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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • berbelberbel Member Posts: 167
    pf:

    Thanx for the "welcome back." It was appreciated.

    igozoomzoom:

    I'm not sure that I completely understood your question concerning my post but.....
    yes, there is another style, i.e., the 4d sedan. Now then, if you were being sarcastic,
    my answer to your question would have been, "Not as far as I'm concerned."

    berbel
  • berbelberbel Member Posts: 167
    Since I trade every 3 years (sometimes less) I've owned a lot of cars, the majority
    of which have had Japanese name plates. Until I bought the Mazda, I have NEVER
    had a problem outfitting my cars with such accessories as mud flaps, window
    visors, moon roof visors, aero kits, etc. Not only is my dealer telling me that
    a lot of these accessories are unavailable for my car but I can't even find a lot
    of this stuff in the after market either. This makes absolutely no sense to me.
    I mean, like who doesn't have basic stuff like mud flaps available for the cars they
    sell besides Mazda???

    Does anyone here have any insight on this?

    Thanks/berbel
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,341
    Have you checked the Mazda Accessories brochure? For some reason mud flaps are available for the 2010 sedan but not the hatch. I sympathize; Mazda never offered any mud flaps for the 2007-2009 MS3 either. I don't know what Mazda's logic is. I guess I'm spoiled; BMW offers a boat load of accessories for both their new and late model cars- including mud flaps. I can even get a few add-ons for my 1995 3 Series.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • berbelberbel Member Posts: 167
    for the reply.

    Oh yeah, I did check the brochure. Available for the sedan as you noted but
    not for the hatch. Living in east central Ohio with our winters, my doors and
    fenders are taking a beating and those flaps would go a long way to alleviating
    this.

    Incidentally, is this board usually this slow? The last time I spent any time on
    Edmund's boards was when I owned a Nissan Maxima and that board had numerous
    posts every day.

    I think I'm going to send an email to Mazda in CA and ask them why they are
    discriminating against h.b. owners with regard to accessories.....Take care.
  • moozmoozmoozmooz Member Posts: 3
    Its slow because nothing ever goes wrong with our cars so we are all out driving,,,zoom zoom.
  • smitty2010smitty2010 Member Posts: 1
    edited February 2010
    saak,

    I've had exactly the same experience as you with the power steering on my 2010 i touring. The noise didn't start until a month or so into ownership, but has grown progressively worse. One person (with an extensive technical background) who heard it guessed that it might involve feedback between electrical sensors. Contrary to what some other posters here have to say, I'd be surprised if this problem isn't widespread.

    Aside from this and a few minor quibbles, I'm happy with the car. I chose it over a civic ex, and don't regret the decision.
  • melontonesmelontones Member Posts: 2
    I have a vibration from the passengers side when accelerating in my 2005 3. When cruising on the highway it's quiet. At stop lights, it will vibrate in drive, but not in N. The odd thing is that when the temperature outside (not that of the car) warms up above 60, the car is quiet at stop lights in drive, but vibrates in N. I prefer to work on my own Mazdas, but have spent almost $500 for mechanics to tell me they can't find it. Any ideas?
  • saaksaak Member Posts: 9
    Thank you, smitty2010.

    I have learned to tolerate the annoying whining sound from my 2010 3 i touring's power steering unit, which varies in intensity. (Note that the whine disappears when the parking brake is applied.) At my next oil change in a few months, I have scheduled a road test with a mechanic at the dealership to point out to him exactly what I'm talking about. So far, I've been told that there is nothing that can be done to reduce the whine. I have not given up, though. Thank you for your friend's suggestion about possible electrical sensor feedback.

    I agree, too, with your last sentence. I am happy with my purchase overall, and have no regrets.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Could you clarify the problem?

    Based on your post, the vibration seems to occur:
    a) when accelerating
    b) at a stop light when in drive but not in Neutral
    c) at a stop light when in Neutral but not in Drive when temp outside is 60+.

    Does "a" happen whenever you accelerate? For example, from a stop light?
    Has the car been warmed up (that is driven for at least 10 minutes) in the case of "b" and "c"?

    You mention the noise coming from the passenger side. Have you checked that it's not coming from inside the car interior, like the glove box?
  • melontonesmelontones Member Posts: 2
    The car is warmed up. I drive 50-100 miles a work day. It always happens when I press on the accelerator. I can be cruising (using the accelerator not cruise) on the highway at 70/2500rpm with no noise. The second I begin to speed up I hear the noise. It always happens from stop up until I get to a cruising speed. I had my wife drive the car with me in the passengers seat and I could feel the vibration coming from the floorboard.

    Something I noticed yesterday: While on the highway (65mph) there were slight dips in the road. When I went over them, the car made the sound, but intermittently.

    This has been going on for 2 months and has not gotten worse. Thanks for responding.
  • eoghan1eoghan1 Member Posts: 58
    A while back it was possible to pull a Mazda 3 shop manual on line. I believe it was through the midwest car club.com. I bookmarked it and found it useful. Now it seems they have gone commercial and the manual is not available on line but one is offered for sale. Did I miss something? Did anyone down load it when it was free and have it available? BTW I am approaching 50k on my 2004 3S hatch 5spd without any problems. Mobil 1 every 5K and she keeps on humming.
  • 05mazda3iusaf05mazda3iusaf Member Posts: 4
    Hey everyone, This is the first Mazda I have owned. Its an 2005 Mazda3i manual. I have always loved mazdas and wanted one so now i finally have one. But here the thing I'm in the Air Force and i want this car to last me. Right now it has 78,xxx miles on it.

    The only thing i can think of right now is when i turn the heat or A/C on the fan in the engine will "pulsate" go one for a few seconds then cut off then turn back on. Does anyone know why it does this? and what can i do to fix it or is it normal.

    Also whats the life span on these transmissions?

    If you could answer this that would be awesome and any other maintenance i should do before its to late. Thanks Alot!

    Jason
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,341
    Can't help you on the fan problem except to suggest it might be a bad relay.
    The transaxle should easily last the life of the car if maintained properly and not abused. I'd change the oil in it every 50K at a minimum. As for other preventative maintenance, I'd change the coolant every three years and the brake fluid every two years. Run a good synthetic 5W-20 and you can get away with changing the engine oil every 7,500 miles.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • 05mazda3iusaf05mazda3iusaf Member Posts: 4
    Alright do they do that when they do an oil change or is that something different? Who do you think i should bring it to for a bad relay?
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,341
    Alright do they do that when they do an oil change or is that something different?

    No, you have to ask for those services separately.

    Who do you think i should bring it to for a bad relay?

    The relay is just a guess on my part. You need to find a shop that employs mechanics- not just some joker who throws parts at a problem. As for where to go, all I can suggest is checking out some of the regional boards on the Mazda forums; you should be able to find recommendations for good dealers or independent shops.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I'd change the coolant every three years and the brake fluid every two years.
    Curious, I thought the coolant was to be changed every two years.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Assuming it is the same as my Mazda, the maintenance schedule actually says 10 years or 120K mi for the first coolant change and 5 years/60K mi for subsequent changes.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Assuming it is the same as my Mazda, the maintenance schedule actually says 10 years or 120K mi for the first coolant change ...

    I checked the Edmunds Maintenance page for the 2010 Mazda3 and you're right! I was quoting the coolant replacement service for my 2002 Mazda Protege5. That is an amazing difference! On the other hand, I suspect that the coolant inspection results in changes more frequent than once in the first decade.

    p.s. Another important difference between the Mazda Protege and its successor, the Mazda3, is the replacement of the rubber timing belt by the timing chain; the longer lasting timing chain is a significant saving in maintenance for most drivers. Kudos to Mazda for making these types of improvements to the maintenance of their vehicles!
  • sonnyrockersonnyrocker Member Posts: 127
    I have my 2009 Mazda 3 just over a year, and I experienced power steering failure while driving on the highway. The steering wheel gets tightened and you have to use some muscle to turn it, I got it off the road, turned off and restarted the engine and everything was fine, but that was dangerous.

    I took it to the dealer and it is power steering motor/pump failure. I read that this is a common problem and apparently there is a recall on it.
    My car is still under the warranty and the part is backordered. Due to safety issue, dealer gave me a rental car to drive until it is fixed.

    For all Mazda 3 owner, please watch out for the power steering warning light. If it comes on and your steering wheel tightens, don't panic. Use your muscle to pull it to the side of the road, restart it and see if it works. If it does, drive it to the dealer right away!!!
  • sonnyrockersonnyrocker Member Posts: 127
    okay, I read some earlier posts....so now we know that the 2009 cars have the same problem as the 2008s. When I was in the shop, there was another car brought back for the same problem. Now that the 2009s are over a year old, I suspect that we will see more power steering issues....
  • katieloukatielou Member Posts: 1
    OMG! My power steering failed on me yesterday. I was turning into a parking lot and my car just stopped since I was already going slow. So frustrating. My AC is not working properly either and I already had to replace a window motor right off the lot, along with tires. All before 20,000 miles.
  • missfeather77missfeather77 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 05' Mazda 3. It has 109,000K and is overall in great running condition. My check engie light has come on and gone off a few times, but now it is on for good. We had new s. plugs installed, but that did not help with the light. The "symptoms" my car displays: sitting still it will idle very low from time to time, like it is going to shut off-it doesnt though. Also, it has misfired twice (1X that happened "AT" lit up beside my D on the dash - but then went off). Lastly, it will completely hesistate once I start to accelerate to the point it feels as if I am hitting the brakes and as fast as that begins, it catches and takes off fine. I have noticed the hesitation from 0-1st gear and 2-3rd gear. Auto Zone said after hooking it up, it seems to run rich in idle. Our personal mechanic said the check engine light gives 8 different issues/parts (codes) it could be??!! Anyone have any insight? We dont want to take it to Mazda....
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    05' Mazda 3. It has 109,000K ... misfired twice ... hesistate once I start to accelerate ... feels as if I am hitting the brakes ... noticed the hesitation from 0-1st gear and 2-3rd gear. Auto Zone said ... seems to run rich in idle.

    This may be related to your car's emissions control system, including your EGR valve. If it's dirty, the car will be "gasping" for air, consuming additional fuel and hesitating.
  • sonnyrockersonnyrocker Member Posts: 127
    the only problem I had was just the power steering. It is under warranty, they fixed it and gave me a rental car for 4 days. All is good.
  • zippy12zippy12 Member Posts: 2
    My check engine light was on. Sometimes my car died at a stop light. Sometimes it died on short trips. I took to my mechanic and it was the EGR valve that needed replacement and it had something to do with the emmisions also. So apparently this is a problem on our cars. It cost a bit-but since it was in for a 60k service they only charged for the part which if i remember was around $100-but I am not sure. Good luck-these cars are GREAT!!!! :P
  • 05mazda3iusaf05mazda3iusaf Member Posts: 4
    I think that might be the problem in mine sometimes it will be great on gas sometimes its sucking it up and the hesitation is a thing my car keeps doing. where can you go to get the EGR valve looked at?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    where can you go to get the EGR valve looked at?
    Mazda dealerships should be aware of this problem, but, also any good garage can check it out. I would tell the garage what you are experiencing; see what they suggest could be the cause. If they don't mention your emissions control systems, then you might want to suggest it to them. Or, you might want to check another garage.

    By the way, this may be a good time to mention that the fuel you use can affect the engine components, including the emissions systems. So, the bargain gasoline that is a few cents cheaper may not really be a bargain.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,341
    By the way, this may be a good time to mention that the fuel you use can affect the engine components, including the emissions systems. So, the bargain gasoline that is a few cents cheaper may not really be a bargain.

    My 2007 MS3 was throwing the P0401(EGR flow insufficient) code on a regular basis. I switched from Kroger 93 fuel to BP 93 and after a few tanks the problem has not reappeared. I've always run BP, Chevron, or Shell in my BMWs as I know they can be temperamental with regards to fuel quality, but I am surprised that fuel quality would have any significant effect on the function of the EGR system. Live and learn...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I am surprised that fuel quality would have any significant effect on the function of the EGR system. Live and learn...

    "Cheap gasoline frequently contain more undesirable sulfur compounds and may increase combustion chamber carbon deposits. Such compounds contribute to higher exhaust emissions and catalytic converter problems ... The EGR valve re-circulates carbon dioxide from your vehicle's exhaust back through your engine. EGR valve symptoms are as of: experiencing reduced power, detonation (pinging), rough idle, or stalling and hesitation when accelerating."
    From partsource.ca
  • eineejeineej Member Posts: 2
    Hello:

    I am experiencing the same problem you have just described. Although I couldn't stand looking at the check engine light on all the time. I took it to Mazda and had them run a diagnostic test on the car, and yes paid the $129.95 they charge just to get the codes off the computer. The problem is caused by the EGR valve ,that is constantly failing . If you have also gotten the AT light to tun on ,it's because the TSS Sensor is getting caught up in the problem. Although the AT light turned on I ws told the transmission is fine, but advised not to run the car for long distance until I get the part fixed. Overall Mazda wants to charge $595 to fix both the EGR valve and the TSS sensor. However. I checked with Advanced auto and they have the valve for $60.00. I will definitely take the car in this week to get fixed ,but it won;t be to mazda. I read that not replacing the EGR valve will cause damage to your engine in the long run. Hope this helps.... :)
  • energyzer8energyzer8 Member Posts: 6
    What year is your Mazda and how many miles?
  • eineejeineej Member Posts: 2
    edited May 2010
    My mazda 3 is a 2005 and has 77,000 miles.
  • dfurnierdfurnier Member Posts: 26
    We have a Grand Touring auto hatchback. Took it to the dealer (recently picked up Mazda) to have it replaced. After two hours, they told me they tore it apart and it had no provision to have one, so they put it back together. Do only some have them?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah you have one. Right side, behind passenger junction box and kick panel. Part is about $35, labor .3 of one hour.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,341
    I'd definitely find another dealer. That one sounds dangerously inept.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • anayaelfanayaelf Member Posts: 8
    I recently traded in my 2007 Mazda 3 to a 2010 Mazda 3. I loved my old car but I wanted a newer model. What a mistake I made.

    As soon as I drove off the lot, I noticed my speakers were not working I turned back around and took it back to the dealership and they said it was the fuse. So I took it to the service station the following week and they told me my amplifier was defective and they ordered a new one for me. A week later, I got it installed. About 4 days later, I get into the car and the battery is dead. I have to wait another few days until the weekend to take it back to the service station. They replaced the battery same day. Then I wake up early 4 days later, park the car in front of my house while I went on a 3 day school trip with my daughter. I return 3 days later and get into my car, the battery is dead again. I take it into the service station (this is right at the start of the Memorial Day weekend) and they tell me the car should be fixed by Wednesday, June 2. Mind you, this is May 29th at this point. I am waiting for my car now.

    Oh, did I tell you I purchased this car on May 1, 2010. I have had it only a month and I have spent every Saturday at my service station because of this car.
  • saaksaak Member Posts: 9
    I don't know about the speakers, but if you have non-Mazda electronic accessories hooked up to your car (such as a scan guage) that could be causing your battery to drain when the vehicle is parked several days without being driven.
  • sonnyrockersonnyrocker Member Posts: 127
    I have a 2009 model and I love mine. I did have to take it in for several things. One was the fabric of the seat, which was defective. and then my power steering pump failed after one year, but they replaced it for free. Apparently that is a common problem.
    I don't know about the 2010 models, personally I don't like them except for the hatchback model which is sharp looking.
    Sorry about the problems you are having, but good thing that it is not engine related. Something is draining your battery for sure, and they need to find out what is causing it.
  • anayaelfanayaelf Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the replies. As for having something connected in the car, I don't. I don't keep anything plugged in. The only thing I plug into the car is my iPod and I take that out when I leave the car. I already had one car broken into because I left another cheap mp3 player in the car.
  • 2010m3hatch2010m3hatch Member Posts: 1
    I feel your pain. Bought my Mazda 3 5-door in April and have had numerous problems: It idles a little rough - the steering wheel vibrates whenever I'm stopped at a traffic light. Noticed idle on the second day of driving it. In addition, the glove box rattled. Took it back and was told rough idle was normal and they stuck little "soundproofing" pads inside the glove box.

    Now there is a loud squeak coming from somewhere in the rear hatch area, the center console lid rattles sometimes, passenger window rattles when it's partially down, instrument dials sometimes rattle... Really it's like the car was put together with Elmer's glue.

    Since Mazda has said nothing is wrong with my car, I feel like I'm stuck with what could be a lemon, but you should definitely look into your state's lemon laws. You may qualify.
  • anayaelfanayaelf Member Posts: 8
    I am so sorry about what you are going through with you Mazda 3. I know it would drive me crazy if my car was rattling.

    Well, I did look up my state's lemon laws (the second time the battery died). It says that if the same problem happens after the second time it is fixed by the dealership then I have to contact the manufacturer about my problem. I have to show them proof of the attempts to fix and then see if they will (1) try to fix the problem themself (they have one attempt to do it), (2) give me my money back or give me a new car or (3) they can decide to take me to administrative lemon law court and battle it out. So I have my 2 attempts down, let's see what happens next. My car is still in the shop as of today. I have been trying to reach them to find out about my car.
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    I guess we should keep our 2007 a little longer...42,000 miles and no problems so far, just a set of new tires and routine maintenance. I personally like the styling better than the 2010 models also.
  • crybickcrybick Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2010 Mazda3 that I bought in February. Love the car, have had no problems with it whatsoever, EXCEPT my sunroof has leaked. At first it happened when I took it through a touchless carwash, so I reckoned it's understandable that it leaked under the high pressure spray. But this morning I was driving in a heavy rainstorm here in Mississippi and after reaching up and feeling the back of the sunroof I felt moisture. Surely it shouldn't leak in the rain?

    I took it to Hiley Mazda in Huntsville, Alabama after the first time it leaked and the rude service manager (after warning me that I would have to pay if they found leaves in the sunroof track?) said they'd look at it. According to him there was nothing wrong with my sunroof.

    My mom has a 14 year old Honda Civic with a sunroof, and it's NEVER leaked. But I notice that her old Honda has a raised rubber seal around the sunroof while my Mazda is flush in order to look "cool." Anyone else ever have a sunroof leak?
  • missfeather77missfeather77 Member Posts: 2
    Hello! I currently own a mazda, BUT had this exact problem with a brand new toyota corrolla I owned a few years ago. (it was a flush sunroof as well) and there are drain tubes around the sun roof. At the factory, one of the tubes was not attached and it caused it to leak on my head in heavy rain, etc. It was a simple problem and a simple fix. So, I would mention this to Mazda and tell them to fix it ASAP considering it is a brand new car. Good luck!
  • anayaelfanayaelf Member Posts: 8
    Well, I haven't had my Mazda 3 that long and I can't remember if it rained the days I did have it (it is still in the shop with the battery problem from an earlier post). But I will be sure to keep an eye on my sunroof when it rains to see if it leaks and I will let you know.
  • sonnyrockersonnyrocker Member Posts: 127
    I had a Honda Accord for 12 years, it had a sunroof. It started leaking just very little after I had it for about 8 years, and the moisture ruined the interior roof of the car and the fabric started to come off. Prior to that, I had a Toyota Corolla with a sunroof which I never had any problems at all, and I had that car for 10 years. If you are involved in an accident, the chances of your sunroof leaking will increase.

    But with a sunroof, this is a risk for sure. When I traded in my Honda for a Mazda, I decided not to get a sunroof because I don't want to have to worry about it.
  • anayaelfanayaelf Member Posts: 8
    I also had a 2007 Mazda 3 with a sunroof. I don't remember if it was flush to the ceiling but I never had a leak problem with it.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,341
    When I traded in my Honda for a Mazda, I decided not to get a sunroof because I don't want to have to worry about it.

    Not to mention that it adds @60 lbs. of weight to the highest point in the car. I'm so glad my MS3 didn't come with a hole in the roof.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • zbeckerszbeckers Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 mazda3 with 95,000 miles (standard).

    My check engine light comes on and off all the time. Everytime i have it checked out the only thing they can figure out is that it is an "engine misfire".

    After dealing with a blown gastic head for $1,500, now i am going to have to spend even more money to figure out exactly what the engine mis-fire is because my car won't pass inspection.

    This will be the last car i by with mazda. I got the 3 over the civic but wish i had gotten the civic. The car sits too low the ground and scraps everything and the splash guard is a joke. It started falling apart within the first year. GRRRR
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    wish i had gotten the civic. The car sits too low the ground and scraps everything and the splash guard is a joke.
    This is the first time I have heard that the Mazda3 sits too low. Does the Civic sit much higher than the Mazda3? Was your Mazda3r lowered as part of a modification?

    blown gastic head
    Did you mean a head gasket? Were engine components modified?
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