Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

autonomous · October 2006

The first time I had to remove my wheels I had a similar experience. The cure is anti-seize compound which you can find in a hardware store or auto shop. Bill's WD-40 sounds good, too.

bfyerxa · October 2006

I'm looking at the 3 and the Civic. Like the 3's dynamics over the Civic, Civic is more refined, etc. So now looking deeper into both. Generally a Honda fan as every one I have owned has been bulletproof - but they are boring! Skimming through this group and I see the 3 has a stalling problem :surprise: . I hate these nebulous problems because once you get them it is a beeeyotch to get it solved. Does this affect the 2.3l only, or is the 2.0l prone as well? I would be getting a manual tranny. We have a Mazda5 manual (which I love driving) and when cold it seems to be a little dead when stepping on the gas and trying to pull away from a stop. In fact, it is sluggish below 3k rpm and you can really feel the VVT stuff kick in at that point. After a few minutes it all goes away and the power seems fine. But no stalling...

velleboudt · October 2006

Hi,
I have a Mazda 3 2005 and I had it in to my mazda dealer for the Check Engine Light 8 times in the last year. I got a lemon lawyer and sued. I got all my money back and Mazda paid my legal fees. I deposited the check today. I wish you luck. I live in California and the Lemon law works well. All in all it took about 1 month.

herrkaleu · October 2006

I need to fill up brake/clutch fluid and coolant on my 2005 5-door. I'm not sure what to use. Then manual says the coolant has to be "FL22" if that is written on the cap. Well, there is nothing written. It also would be interestig to know, because that FL22 has to be repalced after 10 years/120,000 miles. and other coolant every 4 years.

For my Buick I used DexCool from GM, but that is pink, the stuff in the mazda looks blue.

About the brake fluid the manual says it should be SAEJ1703 or FMVSS116DOT3 which one should I use? Can I use any that meets those specs?

what power steering fluid should I use? for my buick with 137,000 miles I just used soem from Walmart, but that does not say if it is ATF-M III or equivalent...

So, what do I use?

thanks for the help

z71bill · October 2006

I can not help you much on what type of fluid to use - if you can't figure it out from the manual - you can always call Mazda customer service - or send them an e-mail.

Its normal for the fluid level in the brake and clutch to drop as the brake pads and clutch wear. In most cars it is best to not top it off - unless the level gets close to the minimum line. Then it would be a good idea to check your brake pads - when new pads are installed the level will come back up. Its also not a good idea to take the cap off any more than absolutely necessary. Brake fluid will absorb moisture quickly (even from high humidity) this will cause corrosion in the brake system.

If the brake pads are not worn and you need to add fluid (every few months) it can indicate you have a leak in the system.

carhopper · October 2006

Mazda's 2.3 engine comes equipped with a timing chain.
I was also curious about the answer to your question so performed some research. I read several threads from auto mechanics who noted that a timing can last 100,000 to 200,000 miles before it needs to be replaced. Oil change intervals seems to be the under lying factor that determines the service life.
Good luck with your car.

dride · October 2006

That's interesting, I asked about this at my last oil change, and the service tech told me it was a belt. He also said it should absolutely be replaced at 60,000 mile intervals ($350.00). I'm not saying you are wrong carhopper, just noting there seems to be a lot of different information out there. I had one break in my Honda back in '97. The Honda had 140,000 on it, but it happened in the worst possible place in the dead of winter on my way home for Christmas. Anyway, the repair shop it was towed to gave me this BS about the belt snapping, and the valves being bent, and yadda yadda yadda, they'd give me $80.00 for it for scrap. I ended up renting a two wheeled trailer, and my brother towed it to a Honda dealer...$350.00 later, I drove the car for another 20,000 miles, and my brother is still driving it today. Now in my V-Dub, I was always worried about it breaking b/c everyone in a VW had a timing belt horror story. In any case experience has dictated that this is one part to get updated before it fails. When it does fail, the results will more than likely be quite inconvenient.

m3fan3 · October 2006

my 2006 mazda 3's cd changer just crashed. i cant do anything like change discs or tracks or eject them. the screen says everything it usually says (the lapse time, cd#, track #)has anyone had this problem or have any idea how to fix this besides going to the dealer. by the way this isnt the first this has happened. it happened the same exact way and mazda replaced it)

jhindson · October 2006

This problem affects 2006 Mazda 3's and possibly many other Mazda products that share the same locking mechanism design

Thieves have figured out a way to bypass the Mazda locking and alarm system without the alarm going off. We purchased three 2006 3 Mazda 3's and two of them have been broken into twice each using the same technique. The charteristic mark is a 4 to 5 inch long dent about 2/3 the way along the driver's door just below the bottom of the window.

I won't go into the specific technique that is suspected but it works

Mazda knows about this problem. I think that it should result in a recall - What do you think. Consummers should have a reasonable expectation that if a thief enters a vehicle the included alarm should activate - right?

z71bill · October 2006

Mazda3 uses a timing chain not a belt. If the service guy at Mazda told you it has a belt then he is an idiot.

BTW - unless Mazda developed some new system - the engine oil never comes into contact with timing chain - so I don't see a connection between how often you change engine oil and the life of the chain. I have seen a chain fail because it stretched - so it messed up the engine timing - but this was in a V8 that had over 500 HP.

In all but a very few situations the chain will out last the engine.

autonomous · October 2006

Bill's right it's a chain which likely will outlast the engine. A truly useful improvement over the Protege (its predecessor) which used the belt. Why are there timing belts in this day and age? Is it simply to lower the vehicle's production costs?

mkuchyt · October 2006

The interior plastic of the 2007 4dr GT seems to attract dirt and scuff marks. Has anyone found a good way to keep this looking clean and new?

Thanks.

dride · October 2006

Is it a bunch of baloney then to replace it at 60k miles? Would you folks ever replace it? I do not think this is addressed in the owner's manual. I am going off of the service interval reminder I get from the dealer. What does the timing chain do? How is it different from the serpentine belt?

autonomous · October 2006

As Bill noted your timing chain will likely outlive the car so you need not worry about it. The reference to replacement at 60K miles is for a timing belt not a timing chain. The chain is typically made of metal and the belt of rubberl so you can see why one would outlast the other.

Tip: if you're still unsure call an independent garage and ask for their opinion about how to service your Mazda3.

dride · October 2006

What does the timing chain do?

What does the timing belt do?

I believe based on the last post I have had timing BELT failures in other vehicles, not timing CHAIN failures. I would appreciate a short description what each of these components does in the engine if anyone has time.

autonomous · October 2006

Here is an excerpt from www.car-stuff.com explaining timing chains. You may want to visit an auto store or your public library for a book on the topic.
"... without a properly installed and adjusted timing chain ... the valves on your engine dont open and close at the appropriate times. A sloppy timing chain can result in poor running, valve clatter, and loss of power ... signs that your timing chain may need replacement include loss of power and noise from the timing cover at the front of your engine. Unlike the timing belt crowd, you probably wont destroy your engine by running with a worn out timing chain. "

dride · October 2006

Thanks for the info. Are you saying the Mazda 3 only has a timing chain and not a timing belt? I know the difference btwn a belt and a chain, but am unable to determine what the timing belt does. When the timing belt went out on my Honda, I experienced all of the symptoms in the last post. What does the timing belt that needs to be replaced at 60k miles do? I am doing research, but have not been able to get a definitive answer. Thanks for any insight offered.

z71bill · October 2006

As an engine runs the pistons move up and down in the cylinders - the pistons transfer this force to the crank shaft - this turns the crank shaft - the crank shaft rotation is what ends up turning your wheels - by providing power to your tranny (but that is another story) the end of crank shaft also sticks out of the front part of the engine - if your engine has a timing chain it has a sprocket on the end of the crank shaft - as the sprocket turns it moves the timing chain - the timing chain then turns a sprocket that is hooked onto the cam shaft - as the cam shaft turns it makes the valves (both exhaust and intake) move up and down (opening and closing them).

The timing chain provides the link between what position the exhaust and intake valves are in (open or closed) - in relation to the position of the piston (what stroke the piston is in). The timing of this link is critical to the operation of an engine. So I guess that is why its called a timing chain.

In most car engines the piston moves up and down 2 times in each cycle - or make 4 STROKES - that is why they call it a 4 stroke engine. Stroke 1 has the piston moving down - with the intake valve open (fuel and air comes into the combustion chamber at this point) then the valve closes and the piston moves up compressing the air fuel mixture (stroke #2) - just at (really just before) the piston reaches top dead center (as far up as it can go before starting back down) the spark plug fires and causes the fuel and air to burn (its like a little explosion) this forces the piston down (stroke #3 - the power stroke) - then the exhaust valve opens and the movement of the piston back up (stroke #4) forces the exhaust gas out of the combustion chamber and eventually out your tail pipe. Then it starts all over again.

If your engine has a timing belt it is the same thing - except instead of sprockets and a chain it has a pulleys and a belt.

If your belt breaks then the valves stop moving and with some engines the piston can crash into them - causing major engine damage. Bent valve stems - broken pistons - damaged combustion chamber = you need a new engine or at least an expensive over haul.

jeffreygl · November 2006

For 14,000 miles and 2 years I have been getting only 13-14 city mpg on my automatic 2004 Mazda3 hatchback. Dealer has been useless in 6 visits. Any others have same problem and/or solutions?

jeffreygl · November 2006

2004 Mazda3 Hatchback has had 7 flat front tires with the low profile 17 in rims, obviously NOT made for city driving. Any similar experiences or solutions? I bought a new tire today and got another flat tonight!

z71bill · November 2006

Sounds like bad luck -

Why would a low profile tire get more flats?

codybird · November 2006

I have a 6 month old Mazda 3i and was recently in a car accident. According to the shop body work and alignment was the only problem. I also reported a whistling sound that occurs when I turn the wheel. It can best be described as a constant low hum that grows louder when I turn the wheel whether I am driving or not. At first the shop said they did not know what was causing the sound, a second look and they said it was a normal engine sound. Except it was not there before the accident. I am taking it in somewhere else for a second opinion. Any thoughts of what might be causing the sound? And anyone else's car make this noise?

thanks

ashmr20 · November 2006

I'm having that CEL issue. It came on last time with rough idle and a replaced purge valve solved the problem. It's on agian with no symtoms. Anyone know a way to check the codes without the help of a mechanic? I used to get the CEL to blink out the code on my 80s GM cars.

autonomous · November 2006

Anyone know a way to check the codes without the help of a mechanic?

Sounds like a job for an OBD reader. ON the other hand, it may be a diagnostic by a professional. I have not bought a reader myself because I have heard a) the information provided for the codes needs to be interpreted by a mechanic; b) the code may provide only a partial picture of the root problem (example: code may refer to O2 sensor problem but the root of the problem may be "further up" in the emission system which is affecting that O2 sensor).

Personally, with all the talk that we hear about how sophisticated cars are it strikes me as ironic that we feel less in control. I think that as consumers we should demand better information about our car systems; imagine in addition to navigation systems we had an onboard computer diagnostic tool that explained the "code" and the proper remedy so that we could talk to our mechanic with some confidence about the problem.

m3fan3 · November 2006

I have a 2006 mazda3 S grand touring, with leather. i use a vinyl cleaner and then a vinyl protectant for the dash, center console, doors, pretty much all plastic. the website is www.pinnaclewax.com. i purchased it in "The Driver's Seat" store.im in SE Florida so i dont know if there are any stores in your area. the whole kit was $65. yes it is quite expensive however it is worth it. you can buy one thing seperate.

nedzel · November 2006

"Why would a low profile tire get more flats?" The shorter, stiffer sidewall provides less cushion between the rim and a pothole.

z71bill · November 2006

Good point -less cushion between the rim and a pothole - I was thinking nail in the tire = flat!

I have hit some horrible pot holes / railroad tracks at 45 MPH and have not had any tire damage (205 50 17 stock tires) - what speed are you going when you hit a pot hole that causes the tire to be damaged (flat?)

BTW - IMO if you hit the brakes before a pot hole to slow down that is a good thing (DUH) but - if continue to brake hard while actually hitting the hole that is a bad thing to do. You are better off taking your foot off the brake right before the tire impacts the hole/ large bump.

When you slam the brake on hard it causes two things that can increase damage.

The front the car dives down - this puts extra downward force on the front wheels reducing the amount of suspension travel available to absorb the shock.

Also by braking hard you are may cause the wheel to be almost stopped at the point of impact - rather than turning freely. This was a bigger issue before anti-lock brakes - skidding into a pot hole with your front tires locked up will cause all kinds of damage.

lh180001 · November 2006

I purchased a new Mazda 3 (auto tran) in late May 2006. Currently has 5300 miles on it. Approx 10 times so far, the engine sputters (as if it is going to stall), this has happened while idling, upon acceleration from idle & when traveling at low speeds. Then this past weekend, while idling at a red light, the engine stalled completely (no sputter), just went dead. It cranked up immediately afterwards.
I took it to the dealership today and they've already called saying they don't see anything wrong with it.
Searching this forum, I see that a "stalling" problem was the subject of several posts. Has anyone had this issue resolved? Does it sound similar to my problem? I'd love to let the service dept know what has or has not worked for others.

Thanks

audia8q · November 2006

Has your problem happened 10x in the past 5000 miles or is it something recent? If it's something recent, you might have gotten some bad gasoline... just a thought.

lh180001 · November 2006

I can't remember exactly when I 1st noticed the sputtering engine problem. I initially thought the same thing, that maybe it was bad gas. However, the problem has recurred over time, with different tanks of gas from different gas stations. So at this point, I am inclined to think that gasoline is not the problem, unfortunately.

brodie2 · November 2006

Its not the gas - this is a PROBLEM with this car. I too had the same problem at least 15 times. Mazda eventually took my car back because I made a big fuss until they did. The day they took my car back the dealership finally told me that they had 6 other cars in the dealership with the same problem but Mazda doesn't know how to fix the problem. My best advice to you......... demand they fix it - print off all the postings and tell them they need to find a solution for you. This problem gets worse in the cold weather - my car stalled in the middle of an intersection in the dark - I was lucky I wasn't killed. Write letters to Mazda - keep records of everything and don't let them get away with this problem.

lh180001 · November 2006

brodie2,
what year was your car and how long ago did they take it back? I picked mine up yesterday from the dealership service dept. Service manager says they can't find a problem, but that Mazda is aware of a "stalling" problem caused by a purge flow issue. He says they are coming out with a PCM update in mid-December that will fix the problem. I guess I can give them until mid-december, but I am a little cynical and wonder if this is just a "stalling" technique (pun intended!!) on their part, to just get me out of the dealership and that hopefully I won't come back.

brodie2 · November 2006

My car was a 2004 - I fought with them for two years. It wasn't until I convinced them I was going to get killed in this car (since I also had a power surge problem where the car would just take off both in forward and in reverse without putting your foot on the gas peddle) They took the car back in June however, I heard that had something coming out in August -September - and nothing happened. My question to you is...... what if you do wait and this happens again, and you get into an accident.... then who's fault is it since Mazda knows there is a problem with your car - yet they let you drive away! How can they say there is nothing wrong with your car yet tell you there will be a fix shortly - obviously there is a problem - and obviously they are letting you drive away in an unsafe vehicle.

papa1958 · November 2006

I totally concur with dride. I also got the M3s and 16" wheels from Tirerack and was totally satisfied with the results. It is like night and day on snow and ice between the original 17" goodyears and the 16" winter M3s.

papa1958 · November 2006

I have a 2004 Mazda 3 and am having the problem that occasionally I get some combination of these problems: (1) radio/clock stops working; (2) trip odometer resets to zero; (3) remote entry/power door locks don't work. I know 04sweetness (#3075) and shel9 (#3017) had this same problem last winter. Can anyone tell me what is probably wrong and how to fix it?

zoomgirl · November 2006

so it gets worst in winter? i havent had the problem since the last time i went to the dealer to reconnect my mass air flow (mid september i think)...but im going on the theory that it has something to do with the humidity, in the morning specifically...that's the only time my car would stall. but now that the weather has been getting colder, i havent had it reoccur...so now im just waiting for next summer to go thru the many visits...maybe.

siobhanjohn · November 2006

I recently got the 2007 3S GT with xenon headlights. I am very happy with the car, but I find the adjustable low beam headlights are angled too low. I find this is the case even when the adjustment dial is set at the most superior position.

Does anyone know a way to angle the headlights higher?

Thanks.

conall · November 2006

Steering gear-box?
I have an "i" model also, but have heard no such noise.

conall · November 2006

My engine light came on again -
This will be the 2nd thermostat the dealer has to replace.
Anyone else have a similar experience? :confuse:

motoraway · November 2006

Hey all-

My wife and I recently bought a used 2004 Mazda 3 Hatchback (leather, sunroof, CD changer, Xenon options) and have a couple questions for anyone kind enough to respond. BTW - We've checked the forum archives but haven't seen anything corresponding exactly to...

We have the Xenon option and periodically the headlights will flicker. Doesn't seem to be any pattern to it. Sometimes it happens after driving for ten minutes or so. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Also, the right headlight Xenon will go out periodically, but then after the car is turned off and restarted, it comes back on. Is this a Xenon thing? A wiring thing? A headlight about to go out thing?

Also, I've read a number of posts related to brake grinding and other noises. Do the Mazda pads have the "wear indicators" found on other cars that give you an idea of when you really do need to get the pads replaced? To my ears from inside the vehicle, it sounds like the rear pads kind of rumble when braking and wondered if that was an indication of wear. There doesn't seem to be any substantial noise from outside the vehicle though. I'm guessing it could just be road noise but was curious what other owners thought.

Thanks all!

bigfur · November 2006

The headlight issue sounds to me like a wiring issue. Are you aware of any damage that may have occurred to the front end of the car before you owned it? Look at the area behind the lights to see if any of the wiring is damaged or dosent look right.

On a separate topic, have an 07 GT 4door 5-speed. When shifting i heard a weird clunking sound from what seems like below the drivers seat. Anyone had this issue before?

anm147 · November 2006

What year is your mazda? Mine is a 2007 and the light has come on twice in two months. They are replacing my emissions pump to fix the problem. I have only had the car two months so I hope this is not a similar problem that reoccurs often.

autonomous · November 2006

Also, I've read a number of posts related to brake grinding and other noises. Do the Mazda pads have the "wear indicators" found on other cars that give you an idea of when you really do need to get the pads replaced? To my ears from inside the vehicle, it sounds like the rear pads kind of rumble when braking and wondered if that was an indication of wear. There doesn't seem to be any substantial noise from outside the vehicle though. I'm guessing it could just be road noise but was curious what other owners thought

Mazda3 (and prior to that Proteges) have a known brake issue: the paads can lockup if rust develops. The remedy is to have your disc brakes periodically cleaned and lubricated. I have mine lubricated every 18 months and have been running on the same disc brakes for over 4.5 years (80,000 km / 50,000 miles)!

p.s. Lubricating your disc brakes is not particular to Mazda; it's recommended for anyone with disc brakes.

conall · November 2006

It is a 2004 with a 2.0 engine. It has only about 18k miles on it, though.
It is still the most fun-to-drive economy car I've ever driven.

z71bill · November 2006

I am not an expert on brakes - but have never heard of lubricating your brake pads - can you explain what this is?

I know when you replace the pads a very small amount of lube (high temp grease) is put on the spot where the caliper contacts the BACK of the brake pad - but this has nothing to do with the rubbing sound you hear when you stop.

My Mazda3 had the grinding rear brakes - when I stepped on the brake it sounded like I was dragging concrete blocks behind the car. I first had my car in for this problem in February 2004 was told it was normal - about 2 years later Mazda came up with a fix for the grinding problem - it was a new brake pad - but by this time my rotors were worn out and needed to be replaced.

Not sure why it took so long for Mazda to figure out that something was wrong - but the replacement pads and new rotors solved the problem.

ex_tdier · November 2006

MY dealer put something on my brakes, I can't recall the name of it...it prevented extra play in the calipers that caused clunking when backing up. I think it's something similar to anti-seize.

autonomous · December 2006

lubricating your brake pads

It's not the pads :surprise: but the brake mechanism that gets cleaned and lubricated, i.e. the brake calipers and sliders holding the pads. Sorry for the confusion

aspen4 · December 2006

I have an 2004 Mazda 3,with the automatic and
2.3 engine.
My Engine Light came on once. Took it to the deal-
er.Some sensor was bad. Never has a problem
since.
Brakes: Had lots of squeal and huge amounts of
dust on back wheels.Took the car in and they
replaced the pads. Now I am rid of the dust,
but they squeal worse. they squeal only in
cold weather,not when its warm. Anyone have an
answer?

Car has run perfect otherwise.Have about
16,000 miles on it.

sandman46 · December 2006

Our brakes make this noise usually in the morning when first backing out of the garage. We had the rear brake dust & grinding fixed with the new pads about 2 months after buying the car. Hate the noise, but still love the car. Looking to get new sneakers, as the wear bars are showing on the Toyos with close to 23k on the odo. The dealer seems to have very competitive prices on their tires also. Will be making a decision when we do the oil change @ 24k miles.

The Sandman

coosamtn · December 2006

I'm seriously considering buying a new Mazda3 next week and would appreciate some help with understanding the 3's "stalling problem". After sifting through numerous posts here describing a continuing Mazda3 stalling problem, I still can't get a handle on how broad an issue this is. Is it affecting only the 2.0, or the 2.3 engine, or both, 3's with manual tranny's, or automatic, or both? Has the problem has been resolved in the 07's or is it continuing? Has it been a problem with the Mazda6 as well? Thanks!

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