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The AC in my Mazda3 has always worked good until the temps hit 85 degrees - I will get to give the heater a work out tomorrow.
One thing I figured out about the heater - if you turn the air flow switch over to the left side of the dial - like you do when you run the AC - and then push the recirc button - until the car warms up - it stops the cold air from coming in through the vents.
Thanks. This worked for me today. 37 degrees and snowing here in NYC.
I'm in the process of buying a new Mazda3 (if I can actually find the color/model I want). I use my iPod constantly when I'm in the car and have used a cassette adapter up to this point. I tried an FM transmitter and the sound quality was horrid. I have two friends with FM transmitters and they stink as well.
I wish Mazda offered an AUX jack at least as an accessory. Since they don't, I'm thinking the best best for me is to have the accessory cassette deck installed. It's a clunky (but realistic) solution. I'm sure the dealership will think I'm crazy when I ask for it.
Anyone else found a way to hook up their iPod in the 3? I have found some sites that show a way to "hack" into the stereo and install an AUX jack, but I'm not technical in the least.
Any input is appreciated!
Thanks.
Last Friday I had to drive through rain/snow/sleet/ice from the Jersey Shore to Philadelphia to work. Who knew that there wouldn't be a plow on the interstates along the entire route? The 90-minute trip turned into a two and a half hour trip.
Lots of cars were experiencing traction problems, but I didn't like the feel of the ride (and I love my 3). I'm in the market for winter tires.
I assume the vinegar order is mold - if not I sure don't know what else it could be.
I thought the problem was caused by a plugged evaperator drain line - you know the water that drips from under your car when you run the AC on a hot day. If this line gets part way plugged - the water backs up - dark & wet area in the HVAC is a good place for mold to grow.
It would be easy to check out .
I'm hoping the '06 won't have any problems. I'm picking mine up on Thursday afternoon.
Wise.
A friend was giving me a quick ride to the local auto parts store this weekend in his Buick and grinding the ABS at every corner to get the car to stop in the freshly fallen snow. When I asked had he considered winter tires he retorted: "What do I need them for? All you have to remember is to drive more slowly." And then we sped up to make the light.
I even ask the parts department for the part number of the AC evaperator for both the 2004 model and the 2006 model - someone (on this board or another) had posted that a sales person had told them Mazda had solved the problem by putting in a larger evaperator. But the part numbers are the same.
I had my windows tinted - and that really helped -
As far as the vinegar smell - Mazda never figured out what the problem was - would show up for a few weeks then go away - then come back - the smell would only last 10 seconds or so - each time I started the car.
My theory - the AC evaperator was part way plugged with mold - that reduced the air flow & reduced the cooling capacity - and caused the smell - but over time the constant flow of condensation washed most of the mold away - now my AC works (a little ) better and my smell is gone. Only problem with my theory - when I opened up the side panel on the HVAC I could not find much mold. Very small amount of black dust (I assumed mold) on the diffusser plate. But not enough to plug the air flow.
http://www.sylfex.com/products/AuxMod/
There are about 4 different kinds of solutions for Ipod Integration - you can search and find all about them at www.mazda3forums.com/
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The local Firestone center quoted me a price of $715 including mounting, tax, etc., for the Blizzaks
Thanks. The top of the center console is also easy to remove - only 2 screws. So hooking up the AUXMOD, and routing the cables, and drilling the holes for the cables to come out took maybe 2 hours total. And that's going along carefully
I knew there was a problem with those tires once I hit my first pool of water on the road. The car JERKED to one side suddenly and I was thankful I had both hands on the wheel to correct the sudden change. The problem is those goodyear tires aren't designed to handle real wet/snowy conditions, they don't have enough traction, that's the problem.
So for the winter, I went to NTB and bought myself a set of winter tires and wheels for below 800 dollars in the end. The tires were Dunlop SP M3 tires, highly rated by tirerack specs and reviewers, even maybe better than Blizzak! I discovered that I would get 50 dollars off the for each tire at NTB, so that's why I had them installed there. The wheel size I went to was 16in cuz the higher profile wheel will give you better traction control in snowy conditions. Hope that helps.
have any of you had similar problems with the mazda 3 ?
thanks
I'll also let you guys know how things work out for me trying to install the AUX thing myself.
I've always heard/read not to maintain a constant speed for extended periods of time during the first X amount of miles. Is this true? If so, how much should I vary speed and roughly how often? This has never been an issue before because I usually break them in here in Atlanta stop-n-go traffic.
Thanks!
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No special break-in is necessary - but in the first 600 miles Mazda recommends
Don't race the engine
Don't maintain one constant speed, either slow or fast -for a long period of time.
Don't drive constantly at full-throttle or high engine RPM for extended periods
Avoid unnecessary hard stops
Avoid full throttle starts
All sound like good ideas
Just don't use the cruise control -
I would take a tire gauge and check the PSI before I drove off the lot 90% of the time the dealerships put in too much air -think mine had 40 PSI -
Thanks for all the info. I'll stay away from cruise and not drive it too hard (for now). :P
Daryl
At extreme rpm and especially with no load (in neutral), what your pistons want to do is leave their connecting rods and go for a ride through the hood; concurrently, your connecting rods would like to release themselves from the crankshaft and gain their freedom as well.
So you have this rather amazing levels of stress pulling pulling the pistons toward heaven (but not eternal life).
The question then becomes-- was this amount of stress harmful in the long run?
It's hard to say but I rather doubt it, or you'd know about it.
Basically any engine wants to run up to destruction. Without controls, every engine would destroy itself.
I suspect you do have a rev limiter and that it worked.
However, every over-rev is rolling the dice. One time, that connecting rod, or bolt or wrist pin or whatever, is going to let loose.
Meade
But, in the words of Jeff Foxworthy, "Don't do that no more!"
Time will tell; I was concerned for about a week - that has since passed.
Several months back I had read in a auto magazine (I believe it was Automotive News) that Mitsubishi voided warranty on someone's Lancer based on info they found on the internet related to that particular vehicle and its owner belonging to a race club.
Just wait till they start installing 'black boxes' like the ones found on commercial jets. We are doomed.
Modock
Some mfg already use them....they don't inform the consumer either. Lawyers and prosecuters gladly use the information agaisnt you..