Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Grand Caravan 2005+

grumpa · March 2008

My son has a 2005 Chrysler Town & Country LTD and his driver side automatic sliding passenger door will only close about 90%. Searched the web and can't find any information at all. I played with the protective flex-casing that covers the wires to the door and made it stop at many different positions. Played with it long enough that it doesn't work at all now. So... I'm suspecting a short in the wiring? Is there any definitive guidance on how to handle this problem? Thanks.

srs_49 · March 2008

I can't say for sure, but it sounds like there's an open (break) in one or more of the wires inside that protective flex casing you mentioned. When you played with the harness, you moved the 2 ends of the broken wire around so that they separated at a different point in the door's travel, thus stopping the door travel. In fact, you played with it so much that the 2 ends are now entirely separated, which is why the door doesn't work at all.

If you can remove the protective covering, do so and see is any breaks are obvious. But, I'm betting the break is inside the wire's insulation and may not be apparent.

68jazz · March 2008

My 2005 T&C turing started acting very strange today :confuse: . I went to start it and when I turned the in gnition switch it sounded like a bad starter,yet some of the clicking sound was comming from under the dash.then i noticed that all the needled for gas,tach,speed,etc .... we're acting flakey jumping back and forth.well i tried the old stand by discounect battery and make sure all is clean and tight. I put every thing back together and the same.at this point since i was already late with a van full of stuff i went and got a rental after the transfer of everything the back door would not close not with overhead button or key fob.so i tried rcycling power by disconnecting battery give a 10 count still all acting flakey yet now the dvd, cd, radio,and interior ligts flash. any clues I am thinking on board computer, and praying that warrenty will cover i did not purchase until dec 05 and only have 35,000 on the van

cbwilsha · March 2008

I believe if you install a new battery, all your listed problems will be solved.

C.B.

68jazz · March 2008

that is what worked thank you and have a blessed day. :shades:

greenferd · April 2008

A couple of days ago I drove about 150 miles, no problems. I left the van in the garage two days and when I tried to start it--dead as a door nail. I recharged the battery with a trickle charger. It now starts but when I turn the ignition on all the gauges move to the right for several seconds and then return to normal positions in a startup. Also, ALL the instrument warning lights come on and remain on until the gauges return to their normal position. Do I have a major electrical problem or perhaps just a bad battery.

srs_49 · April 2008

How were the instrument gauges and lights behaving before you had the dead battery? The way you're describing how they work now is how I would expect them to work. The gauges moving the right and all the warning lights coming on serves as a self test that all of your indicators are working. Otherwise, how would you know if a bulb was burned out?

sadvan · May 2008

It started months ago, when the van was wet and you stepped on the brakes the radio, wipers, and atuo windows stopepd working until you released brake. Then the above would fail intermittenly without stepping on the brake. Now all of the gauges go crazy, ABS and Brake lights come on and off and ding, radio goes on and off, etc. while driving. It's worse when wet when I actually need the wipers! I've brought it to a dealership and an auto. electric place and no one can figure out what's wrong! Help!! :mad:

tr0401 · June 2008

What was the resolution? I just today experienced the same issue. Were you simply able to replace the wires? Email me at tr0401@gmail.com if you do not mind. Thank you

mariapg · July 2008

Hi Susy2,

I found your post on google. I know it was 3 years ago but I was wondering if you could give me some information. I have a 2006 Grand Caravan sxt and am thinking of purchasing the same overhead dvd player you have (Audiovox DT102DOPKG). They're selling on ebay for $199. If you wouldn't mind letting me know how that dvd player has turned out for you and where did you finally place it? I don't care too much for the climate controls. Do you know if there is a way to replace that with the overhead dvd? Please any help would be greatly appreciated by you or anyone else in this forum. Thanks very much for your time.

kmsandrbs · August 2008

With this generation of DGC ... which engine do you go with, and why?

backy · October 2008

I have a 2007 T&C LX with DRLs. I noticed as I was driving ahead of my wife the other day (she had the van) that when she put on a turn signal, the headlamp (DRL lamp) on the same side as the turn signal went out while the turn signal was on. I've never noticed that kind of behavior before with DRLs. Anyone know if it's supposed to do that?

backy · October 2008

My 2007 T&C LX has the 3.3L, which I find has more than enough power for normal use. It's no dragster but it can get up to highway speed just fine. FWIW, the 2007 3.3L has the same hp, 180, as my 1999 GCS did with the 3.8L motor. I didn't have any particular reason to get the 3.3 over the 3.8. I was looking for a good used Grand Caravan or T&C and found one that was in excellent shape at a great price, and it happened to be a relatively bare-bones model with the 3.3L.

brianz3 · October 2008

I just had an abs light go on. How much does something like that run?

baveux · October 2008

Yes normal behavior don't worry, almost all Chrysler product are now like that

jim291 · November 2008

How do I reset the security lockout on my 2005 Town & Country? If is disconnect the battery will that reset it? Also, the power door locks stopped working.

cbwilsha · November 2008

I don't know about your security question but removing the IOD fuse for a few minutes or disconnecting battery for a few minutes will get your locks working again.

C.B.

knudsen · November 2008

Does anyone know specifically what the difference is between an EX and an EX with the Towing Package? I have the 3.8 L engine, 4 wheel disc brakes, transmission cooler, heavy duty radiator, heavy duty alternator. I want to buy a boat but it is near the limit for the standard version. The insurance company says that if I don't touch the engine, drive train or suspension (i.e. add a hitch) than it's OK to upgrade the vehicle to tow the larger amount. The boat I'm looking at is 1680 lbs dry so I only have 120 lbs to hit the standard limit of 1800 lbs. If someone with a 2001 EX and towing package could supply me with the last 8 digit of thier VIN number the dealer could look up the difference between the two. Otherwise, they're clueless.

Thanks in advance

Rik4051 · December 2008

I'll admit that I'm not totally sure what you mean by the security lockout, but the door lock issue is a known and very common one. The actual problem is that the software has a glitch, but the dealer will charge you to fix it. The work-around is to pull the IOD fuse (it's located toward the back of the fuse box in the engine) for about 30 seconds or so and the computer will reset itself. The door locks will then work again. Unfortunately, my experience has been that it is a temporary fix. May last a week, may last a day. I hope this helps.

mommiof3 · December 2008

I have an 2005 GC with a dvd player and wireless headphones. The remote control will only allow me to select from menu, ffwd, reverse and illuminate. The other buttons such as the one to power the headphones do not function. I've put new batteries in it, along with the headphones and I still cannot get them to work. Any suggestions? :confuse:

rzdw92 · December 2008

We started having the same issue in December 2008. We took it to a dealer who proposed replacing up to 3 different parts (front control module, body control module, and a wiring harness - they had no clue what the real cause was). We said thanks but we can't afford that many repairs.

It also happens to us more when it's wet out. Did you ever get a resolution?

backy · December 2008

Just completed a 2500 mile trip in my 2007 T&C LX (3.3L). Fuel economy ranged from just over 21 mpg to a high of 27.4 mpg. Also had a tank at 26 mpg and another half-tank at 25 mpg. I found that the fuel economy was dependent on wind and speed (duh). Three tanks at 21, 22, and 22 mpg were achieved with a strong headwind and speeds between 70-75 mph. The 27.4 mpg tank was achieved with an hour of 55-60 mph speeds, but the rest of the day at 70-72 mph, mild temperatures (50s-60s), and almost no wind. The 26 mpg tank was under similar conditions but a little faster speed.

The van was fully loaded with five people, a dog, and the rear compartment stuffed up to the top edge of the 3rd row seat.

If gas had been closer to $4/gallon rather than $1.35-1.55 a gallon, I might have watched the speed more to get better fuel economy. But with 8-12 hour days on the road, even a few mph more made a significant difference in arrival time, so I gladly paid the price at the pump.

This was our first long trip in the T&C and it proved a great cruiser, with a smooth ride (15" wheels) and also quiet, except when we were heading into a 30-40 mph headwind. The driver's seat was very comfortable. I spent some time in the middle row and those seats weren't bad, but the cushions are noticeably firmer than in the front. My daughter staked out the 3rd row with our dog and they were very comfortable back there. All the power points came in handy for our portable DVD player, cell phones etc.

badgerfan · May 2009

Returned recently from an extended vacation to the desert southwest from Wisconsin, driving our 2006 Grand Caravan. Overall fuel economy was 23.44. Best tank was 26.58. Worst tank was 20.99.

Several legs of the trip included extensive mountain driving during which the fuel economy interestingly didn't suffer much. In fact the worst tank was on the drive west from St Louis to Tulsa. We must have had strong head winds during that stretch. We generally kept the speed on the freeway stretches at the speed limit of 70 or 75 mph in the western plains.

I am pleased with the mileage, given the size of this vehicle. The 3.3 V-6 had all it could handle in the mountain driving, and if I drove in those conditions on a regular basis, would consider a larger engine version, but in our normal fairly flat daily driving, it is just fine. No vehicle problems during the trip whatsoever. It is only now at 25K on the odometer.

xwesx · May 2009

That's fantastic. Well done! You can look forward to many more miles since that thing is just getting broken in!

We recently completed a 4500 mile trip from Alaska to Pennsylvania with a '98 DGC AWD (3.8L). We averaged 21.7 mpg, with best tank at 24.6 and worst at 19.7. As with you, the worst tank was driving across South Dakota, running at 79 mph, and bucking head cross/head winds. It was a great trip. We clocked 200,000 miles just about the time we crossed the PA border. I think the 3.8L engine has plenty of power in all situations. We ran with a fairly heavy load of cargo, but the van felt quite peppy nonetheless.

tlkiser · May 2009

Hi all - I've got a 2006 Chrysler Town and Country Touring with about 53,000 mi. on it. Last week the oil light started coming on - nearly at 3months/3000 miles on the nose. Today took it in to have oil changed - repair shop says there was no oil on the dipstick and they only drained about 1 qt. There are no obvious leaks and no signs (smoke, etc.) of consumption. They don't (at this point) have any idea what is causing the consumption.
Repair shop advises monitoring weekly - and having them do it and document so that everything is documented in case there is an issue and we need to file a claim with the extended warranty company.
Has anyone seen anything like this? Thoughts about what might be causing and/or what we should do?
Thanks!

xwesx · May 2009

Consumption of up to a quart per thousand miles would not produce any noticeable side effects, so it sounds like (for now), you should simply check your oil on a reasonable basis - once every couple of tanks or so. Waiting to check at each oil change interval is just asking for trouble. It may be that consumption did not suddenly increase, but did get to the point that the pressure was low enough to trigger the warning light. Warmer ambient temperatures, slightly more miles, etc., could all have contributed to increased consumption since the last change.

Regular monitoring by you will help a shop determine if a problem does exist. Otherwise, like us, they are left to speculate.

cparent · May 2009

Hello! We are thinking of purchasing a 2006 Grand Caravan. How would you rate your experience? Do you still have the Grand Caravan that you talked about here?

Thank you for any help you can provide. We're in a real "pickle".

Carol Parent

srs_49 · May 2009

Yes, we still have our 2007 DGC, SXT with the 3.8L engine. We bought it used in Feb 2007. It now has 46,000 miles on it. The only thing we've done to it has been oil changes, wiper blades, and front pads a couple of months ago. The passenger side window no longer works, so I am planning on taking the door apart this weekend to see what the problem may be. I figure worse case it will need a new motor/regulator assembly.

I have no real complaints. Though, to be honest, I really wanted a Honda Odyssey, but could not justify the price difference between it and the DGC.

andridge · July 2009

I have a 2006 Chrysler T&C and since last December have been adding about 1 quart every 4,000 miles. My dealership said this is normal and did not see any evidence of oil leaks or blue smoke from oil burning in the engine. For now, I check the oil every month and keep a couple quarts in the garage.

backy · August 2009

I recently took my 2007 T&C LX in for its 60k mile servicing. I had some surprises, some pleasant and some not so pleasant. On the pleasant side, there was very little that needed attention. The serpentine belt looked good, the plugs are supposed to be good for 100k miles (per the dealer), the transmission fluid looked good, and other than the oil change and air filter replacement and a thorough check, there was little to do. Even the OEM Goodyear tires still had some life in them (more on that in the Tires & Wheels discussion).

Except... the tie rod ends were worn to the point the dealer recommended their replacement. I was shocked that tie rods would need to be replaced on a 3-year-old van with 60k miles. Second, the front brakes needed replacement. I could understand how the pads would need to be replaced, but the dealer said the rotors could not be resurfaced and needed replacement also. Total was about $700.

So while I am pleased that the van has very low scheduled maintenance costs for 60k miles, I am not too happy that parts like tie rod ends and front rotors should need replacement so soon.

srs_49 · August 2009

I too am surprised (and disappointed) about the tie rod ends. But, they couldn't have been that much money, were they?

When I replaced the front pads on our '07 DGC at 42,000 miles, the rotors looked good so I left them on. I agree with your dealer about not resurfacing the rotors. They are probably thin enough as they come from the factory. But, without having seen your rotors, I do not know if I would have replaced them or not.

$700 seems a little high to me for front pads, rotors and tie rod ends. Pads and rotors are around $125-150 from a parts place. Tie rod ends (just the outer, I assume) can't be more than $40/each, so we're at $230 for parts, say $250 to be generous. I could do all that work in a good afternoon, maybe a day at tops. That's why I stay away for shops whenever I can.

Maybe there was some other work done that you didn't mention.

backy · August 2009

The total was $744 for all of the services, including the oil/filters and inspections. Also I had a $100 coupon so the actual total was $844.

The brakes and tie rod ends were each around $350. That included a front end alignment, which seemed like a good idea given the tie rod ends were replaced.

Had I had more time, I would have gotten estimates from another shop (not a dealer). But I was leaving in a couple of days on a trip and my wife needed the van, so I needed to get the work done. Also the van has a lifetime powertrain warranty (not the Chrysler warranty, but one I got for free when I bought the van used) which requires I pre-authorize any service work if done anyplace but the selling dealer.

old_school1 · September 2009

I have a 2006 T&C as well. At 39,000 mi. (and 3,000 since last oil change), oil indicator light came on, but time to get oil changed anyway. They only drained 3 qts! Checked oil at 40,500 and looks about a qt low - at min line and was at max after oil change. Going to add a qt now, with next oil change at 42k. This van leaks absolutely no oil, so it is definitely due to consumption.

I had never had a problem with oil consumption prior to the 36,000 mi. service. Based on my experience, I would check oil every 1,000 miles once you hit 36,000 (same time the factory warranty expires coincidentally), and keep a qt or two in the garage if it's low between oil changes.

frazer1 · March 2010

I have a 2005 T&C with 3.8 and my brother has a Pacifica with 3.8. Both of our Chryslers started consuming oil at about 30,000 miles. I was baffled. No leaks and no obvious burning or smoking. I mentioned it to my brother and he had the same experience. It uses 3-4 quarts between oil changes. I changed the air filter and it made a huge difference in oil consumtion on my van. It still uses oil. but only 1-2 quarts between oil changes (3000 miles).

abashal · April 2010

I have a 2006 that does this also; I was told that this is common on the 3.8 engines and the dealership won't do anything about it. My guess is that the valve seals are faulty and either we'll have to get a rebuild or deal with it. And Chrysler can't understand why people don't like their vehicles...

srs_49 · April 2010

How often do you all have to add oil? 3-4 qts between oil changes doesn't tell us a whole lot.

Leaky valve stem seals manifest themselves as a brief burst of gray smoke when the engine is first started up. What happens is that when the engine sits overnight, the oil that has collected above the head seeps past the seal and into the cylinder. When you start the engine up, this oil is burned.

jb0120 · June 2010

Just purchased 08 Gr. Caravan, on several occasions alarm goes off when opening a door prior to unlocking with the RKE (remote keyless entry). Unable to shut off alarm either by pressing unlock on the RKE or inserting and starting the van? Is this normal behavior, do you have to unlock prior to opening one of the power doors or liftgate?

Seems like it may be an issue for just one of the RKE's, have not duplicated the issue with the spare RKE?
Cannot duplicate issue at will?

jim402 · September 2010

I've checked behind the glove box and under the dash on the passenger side for the door to change filter. The manual says 'if your car is so equipped" The maintainance mannual says to change it every 12,000. Is it likely my van doesn't have this filter?

kenj2 · November 2010

Thank you this gave the fix for my dad (it was very frustrating for him when service personel did not return the display to temperature/compass)

Thanks again
KenJ2

unclehank · March 2011

Hi, I have a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan with a shudder in the transmission. The gas mileage has dropped down from 21 to 16 mpg. It happens when shifting from 2nd to 3rd or from 3rd to 4th at a slow acceleration. Runs good with a heavy foot on the gas.

Someone told me it was the torque converter. I think it is the solinoid shifting in and out of gear???
Any advise other than a tranny rebuild?
Uncle Hank

gmartinde · January 2012

Having same problem with my 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan - shudder in the transmission. It happens about 1500 to 2000 RPM when in 4th gear, slow acceleration. Goes away with increasing gas and RPM...

Told to put in additive called Shudder Guard

ericooh3 · February 2012

There is a sliding door below the passenger side dash which houses the filter element on a 2006 T&C

jcmoore2 · September 2012

I am having the same problem with my 2007 w/70k. I had the trans flushed about 8 months ago by a discount company. Took it to a local dealer and they found the fluid was dirty and the trany was bucking bad w/ two codes (fluid dirty, torque conv):sick: . Flushed the tranny and test drove it. The van gave a code for the torque conv. they found the fluid burned up again after the test drive. They are changing the torque conv now. they are going to flush it again and reprogram the computer.

The discount location probably serviced the wrong type of tranny fluid. I have heard of other people having the same problem after a bad service job. You get what you pay for.

wwl · December 2012

I just acquired a 2005 dodge caravan with 110000 miles. when applying the brakes there is a very rough, almost like a flat tire, pulsating in the steering and the brake pedal. any idea the cause, or how to fix it?

Thanks

srs_49 · December 2012

That would be consistent with "warped" front brake rotors.

When were the brakes last serviced?

wwl · December 2012

Thanks srs 49

I have no idea when the brakes were serviced last

LASHAWN · April 2013

I have an 05 Grand Caravan with about 110k miles on it and it's starting to make a groaning noise that I can hear in steering system. It's intermittent right now and does not happen all the time, but when it does it's very noticeable. Could my steering gear be on it's way out? Has anyone run into this problem before?

tsu670 · April 2013

Does it make the sound mostly on turns? Might be a front wheel bearing that needs replacing.

unclehank · April 2013

The power steering works on hydraulics. It is unlikely that the gear is bad. Have you checked the fluid level in your power steering? A quick check is to over turn your wheels and then slowly move forward, does it make the sound then?

srs_49 · April 2013

That's my guess too - the power steering fluid. The ps pumps will make noise, due to cavitation, if they get some air in them. Remove the ps fluid reservoir, clean it out, and add fresh fluid. May want to run some new fluid through the pump itself.

Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Grand Caravan 2005+

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