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What do you pay for insurance?

24567

Comments

  • manamalmanamal Posts: 434
    $1200 / yr, two cars (02 Camry and 02 Sienna).
    Full coverage with high liability limits, $500 deductables. No tickets, but one big at fault accident (50K in damages). Insurer: USAA
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,411
    ..where we have "My Fault" Insurance... aka no-fault... we pay similarly $1,260/year for full coverage with $500 and $250 deductibles and high liability limits.
    This covers an 03 Sienna and an 04 Vibe.
    No tickets or at-fault accidents.
    But it would be much higher if we officially "commuted" with the cars... since it's under 3 miles, I get to call it "leisure use only".

    BTW, great topic... I thought we paid a lot of money, but comparatively speaking, we're pretty lucky... It's with Citizen's BTW.

    -Mathias
  • leomortleomort Posts: 451
    Question.....when do you decide drop full coverage on your car and just go to liablity? I dropped full coverage on my '94 Toyota when it was 9 yrs old w/ 200K miles on it and went to just to liability.

                            Leo
  • manamalmanamal Posts: 434
    I drop full coverage when (1) the car is paid for, and (2) a 'total' will not cause too much financial problems.

    The reality is that when (1) occurs, I am usually can affort to not have full insurance. (I will maintain high liability limits
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,596
    Full coverage on our 94 Chevy K3500 with 157k on it. Retail book says its worth $8k, but reality if we totaled it we'd probably only see around $5k. Its paid for and if we total it we can just say "Whoa, cool, wanna do it again??"
  • leomortleomort Posts: 451
    of dropping full coverage to just liability when my Toyota was 8 yrs old, but at the time it was our only car.

    Now that I have two cars ( '01 Explorer and '99 Prizm) with full coverage, I was curious as to when it would make financial sense to drop full coverage and go with just liabilty. So I'm thinking when a car hits 8 yrs old?

    Isn't insurance just a booger! ;)

                          Leo
  • tornado25tornado25 Posts: 279
    "It is illegal to base rates on the following:
    1) gender;
    2) age;
    3) length of driving experience;
    4) marital status.
    These regulations went into effect in 1973.
    Some companies, including national writers State Farm, Allstate, and AIG, persisted in utilizing these factors in their rate calculations, as did other local and regional carriers. For years, people who were insured with these companies scoffed at my observations about this. It took almost three decades, but our state insurance department finally came down on these companies for these illegal tactics. What relief will be offered to the consumers who were defrauded is still undecided."

    States, of course, are free to set any law they want, IMO. But, you realize that if you are 1) female, over 25 (or 30 for men), a new driver, or single, that you pay MORE than you would have to if the companies were allowed to use age, gender, experience, marital status to set the rate, don't you?

    Think of it this way: Company has 100 single, male, 22 year old drivers and 100 single, female, 22 year old drivers. That's it. Statistics one year later show the male group had losses 20% higher than the females (which, depending on location) probably is pretty close to reality. Now, most companies will then set a rate for males 20% than females to account for the additional risk. If they don't, they still need to collect appropriate premium to at least break even. That means, everybody's rates go up 10%, instead of the males going up 20. Guys get a break, girls get increase. Not so fair, anymore, huh?

    No matter what the legislature thinks, it's not discriminatory if the company can prove that group is higher risk than another. WI is very much a consumer-protection state and it's allowed here. This defense coming from 28 yo single guy who pays more than any female over 25 and any married guy over 25.

    "Having homeowners can result in premium savings for your auto policy, and vice-versa.
    But, I doubt that having your life insurance there has any effect. Life insurancee is sold through different companies than auto and homeowners (property and casualty - P&C) and while they may be affiliates of the same holding company, their underwriting and reserve requirements are separate and unrelated."

    Not entirely true. State Farm provides the discount when any of those policies are in force. It could be auto and life, auto and Homeowner's, auto and renter's, etc. This is a disadvantage for Progressive and GEICO types, IMO because that discount can help offset any price difference plus you have the added benefit (a big one, IMO) of having all the coverage in one place. Not 3 diff carriers sending bills or 3 diff withdrawals from your checking.
  • leomortleomort Posts: 451
    For full coverage on a '01 Explorer XLT AWD V8 and '99 Chevy Prism it's costing me $690/6 months.
  • janzjanz Posts: 129
    "Not 3 diff carriers sending bills or 3 diff withdrawals from your checking."

    We just received a solicitation from our current home and auto carrier, Farmers, for life ins.

    There are definate discounts to carry more than one category of coverage with a single insurer, however, each policy is a different contract with different coverage, terms, renewal date, etc. This would require a separate payment for each policy/contract or "withdrawl from your checking."
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Posts: 4,202
    $2400 a year for full coverage (comp and collision) + uninsured motorist on the following:

    1994 Lexus LS400
    2003 Honda Civic SI
    2004 Honda Accord EX-L 4 cylinder
    2004 Honda Odyssey EX

    Interestingly enough the 1994 LS400 is twice as much to insure as the next closest car (the Accord) and the deductible is twice as much as the other three. With gas prices going up, up, up the LS is beginning to seem more like expensive garage furniture and less like a car worth keeping.
  • roadrascalroadrascal Posts: 35
    I pay about $850 a year for full coverage with Progressive (500 deductable comp/coll) for a '99 Taurus 24v and a '01 Windstar Sport in the Twin Cities suburbs. I'm 34, wife is 32, no tickets or accidents. I had State Farm for 10 years but their rates are almost double what Progressive's is. I even have my house insured with State Farm, and used to have my two motorcycles insured with State Farm (now with Progressive). You need to shop around every 12-18 months.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Posts: 4,202
    We were with Allstate and were paying twice as much as we are now with Progressive. And that was with a 2001 Protege, the 94 LS400, and a 93 Civic.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,622
    That $2400 figure would probably double if you and G moved to NJ, and still drove 80 miles to work, and that is assuming you have a clean record. At least gas is a little cheaper here, but not enough to offset the insurance!

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • tornado25tornado25 Posts: 279
    "There are definate discounts to carry more than one category of coverage with a single insurer, however, each policy is a different contract with different coverage, terms, renewal date, etc."

    I know this. I sell insurance for a living.

    "This would require a separate payment for each policy/contract or "withdrawl from your checking.""

    You would only have a separate payment if you were not on monthly. (That is, if you chose to pay annually, you indeed would have a separate bill). However, on monthly plans, all policies are on one account and one deduction is made per month. This was the only point I was trying to make. If you had auto with Progressive, Homeowner's with State Farm and life with Northwestern Mutual, you either have 3 annual/semi-annual bills or 3 monthly deductions.
  • janzjanz Posts: 129
    I've just never experienced this. I guess because I try to avoid monthly payments whenever possible as generally there are additional charges for this "service".
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Posts: 4,202
    everything would double if we moved to NJ from GA. House prices, insurance, etc.

    janz: We pay our policy in full every 6 months. Progressive charges a couple hundred bucks more if we were to do it on a monthly basis.
  • tornado25tornado25 Posts: 279
    No offense taken Sorry if I bit your head off a little.

    Just from the perspective of the company I work for, a regular monthly bill is $3/mo and automatic withdrawal is $1/mo. Not too unreasonable, I don't think.

    I have seen it with some companies where the actual premium is different when you want to pay monthly or some other kind of installment plan. When you look at those differences, then it's an ouch. I have also seen monthly service fees of $5/mo. It's only a couple bucks, but I probably wouldn't pay $5 to get a bill in the mail. $1 to have it automatically paid, though, works for me.
  • prophet2prophet2 Posts: 372
    Insurance is state-regulated, not federal. In our jurisdiction, it is illegal for companies to base rates on gender, marital status, age, or length of driving experience. It is likewise illegal to REQUIRE the purchase of other types of insurance in order to get auto insurance.

    It is legal for companies to design and offer multi-peril policies (combined homeowner and automobile), often with a premium reduction. It is also legal for agencies and carriers to limit agent compensation to SUPPORTED business - they will not pay commissions on single-line auto policies if the client has no other policies (homeowner, liability, etc.) in force wit that company.

    Prudential got into trouble when they attempted to offer homeowners policies ONLY to Prudential life insurance and annuity policyholders when there was a homeowners insurance crisis in the mid-'90s after a major hurricane hit. They also imposed a one-year waiting period to qualify for HO insurance. When faced with sanctions for these unfair and deceptive trade practices, they opted to leave the state in regard to their property and casualty (P&C) business. Existing policies were non-renewed. They left a number of disgruntled life and annuity "clients" who had bought such policies to qualify for the HO plans which were no longer available.
  • tornado25tornado25 Posts: 279
    "Insurance is state-regulated, not federal."

    <sigh> I know this. I NEVER said anything about insurance being federally regulated.

     "In our jurisdiction, it is illegal for companies to base rates on gender, marital status, age, or length of driving experience. It is likewise illegal to REQUIRE the purchase of other types of insurance in order to get auto insurance."

    Good for your state, then. I'm just glad I don't live there. Not allowing a company to base auto rates on the very things that are the strongest predictor of risk means that some people are paying more than they need to and some are paying less. That is truth--just because your state is set up the way it is, doesn't mean it is fair. The legislature must sincerely believe it is discriminatory to charge 16 year old boys more than married 45 year old women. Fine, but it is absolutely, 100% illogical. Do you not realize that because the insurance company cannot charge the 16 year old boy MORE, then all rates must be raised to compensate? Do you understand that if they could charge the boy more, the 45 year old married woman's rates would drop?

    In WI, since insurance companies are allowed to use those factors in their rates, I know I am paying the proper rate for the risk I pose.

    "It is legal for companies to design and offer multi-peril policies (combined homeowner and automobile), often with a premium reduction. It is also legal for agencies and carriers to limit agent compensation to SUPPORTED business - they will not pay commissions on single-line auto policies if the client has no other policies (homeowner, liability, etc.) in force wit that company."

    Feel free to preach to the choir, if you think you must. Again, I never stated anything about the legality of multiple line discounts, etc. I know our agents receive the same commission on each line regardless of whether a household has other lines. That is, the agent gets x% of every auto renewal, regardless of whether it's a single auto or a 4 line household. That's our company, others may be different. The benefit of the multiple line household and policies per household is in the bonus structure.
  • prophet2prophet2 Posts: 372
    Hawaii does not consider it fair to charge higher rates for those who have not yet caused accidents or cited for moving violations, be they teen-agers, single, male or female. Based on the premiums I've read here from those in other states, our rates seem to be quite reasonable. Perhaps because we don't have the influx of drivers from other states, who may not be familiar with our area, crossing the border.

    There is an unfair situation in regard to our financial responsibility law, however. If a driver is "uninsured" for even a day because he missed the premium due date (he may have been out-of-town) inadvertently, he is tagged as an extra "risk" even though he may have a spotless 20-year driving and claims record. To have his coverage re-instated, he will likely lose all discounts previously earned, be surcharged 10-45% or more, or be placed in an assigned risk carrier (State Farm Fire vs. State Farm Mutual) where the extra premium is not identifiable.

    Collision repairs are expensive. My car was bumped in the parking lot last week on the side of the right rear quarter panel. No dent on the panel, a scrape on the rear bumper cover, lamp lenses intact (thank goodness). There's a maximum separation of the panel from the cover of 5/8". No crash parts needed. The estimate is $925: repair of panel and cover - $260; Pearl White paint materials - $210; refinishing - $420. The rest is tax. I'm submitting this to the other driver and leave it to them to pay it out-of-pocket or put in a claim. If it's their only claim in the last 36 months, the surcharge will be 10% for the next three years, but the increase could be more as they may lose a 15-25% discount in addition. This one's a tough call.
  • nitroclnitrocl Posts: 5
    Does anyone know when buying a new car in NJ if your name has to be on the insurance card or can you be part of someone elses policy? Do the dealers call the insurance company or do you just show your card? Will I have to get insurance in my own name (Which will cost me over $4800 a year!!!) What if i get financing outside the dealership? does how my car is insured matter to them still?
  • How do I find out what all the alternatives for my state (NJ)?
  • I'm paying about $2450/year and I am pissed.
  • I am looking to buy a new vehicle - down to three: Chevy Equinox, Saturn Vue, and Ford Escape. I want to know approximate costs of auto insurance, especially in relation to one another, to help me make the decision. I DON'T want to get a "free quote" because I know that they check my credit and I don't want to have multiple credit checks on my credit report. I called my current insurance company and they told me they can't give prices, even approximations (that is all I want) without VIN #'s. They said that since the three of them were all about the same value, all three of them would be about same price. I know this is not true because for the rates, they consider crash data, theft data, etc. which is different for each vehicle. I have tried searching on the web and only can find sites that will give me quotes. Where / how can I find the approximate cost of insurance for vehicles? I live in Florida.
  • jlawrence01jlawrence01 Posts: 1,828
    If it were me, I would be CHANGING insurance companies at the next renewal. The agent should be able to give you an approximation of the insurance amount for any "ordinary" vehicle very quickly. IMO, that is a complete LACK of service.

    For the past ten years, after I fired a couple agents for poor customer service (i.e., not following up on claims, making errors on the quotes, etc.), I went with a company (Metropolitan P&C) with telephone service and NO agents. I saved substantially.
  • tornado25tornado25 Posts: 279
    To at least address your concern on the credit issue, I can say this: that in most cases, a full bureau isn't pulled. it's just a snapshot sort of thing that uses certain credit characteristics (not all) combined with loss history to determine the segment you'd go into. Thus, it's not always considered to be a credit check, like that of applying for a credit card or the like.

    In addition, multiple pulls/checks in a specific period of time are calculated into your score as one check. This was a change in the FCRA when it was renewed. This means if you go from dealer to dealer looking for a car and each pulls your bureau in (I think) 30 day period, the score will reflect that as 1 pull.

    Lastly, it's important to understand that the way most insurers use credit isn't as simple as using your credit score like an auto lender does. Not like >720 is preferred, 719-680 is standard, etc. Each has a proprietary model that takes credit and claim history into account.

    I do agree that you should be able to get a guess from your current agent on each of those. At a minimum, they should say "if it's XLT, it's this, if it's LS, it's this", etc. It does help if you know the trim line on each of the models, as there is a difference between an Escape XLT and Escape Limited.

    The agency's probably been burnt before where they were told it was XLT and the VIN verifies it to be a Limited and the customer complains. I always ask for the trim line and tell them the rate is based on that. If they have the VIN, great. But, if the VIN, provided later, shows it to be a Limited, they only have themselves to blame, because they didn't know what the heck they were buying.
  • I did give my insurance company the trim lines that I was / am interested in (LT, XLT), although insurance company didn't seem to take that into consideration. Other any suggestions?
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    Since this didn't copy too well:

    See the PDF file at http://www.statefarm.com/media/release/vehclrate.pdf

    Note A's are the lowest premiums, C's are the highest:

    STATE FARM MUTUAL AUTOMOBILE INSURANCE COMPANY
    All Models
    MAKE
    2002 US
    MODEL
    STYLE
    2003 VSD
    2003 DTI
    MAKE
    2002 US
    MODEL
    STYLE
    2003 VSD
    2003 DTI
    KEY-- Vehicle Safety Discount (VSD)
    The 2003 VSD columns indicate the percentage discount for the
    medical payments/personal injury protection premiums
    Damage and Theft Index (DTI)
    A -- charged lower-than-standard collision and comprehensive premiums
    B -- charged standard collision and comprehensive premiums
    C -- charged higher-than-standard collision and comprehensive premiums
    2d=2-door Conv=convertible spw=sport wagon
    4d=4-door van=van 2wd=2-wheel drive
    S/W=station wagon pk=pick -up 4wd=4-wheel drive
    ACURA
    CL 2d 20% B
    MDX 4d spw 30% A
    NSX-T 2d 30% C
    RL 4d 30% A
    RSX 2d 0% C
    TL 4d 30% A
    ASTON MARTIN
    Vanquish 2d 20% B
    Vantage 2d 20% B
    Vantage Conv 20% B
    AUDI
    A4 4d 30% C
    A4 S/W 30% A
    A6 4d 40% B
    A6 S/W 40% A
    A8 4d 30% A
    Allroad S/W 40% A
    S4 4d 30% C
    S4 S/W 30% A
    S6 S/W 30% A
    S8 4d 20% B
    TT 2d 40% B
    BENTLEY
    Arnage 4d 30% A
    Azure Conv 30% A
    Continental 2d 20% A
    BMW
    325Ci 2d 30% B
    325Ci Conv 40% B
    325i 4d 30% B
    325i S/W 40% A
    330Ci 2d 30% B
    330Ci Conv 40% B
    330i 4d 30% B
    525i 4d 40% B
    525i S/W 30% A
    530i 4d 40% B
    540i 4d 40% B
    540i S/W 30% A
    745i 4d 40% A
    M 2d 30% C
    M3 2d 30% C
    M3 Conv 40% B
    BMW
    M5 4d 40% B
    X5 4d spw 30% A
    Z3 2d 40% A
    Z8 2d 30% B
    BUICK
    Century 4d 20% A
    LeSabre 4d 30% A
    Park Avenue 4d 20% A
    Regal 4d 30% A
    Rendezvous 4d spw 20% A
    CADILLAC
    DeVille 4d 30% A
    Eldorado 2d 40% A
    Escalade 4d spw 20% A
    Escalade Ext 4d spw 20% A
    Seville 4d 30% A
    CHEVROLET
    Astro van 20% A
    Avalanche 1500 4d spw 30% A
    Avalanche 2500 4d spw 30% A
    Blazer 2d spw 20% B
    Blazer 4d spw 20% A
    Camaro 2d 0% C
    Camaro Conv 20% C
    Cavalier 2d 0% C
    Cavalier 4d 0% C
    Corvette 2d 40% C
    Corvette Conv 40% C
    Express 1500 van 40% A
    Express 2500 van 40% A
    Express 3500 van 40% A
    Impala 4d 20% B
    Malibu 4d 20% B
    Monte Carlo 2d 20% C
    Prizm 4d 0% C
    S10 2wd pk 30% C
    S10 4wd pk 30% B
    Silverado 1500 2wd pk 30% B
    Silverado 1500 4wd pk 40% B
    Silverado 2500 2wd pk 40% A
    Silverado 2500 4wd pk 40% A
    Silverado HD 1500 2wd pk 30% B
    Silverado HD 1500 4wd pk 40% B
    STATE FARM MUTUAL AUTOMOBILE INSURANCE COMPANY
    All Models
    MAKE
    2002 US
    MODEL
    STYLE
    2003 VSD
    2003 DTI
    MAKE
    2002 US
    MODEL
    STYLE
    2003 VSD
    2003 DTI
    KEY-- Vehicle Safety Discount (VSD)
    The 2003 VSD columns indicate the percentage discount for the
    medical payments/personal injury protection premiums
    Damage and Theft Index (DTI)
    A -- charged lower-than-standard collision and comprehensive premiums
    B -- charged standard collision and comprehensive premiums
    C -- charged higher-than-standard collision and comprehensive premiums
    2d=2-door Conv=convertible spw=sport wagon
    4d=4-door van=van 2wd=2-wheel drive
    S/W=station wagon pk=pick -up 4wd=4-wheel drive
    CHEVROLET
    Silverado HD 2500 2wd pk 40% A
    Silverado HD 2500 4wd pk 40% A
    Silverado HD 3500 2wd pk 40% A
    Silverado HD 3500 4wd pk 30% B
    Suburban C1500 4d spw 40% A
    Suburban C2500 4d spw 20% A
    Suburban K1500 4d spw 40% A
    Suburban K2500 4d spw 30% A
    Tahoe 4d spw 30% A
    Tracker 2d spw 20% C
    Tracker 4d spw 0% C
    TrailBlazer 4d spw 20% A
    TrailBlazer EXT 4d spw 30% A
    Venture van 30% A
    CHRYSLER
    300M 4d 30% B
    Concorde 4d 20% B
    Prowler 2d 30% A
    PT Cruiser van 20% C
    Sebring 2d 10% C
    Sebring Conv 30% B
    Sebring 4d 10% C
    Town and Country van 30% A
    Voyager van 30% A
    DAEWOO
    Lanos 2d 0% C
    Lanos 4d 0% C
    Leganza 4d 0% C
    Nubira 4d 0% C
    Nubira S/W 20% B
    DODGE
    B1500 van 30% A
    B2500 van 40% A
    B3500 van 30% A
    Caravan van 20% B
    Dakota 2wd pk 30% C
    Dakota 4wd pk 20% C
    Durango 4d spw 30% B
    Grand Caravan van 20% B
    Intrepid 4d 20% B
    Neon 4d 0% C
    Ram 1500 2wd pk 20% C
    Ram 1500 4wd pk 30% C
    DODGE
    Ram 2500 2wd pk 30% C
    Ram 2500 4wd pk 30% C
    Ram 3500 2wd pk 40% C
    Ram 3500 4wd pk 20% C
    Stratus 2d 0% C
    Stratus 4d 10% C
    Viper 2d 30% C
    FERRARI
    360 Modena 2d 30% C
    360 Modena Conv 30% C
    456 GT 2d 30% C
    456 GTA 2d 30% C
    550 Barchetta 2d 30% C
    550 Maranello 2d 30% C
    FORD
    Crown Victoria 4d 20% A
    E150 van 40% A
    E250 van 40% A
    E350 van 40% A
    Escape 4d spw 30% A
    Escort 4d 10% C
    Escort ZX2 2d 0% C
    Excursion 4d spw 20% A
    Expedition 4d spw 30% A
    Explorer Sport Trac 4d spw 10% B
    Explorer 2d spw 10% B
    Explorer 4d spw 20% A
    F150 2wd pk 30% B
    F150 4wd pk 40% A
    F250 SD 2wd pk 30% A
    F250 SD 4wd pk 40% A
    F350 SD 2wd pk 40% A
    F350 SD 4wd pk 30% A
    Focus 2d 0% C
    Focus 4d 0% C
    Focus S/W 20% C
    Mustang 2d 10% C
    Mustang Conv 20% C
    Ranger 2wd pk 20% C
    Ranger 4wd pk 10% C
    Taurus 4d 20% B
    Taurus S/W 40% A
    Thunderbird 2d 20% A
    STATE FARM MUTUAL AUTOMOBILE INSURANCE COMPANY
    All Models
    MAKE
    2002 US
    MODEL
    STYLE
    2003 VSD
    2003 DTI
    MAKE
    2002 US
    MODEL
    STYLE
    2003 VSD
    2003 DTI
    KEY-- Vehicle Safety Discount (VSD)
    The 2003 VSD columns indicate the percentage discount for the
    medical payments/personal injury protection premiums
    Damage and Theft Index (DTI)
    A -- charged lower-than-standard collision and comprehensive premiums
    B -- charged standard collision and comprehensive premiums
    C -- charged higher-than-standard collision and comprehensive premiums
    2d=2-door Conv=convertible spw=sport wagon
    4d=4-door van=van 2wd=2-wheel drive
    S/W=station wagon pk=pick -up 4wd=4-wheel drive
    FORD
    Windstar van 30% A
    GMC
    Envoy 4d spw 20% A
    Envoy XL 4d spw 30% A
    Safari van 20% A
    Savana 1500 van 40% A
    Savana 2500 van 40% A
    Savana 3500 van 40% A
    Sierra 1500 2wd pk 30% B
    Sierra 1500 4wd pk 40% A
    Sierra 1500 HD 2wd pk 30% B
    Sierra 1500 HD 4wd pk 40% A
    Sierra 2500 2wd pk 30% A
    Sierra 2500 4wd pk 40% A
    Sierra 2500 HD 2wd pk 30% A
    Sierra 2500 HD 4wd pk 40% A
    Sierra 3500 2wd pk 30% A
    Sierra 3500 4wd pk 30% B
    Sonoma 2wd pk 30% B
    Sonoma 4wd pk 20% B
    Yukon 4d spw 30% A
    Yukon XL C1500 4d spw 40% A
    Yukon XL C2500 4d spw 30% A
    Yukon XL K1500 4d spw 40% A
    Yukon XL K2500 4d spw 30% A
    HONDA
    Accord 2d 10% C
    Accord 4d 10% B
    Civic 2d 0% C
    Civic 4d 10% C
    CRV 4d spw 10% A
    Insight 2d 20% C
    Odyssey van 30% A
    Passport 4d spw 10% A
    S2000 Conv 20% C
    HYUNDAI
    Accent 2d 10% C
    Accent 4d 0% C
    Elantra 4d 0% C
    Santa Fe 4d spw 20% B
    Sonata 4d 0% C
    XG350 4d 20% B
    INFINITI
    G20 4d 20% C
    I35 4d 30% A
    Q45 4d 30% B
    QX4 4d spw 20% A
    ISUZU
    Axiom 4d spw 20% A
    Rodeo 4d spw 20% B
    Rodeo Sport 2d spw 20% B
    Trooper 4d spw 20% B
    JAGUAR
    S-Type 4d 30% A
    VDP 4d 30% B
    XJ Sport 4d 30% A
    XJ Super 4d 30% A
    XJ8 4d 30% A
    XJR 4d 30% B
    XK8 2d 40% B
    XK8 Conv 40% A
    XKR 2d 40% B
    XKR Conv 40% A
    X-Type 4d 20% B
    JEEP/EAGLE
    Jeep Gr Cherokee 4d spw 30% A
    Jeep Liberty 4d spw 20% A
    Jeep Wrangler 2d spw 30% B
    KIA
    Optima 4d 10% C
    Rio 4d 0% C
    Rio S/W 20% C
    Sedona van 20% B
    Spectra 4d 0% C
    Sportage 2d spw 20% C
    Sportage 4d spw 0% C
    LAMBORGHINI
    Murcielago 2d 20% A
    LAND RO
  • tornado25atornado25a Posts: 33
    Wow. Well, then, I'd say your agent sucks. Normally, I don't like to run around bashing others in the industry, especially those I don't even know. But, to have a current client give them as much info about a vehicle, aside from the VIN (Heck, if you've got a VIN, you probably are pretty close to having a vehicle and it's a little late) and they can't quote. To be blunt, that's awful.

    It might be better to shop around, but you might run into a similiar problem, because as a new business prospect, they WILL want the VIN of the vehicles you'd be insuring and to me, that's justified.

    I DO have a suggestion, that actually just came to me. Go to the websites of the dealers that might have these vehicles. Pick an Equinox LT, and Escape XLT, etc that are equipped as you like. Often the website will show the VIN. I know for certain that on Chrysler's corporate sponsored individual dealer websites, you can actually view the stickers of the new car inventory.

    Give 'em that VIN (and say, I don't know if this is the exact one, but IF this is what I buy, what is the premium?). That should work if they've got a hard line about quoting w/ VINs. Like I said, I only use the VIN if they have it to quote because a certain seequence in the VIN tells us what the trim line is, etc and that is the only real distinction we make within a model for rating. But, if somebody TELLS me it's XLT, I believe him! And give the quote based on that.

    Hope this helps.
  • prophet2prophet2 Posts: 372
    As tornado said, a lot of information is contained within the VIN: manufacturer, model, year, trim line (base, mid-line, top-line), engine, transmission, country of origin. For Honda, features tend to be contained within each trim line (e.g. EX Accords have moonroofs, alloy wheels, CD-changers, all-power, etc.), while others like Toyota are more ala carte.

    I just picked up a used Nissan Altima. The insurance rater quickly determined it to be a 1998 Altima SE and gave me an immediate quotation as an add-on to my existing policy.

    If the agency sucks, they suck. There's no other way to say it.
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