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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • mike835mike835 Member Posts: 17
    I'm driving an '05 M3 Spt/Gt and your description of your transmission problem is exactly like mine in several ways.
    1. The car now has about 4800kms on it and the problem started around 4000 kms.

    2. The shift from 1st to 2nd can provide quite a kick at about 18 to 20 km/hr.

    3. After about 5 shifting sequences the shift has smoothed out in that after each sequence the kick is diminished.

    4. The problem is a "sometimes" event and the times that it happens is only after the car has been sitting for quite a few hours.

    5. Speaking with the dealer I was left with an unsatisfactory explanation that the problem is a heat sensor in the transmission which in colder weather is slow to react resulting in the jerk ... which I don't buy for a second.

    6. Like you I can see no good of this problem and expect a call to road side assistance in the future.

    The cure is in the works however according to some Mazda forums. There is supposed to be a bulletin out soon explaining an PCM update which is a "fix". The update procedure is supposed to take 2 hours, I've read.

    Unlike so many others that besides the transmission problem there is a complaint with the A/C in the car. I'm sorry to mention it but that I'm one of the few who find the system adequate. Reading A/C problems before picking up the car I questioned the dealer about it. The standard dealer answer - "hadn't heard of that problem..."

    Hope the update, TSB, recall or whatever on the tranny comes through soon !!!

    Mike
  • mike835mike835 Member Posts: 17
    That's a really good point about the after purchase survey.

    I should hope that within a couple of weeks we are all still thrilled with the new car and this is no doubt why the survey follows so soon. Like you said, the survey should follow in no sooner than 6 months !

    Now we know what most buttons, switches do and found all the "neat " things. Some of us have damaged a rocker panel and find how terribly expensive plastic can be ($531 CDN $). We know that transmission has problems, the brakes can be squeaky, and in many cases the A/C is inadequate.

    We could do a job on a survey now - eh? !!

    Mike
  • mike835mike835 Member Posts: 17
    Sorry to interrupt the flow but I've been away ... damaging the left rocker panel (on an ' 05 M3 Spt GT etc.

    Could someone direct me to a thread or source for less expensive rocker panel (aka: side step moulding). The dealer list puts the plastic part as a moulding and lists it for $531.21 + $38 for the required 15 mounting clips. (Canadian $$$). I had a run in with a high (hidden - of course) curb at a Tim Horton's coffee shop drive thru. A body shop repair will run $330 but won't be the same ... The sign they had said Keep Right -- should have said Keep Far Right !

    Thanks,

    Mike
  • red85741red85741 Member Posts: 1
    My new 2006 Mazda 3 has a similar problem. The light and the chime are going off when the key is not in the ignition. This prevents me from using the remote to lock/unlock the doors. The warning chime/light will be off and I use the remote to arm the car, then when I come back out (often nearly 10 hours later) the remote will not unlock the car. When I open the door with the key, the chime and light will be flashing like the key is in the ignition. The dealer has already replaced the ignition once because they thought something was sticking, but it started happening again. Does anyone have any ideas? My service rep at the dealer is stumped.
  • cyberboicyberboi Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem... when changing from 1st to 2nd (not being warmed.. ).. the whole car jerked.. after few shifting.. it's better... once it's warmed, it's ok
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Sorry to see so many people with the hard shifting tranny defect - a few months back some people thought I was just making this stuff up - one guy even said that until CONSUMER REPORTS listed it as a problem and Mazda came out with a TSB it was not really a problem.

    Mine has had the problem off and on for about 1 1/2 years - Mazda (dealer and the customer service 800 number) tell me that they have never heard about any problems - of course they said the same thing about the GRINDING brakes - thumping front suspension and worthless AC - until Mazda came out with a TSB -

    I guess Mazda has more problems than they do solutions.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    If you wants an incredibly cold a/c in Mazda go buy the 6, believe me that one will freeze you even if you set the temp at 75 and is 100 outside

    Funny you say that ... the a/c units in the 6 and the 3 are built by the same company.

    Meade
  • mike835mike835 Member Posts: 17
    I just booked an oil change and 5000 km check with a dealer on a 2005 M3 SptGt. Questioned him about the PCM update for the transmission. The reply was nothing for the M3 but there is a bulletin out for the fix for the M6 and they will scan mine when I have it in. So if the fix for the 6 is out can that for the 3 be far behind? Has the 6's transmission been acting up as well? Also I have just been speaking with 2 other 2005 M3 owners who's tansmissions have been acting up - in the same way. With all the problems the dealers can't really stick to the line .." haven't heard of that problem ..."
  • mike835mike835 Member Posts: 17
    I wonder if anyone has let the car warm up before heading to wherever they are going?

    Just a thought since the problem with the transmissions vanish in about 5 minutes of starting out from a cold start. Perhaps we all zoom zoom out the driveway or whatever before the car is ready to. I must try this for a while and see if there is a difference because I'm the start and go type - especially at the gas prices now.

    (If the dealers say this is the problem, remember - you know where you saw it first.)

    Mike
  • pmc255pmc255 Member Posts: 15
    As I understand it, the Mazda3 has hydraulic steering. I just got a brand new '06 3i Touring, and I can hear this squeaking noise when turning the steering wheel, as if a machine is churning. It's a very soft sound, and coincides directly with the turning of the steering wheel. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    are built by the same company -

    Not sure what this has to do with anything -

    It just tells me that Mazda could have just put the AC from the Mazda6 into the Mazda3 and had a system that really cools things off - but choose to replace the system - so they could what? Save $10 per car?

    Mazda MUST take responsibility for the cars they manufacture - it does not matter if they got the parts from some other company - doesn't every car company buy parts - even whole assemblies from outside suppliers?

    Why is who manufactured the system so important? You have posted it several times - it must mean something (to you) -
  • sadi14sadi14 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I am new here without any experience in cars... I bought a Mazda because I wanted a safe, dependable car (which it had excellent reviews in all car mags!) since I am a young woman driving out of town alot. Well, less than a month after buying, engine light came on and the mechanic fixed my gas cap. Now, less than 12000 miles, it idles rougher than usual, and in the lower gears at higher rpms, it lunges or lugs down. Almost like its trying to get gas, as if there were a clog or something. It used to idle with the rpms raging up and down between 500 to 1500, even 2500. That hasn't happened in a little while though. But especially in the higher rpms, while creeping along in traffic(in gears 1-3), it lunges forward. Not to mention the times it won't start. It starts after the second time, but I have to reve up the gas like it was a 75 bronco in 30 degree weather! has anyone had similar problems? Mechanics put it on the computer and say nothing is wrong. Any ideas? Thanks
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    Keep taking it back to the dealer until it gets fixed. If it doesn' get fixed, check into your state's lemon law here:
    http://www.lemonlawamerica.com/state_laws/

    Keep all your service records, and don't drag you feet in this, as lemon laws have time limits. Since what you described sounds like it is a safety-related problem, NHTSA might be interested. You can file a complaint here:
    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
    or by phone. Like it states on the NHTSA web site:
    "If a safety-related defect exists in a motor vehicle or item of motor vehicle equipment, the manufacturer must fix it at no cost to the owner. Your complaint is the first step in the process."
  • dridedride Member Posts: 139
    Sounds like the fuel pump, I had similar problems. Mazda has a TSB for this one. Make sure they change your plugs too. Whoever looked at your car is an idiot, take it to another dealer. CEL light on, rough idles, and rough starts are textbook signs of a malfunctioning fuel pump.
  • chacobleuchacobleu Member Posts: 228
    The mfg. of the a/c unit is important to know. Let's say they make one unit that works well in particular car and another, very similar unit down sized or up sized for another vehicle that is either smaller or larger in volume, respectfully, that does not work well with that vehicle, then they are counted on to assist Mazda in determining the root cause of the problem.

    The Mazda 3 is smaller in volume (cabin, esp.) than the Mazda 6 by about 10% (hey these are guesses; I know I could probably figure out the correct %, but this is just a hypothetical). Now, let's take the evap (your favorite in fault) of either vehicle: Mazda 3 evap is made smaller than the Mazda 6 (e.g. 10%; I don't know this to be true, but could be). For hahas, let's say the Mazda 6 has a lighter color interior vs. the Mazda 3's dark interior (hey, doesn't one of the el cheapo Mazda 3i come with lighter beige interior? dash?). Logically, I already see a problem.

    Vehicle equipment is important for all of us. I rather have a oversized a/c unit or any other unit, if you will, rather than an undersized unit. Someone had mentioned that the evap may have grown in size for '06 models; probably just speculation. I believe you had stated that there didn't seem to be enough room to increase the size of the evap in the 3. Kind of sounded hopeless for the Mazda 3. But I think that was more of an attitude opinion than a realistic one.

    There is so much room between the firewall and the engine - enough to fit a V-6 or even a small V-8 (think Yamaha V-8 from the Taurus SHO now to be found the the Volvo XC-90). The firewall could easily be carved into or out of to make room for larger, more heavy duty equipment. At the same time, my belief is that items or units could probably be shuffled around a bit resulting in the increase of available space for more or larger equipment, without fussing with the firewall.
  • chacobleuchacobleu Member Posts: 228
    Now, calm down every one.

    She had the car less than a month when the CEL light came on. It probably flashed a “gas cap” code, which was retrieved by the mechanic. I don’t think the mechanic had a psychic on staff that drummed up the error in a card. The mechanic probably couldn’t get the cap to close right, so it was replaced. Try driving with your gas cap off or loosely attached and see if your car doesn’t flashe a code.

    NOW, LESS THAN 12,000 MILES she has an idle issue, which could very well be the fuel pump and/or spark plugs.

    Who knows, MAYBE A YEAR FROM NOW (if she still has the vehicle), some gas attendant may not tighten up the gas cap correctly after fueling and the CEL may light up AGAIN (almost happened to me yesterday, but he gave it another shot after some personal hesitation).

    So far, her mechanic has lived up to the task. But they still have a chance to prove he or she is an idiot.
  • jmillsjmills Member Posts: 77
    With 35,000 totally trouble free miles, in the past 16 months on our 2004 Mazda 3, in South Florida and Georgia, I find it very difficult to believe that there is any design problem with the AC.

    Our Automatic 5 door with the black cloth interior is cooled perfectly in both City and Interstate driving

    The temperatures and Humidity in our area are certainly higher than those in Canada and the Northeast, which would certainly qualify this area as a worst case scenario.

    The service we have received, in two states from 3 dealers, has been outstanding.

    I am extremely critical of Manufacturer and Dealer service performance-take a look at my 350 Z posts on the forums- but Mazda is definitely the best Dealer/ Manufacturer network I have dealt with, and immediately issues voluntary recalls and performs updates on any problems owners encounter.
  • carson_guyallcarson_guyall Member Posts: 1
    The Mazda3 has electro-hydraulic power steering. What you're hearing is the electric motor controling the steering hydraulics. I hear it on my hatch and every other 3 I've been around.
  • dridedride Member Posts: 139
    I just know I had the exact same problems at 2,000 miles, and by driving with a defective fuel pump, I put myself at risk for mechanical failure. Also, all the rough starts completely fouled my plugs. These are not symptoms of not screwing the gas cap on tight enough. I hope she takes to a Mazda dealer where this problem will be covered under warranty. I think everyone should also remember to screw on the gas cap until it clicks.
  • chacobleuchacobleu Member Posts: 228
    As much as 2 cars are similar, they are always different. Your vehicle had a hicup at 2000 miles; hers at 12000 miles. She had a CEL at less than a month of driving which registered a gas cap issue. The car didn't hicup; it just flashed the dummy light. You can't blame the mechanic for fixing what the computer is saying is the issue. Besides, she mentions no other CEL issue after the fix. Nor does she mention the car acting all fussy since the gas cap issue. Fast forward 12000 miles and she has another issue.

    The mechanic can't fix what isn't broken. Actually, the mechanic could, but it would be 'pro bono' since I don't see the owner paying for the work. BTW - did a CEL flash for the fuel pump or was the car seriously acting up (and stalling)?
  • chacobleuchacobleu Member Posts: 228
    The point isn't WHO mfg the evap, but that its the SAME mfg. How could the same mfg. makes an a/c unit that will "freeze you out" in one vehicle but not in another? That is my point. So, it really does matter. Now, you want to compare a '06 vs '04 model evap.? Compare both of those to an '04 Mazda 6 evap., supposedly (sorry Meade) from the same mfg.

    BTW - don't forget it was your opinion that a larger evap would not fit in the 3. However you concluded that is beyond me, but it leeds me to believe you had no hope that the a/c in a Mazda 3 could ever be anything but junk. I presume most if not all people on these forums know more about autos than I do; that is, until they prove me wrong.

    On the other hand, I would pay 10 times that much to have the a/c removed from the vehicle to reduce weight, gain power, and improve mpg (though, the interior would need to lighten up quite a bit). Ditto on the power steering - electrical, hydraulic, or any other kind (I'll take all the workout I can get these days). Radio - can do without that to.

    Now, where is my six speed MT, MAZDA???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Let's not get into the AC brawl again, okay? We've been through all this and it's time to move on or allow new posters to talk about their problems and concerns.

    Thank you!

    Shifty the Host
  • chacobleuchacobleu Member Posts: 228
    The Miata or MX-5 is a great example. For '06, the overall a/c unit was reduced in size by about 7% vs. previous models. Makes sense since it is a convertible.

    Perhaps there was a good reason to modifiy the a/c unit going from one vehicle into another. But we still don't know if there was a mod., do we?
  • daryldaryl Member Posts: 41
    I'm considering upgrading the speakers in my "04. Has anyone done this yet? If so, I'm curious what you replaced them with. I'm pretty sure they're all 6 1/2s.
    Thanks, Daryl
  • lifestarlifestar Member Posts: 44
    Hey guys, have a question on what do you think is the best option for my Mazda 3 hatchback this coming winter.

    1. Going to Tirerack.com and buying a new set of wheels and winter tires and performing the self-installation myself. What equipment would I need and what would you guys suggest or advise that you would give.

    2. Going to maybe my local sullivan tire or goodyear shop and have them give me a set of wheels and winter tires and let them do the installation.

    3. Going to the same, but just simply purchase the tires and have them switch out the OEM tires with the new winter tires and store the OEMs at my home till the Spring.

    I know the time to buy winter tires is now and I better get it done soon before the major winter nor'easter hits Boston, but I can't seem to find much info. about switching tires besides changing flats and all. Any help would be appreciated. :)
  • mrblonde49mrblonde49 Member Posts: 626
    They are 6x8 (5x7 fit as well). You can use 6 1/2 bnut need an adapter to fit into the hole. I am in the process of replacing w/ Infinity (front) and Kenwood (back). To get the most out of the new speakers, you'll need to add an amp as well
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Is anyone having problems when you open a topic page - sometimes the videos on inside line ad on the right side of the page gets so big it overlaps the posts making them impossible to read -

    Is this an Edmunds problem or does my PC have a format problem -
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    Looks fine to me using IE 6.0 or Firefox 1.07
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I've been having that problem (Win98 SE, IE 6.0) but only on certain discussions--not this one, but e.g. Nissan Versa.
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Member Posts: 277
    Yes, it's there using my link:.
    http://www.jdpower.com/cc/auto/ratings/vehicles/FindJdAwards.jsp

    Overall Quality (2005 Mazda3) is 2/5 stars

    Initial Quality Ratings 2005 3


    Mechanical Quality 2/5

    Feature & Accessory Quality 5/5

    Body & Interior Quality 3/5

    Overall Quality 2/5
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Member Posts: 277
    I suspect that *maybe* in different climates Mazda has "tweaked" their A/C to perform better than the rest in the country. I know this to be true in Taiwan, but they also make their Mazda's there. However, the dealer is using the Mazda3 Sport's good A/C as a tool in selling saying this one is better than the regular Mazda3 (which is a 1.6litre).

    Also, others have reported better results with their A/C if they have a cabin filter installed. I am trying to get one installed this weekend when I take my M3 in for servicing since mine doesnt come with a cabin filter.

    And personally, I feel dealers and manufactures should be fined for lying to their customers. Denying that there is no problem and shortly thereafter, admitting to it by issuing service bulletins.
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Member Posts: 277
    Vehicle equipment is important for all of us. I rather have a oversized a/c unit or any other unit, if you will, rather than an undersized unit. Someone had mentioned that the evap may have grown in size for '06 models; probably just speculation. I believe you had stated that there didn't seem to be enough room to increase the size of the evap in the 3. Kind of sounded hopeless for the Mazda 3. But I think that was more of an attitude opinion than a realistic one.

    I dont think the increased evap size in the 06 is speculation. A dealer did mention it. But, only time will tell; however, as mentioned in a previous post of mine. In Taiwan (I have three different M3s as references) their AC is fine. In fact, too cold. Without telling the family members what to look for, I have no way of knowing the size of their evap. I think a larger evap in the 04 and 05 M3's is definitely do-able. And if Mazda pisses off the consumers in Taiwan, Mazda will surely suffer a huge loss as in Taiwan they have access to vehicles that are not available in North America. There is definitely more options for consumers over there. I think that North America isn't a large enough of a pie for Mazda to concern itself with, hence the problems that we have.

    Someone mentioned Mazda and about the logic of saving $10 in parts or something. I guess from a manufacturing stand-point, this $10 adds up. Take my VW TDI. VW had a super cheap LCD odometer. I couldn't believe how cheap it was. Manufacturers will do almost anything to save a buck or too.

    I think my next car will be a Honda Civic or Acura. Honda cares about their customers.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Thanks for information.

    On the topic of Overall ratings there are actually two: Overall Quality and Overall Appeal.

    As you noted the overall quality is 2 out of 5 stars (i.e. "the rest"). What is useful to remember is the definition of Overall Quality which according to JD Power is
    Taken from the Initial Quality Study (IQS), which looks at owner-reported problems in the first 90 days of ownership, this score is based on the Mechanical, Feature & Accessory, and Body and Interior problems reported by vehicle owners.

    On the other hand, the Mazda3 rates 4 out of 5 (i.e. "better than most") for Overall Appeal. JD Power defines this as "Taken from the most recent Automotive Performance, Execution and Layout Study (APEAL) study, which looks at the features that consumers like and dislike about their vehicles, this score is based on how consumers rated the overall appeal of their vehicle. The APEAL study is published in August of each year.
  • daryldaryl Member Posts: 41
    It's been years since I bought aftermarket stereo products. I'm curious where the amp fits and what kind you are installing.
    Thanks, Daryl
  • wjdav43wjdav43 Member Posts: 1
    If I was you I would be looking up services such as these: http://www.yourlemonlawrights.com/?engine=adwords!1204&keyword=lemon+law&match_type=

    http://www.lemonlaw.com/
  • eoghan1eoghan1 Member Posts: 58
    South of you, in Connecticut, Town Fair Tire seems pretty good with winter tire packages. Tire rack also seems good and I believe they ship wheel and tire packages direct so all you have to do is pop them on. Being cheap I bought 4 used Cooper snow tires for 200 bucks and mounted them on some used steel 16" rims from a Mitsubishi Galant which I bought for $70. The bolt pattern and offset matched nicely. I haven't run the Coopers in snow yet but they are rated pretty well. The OEM Goodyears on my 2004 5spd hatch were not good in snow despite their having M&S on the sidewall. I am approaching 11000 miles, have had no real problems and find this to be one of the most enjoyable cars I've owned in the last 50+ years
  • gib11gib11 Member Posts: 47
    It's strange that the 2004MZ3 rated better at 3/5
  • prdmprdm Member Posts: 145
    I have done this on the family's three cars. This prevents having to tear on/off tires every spring/fall and allows you to rotate position. For tools you could use what's in the trunk but you will be much happier with a real floor jack and lug nut wrench
  • lifestarlifestar Member Posts: 44
    Any tire brand that you guys would highly recommend? Also, I heard that I would need a torque wrench to properly put the tires on. Is that really true b/c I have the other materials after having to change tires on my old car in the middle of snowstorms?
  • prdmprdm Member Posts: 145
    Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50 are excellent. There are others but these are the ones I have experience with. Torque wrench can be helpful, but that said, I've been doing this for 25 years and have yet to use one. Most cars require between 75 to 100 ft. lbs. on the lug nuts. With a cross shaped lug nut wrench which are about 24 in across it is not hard to ballpark that figure. What is more important than torqueing it dead on is setting all lug nuts close to same tightness on each wheel to prevent rotor warping.
  • chacobleuchacobleu Member Posts: 228
    Check engine light came on last week Friday 10/28. Thought it could be a sensor with the gas cap so I set up the appt. yesterday. And I just had the car in for an oil change and tire rotation on the 10/25

    They found 2 issues:
    1. Purge S Valve
    2. Leak Detection System

    There’s a TSB on the Purge S Valve. Knew this going in, but I was convinced it was the gas cap. This one particular individual (gas attendant) seemed to not have tightened my gas cap correctly a couple of days before (10/26) the engine light flashed. He hesitated after installing the gas cap, but he did a double take on it and gave it another effort. I still wasn’t convinced, but I decided to look at it when I got to work. Thirty miles later and I forgot; I have a bad habit of forgetting things which is probably why I live on Memory Lane (really, I do). This individual is approx. 45 years old, but is fairly new at this station that I’ve been going to in the last 6 years (1 mile from home and good price). He’s a stickler for OBEYING NEW JERSEY LAW. I think New Jersey and Oregon are the only states remaining where only the employees are permitted to pump gas and NO ONE ELSE. I wish it had only been the “Leak Detection System” so I could make a stink about it to him and his boss. I have no problem pumping my own gas in the state of New Jersey. But this guy reads me the riot act every time he’s on the job.

    Suggestions.

    BTW – The Purge S Valve has something to do with the engine running too lean or too rich. There are 2 codes, but which code is for lean and which for rich? Or should I just ask the service people? And would this be affected by the slow evaporation of gasoline (fumes) not reaching the engine?
  • sadi14sadi14 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks everyone for the advice! So, I got my car back yesterday and they replaced a part in the emissions control system...the purge control valve. And it seems to be driving like its new again. Here's hoping all stays well! Thanks again!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The Mazda3 make the Edmunds Editors' Most Wanted list.

    You can check it out in the new BLOG section and add your comments too if you wish:

    http://blogs.edmunds.com/.ee8bcc5

    The Most Wanted List is in the Blog called "Straightline". Have a look!

    Shifty the Host
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Member Posts: 277
    Yes, the overall appeal is higher. Even though I feel the overall reliability is VERY POOR and the JD Powers survey confirms this. I rate the appeal as very high, that's why I traded-in my 2002 Jetta TDi for the Mazda3. However....the quality is just not there. Unfortunately, I didnt know the quality was this bad with the Mazda. The Jetta is about the same, which doesn't say much. If I did know about the quality, I wouldve held off on my trade-in and waited for the 2006 Civic and quality is just as important as appeal. I couldnt see myself driving a Corolla as it looks today or an 05 Civic, but I came darn close to buying a Civic.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    What types of quality problems have you experienced?

    What types of reliability problems? Similar to those on the “Probs” thread; AC, rear brakes (on 04) or different?

    I was very surprised by the quality and reliability of my 3…though I only have 3K miles on it now.

    I’m also VERY impressed with the build quality of my 3. When I purchased an 03 Accord I had about 12 items to address on my first visit, on my 3 I have absolutely none. No squeaks, rattles, misalignments, electrical glitches, nothing. When I got rid of my 03 Accord I still had water stains in my headliner that never got fixed from 3K – 41K it was put off, or forgotten, or rescheduled.

    Outside of a BMW 3 series, I haven’t driven a car that felt so solid; like it was constructed out of one large piece.

    It’s surprising to hear others have different experiences, perhaps I just got lucky.
  • mvs1mvs1 Member Posts: 462
    I'm also interested in more information. I'm looking at both the 06' Civic and Mazda3 5 door as a commuter vehicle. I drove both, along with owning an 00' Jetta. The Jetta IMO is built better than both. I remember when I bought that car, there were horror stories, yet I got the 1.8T engine and made one trip for a recall on window regulators that never gave me issue, great car overall.

    I actually like the Mazda more than the Civic yet personal opinion leads me toward the Civic since I've owned Hondas in the past....decisions...decisions
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Member Posts: 277
    What quality issues have I had? Well, fortunately, for the most part, they have been nuisances.

    1. The hard shifting (automatic) when cold from 1st to 2nd. Took Mazda almost a year to come up with a software fix for that. This was NOT a nuisance but a definite concern. Dunno what damage my tranny has as a result
    2. Rear brakes (noisey and clunking). TSB on that.
    3. Console Trim panel (loose)
    4. Poor A/C
    5. Door rattle
    6. Window regulator and noisey operating of power windows (TSB on that one)
    7. Wiper Blades defective after only 6000 km
    8. Trunk latch came apart (not by forcing)

    I don't have 10 yet on my list, but I am sure I will ;-)

    Take comfort though, the 2006's HAVE a better or different A/C. I am hearing more and more people test driving the 2005 and 2006's and they are saying the A/C is great in the 06's but the [non-permissible content removed] in the 05's that they have tested!

    I owned a 2002 Jetta TDi and my gf owns a 2000. The Jetta is built in many ways better than the Mazda, but worse in others.
  • kagedudekagedude Member Posts: 407
    For my 2005 Mazda 3i, the glovebox rattle is back. It seems to be coming from inside the lock cylinder or the lock hooks. Wanted to know if anyone else is experiencing this with their 3 and if there was an actual fix by the dealer? Thanks.
  • heybradyheybrady Member Posts: 75
    I don't put any stock into JDP's ratings of cars. It seems they rate alot of American cars higher than foreign cars and I just dont see it. I value Edmunds or Consumer Reports much more than JDP. I dont think JDP is a very scientific rater. Consumer Reports is non-profit, has to purchase every car it tests right from a dealer lot, has nothing to gain or lose depending on its ratings, and doesn't let companies use it's name in advertising. On the other hand, JDP is a private company where I can see a company paying extra for a good rating so it can film a bunch of commercials with the JDP trophy.

    That's just my .02, but if JDP rates it poor, and just about every other source rates it well.....

    Also, it is unfair to use ratings/reliability from a 2004 model. First model year ALWAYS has issues, no matter who the manufacturer.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    You say "First model year ALWAYS has issues, no matter who the manufacturer"

    The question is - what does the manufacturer do to solve the problems that come up with a first year model?

    Do they jump on the issue right away - let the customer with the problem know they are working on a solution - and then fix the problem in a reasonable amount of time - (That is what Toyota, Honda & EVEN CRUMMY OLD GM did when I had problems with a first year model)

    Or do they take the MAZDA route- which is tell the customer its normal - maybe come out with a fix in a year or so.

    Take my grinding brakes - first Mazda says its normal - then they come out with a TSB to fix the grinding - so it must be a problem - the grinding goes away for a few weeks but then returns - now its considered normal again - 1 1/2 years later - Mazda has a new TSB - so it must now be considered a problem again. (I plan on trying to get the dealer to do this TSB next week when I get my oil changed)

    Its not just the car - its the service after the sale that is important. This is where Mazda falls short -

    I like to buy new models - have done so many times - have always had some level of bugs - a rattle / a clunk some minor issue - all have been fixed - only with Mazda am I still waiting almost 2 years after purchase to get the first year model issues fixed.
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