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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,747
    Sabotage has nothing to do with it (I hope!). It could actually be a case of a few cars having a defect that affects A/C performance. Refer to earlier post about the defective vacuum switch, for example.
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    What if Bill went to a third dealer - would they have access to his prior service visits to other dealerships, or history of calls to MazdaUSA - or could he present his problems to a fresh set of service techs - without reference to any prior visits/calls?

    All dealers will run the VIN number to see if the car has any open campaigns and the warranty history. It will list the dates and miles of any previous warranty claims and what was replaced. If they got a loaner etc... It won't have any dealer notes like "the guy is a nut" or anything like that, just the stuff the dealer did.
  • chacobleuchacobleu Posts: 228
    "I think we've established, and had confirmed by the auto industry, that the highest fan speed setting is not the best setting for cold a/c."

    The digital thermometer confirms this in our Contour, MPV, & Camry (1998, 2001, & 1997). Hey Meade, nothing like real world results (vs. just reading about it).

    But here is the kicker: it is different with fresh vs. recirc. On fresh, the air temp. coming out of the vents will rise as you increase fan speed and stay there (unless the outside temp drops off dramatically). On recirc., the air temp. coming out of the vents will initially rise, then eventually (several minutes later) fall as the temp. inside cools off. Of course, the air temp. coming out of the vents on highest fan speed will never be colder than the air temp. at the lowest fan speed. (Most likely, the opposite happens with colder winter type temps.)

    The question then becomes, why use the highest fan speed? Probably to get the volume of the interior temp. equalized (or as close to it as possible). Sure helps convince the psych. to the contrary.
  • mazda33mazda33 Posts: 3
    If you put the a/c in recirculate, this eliminates the "warmer outside air" thing right out of your argument, though. --- This was without the A/C on. If it is 60 out you should feel some of it through the vents. Also, I'm not really arguing, just sharing my thoughts.

    I think we've established, and had confirmed by the auto industry, that the highest fan speed setting is not the best setting for cold a/c. I'll go find the link again if I have to, but I'd much rather you go back and find where this has been discussed in the past week or two here. Basically, in the highest fan setting, you're not giving the air long enough to cool down as it passes over the coils. I find that setting 3, sometimes 2, works best in my car. ---I agree the air will be colder near the vent on a lower fan speed, but I do not sit next to the vent. I never had the fan over 2 on my 95 Nissan 200SX. There is not too much in a number on your fan switch. The real answer would be how many cubic feet of air get moved over a given time period. We will not get that answer, so there is no need to go any further....even though I'm sure you will.

    I'm still wondering, and I will keep wondering until somebody proves me wrong, how many of these "defective a/c" complaints come from people who don't know how to use their air conditioning.....I can question the a/c aptitude of a group of random owners. ----Do you spend a lot of time wondering about that?

    I am glad you enjoy your AC. I think my next step will be to have my AC checked by my service dept?
  • mazdamad2mazdamad2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 mazda 3 with rust coming from under the finish on the roof ,aprox.6" behind moonroof. I rounded up 4 estimates all agree in writing it is a paint flaw and Mazda will not fix this problem. Has anyone had similar problem.
  • chacobleuchacobleu Posts: 228
    Mazda 3 Std. Warranty: Corrosion/Rust Thru: 5 years or Unlimited miles

    So, what gives? Why not? Etc.? Etc.? Etc.?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    = rust eating completely through the sheet metal; i.e., a hole in the car.

    Before the "Mazda Hates Its Customers" crew starts up again ... this is not Mazda out to get you. This is the industry standard warranty verbiage.

    Here's an explanation from good ol' Edmunds, found right here where they 'splain car warranties to the masses:

    Rust or Corrosion: This warranty protects you from rust-through problems with the sheetmetal. Surface rust doesn't count. The rust must make a hole to be covered. Keep your car washed and waxed, and rust shouldn't be a problem.

    Despite the warranty, however, I'd still take the car in and complain. That is, if you can prove that the rust was caused by a "paint flaw" and not a scrape or something else like a hard scratch from a (god forbid) nylon-brush automatic car wash -- which is going to be difficult. Painting is done in several layers nowadays, with an undercoat, the paint and a clearcoat. To have all three layers "flawed" (what does that mean anyway?), causing the sheetmetal to rust in only a year, is hard to accept -- and any kind of "paint flaw" that severe should've been apparent from day one.

    ...I rounded up 4 estimates all agree in writing it is a paint flaw and Mazda will not fix this problem.

    I'm having trouble with the way this sentence is worded. Does this mean Mazda has looked at the car and refuses to fix it, or does it mean the four guys who gave you estimates told you Mazda won't fix it?

    I am kind of wondering if there's more to this story than you're telling us. I mean, if I had a one-year-old car with rust showing on part of it, I would go right to the dealership. You went and got four estimates first, which seems like a hell of a lot of legwork to do before getting the official "no" from your dealership. Why?

    And BTW, how much are the estimates?

    Meade
  • richmlrichml Posts: 156
    Is there a cold spell in Texas?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Maybe he finally traded his Mazda666 for a Civic.

    One can only hope :blush: !

    Meade
  • nifty6nifty6 Posts: 21
    I should correct my first post (above)
    "the air coming through the vents feels warmer then the outside air"
    I have another vehicle that when I put the vent only (no air) on the air feels a bit warmer than the outside air but not by much, in fact it feels cool where as the Mazda feels warm. When I have a chance I will get a thermeter and check what the temperature is coming out of the vents while driving on both vehicles. Will also check the outside air temp..will post results later this week..maybe others with the same problem can do the same and report
  • nifty6nifty6 Posts: 21
    For those who like to do your own oil changes you might find the cartridge filter on the 2.3 hell to change. :mad: This might help. The link below is about changing the cartridge filter to a spin on. The article is about a conversion on a Mazda 6i but the engine is the same as the one in the Mz3,so the info would also apply to your Mz3. The article contains step by step pictures so may take a while to download. Just curious if anybody here has done the conversion?

    http://tinyurl.com/9wba6
  • Hey guys to those of you enjoying your mazda 3's good luck i wish you the best! I believe i was the first person to report to mazda about the stalling condition. I bought my 04 mazda 3 brand last year and since then the first 7 months i had the car it was back to the dealership once a month for up entire week if not longer. My car has stalled 8 times since May of 2004. I've had two purge valves replaced still no answer. Over this period of time did i also mention i needed a new transmission around 3,000 miles cause my pump was not working correctly so the transmission fluid would sit in the pan and just burn. I am incredibly frustrated as of right now my car has been at the dealer since thursday. And my computer is also known for giving ghost codes but they say it is ok but if you ask me it sounds like my computer is messed up! So what do i do when my check engine light is on for real but i think its bunch of [non-permissible content removed]. As for you people who the dealer says your air intake is making it stall well their just jackasses. This will be the 2nd time lead technicians were sent to go over my car. I cannot be anymore aggravated if i would have known all of this i could have settled for any piece of junk at a used car lot. I am totally frustrated cause this time when it stalled i was just about destroyed by a brand new F150 super duty i couldn't; even open my door to get out if you want any indication how close he was. Well i will keep you updated and let you guys know if they fix the stalling problem, but other than that why couldn't the f-150 just blast the hell out of me lol sounds crazy but damn i might have bought mazda!
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I bought my 04 mazda 3 brand last year and since then the first 7 months i had the car it was back to the dealership once a month for up entire week if not longer. My car has stalled 8 times since May of 2004. I've had two purge valves replaced still no answer. Over this period of time did i also mention i needed a new transmission around 3,000 miles cause my pump was not working correctly so the transmission fluid would sit in the pan and just burn.

    Sounds rough. A few questions for you:
    What is the build date on your car?
    What type of transmission on your Mazda3 i?
    Was all the work covered by Mazda under warranty?
    Did you buy any additional / extended warranty?
    When the transmission failed did you ask Mazda to replace the car?
  • eoghan1eoghan1 Posts: 57
    I am thinking of removing the rear seats from my 3S hatch in order to transport some mountain bikes and gear rather that carrying them on the outside. Hopefully one of you has removed the rear seats and can save me some exploration. Thanks
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    It is still hot in Texas!

    Took a little trip over to San Antonio (Sea World / River Walk) - got back home late last night - left the Mazda3 parked in the garage - even if it had a good AC system we would have still taken the SUV (which BTW has an ICE COLD AC).

    Taking a trip to Orlando at the end of the month (June 26th - July 2) so don't get too worried if I go a few days without posting!

    Going to a 2nd or 3rd dealer is a great idea - if the problem is with the DEALER - if the problem is with the MANUFACTURER then going to a different dealer will not be of much help. That is my situation.

    Maybe I have been a "little" harsh (ok rude inconsiderate sarcastic) in some of my comments - but I don't want to hurt any ones feelings - and if I have I am sorry. I guess all of the hours I spent in sensitivity training are finally paying off!
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    ...Taking a trip to Orlando at the end of the month (June 26th - July 2) so don't get too worried if I go a few days without posting!...

    You know it's hard to enjoy Orlando with such a short trip....They have some great rates if you stay a month or so. ;)
  • daryldaryl Posts: 41
    One of the criteria in buying my 3 was that it hold a road bike with only the front wheel removed. I cram a lot of stuff around it in the back or the passenger seat. For the effort, I don't see the benefit of removing the back seat. The space gain can't be that much, you don't know what Mazda has put there, you may wish you had left it in, and if you need the space that badly maybe the 3 isn't the right vehicle for you.
    Daryl
  • npaladin2000npaladin2000 Posts: 593
    I'm not sure the rear seat CAN be removed. Except maybe the seatbacks, but they fold down anyway, so why bother? Those rear seats look REALLY well attached...it doesn't even appear that the seat bottoms fall forward.
  • Just took my 3 hatchback up to the Berkshires in Mass. (from NYC) for the weekend this past weekend to see how it would handle hill climbing (as it got hot, I was also curious as to how well the A/C would work given some of the complaints I've seen here).
    The car handled the drive beautifully; I had no problem holding speed on any hill (and kicking down to 3rd if additional speed for passing required). I cruised most of the trip at an easy 75 mph, and averaged about 28mpg with the air conditioning running (BTW, my wife was constantly turning the a/c down). It's not the strongest a/c in any car I've ever had, but it's certainly more than acceptable.
    The car really showed its fun spirit when I was driving home on a typical, winding two-lane 'highway' running through the hills of Mass. and Connecticut. It sat flat on the road no matter the twist or turn, and I was constantly having to check the speedometer to keep near the speed limit (so that I didn't jump over it by 15 mpt or so).
    I previously owned a Mercury Sable. Driving the 3 has been so much more fun, I'm glad I purchased it.
  • lifestarlifestar Posts: 44
    Just curious, my Mz3 Hatch is close to hitting 1000 miles, but I'm curious about oil changes on it. Read some postings that it's not possible to get the oil changed at quickie places like JiffyLube? Is that true? Would it be better to have the oil changes done at the dealer? I'm wondering b/c my previous car, a 1996 Protege, I had the oil changes done at JiffyLube b/c I have a 15% discount from the company I work at for JiffyLube oil changes.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    We have been to Sea World many times - it is always a good time - we stayed at a Hotel that was right on the River walk - which cost more but seemed worth it.

    audia8q - we could have rented a condo (in Kissimmee) for 4 weeks for what the hotel is costing us for 6 nights - but it is hard to tell what a place is like - just by looking at pictures on the net. I wanted to just do Sea World in Orlando - but some of the other couples could not make that trip.

    Oil changes - I would stick to the dealer - I had a real bad experience at a quick oil change place - they put on the wrong oil filter (which came off at highway speed) - my wife got a few miles down the road and the oil change light came on - she thought - can't need any oil I just had it changed! Even though the oil change place paid for a complete rebuild the car was never the same.

    I would pay the extra $10 and let the dealer do it.
  • npaladin2000npaladin2000 Posts: 593
    Well, no one around here seems to carry the oil filters for the 3, except for the dealer. However, that's an hour hau each way for just an oil change, so I just get it done at the local Mobil station (they do my alignments and tire swaps too) and they get the filter from the dealer ahead of time.

    I probably only save a couple of bucks that way, since they have to charge extra for the filter because they get it from the dealer (more expensive than a parts place), but it saves me 2 hours of driving, which makes it well worth it.
  • lifestarlifestar Posts: 44
    Well the dealership I got the car from is about a 30 min drive from my home, which isn't too bad. There's one that's slightly closer, just more city street driving. I guess I'm just wondering about the oil changes b/c during the winters here in MA, I rather not need to have to drive so far just to get my oil changed when I could just go to the local jiffylube which is 10 min away.

    How much does it usually cost at the dealer? Do they do anything else besides changing the oil and the filter?
  • I just bought a 2004 automatic Mazda 3. So far, great fun car to drive, but I have a grinding sound when I reverse. This morning, it also made this sound while I was driving forward. I have read previous posts that discuss rear brake dust, grooves and the rain etc.

    I'm a young woman who doesn't know a lot about cars and I'd like to walk into the garage and be able to tell them what is wrong and where they should look (so I don't get brushed off or taken advantage of). Can someone please tell me what to say. Also, will this repair be covered by my warranty?

    Thanks! Your posts have been really helpful!
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Grinding noise is always bad. But if the noise is slight - like the sound made if you rub a piece of chalk on the sidewalk - SHSHSHSHSH (best I can do!) then it would be a normal noise that will happen the first few times you stop each morning.

    When you car sits over night the brake discs get a small amount of rust on then - if it is only one night the amount will be so small you will not even be able to see it - but it is there. The rubbing sound you hear in this rust being wiped off. Normally after a few stops this noise will go away.

    If the noise is constant - then this is not normal and I would get the car in to be checked out.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,674
    Is it a grinding noise when you take your foot off the brake? Or does the sound happen immediately once you place the shifter into reverse (with your foot still on the brake)?

    If the problem occurs when you put it in reverse, then try putting it back into park then into reverse again to see if the problem reoccurs.

    Also…sounds obvious, but make sure your parking brake is off.

    If you just purchased the vehicle it should be covered, even if it is a problem with the brakes.
  • lifestarlifestar Posts: 44
    Just curious, but I did a little more research and it seems that Mazda moved over to a spin-on type of oil filter for the later models of Mazda 3s. Apparently all the models made before 2/2004 have that oil cartiage system, which I heard was a pain to change if you DIY, and it was hard to get the filter b/c only Mazda produces it so far. The models after 2/2004 reportedly have a spin-on type oil filter. Can anyone verify that? If it's spin-on, does that mean anyone, including a oil change shop, can do the oil change?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    And I don't think there's been a change, because I walked up to the parts counter at my dealership yesterday and asked for an "oil filter for a Mazda3s." The guy handed me the cartridge filter. He never said anything about any other type of filter for a Mazda3s.

    Meade
  • The grinding noise is when I apply pressure to the brake in drive, and when I reverse. (and no the parking break isn't on).

    I'd say it is the same sound as chalk on sidewalk SHSHSHSHSH, but much louder. (I would think that ppl outside the car could hear it as well.)

    any other thoughts of what this might be? thanks.
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