Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

mazdrvr · March 2007

yes this is a dumb question but just wanted to make sure... My very first oil change should be at around 4000 mi right? I was told to follow maintenance sched 2. But I was also told that oil changes should be every 3000 (my protege was every 3000). And I had my car about 2 mo, & have 2400 miles & got a letter from the serv mgr that I should be scheduling my oil change soon.

mazdabad · March 2007

ok i have this issue w/my '06 3s automatic sedan. when sitting at a light my car will lurch forward while my foot is on the brake. it feels like someone has slowly rolled into the back of my car. it's not a violent move, but my car does move. 2k miles ago mazda flashed my transmission(they think that is the cause). i have almost 20k miles on the car now and have already had my brakes replaced at 18k miles due to them wearing out prematurely on the rear. so i'm guessing it's not the brakes causing the issue but something else? also, i get a lot of popping noises from the back of the car. any ideas on that? lastly, one mazda dealer told me to get my transmission flushed at 20k, 2 others said it shouldn't have to be done before 30k. which is correct?

sandman46 · March 2007

He spoke to the wife and wants to see our paperwork. He told her he'd sign off on whatever it says, so hopefully this will straighten out this problem.
We also had our rear pads replaced at 12k and everything replaced at 24k, pads and rotors. Now we get the heavy brake dust back there, but that horrible noise is gone. They told us yesterday that we'd just have to live with the excessive brake dust on the rear axle. Any comments on this?
As long as he signs off on our complete policy, we'll have a oil change/rotation & tranny service at 30k miles.
Wish us luck!

The Sandman

z71bill · March 2007

First of all - it sounds to me like you should be using schedule 1 not schedule 2. But that is just based on the fact you drive 1,200 miles a month - look in the owners manual -

Do you make MANY short distance trips? So your engine does not get run long enough to become full warmed up - 2 miles and then stop - let the car sit for a hour or more - then another short trip.

Drive where its dusty (like on a gravel road?
Spend EXTENDED periods idling or at very slow speeds? plus there are a few others. If you say NO to all of these - then schedule 1 is where you should be - the guy telling you to use schedule 2 is trying to cheat you.

Also just because the Mazda dealer sends you a notice that does not mean you need to run in there and get the service done.

Many people like to get the first oil change before it is technically required - so maybe the first one at 4,000 is not such a bad idea.

But after that I would go 6 months or 7,500 miles WHICH ever comes FIRST. This is what it takes to keep your warranty coverage - 3,000 miles is a complete waste - and for you would mean an oil change every 2 1/2 months.

BTW - I have a 2004 Mazda3 - I don't know if the maintenance schedule has changes - mine is 4 month 4,000 for schedule 2 and 6 months 7,500 miles for schedule 1.

ex_tdier · March 2007

I find it odd that the manual says that Canada and Puerto Rico residents should follow Schedule 2- every 4 mths. Being close to the US border, that really seems odd because if one goes by the "book" one should use Schedule 1 (every 6 mths)if you live in the USA. I don't see any difference between the two countries if one is in the northern regions.

mazdrvr · March 2007

Thanks for the reply! I don't make sort distance trips. I use my car most going to work; Its a little stop & go on a busy main street until I reach the freeway then its about 12 miles on the freeway. Traffic on the freeways get bad (but nothing like California yet).

mazdrvr · March 2007

I'm in the U.S. I'm going to go read the manual again to make sure. I thought I would truat the dealership when they told me to follow sched. 2. (Not sure if it makes a difference being in the desert/Southwest).

z71bill · March 2007

Dealerships get paid to do things to your car -

They get paid the same to do an oil change - if your car needs one - as they do if it does not.

Many dealerships "fudge" a little on oil changes - tell you to change every 3,000 miles - or to use the severe schedule. Hard to find a 100% honest one - they can always say - We just want to help you make sure you take care of the car so it lasts a long time - or does not breakdown.

This next part is just my GUT feeling - so take it or leave it - I am just trying to help.

The oil change at the dealership will be around $25 - (between $20 - $30 at most places) - it will not HURT you too bad if you pay for an extra oil change every year -

Where you really need to be careful is when the dealership tells you that you need a 15,000 mile service - they will package a bunch of stuff together - oil change - tire rotation + balance - INSPECT brakes - CHECK front end alignment - INSPECT belts + hoses - CHECK CHECK INSPECT INSPECT - all for ONLY $295!!

This is where you really need to just say NO THANKS - use the owners manual - just do what it says to do - when it says to do it. 99% of the time this will save you money. If you think something is not right - like the car always wants to pull to the right when you stop - then have them check this out - but if every thing seems to be running like normal - then just do what the owners manual says.

It gets MUCH more expensive at the 30,000 miles service - it will be the same basic stuff they did at 15,000 plus an air filter - maybe they will want to replace your radiator fluid or transmission fluid - I have see dealers ask for $595 - and the 60,000 mile service will drain your bank account.

autonomous · March 2007

it will not HURT ... if you pay for an extra oil change every year
Agreed.

if every thing seems to be running like normal - then just do what the owners manual says
Agreed but with a caveat. The manufacturer requires that you follow their recommendations found in the manual. That's the minimum. If your garage identifies a problem area to have serviced, you can decide against the service but I would recommend that you at least monitor the area and look for additional advice/information. For example, many cars with four wheel disc brakes have issues with the brakes seizing and wearing down the pads and rotors. My dealership recommended a brake lubrication service which I passed since my brakes seemed to be fine. After hearing about the issue on the Edmunds forum I opted later to do the service as preventative maintenance; the result: my brakes at 50K miles continue to be fine. In other words, listen, learn and use your judgement.

z71bill · March 2007

I don't know what a brake LUBRICATION is - sounds like a scam - What & how much is it?

Its been years since I replaced pads / turned rotors myself - but the only thing I can ever recall putting lube on is on the back side the brake pad - right where the caliper piston pushes into the metal backing on the pad - and maybe on some anti-rattle retainer thingy - this doesn't do anything to extend the life of your brake pads or rotors.

If you pay someone to take this much of the brake system apart - you might as well just replace the darn brake pads while you are in there.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2007

lubricating the slides on the calipers, if they are the type that slide...pretty important.

autonomous · March 2007

lubricating the slides on the calipers, if they are the type that slide...pretty important.
Exactly. The service is pretty common where one has dirty road conditions (especially where salt is used to melt snow). The parts are removed, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled in about an hour and a bit.

z71bill · March 2007

So this allows the caliper to move freely - so your brakes don't drag?

How many $?

ex_tdier · March 2007

So, what do they put on your calipers or brakes to prevent them from clanging too loudly? I had that done on my 3 under warranty.

autonomous · March 2007

How many $?
The disc brake lubrication service costs C$100 (U$80) for the four brakes. If you have this done towards the end of the year, my dealer throws in a free winter tire installation (normally C$20- C$30).

hmccraw · March 2007

06 mazda3 22,000 miles wore tires to the steel belts on inside of all four tires. Took to dependable mechanic. Told me car has a minus 1 camber on all four wheels from the factory and is not adjustable . Anybody have the same problem?

coosamtn · March 2007

Dude, sounds like you've been having some serious fun!!

ex_tdier · March 2007

Took to dependable mechanic. Told me car has a minus 1 camber on all four wheels from the factory and is not adjustable . Anybody have the same problem?

In Engrish please?

mazdrvr · March 2007

Thank you & autonomous too for the valuable advice 7 tips!! Much appreciated!

z71bill · April 2007

On Friday the AC compressor in the Mazda3 started making a LOUD whining growl type noise - I have heard this noise before - and am 99.99% sure it's the bearings going out in the compressor.

When the AC kicks on it almost causes the engine to die - runs like crap when compressor is engaged.

Then today a dead battery - I had the battery checked two weeks ago because it seemed like the car was turning over a little slow - it checked out GOOD - I hooked up a battery charger and it will not even take a charge.

Anyone else having AC compressor or battery problems - my car has the dreaded 10/2003 build month - so I could be the first.

autonomous · April 2007

On Friday the AC compressor in the Mazda3 started making a LOUD whining growl ... Then today a dead battery
Bummer!

What's the mileage on your Mazda3?

z71bill · April 2007

Just hit 26,000 -

sandman46 · April 2007

The wife mentioned yesterday that the a/c doesn't seem quite right. Had to put it up from 2 to 3, but it felt cold coming out. I do hear the compressor though when it engages but hopefully it's acting normally. I feel your pain z71bill though. Cold a/c is a must!
Down here in Florida, a battery usually only lasts a good 2 years and I've gotten into the habit of just swapping it out at the 2 1/2 year mark. It always dies at the wrong time and I prefer that not happen. Maybe foolish, but the 1st time my girls had the '01 Altima alone...the battery died. A frustrating experience for all.

z71bill · April 2007

I had a feeling the battery was getting weak - but I had it tested - and it came back GOOD - I am on the fence (again) about dumping the Mazda3 - my daughter goes off to college next year and I want her to have a reliable car -

The Mazda3 has had more problems - in the 38 months we have owned it than any other vehicle I have ever owned - including cars I bought used. More trips to the dealer for problems than our last 5 cars COMBINED. But

She likes the Mazda3 because it is the car she learned to drive in it - and feels comfortable driving it. She likes the way it looks also - I figured I would make the decision this summer. I even considered getting another Mazda3 - but that would be hard to do - considering how poor Mazda has treated us - by Mazda I do not mean the dealer - I am talking about Mazda corporate.

autonomous · April 2007

Just hit 26,000 - z71bill

28k 05 3s ... in Florida, a battery usually only lasts a good 2 years ... habit of just swapping it out at the 2 1/2 year mark.sandman46

Is that because batteries hate humidity? I have heard that although the cold is difficult on car (especially including batteries and other electricals) heat and humidity can be worse. Mine has miraculously survived five severe winters to top 84,000 km (52K miles) and is still chugging along. We've got our fingers crossed as we head to 90K :surprise:

Mr_Shiftright · April 2007

Batteries hate real hot operating temperatures---so depending where they are in the car, they could have a shortened life in very hot climates.

Worst case would be say a turbo car with battery in the engine compartment in AZ or FLA.

sandman46 · April 2007

I agree with Mr. Shiftright, the high heat can be very bad for a battery and indeed does shorten it's useful life. But by swapping it every 2 1/2 years, nobody in the house should ever get stuck with a dead battery again.

The Sandman

stallionre · April 2007

In my other cars, I am using a Gel battery. Does anyone know if we can use a Gel type battery for the 2007 Mazda 3 S Grand Touring. The heat where I live is so hard on a car and especailly the battery. I never get more than 2 years on any battery.

ex_tdier · April 2007

The Mazda3 has had more problems - in the 38 months we have owned it than any other vehicle I have ever owned - including cars I bought used. More trips to the dealer for problems than our last 5 cars COMBINED. But

She likes the Mazda3 because it is the car she learned to drive in it - and feels comfortable driving it. She likes the way it looks also - I figured I would make the decision this summer. I even considered getting another Mazda3 - but that would be hard to do - considering how poor Mazda has treated us - by Mazda I do not mean the dealer - I am talking about Mazda corporate

It's the parents that usually know best. Don't use emotion but logic to dictate if you should keep the car or ditch it. Personally, if I were you, I would get rid of it. She'll probably thank you someday as opposed to be mad at you when she gets frustrated with the car.

stallionre · April 2007

I agree with Mr. Shiftright and The Sandman, However, I always have good luck with the Gel batteries. They seem to last twice as long as all the other batteries. They are price higher, but they work better especially in high heat states.

stallionre · April 2007

PLEASE HELP SOMEONE, I just got my new car yesterday and drove it home, while coming to light, I heard the brakes make noise in the rear, I then pulled into my garage and smelled a brake burning smell from the rear wheels. I have 30 miles on this vehicle. Is this normal? Please advise. This is much appreciated!!! Have any of you experience this? I have the 2007 M3S Grand

Touring.
Thanks

mazdazoom · April 2007

Silly question...you did not accidentally leave your E-brake engaged did you? If not, I would double check the pads to see if they look normal. I would also take it back to the dealer pronto for an inspection; unless the E-brake were left on for the ride home

...

Good Luck.

stallionre · April 2007

No I didn't leave the E Brake on at all. I made sure of this 100%. The dealer told me that this is normal for the first 200 miles, since it is wearing off the factory grease from the calipers. The last time that I bought a new car was in 1997 and I now I remember the same thing happened to me.

stallionre · April 2007

Thanks for your advice, I am going back to dealer in two weeks for some accessories that they need to install, so I will have them check it out then. Until then I will drive local.

mazdazoom · April 2007

Prolly a good idea, that is wierd...I have never had that happen to me on any of my new cars. I would be curious to know why there is an abundance of grease on the calipers, but I suppose what they are saying is possible, well good luck anyhow.

stallionre · April 2007

Thanks. What I find out later with my new car, I will post.

stallionre · April 2007

Does anyone have the homelink compass auto adjust rearview mirror? I need help with it. Does the car need to be on in order to program the homelink feature? I had the car on Acc and tried to program the homelink mirror, but it didn't work. Please help. Thanks.

JBaumgart · April 2007

Did you follow the instructions exactly? Most garage doors have a security feature that uses "roling codes" that makes setup a little trickier. I was able to mine on the first try but I have done this with three other previous cars. I can't remember if I left my car running but if you have it on full accessories it shouldn't make a difference. Go over the instructions one more time and follow the steps exactly.

One more thing, did you have the dealer add the mirror as a dealer-installed item? I know there are specific mirrors for the various Mazda models, and if the dealer added it make sure it's the right one for your specific model ("i" vs. "s" etc.)

stallionre · April 2007

Thanks so much for your help. I left the car in Acc position, but maybe not all the way. I turned the key until the light came on the Homelink mirror, however not to the point where the clock was on. Maybe that is my problem. I bought the Homelink unit with the car as an added dealer acc, the day I bought my car. I don't know which model of Homelink I got. I got the S car, so they should of known that right? I didn't know that there is a difference between the i and s model homelink. Where do I find this out? My garage door has "rolling codes". I will try this again tonight when I get home. I went over the steps about 15 times. :confuse:

z71bill · April 2007

I had a problem programming my Acura to open the garage door - I had no problems with three other vehicles. I called homelink on their 800 number -

I was told that with an Acura you must have the engine RUNNING or it will not program -

If you program a GM vehicle the engine must be OFF or it will not program.

The guy from Homelink said - in general US cars - engine
off - cars from Japan - engine must be running.

stallionre · April 2007

Thanks so much for this news. WOW, who knew? Nothing states that in the Homelink or the car manual. If that doesn't work, I will call the 800 number.

smallcar1 · April 2007

Sandman,

How is the Altima's mileage compared to Mazda3S?

JBaumgart · April 2007

"I got the S car, so they should of known that right? I didn't know that there is a difference between the i and s model homelink. Where do I find this out?"

You would think they would know, but the salesperson I dealt with spent at least 10 minutes with a manual trying to confirm which mirror was the right one. Mine also comes with the compass, whereas others don't. I didn't get the outside temp reading because the S-GT model has that. Anyway I'm glad my salesperson was careful and hopefully your's picked the right one also.

stallionre · April 2007

Thanks for the info. I see on the service invoice the right part number was for the GT car. So I got the right one. Mine also has the compass and temp, but I don't use the temp, since the car has that already. I will try to turn the car on. Thanks again.

mazdabad · April 2007

actually my tires are wearing unevely and i was told "nothing" was wrong. i only have 20k but they are wearing about twice as fast as the other side(the tires are wearing fast on the drivers side). how did your mechanic figure out the problem? is this something that can be fixed?

hmccraw · April 2007

Actually my daughters grandfather took it to his long time mechanic and said it has a -1 camber on all four wheels and cannot be adjusted. He said we will have to wait until someone comes out with something in the aftermarket world to repair this. Thought about going to the mazda dealer and discuss this with the head mechanic just haven,t got there yet. please keep me posted if you hear anything thanks!

stallionre · April 2007

JBaumgart,
I tried everything last night to make this Homelink work and it still does not work. I am placing a call today about it. When you hold the two outer buttons down to program the homelink, the green light is suppose to blink and it does not. I have tried over an hour, even with the car on. I will call the dealer about it. Any suggestions?

jbollt · April 2007

Go to the homelink website.

Homelink

I had a similar experience with my Toyota. Tried numerous times to program following Toyota's instructions in their owner's manual. No Luck. I went to Homelinks website, and followed their instructions, it worked first time! There was a minor difference, but I forget what it was now.

One more thing. Follow the instructions to clear all buttons before re-trying to program.

sandman46 · April 2007

Mileage was about the same actually. The Altima had a 2.4 liter engine and the 3s has a 2.3.

The Sandman

stallionre · April 2007

jbollt,

Thanks for the advice. I have been at this site many times. I will try it again. I just got off the phone with Homelink and they said that I got a bad unit. Maybe and maybe not. I am not sure what to believe anymore. I would love to make this unit work, so I don't have to get a new one. I wish that I knew the difference what you did to yours to make it work. I had the car on, but in the garage, does the car need to be outside? I will check this web site again. What tab did you go to for the homelink directions?
It states to hold the outer two buttons for 20 seconds to clear the memory, the light should blink, and does not. This is the problem that I am facing. I can't even get to the programming part of it.

Thanks.

Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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