Got a Quick, Technical Question?

Mr_Shiftright · May 2005

Yeah, "choke" implies literally the choking off of air to get a rich mixture for start up, whereas fuel injection uses a fuel enrichment valve or similar system to get the rich mixture, informed by sensors.

mazda626atx · May 2005

I am preparing a comprehensive listing of my problems. I sent you an Email . Is it OK to proceed ?
THX
PGP

american_idle · May 2005

I have a 95 Ford Escort 1.9L that has sat unused/unstarted since last summer. I want to be able to crank it for a bit to circulate oil before having it start up. I don't know if the easy way, just disconnecting the plug wires is acceptable. My fear is that this could cause harm to the electronic ignition system or would at least cause a fault code to be set that I wouldn't have any idea how to clear. Also, should I squirt oil down the plug holes before cranking?
Could someone please point me in the right direction on this? I don't have a manual for the car but could probably borrow one from a library if necessary.
Thanks for any help. :confuse:

Mr_Shiftright · May 2005

I THINK you're okay if you ground the primary coil wire or the plug wires but let's ask or when they show up.

alcan · May 2005

Yep. Can't guarantee a fix but I'll see what I can do.

alcan · May 2005

Remove the #1 30A fuel injector fuse from the underhood fuse panel near the battery. It won't hurt to squirt some oil into each plug hole, crank it over, then replace the plugs.

mazda626atx · May 2005

ALCAN,
I am going to send you a test email first to make sure you get it because I only have Yahoo email not outlook !
When I get a reply that you received it I will send you an accurate description of the problems.
Thx In advance Peter

mazda626atx · May 2005

Well here it goes. My mazda 626 4 cyl atx had the CEL coming on when warmed up and faster than 40 mph. I installed a Hayden tranny cooler (plate and fin) type and now light comes on after 2 mins and at much lower speeds and stays on much longer. Is there anything that the change in positioning transmission lines would do to change the appearance of the CEL?
I have retrieved codes 159 MAF and 181 O2 sensor. As Mr Shiftright pointed out that doesnt mean the sensors are dead. Could be circuits or wires. I have looked at them as well as I could and found nothing. Cleaned MAF with computer compressed air can, cleared codes then the CEL did not come on till 60 MPH . Now back to coming on at low speeds
Does the change in when CEL comes on help you to figure out which sensor and what is wrong, so I do not have to just change both sensors. Car is in Greece and I am going in about 3 weeks.
Only other symptoms are : impossible to maintain 2000 rpm ( surges up to 2500 and drops back to 1500) when parked, and loss of power when pulling uphill in mountainous elevations.
Can a bad MAf create a O2 sensor code also ?
Thx Peter

rbillieux · May 2005

It will re-set then come back on both by dis-connecting battery and by meter if erased by meter car runs good for a while till message comes back on I first noticed not slowing down after installing cheap muffler transmission shifting also affected--will not slow even if put in low

american_idle · May 2005

Thanks alcan,

That sounds like exactly what I needed to know.

alcan · May 2005

Peter, let's go back to basics. When the engine's first started, it runs in open loop with the ECU controlling fuel injector pulse width (and air/fuel ratio) based on inputs from the following sensors: throttle position, engine coolant temp, mass airflow, manifold absolute pressure (if equipped), and r.p.m. The ECU goes into closed loop control when the O2 sensor warms up, about 700*F, and starts generating a voltage signal feedback to the ECU based on the oxygen left over in the exhaust stream. The ECU can now more precisely control fuel delivery. Usually if an O2 sensor signal is lost the engine stays in open loop, resulting in a bit richer air/fuel mixture and decreased fuel economy but not the symptoms you describe.

Considering that the symptoms changed after you accessed the MAF sensor, I'd be inclined to think there's a problem with the sensor itself. If it's giving the ECU a false signal re the amount of air the engine's ingesting, the air/fuel ratio would be skewed resulting in the driveability problems, CEL, and O2 sensor code. Which brings me to another issue, Mazda has been famous for developing cracks in the air inlet ducting between the MAF sensor and the throttle body, allowing unmetered air to enter the engine and resulting in a lean mixture causing the same symptoms. More than one has been temporarily fixed using duct tape, which is probably the only time it's been used to actually seal a duct. Any chance you could drop a dime (or 2 or 20) on a call to Greece and have somebody remove and inspect the ducting?

Btw, how did you retrieve the stored trouble codes? My info differs from yours:

http://www.troublecodes.net/mazda/

mazda626atx · May 2005

My Car has the EEC IV version FORD diagnostic OBDI connector PLUS the Mazda DLC. The mazda DLC only has 6 pins in it : +B, GND, FBS , FSC,TBS,TSC which according to the haynes manual are either cruise control , or abs . The Ford EEC IV connector has a sti and sto but not grd in it. I jumped the STI to the battery and read the codes off the check engine light directly as per the Haynes manual. According to the manual the car should have either or, but I have incomplete versions of both. I guess Mazda was in a transition year then (1994). I have inspected the ducting visually without removing it and found nothing. Maybe removing it and checking it better is in order.
I think what you suggest barring the ducting being cracked would be to replace the MAF first. I have found only Bosch parts for this car I hope they will not be a problem as the original parts Number is a Ford.Does the inability to hold 2000 rpm indicate anything more than sensors struggling with mixture ??
My codes are 3 digits as per the book
THx a lot ALCAN

Mr_Shiftright · May 2005

Alcan also brings up a good point worth mentioning here but that he did not emphasize.

The O2 sensor is really for fine-tuning mixture--a defective 02 is not likely to cause really severe driveability issues, but people keep replacing them with, of course, no solution to their problem.

A defective 02 code also is not a slam-dunk indication of a faulty 02 sensor, only that something is probably tickling it in a way it doesn't like.

mazda626atx · May 2005

Could the MAF be tickling it? Could it be a 10 year old car in a HOT dry country where the wiring is half cooked and I should just disregard it if I see no serious problem ? Questions Questions Questions.
The real concern is that the last time this car had sensor problems they progressed to the HOLD light, tranny clunking etc, and eventual tranny rebuild that was 95% unnecessary even according to tranny rebuilder. So I am a little gun shy when the CEL comes on.
Thats what half baked mechanics like me try to answer. If I get the right answer I will feel a great sense of accomplishment with the help of guys like you my PAL

Thx PGP

mazda626atx · May 2005

Alcan the symptoms actually changed after I installed the externall tranny cooler. At least the incidence of symptoms. But I can not remember if I got the MAF sensor code before installing the cooler or not.I know for certain that I got it after . So much stuff I did and my memory is shot
Peter

alcan · May 2005

Might be coincidental or you might have jostled the air intake ducting. I think what I'd do in your position is buy the MAF sensor (Bosch is fine), but ask if it can be returned IF NOT OPENED OR INSTALLED. Most part houses don't like electrical returns because the end user can fry them with improper installation, but if it's not been installed they might. The worst that can happen that way is you'll have to pay the postage to send it back.

mazda626atx · May 2005

Wonderful ! You just jostled my memory . When the guy was installing the external tranny cooler he had to unbolt the radiator and push it away from fascia to make room to get his hand in for the fasteners. Thats about all I think he may have jostled. Prolly not significant. If you think it could be let me know.
Does the inability to hold 2000 (surge to
2500 and then fall back to 1500 ) mean anything to you? I have never experienced anything like it before in any car.
I am going to ask wife to have a mechanic take a look at the ducting. Otherwise I will buy the Bosch and take a chance that the MAF is the culprit. It will prolly cost more to send back to US than it costs LOL
I may be stuck stateside for a while but I will most certainly let you know how I made out.
Again Many Thanks
Peter

rbillieux · May 2005

Stupid engine light went off by itself trans shifting normalily rpm normal not racing in park code still on meter--map sensor and codes pending and up and down indicated did not erase this time--last time light came back on- :confuse: convinced muffler very little slowing down when put into low at 40 mph Bob

rbillieux · May 2005

Well got rid of one code--got another---one that says heat sensor in thansmission not working properly 17011 --not slowing down--shifting funny-not going into high gear till 40 MPH-engine surging--almost stall then up to 3000 releasing in park only wnen gas is floored R Billieux--@&&^%%$^&* :mad:

smearp · May 2005

Hello All-

I'm not sure what details will help, so I'll post what I know, and I will be glad to clarify anything that may help.

I have a '94 Chrysler LeBaron with a tad over 200,000 miles. It has been running like a champ; until recently, when 2 problems cropped up at the same time. 1) My car was took longer and longer to start, and 2) It started hesitating quite noticeably when accelerating. That is to say, you step on the gas and nothing happens for 1-3 seconds, and then it accelerates with not problems. I took it into a mechanic after it stopped starting at all, and he replaced the starter (which he said was soaked in oil from some bad gaskets that should also be replaced).

It now starts up fine, but the hesitation has only gotten worse. I tried some Fuel Injector cleaner, and for one day the car ran fine, but I have now gone through two tanks of gas with two treatments of fuel injector cleaner, and the problem is only getting worse. I am having to anticipate any acceleration I may need to do, and step on the gas a few seconds before doing so. Sometimes, if I start the car up and put it in reverse, it starts shaking as if it is going to die, and I get the impression that it is not getting gas or air... Other than this particular (although admittedly severe) problem, the car has been a trooper and I would really hate to get rid of it.

Is there anything I can do myself or things I should look out for? Spark Plugs, Fuel Injectors? Fuel Pump? It is not a problem that built up over time, it happened rather suddenly (in the space of around a week). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,

-Sean

Mr_Shiftright · May 2005

Ever replaced your catalytic converter? You can install a temporary by-pass tube to test it. If your problems go away, there's your answer. Otherwise, you might want to have the tail-pipe sniffed, and also read the trouble codes.

fblack · May 2005

I've found a 98 Grand Marquis with 28,000 miles at a local dealer for 8150. Seems like a good deal, only I've heard some bad things about the plastic intake manifolds. I guess some Crown Vics got a recall but not the Marquis, even though people have reported it cracking. Is this a common or inevitable problem? I really like the car but will have to get them to knock down the price before I would buy it without getting the intake manifold replaced. I'd just like to know how much of a problem I should consider this before making a decision.

crankshaft · May 2005

last year my brother bought a 97.everything seemed ok until the third day.he was getting on the freeway when he noticed steam coming from under the hood.you guessed it,a cracked intake manifold.he had the dealer replace it withthe latest revision.the new ones are built better in the area where they always crack behind the alternator.if yours is original,it will go sooner or later.it is just a weak part and there is a alternator support even attached to it.other than that they are great cars for the money.

prlady1 · May 2005

Care to read about a problem we had with our 2000 S40 yesterday? The car appeared to be accelerating when it was coasting and no pedal was pushed. My husband pulled into a parking lot; the car began revving its engine up at 4500 RPMs when it was in park. He shut it off and had trouble restarting it. Then, he got the car started and driving again but then smoke started billowing out from under the hood and coolant was obviously leaking. He had the car towed the rest of the way to the dealership; the service advisor said the temp sensor went bad and caused the engine to rev because it perceived the engine was not hot enough. He says we need to change the temp sensor, thermostat, lower radiator hose and replace all the antifreeze and reset the OBDII to account for the new components. He also said it was time to do a transmission flush and I knew that was something we'd do at the next service interval so I gave him the ok. He estimated the total bill at $650-675 and that includes $110 for the transmission flush. Any thoughts?

Mr_Shiftright · May 2005

Well those are "dealer prices" but if all this makes the car like new again, there's no complaint. Not sure about the sensor being "bad" though....if there's no water in the system, the sensor won't read right anyway, and I don't think the bad sensor explains a 4,500 rpm level (at least not to me, the way you describe it).

But again, if the car gets fixed then whatever they did is worth it. You could have lost that engine in a red hot minute.

burdawg · May 2005

I can see a failed temp sensor causing a PCM to think the engine was cold and run at a somewhat higher idle than normal, but not 4500 rpm. It sounds to me more like something in the cooling system failed, hence the "smoke" (probably actually steam) from under the hood, the need for a new radiator hose and coolant. I don't know about that causing the engine to rev....could coolant have been blown into an electrical module and caused that?

Mr_Shiftright · May 2005

That's the part that doesn't make sense dawg, and I'm not buyin' that part....and I'm not sure he should be "buying that part" either.....but if the sensor is not too expensive, what the hell....

fritz6 · May 2005

My 1986 nissan pickup wont start. It run for awhile then died and would not start for a day or two then it would start every time for two or three weeks then would act up again and do it all over again. I have a new starter in it, good battery, 40 pounds of fuel pressure, I even tried starting fluid but still wouldnt run. Truck will turn over but wont start. Thanks Brad

Mr_Shiftright · May 2005

Well if it won't start with starter fluid then you have an ignition problem, so you know that much.

rtlattimer · May 2005

I need to know what position the cmp sensor reluctor wheel on exaust cam goes.
it has 5 lobes 4 equaly spaced and 1 in the midle of 2 of the 4.
do the 4 equaly spaced lobes corespond to the cam lobes, and the 5th to just before tdc. on number 1 cylinder? :confuse:

bolivar · May 2005

Wild guess - your fuel pump, probably inside the fuel tank, is failing.

Putting several cans of fuel treatment through the gas probably only made it worse. The cleaner/solvents in the treatment probably made the windings in the pump deterorate even more.

Have your fuel pressure tested. A gauge can be screwed into a schrader valve on the engine. If it is having idle problems, you should be able to see low pressure then.

millspd · May 2005

Hey All,

I had a bad morning today and scratched the glass on my drivers side rearview mirror on my Toyota Avalon. It's about 3 inches across, fortunately towards the upper part of the glass so not a complete distraction in the mirror.

Does anyone have any recommendation for products, etc. to minimize the mess I made?

Thanks!
Paul

edward780 · May 2005

hi i have a 1999 millenia s. it runs and drives fine for bout 15 minutes. then the tcs and the tcs problem light come on. i have to key off and on to reset it. after doing this several times the cel is now on. i have looked and looked for vacuum leaks but could not find any. also i checked the abv vent solinod and the abv vacuum solinid . the only thing i found is that the 2 solinoids are powerd on when ever the engine is running and i don't know if they should be. any help would be great thanks ed

alcan · May 2005

Have the stored trouble codes retrieved and post them. AutoZone will do it no charge.

mazda626atx · May 2005

What is the TCS? The 1999 is OBD 2. So you should be able to scan it accurately. What is the ABV ? I have a book thru 2001 and see nothing about those letterr.
Peter

searcher3 · May 2005

I'm comparing two Chrysler Town & Country Limiteds. One has a towing package but is $1200. more. (Package value is $600.) I do not intend to tow anything but I drive in 115 degree heat and start and stop frequently or leave the car running for air conditioning. Will the tow package feature help control heat in the transmission and oil? Is it worth paying the extra money?

Thank you,
Searching3

edward780 · May 2005

edward780 · May 2005

hi the only stored code is p1450 (abv) abv is air bypass valve. i checked all the vacuum hoses and the abv vacuum and the abv vent solinoid valves.the valves work on a bench test but i did notice that when the engine is running they seem to be energized at all times? tcs is the tracton control system. when the off light goes on the car will not go above 2500 rpm. that is very dangerous for a young girl to be driving

edward780 · May 2005

sorry code number is p1540 air bypass valve

twodogs1 · May 2005

I've got a 1990 Geo Tracker. When I turn the key to on, I do not have voltage to the electric fuel pump. My books says check the fuse and the fuel pump relay. Where are they located? Thanks!

aroman · May 2005

Hi there! We have a 93 Geo Prizm, standard with a little over 123,000 miles. after fueling at a gas station, as we drive away the engine starts knocking. After about 15 minutes we pull over, wait for then engine to cool, check the oil and see that it is low. We pour oil in and while it's not a whole container, when we check the level it reads almost full. Get back in and drive away, the knocking is not as loud or consistent but it is still present. The knocking begins to get louder so we pull over again. When we check the oil again, it reads low. We pour a liter of oil in. As we drive away the knocking continues. We kept driving (because we were FAR away from home with our infant daughter) stopping only for about an hour. At this point, the car begins to stall out. Eventually we got over the bridge but by the end of the night, we just pushed it to a parking spot and left it there. Our mechanic looked at it and said that the engine had no oil in it. They poured a large amount of oil in to it and started it up but of course the knocking was still there. The mechanic suspects a leak though I have never seen any oil where we park. (I suspect that it was burning) He also thinks that the engine is pretty much gone. He suspects the rattling is a bearing or something that's broken off or loose and is rattling around whenever the car is started. Is the engine really gone? We've only owned the car for 2 months. Any advice would be appreciated. Sincerely, Azul

qbrozen · May 2005

wow. sorry to hear your problems after just 2 months. Hopefully, though, since its a 12-year-old Prizm with well over 100K miles, you paid far less than $1K for it.

It sounds as if its a serious enough problem that it will not be worth fixing.

carseeker1 · May 2005

i have a bonneville it will not start sometimes - if i wait a few minutes or an hour it will start, sometimes it has cut off while driving - i was told that it was the fuel pump, but not sure - mechanic told me that fuel was too hot - causing car not to fire - why would the fuel be hot and could it be the fuel module ? any suggestions?

gigin · May 2005

Have 93 Grand Am,3.3eng, Runs rough at times ,no power at times,stalls at times,gets better when car warms up.Check eng. light comes on for a couple of seconds then goes out. Code 26 and 27 sometimes stored. Cannot get good info.from after market manuals. code 26 and 27 are quad driver circuit problems, replaced ecm and problem still persist. I have steady 40 psi of fuel press.also checked spark with spark tester, ok. also checked injector pulse with noid light checks ok.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

gigin · May 2005

When car stalls and wont restart you have to check fuel pres.and check for spark.also check for injector pulse.this will lead you in the right direction.

robotbob40 · May 2005

IT WONT START IT HAS POWER AND IF I TURN ON KEY AND CROSS STARTER IT WILL START RUN FOR A FEW SECONDS AND THEN DIE , BEFORE IT DID THIS IT HAD THE SECURITY LIGHT GOING ON AND OFF INTERMITTENTLY, PLEASE HELP :confuse:

nikon101 · May 2005

Hi,
I have a '91 Grand Am, 2.5L, Vin "U". I just changed the plugs & I'm getting different firing orders. The owners guide says, 1-3-4-2, the GM service manual says 1-4-3-2. The old set of wires were 1-4-2-3.! Right now I have the old arrangement(1-4-2-3) & she runs ok, but it's always had terrible mileage.
Anybody know what it should be?
Thanks,
Paul

bobintampa · May 2005

I mentioned to someone that I put Sam's club gas in our new Honda CRV and he said 'I wouldn't do that - Sam's club is inferior gas'. Any thoughts? IMO i thought all gas had to meet some minimum standards. Thanks in advance - Bob

akangl · May 2005

I've used it in my Nissan Titan with no trouble, however if I put anything other than Chevron in my Zippy (2004 Ford Focus ZX3) it will pitch a fit.

stever · May 2005

There's supposedly only one gasoline pipeline serving my area, so all the gas is the same. The various brands add their additives to the truck loads when they deliver it to the gas stations.

Check out the What about fuel types & gas mileage? discussion too.

Steve, Host

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