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Got a Quick, Technical Question?
Mr_Shiftright
Member Posts: 64,481
This topic is for those of you who have a quick technical question which doesn't require an entire topic of its own, e.g., what does the code P112 mean on a scan of a 1995 ______?
We are trying to avoid ONE QUESTION TOPICS---so if you can't find an existing topic that your question fits into, from the "View All Discussions" List on this board, then ask it here and your Host will either answer it, invite a technician to answer it, or direct you to the proper topic with a link.
Okay? Okay!
We are trying to avoid ONE QUESTION TOPICS---so if you can't find an existing topic that your question fits into, from the "View All Discussions" List on this board, then ask it here and your Host will either answer it, invite a technician to answer it, or direct you to the proper topic with a link.
Okay? Okay!
1
Comments
Hopefully we can keep ahead of the posts. LOL!!
I like the idea.
Thanks!
To answer your question, we'd almost have to be inside the technician's head for a minute. What codes did he pull up with the scan to indicate replacement of th catalytic? Did he perhaps cure the symptom and not the disease, that is, some other problem caused the catalytic to burp pretty badly?
I think you just have to give the dealer another try and also assume that you have a 99.9% good car with a .01% problem. Hardly a "lemon" at this point in time.
If you get into "lemon-head", you will get sour on the vehicle and every little thread out of place will annoy you.
So I'd say stay positive and give the dealer another chance.
We also have a HUGE on-going MDX topic, and you may wish to drop in there and pose this question, to see if other owners went throught the same thing and how their problem was solved.
The link is:
Acura MDX Topic
good luck with it,
Host
Host
"Only fluids of the type labeled Mopar ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) Type 9602 should be used"
Unless you find this exact type, you had better buy it from the dealer, as any other fluid will probably harm your transmission in the long run.
Personally I can't see the value of saving maybe $15 on 4 quarts of fluid (8.6 with torque converter drained) and buying questionable fluid, or even the RIGHT fluid, but having to drive around all day to find it.
I'd just pony up at the dealer and sleep well at night.
Now here's another question - I don't have the equipment to flush the transmission, like some shops do, so is there a way to get all of the fluid out?
It's easy enough to drop the pan, change the filter and refill, but that always seem stupid to me, since you're leaving 4-8 quarts of contaminated fluid in the transmission. You're only making it a little better, it seems.
I know it sounds weird, because I'm a hard-core car guy, but I've only owned three automatic transmission vehicles in my LIFE!
Hello, I have a 1997 Saturn L-Series 4 door, 4 Cyl. Car that won't start. I replaced my spark plugs and there was somr oil around them. I ran a diagnonstic and the error message that came up was: Cam Shaft Sensor Error, Bank One. Does anyone know what that means and what the problem might me? Any information would be extremely helpful. Thank you
Now here's another question - I don't have the equipment to flush the transmission, like some shops do, so is there a way to get all of the fluid out?
It's easy enough to drop the pan, change the filter and refill, but that always seem stupid to me, since you're leaving 4-8 quarts of contaminated fluid in the transmission. You're only making it a little better, it seems.
I know it sounds weird, because I'm a hard-core car guy, but I've only owned three automatic transmission vehicles in my LIFE!
Oil around the plugs, the owner didn't say whether it's an SL1 single cam or SL2 double cam engine. If SL2, it needs a valve cover gasket.
If still extended crank or no start after plugs and wires, check fuel pressure. Should be 38-44 psi and hold there after key off.
Another possibility re a no-start is a jumped timing chain caused by the nylon shoe falling apart on the chain guide. If so, the exhaust valves are dinked and the head has to come off. There's usually lots of warning in the form of a rattle out of the front of the engine for a while before the chain jumps.
Dave
If you look behind the grill, about the area between the radiator and the airbox, it should be in there somewhere.
But a bad plug wire is also possible. Maybe a good tune up will cure it, and testing for a vacuum leak isn't that hard.
Last week I noticed that the tachometer showed 2500 rpm at highway speeds (75+ mph) and the shift was in D and the OD was on. It ran at the higher-than-normal revs for over 100 miles and later dropped to the normal 1800 rpm. Problem has not recurred.
Question: Is it time to flush and change Transmission fluid? Or, does the Maxima have a sealed unit that does not require the fluid replaced? If yes, What is the recommended frequency? I have not done an ATF changeout in the last 5 years.
Would appreciate any feedback / similar experience.
Drove the car about 150 miles, then it suddenly overheated - warped heads, blown head gaskets, leaking radiator, O2 sensors ruined.
Mechanic says not his fault - car was running warm previously. I say has never gotten this hot (before or since), so loose radiator cap is prime suspect.
Can anyone confirm or deny either argument?
Thanks,
AET
A pressurized cooling system has a higher boiling point than a non-pressurized system. Something like 2 lbs pressure raises boiling point 1 degree (did I get that right, guys?).
So yes, a cooling system with relieved pressure would boil over sooner than one with pressure.
However, if your car had a pre-existing condition, it could be argued that this was an inevitable result regardless of cap on or off.
Were I Solomon the Great, I would decree that the mechanic accept a partial responsibility and give you a break on parts or labor, without admitting any "guilt".