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Comments
I am sure you can get a reader for our Mazda3 from Pepboys or other auto parts stores.
* Gets bad gas mileage (estimate 14~15mpg, city driving, not leadfoot) No gas leaks, runs fine.
* Has a steering noise, kind of a clicking when turning. Almost sounds like something is rubbing against a rubber boot. At first I thought this was inside dash noise, now not so sure.
Anyone had similar problems, and possible solutions?
From reading this forum, it seems like getting the oil changed at Jiffy Lube is a bad idea. A special tool is required to properly secure the oil filter.
Also, it seems like folks generally have bad luck with warranty repairs from the dealers. However, everyone seems to agree this is fun car to drive.
Thanks for any advice/comments.
Apparently, there is a PCM (computer update) for some models (2005 for sure) to help with the lousy gas mileage but it is of no help. It's like the A/C issue in 2004-early 2006 models without auto climate control but the gas mileage is much more random than the A/C issue.
The clickin noise should be looked at by the dealer...it could be your CV joint or ???
You can look at the drivers side door frame it will give a month and year -just hope its not 10 2003.
My local dealer raised the price on an oil change - they now want almost $30 - but I would never use Jiffy Lube. Not worth it.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/
Thanks.
The real issue was not even all the defects - it was that Mazda would not fix them - I got so sick of the - its operating as designed - its normal - but then a year later a TSB would come out that was my EXACT problem. So I would take it in and get it fixed. I am glad I stuck with it now - all the defects (except the weak AC) have been resolved. I did some work on the AC system myself and it works somewhat better as long as the temp is below 90.
We bought the car on my daughter's 15th B-day - she learned to drive in it - my wife and I drove it around town for the first couple years & when my daughter turned 17 she took it over as "her" car. She still lets me drive it once in a while - like to the gas station!
Even though I had more than my share of problems with the Mazda3 - I still do not regret buying it - it is a good car for a young driver - GREAT brakes, side & side curtain air bags, very easy to drive & park, limited blind spots - and finally it is a car she really likes and its fun to drive.
She turns 18 at the end of the month - the Mazda3 will have 1 year of warranty left - I am already thinking about getting rid of it before the warranty expires - but when I ask her what car she would like to have when she goes off to college - she says - I like my Mazda. So I am faced with keeping it past warranty (it only was 25.5K miles on it) or trading it in on another Mazda3 - something I have said many times I would never do (buy another Mazda). Only time will tell - if the next year is problem free I may just stick a new battery in it and let her take it to college.
If you recall, it took Mazda 2.5 years to more or less resolve the A/C issue by redesigning the HVAC ducts in our non auto climate controlled models.
YOu mean the dimmer switch? That's the only knob in the centre of the dash? :confuse:
Thank G-d the dealer is within 2 miles from the house. A major reason why we bought there. They've been very accomodating to us these past 2 years.
The Sandman
With any car, Mazda or whatever make, having a reliable and dependable dealer is a must. Glad to see you found one. I have one too, or I used to. I have to travel 20+ miles to go there. But, recently the service manager and head mechanic/shop foreman ditched the dealership. The new manager is ok, but the mechanics are so so...looks like I will go somewhere closer to home and probably get some anxiety prescription meds from the Costco Pharmacy to help me deal with the BS that I will have to put up with.
The entire auto car service industry needs to change in how they handle customer complaints and concerns. The worst thing they can do is tell the customer that the vehicle is performing to factory specs when the customer is complaining about an issue. At least write something uncondescending like no anomolies were able to be found at this time if they can NOT replicate the problem, and if they do, they should write that down but indicate that no fix is available at this time.
No doubt, every Mazda 3 made since 2004 has the same pump whine problem, yet Mazda continues putting the same damn pump on cars that are rolling off their assembly lines today. And every Mazda dealership in the world no doubt continue telling customers "we don't hear anything, the pump is working fine", rather than them coming together to slap Mazda engineers "up side the head" for a design change. Too bad!!
Any clue?
Sounds bizarre. What's the "connection" :P ?
dinaura, can you give us a little more detail of what your son-in-law was attempting? Why would he "pull some fuses" to install door sills? Was he running wires under the door sills for some reason?
I was driving my Mazda two days ago on the hwy and I was coming into some traffic and started to come to a stop when the following warning lights came on, check engine, oil, and battery. Immediately after the car shut off. The dealer said they had no idea but they stated that there is new software for the car and updated it. Has anybody experienced this problem or have any idea on what it could be? Thanks
I'm guessing they were the aftermarket metal sills with light up "MAZDA3" on them - they have to be connected to the interior lights
Have a 2006 Mazda 3i with manual transmission (M/T). With the weather in DC finally getting cold, I noticed that the shift from 1st to 2nd gear is very rough, can sometimes feel the grinding, when the car is cold. This usually goes away after some driving, after the car has warmed up. The shift is fine in warm weather, and other shifts (2 to 3, 3 to 4, etc) are find when it's cold. I'm just wondering if anyone with a M/T has something similar happening to their M/Ts in cold weather.
I'm not too concerned, as my previous car ('95 Mitsubishi Mirage LS) had a similar issue, and a friend with a '05 Subaru WRX complains about a similar thing as well.
Is this just the oil in the gearbox not being warm and therefore thin enough to lube the gears, or should I go to the dealer to have this checked out?
Just trying to figure it out.
"ENGINE OIL INSPECTION
1. Position the vehicle on level ground.
2. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature and stop it.
3. Wait for 5 min.
4. Remove the dipstick and inspect for oil level and condition. Verify that the oil level is within the F and L marks on the dipstick."
Good point....I suppose that's what Mazda is waiting to happen: a lawsuit. I do think that Mazda, unlike Honda or Toyota has a "Godzilla" mentality to only "react" when something bad happens...they are NOT proactive, that is for sure.
Fortunately, in my case, mine has stalled at low speeds and the person behind me would be charged if he hits me because they were following to close. However, that's no consolation, the problem is still fairly common. Unfortunately, it's difficult to recreate.
I am almost certain that Mazda would rather payout individual claims such as rear end accidents instead of doing a complete recall of the Mazda3's. They already had a rough year or two with their recall of their Mazda5's. That should tell you something about their engineers' competence.
Could that be because no car is rated in terms of mechanical reliability by JD Power? I could not find "mechanical reliability" anywhere in their site.
The JD Power site lists Mechanical Quality for the first 90 days and Performance.
"Mechanical Quality - Manufacturing: Taken from the Initial Quality Study (IQS), which looks at owner-reported problems in the first 90 days of new-vehicle ownership, this score is based on problems with the engine or transmission as well as problems that affect the driving experience (i.e., vehicle/brakes pull, abnormal noises or vibrations) only."
"Performance: This component of APEAL is based on owner satisfaction with the vehicle's powertrain and suspension systems, including acceleration, handling stability, braking performance, and shift quality."
JD Powers rates the 2006 Mazda3 as "the rest" (i.e. lower than the rating "about average") in the Mechanical Quality-Manufacturing category and as "better than most" in the Perfrmance category.
Hmmm, I suppose in a problems and solutions board, some are focussed on problems, some on solutions, and some are bored.
"Mechanical Quality - Manufacturing: Taken from the Initial Quality Study (IQS), which looks at owner-reported problems in the first 90 days of new-vehicle ownership, this score is based on problems with the engine or transmission as well as problems that affect the driving experience (i.e., vehicle/brakes pull, abnormal noises or vibrations) only."
JD Powers rates the 2006 Mazda3 as "the rest" (i.e. lower than the rating "about average") in the Mechanical Quality-Manufacturing category.
Mechanical Quality aka Reliability is what most people [should] focus on.
"Mechanical Quality - Manufacturing: Taken from the Initial Quality Study (IQS), which looks at owner-reported problems in the first 90 days of new-vehicle ownership, this score is based on problems with the engine or transmission as well as problems that affect the driving experience (i.e., vehicle/brakes pull, abnormal noises or vibrations) only."
JD Powers rates the 2006 Mazda3 as "the rest" (i.e. lower than the rating "about average") in the Mechanical Quality-Manufacturing category.
Mechanical Quality aka Reliability is what most people [should] focus on. "
How does mechanical quality in the 1st 90 days equate to reliability? :confuse:
I've taken the car back to the dealership, as it is still under warranty, several times, only to be told that the trunk is draining the battery. Does that make sense?
Good question.