Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Got a Quick, Technical Question?

1…8384868889…114

Comments

  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I can only give you some general info about pressure hoses.

    The high pressure hose usually has special fittings on the end, and this is why they are sold as a service part at the dealer.

    Usually, the return hose is just a regular hydralic hose with orginary clamps holding it in place. I does not carry high pressure, so no special fittings are needed.

    Any aftermarket parts house should be able to sell you the needed length of hydrolic hose. And you should be able to put it on with screw clamps. You would probably need to remove the blown one, to get a length measurement, and also the size.

    Many of these parts houses can also fabricate the high pressure hose, some time using the old end fittings.

    If you cannot find a parts house that messes with these hoses, go to a tractor dealership. Their parts department deals with hydralic pressure hoses all the time.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

    1. Gear outlet pipe/hose from pump reservoir after sliding spring hose clamp from inlet reservoir tube.
    2. Raise vehicle.
    3. Line retainer (if applicable).
    4. Gear outlet pipe/hose from steering gear.
    5. Gear outlet pipe/hose from vehicle.

    INSTALL OR CONNECT

    1. Gear outlet pipe/hose into position on vehicle.
    2. Gear outlet pipe to the steering gear. Tighten

    o Pipe to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) .

    3. Line retainer (if applicable).
    4. Lower vehicle.
    5. Gear outlet pipe/hose to pump reservoir and spring clamp. Important: Bleed air from system.

    o Inspect for leaks.

    6. Lower vehicle.
    7. Fill with fluid and bleed system if necessary. (IF NECESSARY!)
    8. Check for leaks.

    If you HAVE to bleed the system.

    Bleed air from the system after replacing the fluid or servicing the power steering hydraulic system. Air in the system prevents an accurate fluid level reading, causes pump cavitation noise, and over time, could damage the pump. To bleed the power steering system, proceed as follows:

    Important: When adding fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use GM P/N 1050017 (or equivalent meeting GM Spec. No. 9985010) power steering fluid. Failure To use the proper fluid will cause hose and seal damage and fluid leaks.

    1. With the engine off and front wheels lifted off the ground and turned all the way to the left, add either standard power steering fluid or optional cold climate fluid to the "Full Cold" mark on the fluid level indicator. Important: This may require turning the wheels from side to side several times. Keep the fluid level at the "Full Cold" mark. Fluid with air in it has a tan appearance. This air must be eliminated before normal steering action can be obtained.
    2. Bleed the system by turning the wheels from side to side without hitting the stops.
    3. Start the engine. With the engine idling, recheck the fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to bring the level to the "Full Cold" mark.
    4. Return the wheels to the center position. Lower front wheels to ground. Continue running the engine for two or three minutes.
    5. Road test the vehicle to be sure the steering functions normally and is free from noise. Inspect

    o Inspect for fluid leakage at connection points along the power steering system.

    6. Recheck the fluid level as described in Steps 2 and 3, except that the fluid level should now be up to the "FULL HOT" mark after the system has stabilized at its normal operating temperature.
  • widriver2widriver2 Member Posts: 36
    How often should I get a 4-wheel alignment? The dealer seems to want to do this all the time.
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    I'd say whenever you get 4 new tires to have the alignment checked. No need to align if checks out okay. Otherwise, only if you are having trouble with tire wear or vehicle pulling to one side or another.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • wealthwarrantywealthwarranty Member Posts: 11
    I have a crazy tail light problem maybe someone here may have a clue to fix. All of a sudden my rear right passenger side tailight doesn't work. not bulbs, looked, and changed them all, but here is symptoms. The night light section will not light, this is one element bulb, so seperate from brake and signal circuit. The turn signals work when lights are off fine, but with lights on, the brake light also connects and blinks with turn signal, and when lights are off, brake light does not work? I changed unit with driver side to isolate problem, and unit worked fine, so it has to be in wiring, but where to look? Any problem areas anyone can suggest, front or rear would help. lol

    Thanks, Mike
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check to make sure front light bulb elements are not crossed or defective. Defective bulbs in the front crossing the wiring, can cause weird things in the rear.
  • atvman29atvman29 Member Posts: 7
    2.2 L I4
    Auto Trans
    62,000
    On my 2003 Cavalier, the instrument cluster seems to be sticky. The gauges go up but usually don't come back down when the car is shut off. Is this a common problem? I've called some dealerships and all they say is "well for $400 we can replace it." So does anyone know how to fix this problem? Is it best to get it replaced or get it repaired by someone who fixes them?
  • victor_gallaghvictor_gallagh Member Posts: 7
    I would think this is normal as most of the guages in fairly new cars have balanced meter movements. When the ignition is turned off, the guage usually stays where it was just before being turned off. Look at some othe vehicles in your area... Hope this helps.

    Victor
  • atvman29atvman29 Member Posts: 7
    well its not normal though because then on restart, the gauges set the zero mark as where they got stuck. So if I have a full tank of gas, and the needle gets stuck at half tank, once the car is started back up the needle goes a half tank past the full tank mark. My gas gauge is pointing at 6 o'clock right now and the markings go from roughly 7-12.
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    in the shop.... most late modols guages reset to zero when starting the car if not maybe software glich?
  • atvman29atvman29 Member Posts: 7
    i don't think its software because I can hear a grinding type noise when they get stuck going down.
  • diton908diton908 Member Posts: 7
    i was told that the clutch system on my truck wasn't ajustable but i know of a bleeder on the slave i just replaced the master, slave cly and the line between the two now how do i bleed this i know how to bleed brakes is it the same or different thank you for you time and if you could help me that would be great thank you

    Diton908
    95 Chevy 2500 5.7 350V8 4x4
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Clutch hydraulics can be a bit more temperamental but the idea is the same as for brakes.

    Here's what I'd do.

    I'd buy some brass plugs, remove the line from the master cylinder and plug it. Then I'd pump up the master (the clutch master I mean) and bleed it from this brass plug (just unscrew it and screw it back until the clutch pedal feels really hard).

    THEN after bleeding the master, I'd re-attach the line and using very short rapid strokes (instead of long ones like with brakes), I'd pump fluid down the line, through the slave bleeder and into a clear glass jar already filled with fluid. In this way, no air can enter the system when you let off the clutch pedal, and you also don't need two people. All you have to do is keep adding fluid in the master so that it doesnt empty out---if it goes empty, you'll be pumping air, and you'll have to start ALL OVER AGAIN.

    If this doesn't work, you'll have to rent or borrow a power bleeder.

    One time I had an extra cap for the master cylinder, so I drilled a hole in it and ran a piece of aquarium tubing through it and attached the other end of the tubing to a small can of compressed air. This basically pressurized the master cylinder and forced fluid down. That was on a Saab, which are a DEVIL to bleed.
  • diton908diton908 Member Posts: 7
    the master is pre bled from the factory so i shouldn't have to bleed it right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    How could it be pre-bled if it is empty?
  • acemcsherryacemcsherry Member Posts: 4
    Hello to all.....I have an 07 GMC Sierra Classic 1500 pickup 5.3L V8 and I'm trying to find out what springs would be visible, or accessible in the engine when the valve cover is removed. I had service done and the service rep told me something and the service manager told me something else. All I have to go off of is the receipt with the mechanics' notes.
  • diton908diton908 Member Posts: 7
    the box said it was prebled but i try bleeding i like you told me thank you for the help
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The valve springs. You know, the ones that close the valves after the rocker arm pushes them open. In some cases, there's springs on the rocker arm assembly that hold the rocker arms in place on the shaft, but I don't think that's the case with a 5.3.
  • diton908diton908 Member Posts: 7
    the front right shock mount broke found out that it has been broke befour then welded back together the whole bracket is welded to to frame can i buy this whole bracket or do i need to get it welded back somewhere
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Is your suspension raised or lowered from the original? or, are you doing a lot of off roading or something that could damage the suspension parts? Seems unusual that you would break a shock mount.....twice. If suspension height was changed, and the shock length wasn't adjusted accordingly, then I could see the shock bottoming out and putting stress on the shock mount...potentially breaking it. I guess it might also be stressed if the shocks were changed and the wrong shocks were put on.
  • diton908diton908 Member Posts: 7
    i bought it lifted and the shock bracket was already broken but already welded but i didn't see it the metal bracket is bent but i only broke it once they guy i bought it from broke it first i guess they are the the original shocks at least they look like it
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Ahh Huh,

    Get a good suspension guy to fix it. Since the vehicle is lifted, he needs to set up the new shock mount, with a shock that is the correct length. When the a-frame moves up all the way to it's stop, the shock should not have bottomed out yet. When the a-frame moves all the way down to it's other stop, the shock should not be fully extended.

    If the shock is not the correct length to work with the suspension range, it will either fail or break the shock mount as yours has done. The shock mounts are not sized to handle the weight of the vehicle on them (as in what you would get it the shock bottomed out). The normal pressures on a shock mount, are no more than what it takes to compress a shock, or extend a shock.
  • diton908diton908 Member Posts: 7
    ok thank you for all of that but all i would like to know is if the bracket is sold some where or do i need to weld it back
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If you weld it back, without fixing the underlying problem as to why it broke twice to begin with, it will break again.

    The vehicle is lifted, you apparently need either different shock mounts, or different shocks, or both depending upon how they modified your truck. You need to get it to a good suspension shop who is familiar with modifying suspensions.

    If you don't want to do it right, if you have the part then just go have it welded somewhere. That will be the quickest cheapest way to 'fix' it.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Any Chevy dealer has a parts man with a parts book (ok, now it is a computer) that answers that question.
  • gajeca1929gajeca1929 Member Posts: 6
    to all the experts so call Book Mechanics.Forget about the above message.Have it Running.
  • tink2tink2 Member Posts: 2
    I am replacing my headlight bulp, passenger side, Have the battery and reservior out and cant get the bulb retainer ring loose, any suggestions? :confuse:
  • tink2tink2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 honda accord se 272K automatic and I am trying to replace the headlamp on the passenger side. I have the battery out and the reservior but can't get the retaining ring around the lamp to turn so i may pull out the bulb assembly. Any suggestions? :confuse: :confuse:
  • noplainjanenoplainjane Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    We have a 97 Geo Metro with a 4 cylinder.
    Automatic transmission High mileage
    Recently we began having problems with it staying running until eventually it would not even start at all. A friend suggested we replace the throttle positioning sensor, which made sense, so we did.
    Now it starts, no problem, unfortunately, the throttle is stuck WIDE open and will not throttle down. We tried resetting the computer but that did not help. We can’t leave it running long enough to mess with it for fear it will blow up. And don’t really have a clue as to where to start.
    Does anyone have any suggestions?
    With fuel prices approaching $4 a gallon in Washington state, it would be so nice to have the Geo running again.
    Thank you in advance.
    Janie
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Here's what the book says to do AFTER you install the TPS:

    Adjustment Procedure
    Using a Digital Multimeter (J 39200 or equivalent) perform the following steps:

    1. Insert a 3.5 mm (0.14-inch) feeler gage between the throttle stop screw and the throttle lever.
    2. Inspect the Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor plunger. If the ISC motor plunger is contacting the throttle lever screw, then the engine must be brought to operating temperature.
    3. Back probe the TP sensor signal circuit at the PCM connector to ground.
    4. Turn ON the ignition.
    5. While observing TP sensor voltage on the DVM, turn the TP sensor until the voltage reading is 0.98 to 1.02 volts . Tighten the TP sensor screws to 2.0 Nm (18 lb. in.) . Using a scan tool perform the following steps:

    1. Insert a 3.5 mm (0.14-inch) feeler gage between the throttle stop screw and the throttle lever.
    2. Inspect the Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor plunger. If the ISC motor plunger is contacting the throttle lever screw, then the engine must be brought to operating temperature.
    3. Connect a scan tool to the Data Link Connector (DLC) and select the TP sensor voltage parameter.
    4. Turn ON the ignition.
    5. While observing TP sensor voltage on the scan tool, turn the TP sensor until the voltage reading is 0.98 to 1.02 volts . Tighten the TP sensor screws to 2.0 Nm (18 lb. in.) .
  • ljgbjgljgbjg Member Posts: 374
    Had same problem with my '88 Trnas Am 5.0. It was a little part in the distributor that would get too warm. I cannot remember exactly what it was but it was NOT a fuel problem - an electrical problem. I was in DC with it near the tidal basin - just completely died - coasted into the tidal basin - let it sit about 15 minutes - started right up. Got back on I-95 and about 15 minutes later it did the same thing. Coasted off an exit and waited. Started again, went to the nearby Chevy dealer and they could not tell me immediately what it was. Got back to Fredericksburg and went to a local auto parts place - they knew IMMEDIATELY what it was. I put the part in - bingo. Problem solved. Just go to a GOOD parts store with some guys who know cars and explain your problem - it is not uncommon. Good luck.
  • harboharbo Member Posts: 136
    2004 Audi A8 4.2 V8 6 spd auto, 50K miles.
    Battery 100%. Vehicle has lights, radio accessories. Will not start. Cannot get tranny out of Park to load vehicle. Where's the manual disconnect for Park?
  • rhorowitzrhorowitz Member Posts: 1
    BMW Z3 convertible
    6 cylinder 2.3 liter
    auto
    56,000 miles

    Does anybody know what causes codes 171 and 174, banks are too lean?

    Thanks-Rose
  • harboharbo Member Posts: 136
    Found the manual disconnect for Park. Under the ash tray and works great. Now why won't it start ??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You mean it cranks and cranks but doesn't start, or it won't even crank?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Also, how do you know the battery is 100%? Not just because the accessories and lights work, right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    What year?

    Which engine? There is no 2.3 I don't think.

    Let's presume a 2001 2.5 engine:

    These are generic trouble codes and are not the same as BMW factory codes, so using just the generic codes can lead to false conclusions.

    Possibilities include:

    bad fitting oil cap (where you add oil)

    vacuum leak in manifold or in some vacuum line

    bad oxygen sensors

    bad/dirty/maladjusted MAF sensor

    the engine is apparently running lean (fuel mixture incorrect) for some reason.
  • harboharbo Member Posts: 136
    Car systems check shows battery at 90%. Manual says 60 / 80%. O.K.
    Will not crank. Thought it might have been the starter, however there is no power to the windows as well. Power to trunk, radio, lights etc.

    Hmmm ... maybe the ignition switch since I have had the intermitent key issue over the past year. ??
  • rob113rob113 Member Posts: 3
    recently i have heard the car knocking on accerleraction
    i replaced the plugs and changed all fluids
    car still sounds like it has bad gas / if got 2 or 3 tank fulls
    same noise.
    does anyone have this problem
  • rob113rob113 Member Posts: 3
    some cars have an in line fuse check your cars manual.
    it should be some place close to the battery terminals
  • escanabajoshescanabajosh Member Posts: 1
    okay so i put a new wiper pulse board in my girlfriends car, a 2002 grand prix GT 3800 v-6, auto,about 110,000 miles.the problom is the wipers were staying upright in the OFF position.

    the problom is that i put the new one on and had her turn the car key to the ON postion, wel the wiper motor cycled and i figured it was fixed....so i put it all back together and then had her try it and the wiper arms went up just a tiny little bit and then slamed down and that was about it? so can someone please tell me what i did wrong or what to check first? thanks a ton eh!!!!!
  • terrikayeterrikaye Member Posts: 9
    My daughter's 1998 Ford Escort ( 1.9 liter SOHC) died. I had been driving it and it was running just fine, not overheating and not missing. I stopped at a light and it died and would not restart. Towed it home and started looking for the problem. Looked in the oil fill opening and nothing moved when we tried to crank the engine. I took the timing belt cover off...a feat in itself, and the belt is not broke, but stripped at the bottom. I assume something siezed up in order for it to strip the belt. I am wondering the best way to go about figuring out what part caused the problem. Thanks for any help.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If I understand you correctly, the cogged belt was stripped, when the crank was trying to turn the camshaft. So the bind has to be on the camshaft and valves, right?
  • cadownercadowner Member Posts: 4
    ">I have a 2001 Cadillac Seville STS with 91,000 miles. Recently, while 'driving' the car there is a propeller-like sound that comes from the front half of the car. This sound comes up (or is audible) after the car is driving above 15 mph. The sound frequency/pitch increases & decreases with speed variance. Higher the speed, the more intense is the sound pitch. (It is somewhat similar to putting a card against the spokes of a bicycle and riding, except the sound is more like a propeller of a toy remote airplane). However, when the car is standing idle and I rev up the engine even to high rpm, there is NO sound. It comes up only when the car is driving. I ran the in-dash diagnostic and the problem code ABS C1287 came up, which perhaps is not related to this sound.

    Any idea what the problem could be? Will appreciate your feedback.

    :confuse:
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,934
    well, the fact it happens while moving narrows it down to the wheel/rotor/bearing. If that is an ABS code, as the code name would seem to indicate, it seems like you may have a brake issue on that wheel.

    For starters, you could see if the wheel itself is hotter than the others after driving for a while. If so, it probably means a bad caliper or bad bearing.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    c-1287 code returns "steering sensor bias malfunction" the sound you are describing is a wheel bearing noise reason for diagnosis:
    1. noise rises with acceleration and lowers with decelleration
    2 noise does not change pitch with transmission shift therefore eliminating transmission and engine front end components. if the noise changed with transmission shift(rpm drop) then you would suspect trans or alternator or other moving components on front of engine.
  • tiggetigge Member Posts: 2
    Chevy Tahoe, 2001, V8 engine, 35K miles.

    The previous owner used 98 Octan fuel ( Sweden ) but gradually Ive started to use 95 octan ( which is the most common actaully ).
    Now, Im familliar with the cold-start slight knocking sound which gradually disapears as the engine gets warmer.
    With this V8 engine however Im still getting a slight knocking when cold-starting even though its 8 plus celcius.
    Cpuld this be the result of changing from 98 to 95 octan?

    thanks Tigge
  • wealthwarrantywealthwarranty Member Posts: 11
    Wow, a bit different than the typical 87 octane in U.S., but since I have the same vehicle, and it runs fine on 87, I would suggect you simply adjust the timing by retarding it a couple degrees to eliminate pinging or knocking which is harmful to any engine. Your compression ratio may be higher, so check these specs as higher compression will not allow lower octane in some cases, even with retarding timing.
  • tiggetigge Member Posts: 2
    Thanks a lot for your help!

    Well I consulted the manual and it seems the recommended is 87 up to 98.
    the 95 octane is by far the most common in Europe.
    When you say adjust the timing, how do I do that? or is it a job for a technician?
    Im pretty lost when it comes to these massive engines.

    all the best Tigge
  • sfentnersfentner Member Posts: 5
    2006 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE

    Does anybody know how to release or even if it can be, the driver's power seat back if it has become stuck in one position?
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles