Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

joem5 · July 2008

Thanks I'll Google Cosco now.

igozoomzoom · July 2008

I suppose I've never missed have the left foot rest because none of my previous cars have had them. They've all been manual transmissions, too...so I probably wouldn't use it much even if I had one. Although it might be useful on the highway when I go long period without putting my left foot on the clutch.

The mention of wearing the carpet in the area where a left foot rest would be made me wonder- has anyone else worn a hole in the right-heel area of the driver's side floormat? Mine was starting to noticeably wear when the car was barely two months old. By the time it was 1-yr old, a whole (at least 1-inch diameter) had formed all the way through the carpet AND the backing of the floormat! I ignored it until the car was about 18 months old. That's when I realized that the hole wasn't just in the floormat, but the carpeting under the mat, too...all the way down to the metal/insulation underneath!

Anyone else had similar issues with their mats or carpeting? It's the only complaint I have with the interior, which is otherwise made of very high quality materials.

After I discovered how bad the worn spot had become, I ordered the All-Season Rubber Floormats AND the Premium Carpeted Floormats from the Mazda Accessories catalog. The Premium Carpet mats are worlds better than the standard ones- in quality, durability and looks. They come in black with red or blue accents to complement the interior. I just wish they had a heel pad on the driver's mat to take the bulk of the abuse that killed my original one.

redmazda3 · July 2008

I am on my 3rd drivers side floor mat. Both of the previous ones were replaced under warranty. Apparently with my AT, I must keep my heel in the same spot as I drive. The motion of going from the accelerator to the brake pedal wears down the floor mat eventually making a hole. I did not make a hole in the carpet under this mat, but I do have a tear in the front passenger carpet right in front of the shelf that goes under the seat. People either place their foot there as they are getting in and out and twisting their feet as the slide along the carpet. Right now the dealer tried a stupid fix of putting velcro under the floor mat to cover the hole. That didn't work very well. I am going to see if there is anything else they can do. My 4 year warranty runs out in October, so I'll be doing something very soon with the carpet. I also have a shudder when the car shifts from 4th to 3rd when decelerating, coasting a bit and then accelerating. So far the dealer has been real accomodating about any problems in the past and hope this will continue.

roadburner · July 2008

I suppose I've never missed have the left foot rest because none of my previous cars have had them. They've all been manual transmissions, too...so I probably wouldn't use it much even if I had one. Although it might be useful on the highway when I go long period without putting my left foot on the clutch.

If you do any serious performance/track driving you WILL miss the left foot rest as its purpose is to provide a place to brace your left foot. I'm glad that my MS3 has one.

ylz · July 2008

Hello all. Would someone who owns a 2008 Mazda 3 WITH Nav, please comment on this. It is an accurate navigation system? It is tedious to use with that controller next to the shifter? I know it may not be worth the price but I like the clean look of a nav system in a car but I need some feedback on THIS particular nav. Please help. Thanks.

joem5 · July 2008

mine workswell. You have to upgrade it every year w. new mmc or as in wife's BMW a disc. I use mine alot using a pencils eraser end as it's faster more Accurate ,or easier to program.
You're right it has a clean look but.cost too much.
I have a Navi 240C in my RSX and it sits in a beanbag on dash you can't get it to slide . I like better than the in dash one too because it's portable and i can put it in a cup holder w/ mount.,and no one can see it. I don't look at them much .I just listen to it and if I screw up it reroutes me.
I only have 900 miles on my Mazda 3,I doubt I'll have it next year. I think the car is cheaply made. I never saw felt floors and so much plastic. I bet the tires will barely be good for 25K.
However , it's will be a good winter beater. I 'll sell it and go to a TSX. Good luck to you though and I hope you enjoy your'e ride Zoom Zoom :shades:

joem5 · July 2008

I bet when you tried the car out you never noticed the cheap felt carpeting,or velcroed floor mats.
I think the car is made on the cheap to make it light for better MPG. Man it's all plastic. The floor wells are not deep enough to put cut pile in it or custom rubber floor mats from Auto sport. I've been reading the horror stories on how the tires wear. The car is a head turner to some,thats why it sells and the price is right.
I'm going to buy rubber mats at wall mat and swap them out .
I did put a Shark Fin antenna on itand sideways it looks like a Beamer. ,but it's history next year . I've had it 2 months and have only 900 miles on it 147 are dealer go get miles. You get what you pay for.

roadburner · July 2008

I did put a Shark Fin antenna on it and sideways it looks like a Beamer[sic]

You mean it looks like a BMW motorcycle?

Bimmer= BMW Automobile
Beemer= BMW Motorcycle

whilst · August 2008

Hi. I too have an '06 3i Touring w/5spd Auto.(daughters').
I drained her fluid yesterday, and w/only 45K on it, the fluid was as black as any I've ever seen!
I added 3.5 qts of Mobil1 ATF.
However,this is NOT approved fluid for Mazda!-It's up to par,just not approved.
Exxon/Mobil emailed a response to me yesterday stating a NEW re-formulation of Mobil1 Universal Import ATF is due to hit shelves anytime after August 1.
That is approved by Mazda and other mfg.s'
HTH.

riccardo1 · August 2008

hey man i got the same problem with my mazda 3 2004 model. every time i accelerate to 1500 revs i hear a ticking noise coming from the intake manifold. i thought it was the lifters at first and i also thought it was the timing chain but it seems to be this bufferfly thing in the manifold.How much would it cost me to get it done? is this a common problem with my car?? plz get back to me asap b4 i decide wot to do. thank you..

mazdalemon · August 2008

My issues started at approx 52k mi. What's your mileage? When the intake manifold was replaced in Jan 08 it didn't cost me any $. BUT it was part of an ongoing issue: the engine had been replaced in Feb 07(guessing time frame). I paid labor. It started ticking again in Jan 08, spent two weeks in shop, tearing down engine and putting it back together and it stilled ticked. Finally they found the noise in the manifold. Mazda hasn't had a recall but should. I know that my dealership has seen it in other Mazda3's since my problems. tech said that it's happening in 04, 05 and 06 years. All my service has been done at dealership so they were a little kinder $wise.

wvdriver · August 2008

I'm a new owner of a Mazda 3 - 5 dr - 2.3. I just got under the car for the first time to change the oil, and I'm rather confused. The belly pan has a hole in it where I can see the oil filter housing, and it looks like it should have been an easy job to change the element. Except that the opening in the pan is about 4" off center from the filter. Is there no other way to get to the filter other than to remove the pan. Have I got the wrong cover, or is this just incredibly bad design?

roadburner · August 2008

Except that the opening in the pan is about 4" off center from the filter. Is there no other way to get to the filter other than to remove the pan. Have I got the wrong cover, or is this just incredibly bad design?

Yep, you have to pull the pan. One of the many reasons I'm flipping my Mazdaspeed 3 for an E46 M3.

mazdazoom · August 2008

Yeah, you have to take the whole "skid plate" off. As I understand, the hole was something to do with the assembly process and inspection, it was was not meant to pull the filter out of. Also, if you are going to do it yourself be sure to have the right tool. You want an oil filter socket that has all of the sides of the oil filter cap. If you use a regular oil filter wrench you can break the plastic, if it does not break, it will over time warp and cause a large leak. If that happens, after a fresh oil change you will find yourself having to drain your fresh oil and then make a trip up to the dealership to get another oil filter cap because it has warped. I would buy something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6903-Filter-Socket-Engines/dp/B000NBYDWW

just be sure to be very easy taking it on and off, that plastic is sensitive...

Good Luck.

roadburner · August 2008

just be sure to be very easy taking it on and off, that plastic is sensitive...

I'd recommend using an accurate torque wrench to install the cap. Far too many bozos have cracked the filter cap by cranking it down "good and tight".

jcarboni · August 2008

Got a question. I have an 04' Mazda 3s Automatic When it goes from 1st to second gear, it sticks for a brief second. Has anyone else had this happen or know what might be the culprit?

Thanks!

mazdazoom · August 2008

Right you are, I usually just hand tighten the cap and that seems to work fine for me. I am not sure what the spec is for the proper amount of torque to apply, any idea what mazda calls for?

PF_Flyer · August 2008

Tuesday means Mazda chat night! Mazda ownership is not a requirement!

Just bring yourself and your love of cars and the desire to discuss anything and everything automotive and you're good to go!

The chat opens at 8:45 pm ET and runs until 10 pm ET. I hope you're able to join us tonight to meet and greet with your fellow CarSpace members!
See you there!

PF_Flyer · August 2008

Tuesday means Mazda chat night! Mazda ownership is not a requirement!

Just bring yourself and your love of cars and the desire to discuss anything and everything automotive and you're good to go!

The chat opens at 8:45 pm ET and runs until 10 pm ET. I hope you're able to join us tonight to meet and greet with your fellow CarSpace members!
See you there!

roadburner · August 2008

any idea what mazda calls for?

I think that it's 30 nm- it should be stamped on the cap. BMW uses a similar set-up and calls for 25 nm.

dclurker · August 2008

This is a great site on how to change the oil on a 2.3:

http://robert.aitchison.org/tiki-page.php?pageName=Mazda3+DIY+Oil+Change

cheyman · August 2008

Hi All,

I just bought my 04 Maxda 3 2.3 3 months ago. It had roughly 45000 miles on it, now I have 50700. I drive about 100 miles a day. I have noticed over the last couple of days a rattle everytime I accelerate. This moring driving in, the rattle got worse and something blew from the engine. I pulled over and checked my engine; oil was leaking very badly. I had it towed to my dealership where they said (before official diagonstic) looks like a hole in the block.

I have not changed the oil yet, last oil changed at 44500 so i'm under 7500 and I've only had it for three months. After reading through the forum, I am now very worried what Mazda is going to say. Does anyone have any advice with dealing with them? or any thoughts?

cheyman · August 2008

UPDATE:

It was the lower connecting rod bearing. Four holes in the engine block. Car had oil & the oil was clean.

May look as if I'm getting a new engine

autonomous · August 2008

last oil changed at 44500 so i'm under 7500
In many cases, it is better to change the oil every 5000 miles or 4 months, so you're likely due. The 7,500 miles is if you drive in ideal circumstances. Check the owner's manual under Maintenance and compare Schedules 1 and 2.

p.s. did the previous owner provide you with the maintenance records of the car?

ahightower · August 2008

The 7,500 miles is if you drive in ideal circumstances.

I agree, but I still don't think it has anything to do with his engine trouble. I don't think you're implying that either, but just to be clear.

autonomous · August 2008

I agree, but I still don't think it has anything to do with his engine trouble. I don't think you're implying that ...
Right on both counts. Let us know what happens next and good luck.

joem5 · August 2008

Whats a e46 M3 :confuse:

JBaumgart · August 2008

An e46 M3 refers to a BMW M3 from model year 2002-2006.

joem5 · August 2008

I thought the Mazda 3 in order to change oil you just unscrew filter and the drain plug.
My wife bought a new I value Mazda 3 she has an BMW 5 Series and uses the Mazda for parking at the hospital. She has owned it 3 months and has 986 miles on it. Last year the concrete washed on her 5 Series
and the Medical Center detailed her and 52 more docs cars. This Mazda is her anti ding car too.
She goes to dealers on all the cars she owns ,doesn't watch money like me.So does it cost extra for removing the pan to change oil.
My Type S is twice the Mazda. That Mazda has felt carpeting,and built out of recycle plastic,not to mention when she got home she noticed an ash tray and cigarette lighter with a cigarette painted on lighter lit up. I had to run down to the Subie parts and get a cap that had 12v/120 watts on it for her to plug phone charger in it,. The Matts are velcroed to floor . She thought it was carpet.
Well thanksfor the heads up.

.

iampigge · September 2008

I know your post is old. I am hoping you still check the boards. I have the same issue and hear from my tire guy that this is a frequent issue with the tires and this "package". Did you come up with a solution?

frankchen009 · September 2008

Hi folks, please help me out of this mess. I bought a 2008 Mazda3 half an year ago and now it has 6000 miles. Last Thur when I started the car, there was a big noise coming from the car and the check engine light and transmission light light up and the car can not operate. Then the next day I towed the car to the mazda dealership and have them check it for me. They rent a car for me and told me it is covered under mazda warranty. But today they told me the problems are caused by that some wires and hoses running around the engine were chewed and broken and the insulation around the wire also come off and some sensors are broken. They think it is caused by animal-chewing and I have to pay everything ($1300 for reparation) including the rent car for the reparation. Nothing will be covered under warranty. I think this is ridiculous and unfair for me. Have you heard this before? What should I do? Thanks for all the advice.

Mr_Shiftright · September 2008

If this is indeed the case, then you make a claim on your regular car insurance for this damage.

Rodent damage probably isn't covered under your warranty. You should read the warranty over carefully in your warranty booklet.

roadburner · September 2008

I was lucky; a chipmunk hid about a dozen acorns in the airbox of my 318ti, but at least he didn't munch anything expensive. Wasn't there a story a few years back about some European rodent that was wreaking havoc on wiring harnesses in Germany?

ahightower · September 2008

shifty beat me to it. File a claim if you have comprehensive coverage. It'll be subject to your deductible, but that's probably less than $1300.

eternalife1 · September 2008

Recently (out of nowhere) I started hearing a rustling noise that sounds like it is coming from somewhere inside the dash on the driver's side. It only makes the sound when I am driving (when I am at a stop, you don't hear anything). Does anyone have ANY idea what this might be??? I hate to bring it in to the shop and have them pull the whole thing apart for this, but it is annoying and I want to make sure it's not something bad.

PLEASE HELP!

ahightower · September 2008

I did my first oil change on my 2008 Mazda3i 2.0 liter last weekend. I want to know why is the hole in the splash guard not lined up with the oil filter? Maybe it is lined up for the 2.3 liter? I had to remove the entire thing to access the filter, and when I put it back on I couldn't get those plastic clips back on. All of the screws are back in, but not the two plastic clips. I reckon that's good enough. I was tempted to not put it back on at all, figured most cars manage alright without it. But I didn't feel right having "extra parts" left over... Anyway, I don't suppose there's anything to be done about it, but I wanted to complain. Maybe I'll cut out a little more of the plastic to make it more accessible. Most likely I'll just live with it and take it off and on every single time.

scwmcan · September 2008

It doesn't line up for the 2.3 either, apparently it is for ease of assembly in the factory not for us to do the oil changes. The dealer didn't put the plastic clips back on mine either so I wouldn't worry about them. As for the screws, next time I would apply a little grease to them, and also make sure you don't tighten them too much, the nuts on the clip will start turning if you do and then it is a real pain to get the guard off (I know from personal experience).
Scott

conall · September 2008

Does anyone else have any problem with the 3 gear synchronizer?
It is sometime a bit difficult to upshift into 3rd.
The gear won't always completely engage, and then if I push it in without returning to neutral, it will grind.

Mine has over 37k miles on it right now.

mudderdear · September 2008

I bought a brand new Mazda 3 manual transmission in May 2004 with 60 miles on the vehicle...My sister has a 2000 626, loves it and barely any major services needed to it so I am confused as to why mine has had so many issues. The list includes multiple head light issues (replaced each one about 3 times each maybe more), rear brakes needed to be changed at 35K and 70K, wiper arms needed to be tightened, tensioner went 2 months ago- they wanted to charge me $600 to repair it, this past week a sensor light came on for seatbelt/airbag tensioner came on and had to be replaced- $200 and at the same point I complained of brakes squeaking and smelling of burning rubber but they did not want to look at it because they only wanted to fix one thing at a time- ends up I go to use my e-brake the other night to get my mail out of the mail box and the car is slowing rolling away- appears the brake cable is snapped or something...The other annoying this is that I have questioned the dealership that does all the services why the front brakes are in perfect condition according to their plastic tests but yet I was hearing the squeaks the guy tells me well then maybe you should just do the brakes which leads me to believe he has no clue and they only care about making money at these dealerships...Anybody have any of these issues?? Another issue that my sister had in her 2000 626 was the trunk filled up with water when it rained which mine did as well because the plastic lines unsealed which was not a pleasant site when I went to change my tires and the spare was sitting in inches of water and [non-permissible content removed]...Very frustrated at this point that my car is 4.5 years old 86K and looks like I should really look to get something more reliable...I have had previous cars (mitsubishi/geo prism) that went more miles with none of these issues- regular maintenance- oil changes, tires and front brakes every 60K....any input would be greatly appreciated as I am ready to write a long letter to Mazda as well as complain about the service at my dealership as they seem to be idiots...

nsbio1 · September 2008

It sounds like your car does have a few issues but only one of them, the brakes squealing, is a fairly major one. To address this issue, I would take the car to an independent shop specializing in Japanese makes, instead of a dealer.

conall · September 2008

I haven't had any of the problems you've mentioned,
although I have had my thermostat replaced under warranty twice.

So I gather you have no problems with your 3rd gear synchronizer?
My brother has a Ford Focus with the same problem, and I believe it is likely that both the Mazda 3 and Ford Focus have many parts in common.

mudderdear · September 2008

well apparently the brakes squealing must have had something to do with the E-brake as I dont hear any of that noise and basically confirmed I have no e-brake/cable has to be snapped as it is so loose.......I want to call the dealer and complain as they are such idiots which drives me up a wall...

autonomous · September 2008

You seem to have had a whole pile of issues/nuisances. We feel for you!

brand new Mazda 3 manual transmission in May 2004
In other words, you bought the first year of a new model. As Consumer Reports has noted there is a risk in doing so even with reliable brands like Honda and Toyota.

head light issues (replaced each one about 3 times each
There seem to be others who have had this issue. Did you have them replaced or did you do the job yourself.

rear brakes needed to be changed at 35K and 70K
Seems premature, especially for the rear brakes. Did you replace the brake pads or the pads and rotors?

wiper arms needed to be tightened,
First time I heard of this. What was happening with the wipers?

tensioner went 2 months ago- they wanted to charge me $600 to repair
What tensioner do you mean?

light came on for seatbelt/airbag tensioner
Is that related to the previous point?

mudderdear · September 2008

My sister kindly reminded me that yes I bought the model in its first year so she assumes there is bound to be problems but do we have to suffer for their bugs?

Tensiorer= surpentine belt (ultimately it snapped which caused me to lose all power to the vehicle- the only clue was a noise when I turned on AC only but when it did happen I was on the highway and all the alerts went on (battery, oil, etc) it was scary but luckily I made it with barely any steering to the dealer as I glided right into their garage..

Seat-belt tensioner- it is a sensor that is supposedly linked up to the seat belt and airbags to go off in case of a crash- they said since it was now malfunctioned I would need to get it repaired or else I could be risking myself in an accident which I definitely did not want to do especially since I have a 12 yr old son that rides with me...There was a previous recall on this but apparently they fixed what needed to be done to my car back in 2004-2005

wiper nut became loose so that the wiper blade couldnt go up and down luckily the dealer didnt charge me to tighten this up...

only changed one headlight (practically impossible to do on your own with these new cars) but over the past 2 years they would go off like clock work had the dealer change them each time and they said it was just a bad bulb, after the 2nd time i complained to headquarters and they covered them all under warranty which saved $30 each time..

Brakes- front ones never been done only back brakes, at 35K did just brakes and at 70K did brakes, pads and rotors (wasn't cheap either time) I keep asking when I should have fronts done and they said when it gets to the "yellow" or "red" indication which is weird because everyone I talk to says they did 2 front brake repairs to 1 back brake repair- when I complained to Mazda they said I must be driving with E-brake on to cause this and that I must drive stop and start because I live in CT...so now my thought is maybe there was a malfunction with the e-brake all along which rode down on the brakes to a point where I replaced them 2 times and now the cable must be snapped now- should know by end of week.... :confuse:

autonomous · September 2008

wiper nut became loose so that the wiper blade couldnt go up and down luckily the dealer didnt charge me .
Good that the dealer handled this!

only changed one headlight (practically impossible to do on your own with these new cars) but over the past 2 years they would go off like clock work had the dealer change them each time and they said it was just a bad bulb, after the 2nd time i complained to headquarters and they covered them all under warranty which saved $30 each time..
Good that this was covered also!

Brakes- front ones never been done only back brakes, at 35K did just brakes and at 70K did brakes, pads and rotors (wasn't cheap either time) I keep asking when I should have fronts done and they said when it gets to the "yellow" or "red" indication
Agreed, this sounds odd. As you say, it's usually the front brakes that get worn first. And you're right the whole job (brake pads and rotors) is costly.

PF_Flyer · September 2008

Tuesday means Mazda chat night! Mazda ownership is not a requirement! Just bring yourself and your love of cars and the desire to discuss anything and everything automotive and you're good to go!

The chat opens at 8:45 pm ET and runs until 10 pm ET. I hope you're able to join us tonight to meet and greet with your fellow CarSpace members!
See you there!

JBaumgart · September 2008

Have about 28,000 miles on an '07 2.3 and have changed the oil using Mobil I 5W-30 at 4,500 - 5,000 mile intervals. I have noticed that the oil seems to get dirty fairly quickly, especially compared to our other two vehicles, but this one's of course a 4 cylinder vs. a V6 and V8. Do you suppose the reason is that the four has to work harder than the two other which have larger engines? Just curious as I have confidence with Mobil I which I've used for many years with no issues.

ahightower · October 2008

Interesting. I've got to assume the oil is good for at least that long, probably 7500 or more (although I also prefer the 5K interval myself, it's about as far away from the old 3month/3K ingrained in my head as a teenager as I can seem to get, even with synthetic).

I just used Mobil 1 for the first time and noticed going in how much darker it looked than the Valvoline I had used a few weeks earlier on my other car. This may be a dumb question, but have you always used Mobil 1 in all your vehicles, and done the oil changes yourself?

Maybe try a higher quality oil filter. Or a better engine air filter. What do you use now?

Mr_Shiftright · October 2008

With modern engine oils you simply cannot tell anything of informational value by the color anymore.

roadburner · October 2008

With modern engine oils you simply cannot tell anything of informational value by the color anymore.

Exactly. I've run Mobil1 5W-30 in my Mazdaspeed 3 since the first 5000 mile oil change and I've had the oil analyzed by Blackstone Laboratories at every oil change since. In every case the oil was in good shape; no excessive shearing, a high flashpoint, and a solid TBN. My last oil change interval was 5182 miles, and that included four hours of track time at Putnam Park Road course. Blackstone advised that the oil would have been good for at least another 1000-15000 miles.
That said, I change the oils in my naturally aspirated vehicles at 6000 to 9000 miles intervals-also using Mobil 1-and those vehicles are running great as well.

Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles