation and the trunk lid pull-down failed. I saw no obvious mechanical or electrical faults. I purchased a replacement mechanism from the dealer ($93.00) and installed it myself. The trunk pull-down then operated flawlessly until we later purchased out 1998 Seville STS.

    The installation required removing the trunk lining and removing the inoperative unit. I had to disassemble the pull-down mechanism housing and install the new part. Elapsed time was about 20 minutes start to finish. You should be sure that the mechanism is lubricated properly with white lithium grease.
  • '96 Cadi STS had a significant fluid leak only noticable right underneath transmission on garage floor (puddle). It was viscous and orange-red. My first thought was my transmission pan is loose and leaking transmission fluid. I was told by the garage repair shop I was wrong. They said it was radiator fluid. They want to charge me $280 to repair the "radiator" leak.

    Two things:

    1. There is not, and hasn't been, any evidence from fluid leaking around my radiator (not obvious), and there was no 'snail' type of trail from beneath the radiator; so I don't know why it puddled up below the tranny. How can tranny fluid be of an oil consistency and at the same time orange-red?

    2. The repiar shop wants $280, but in a couple of weeks, I want to trade it in on a new Cadillac DeVille. Am I going to see any residual benefit from repairing this before I trade it in?
  • Antifreeze is usually green or yellow. Tranny fluid is red. However the tranny fluid is cooled via the bottom of the radiator. I'd get a second opinion.
  • I inherited this junk in the 90's and I am determined to make it to 200K with the second engine. However when I replaced the engine and then went through emission testing (which is a total joke) the test for the third gas Nitrous oxide (NO) failed by just a hair. Now this car had been tested before for the two gases HC and CO and passed. Lately it has failed NO limits worse than the first time! What gives emission testing the right to test for NO when the car was not tested for it from the beginning!? Were 1985 cars built to meet NO limits in NON California states? Does anyone know how I can get the specs from a 1985 window sticker that should state the compliance? I don't think this car was meant to meet NO limits.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    Your garage shop was indeed correct. The Northstar engine that is in your STS has a coolant formula called DEX-COOL. It has a orange-reddish color to it, unlike the green associated with regular coolant.
  • I have a '96 Cadillac Seville SLS with 75,000 miles. The car has run great for me until recently when I parked it for a short time then came back out and tried to start it. It would not start, even with a jump from a friend. The next day I changed the battery and the car started and ran beautifully.
    The next day after driving my friend to the airport I stopped in at a gas station and returned after a few minutes to find the car would not start again. No interior lights, no dash read out - nothing. Someone tried to give me a jump, but to no avail. After sitting around chain smoking for 30 minutes the interior lights and dash display suddenly came back on and the car started perfectly.
    I drove home and the next day I took the car on several short trips with no problems starting it. The voltage readout indicated the battery was running at a constant 13 volts. When I went to start the car this morning the keyless entry worked and the interior lights came on when I opened the door. Everything seemed fine. Then everything went dead again. No lights, no dash display. No noise whatsoever when I tried to start it. Unlike the last time, the interior lights have not come back on and the car remains completely dead.
    Of note, the most recent cut off of all power occurred immediately after I placed my iPod into the car dock (which is connected to the cigarette lighter). The first two times I had left my iPod on when I shut my car off. Not sure if that matters, but please help.
  • I recently purchased an old 1984 El Dorado that had the BRAKE LIGHT lit. Pedal travel seemed a bit low, so I thought it might be a simple problem of bleeding the brakes. I took it in and had the brake system bled but was told the rear brakes were not working and that I needed a new master cylinder.

    I purchased a remanufactured master cylinder and was just called by the repair shop that I still did not have any rear brakes. I told them to troubleshoot it now but was not sure I could afford to have it fixed.

    I've searched the internet for a brake system schematic/ drawing for this car but have not been able to locate one.

    Is there anything common between both rear calibers that would prevent fluid from getting to both of them? I can't believe that both rear calibers could possibly go out at the same time.

    Any help is appreciated.
  • dies sometimes while driving mostly when hot ,when pressing gas it sputters and dies also tranny just started doing this when i put it in drive it wont shift gears it stays in first gear ,please help
  • Hi,
    I've got 2000 DHS that just made 70,000 miles. Car has been great. A few weeks ago my "check coolant level" message came on, so I checked it, it was low in the reservoir so I filled it up. The message went away and then about a week and a half to two weeks later it came on again, so I checked again and it was low in reservoir again and I sort of assumed I may have had an air bubble or something when I last filled it so I filled it again. Each fill up I had to raise the level in the reservoir at least 3 inches, (it was about 1/2 inch to an inch from the bottom). No overheating was happening whatsoever. The temp gauge didn't move at all, I'm pretty sure it was just the level in the reserve. I was watching both from the first time and then to the second time for leaks on the ground and there are none. The last fill up in the reservoir was last friday or so and my coolant level message came on again today. When I was driving on the highway today suddenly the "service engine soon" light came on blinking 4 or 5 times. I know that means a missifre occurred and I was wondering if it was related to my problem. My oil is not foamy or white or showing signs of water in it. I'm wondering if my head gasket is leaking. The engine seems to be running fine and producing plenty of power and this is the first time this has happened. The missfire light has never come on before. My plugs could need replacing and my oil is due for a change in the next few weeks, its at 9% life of so. Any help on my problem is appreciated.
  • Hi,

    Today for the first time and somewhat a relief I discovered a small dip spot under the car while it was parked at work. It was orange and definately the coolant. These are the first drips I've seen. I'm going to investigate the hoses above that area.

  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    Dave, I had the same problem you're having around the same mileage on my 2000 DTS. Turns out, it was the water pump. These things are so small that it's hard to believe they belong on such a big engine. The drips started small, and then escalated to the point where I was putting water/coolant in my car everyday. I was really scared at this point and decided to take a couple minutes and jack the car up and investigate. The pump had just a little weep hole big enough for coolant to seep out. I was like you in taking the Interstate everywhere I went so I didn't detect any overheating. I'd really get it fixed as the Northstar is an all-aluminum motor which mean the heads can warp very easily.
  • Hey thanks for the info. I'll check that out as soon as possible. About where were your drips coming down? I'm not very familiar with where all the parts are on this engine, first time I've needed to do this kind of maintenance.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    My drips were hitting the ground in the middle of the car but the pump is actually on the left side of the motor. Seems like the coolant would leak out of the pump and follow a groove to end up in dead smack in the middle of the car, as if the radiator had a leak. Good luck
  • ssteveksstevek Posts: 45
    My son's '82 Deville heater blower motor no longer runs. Previously we could get it going by re setting the 4 wire connector on top of the motor. I don't know the function of the wires, I wonder if it's possible to find a schematic for an '82. I believe it would be similar if not identical on 1980 to 1984 models. My other son's truck had a similar situation which ended up being a bad blower resistor assembly. I temporarily rigged it so it would at least run on high only.
  • ssteveksstevek Posts: 45
    My son's '82 Deville also failed the NO emissions. The other 2 were well within limits, NO was off the chart it was so bad. The emissions testing station couldn't complete the test the first time because of something to do with the way the way the transmission shifted when it was simulating travelling at road speed. But now I wonder if maybe these older Cadillacs should qualify for a waiver. The state requires at least proof of $660 in repairs towards emissions compliance. That would probably be futile, I can see it failing again.
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