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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Bring it into the shop immediately; this is not something you can put off.

    Could be the brake fluid or a leak in the brake line or air in the brake system?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Were you driving with the wide open throttle (WOT) for a while? If so, you probably depleted the vacuum from the reserves, and there was no assist from the power brake booster. If you have MazdaSpeed3, then it uses different boost system.
  • BMW540BMW540 Member Posts: 33
    It's my sons car. I don't believe he was on it hard.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's something wrong with the power brake booster or the vacuum supply to it.
  • BMW540BMW540 Member Posts: 33
    Took the car to Mazda. They stated that the rear components were corroded rotors, Calipers etc. The right rear caliper was sticking and causing the problem and wearing out the pads. They asked if the car sits a lot and I told them of course not as it is a 2010 and has 60 K on it. They first said it needed new rotors and a caliper. I said, why can't we just turn the rotors? In the end, they agreed to that. I stated to them that this shouldn't happen, especially a caliper in California and could we get some help. They did what ever they could internally and said to call Mazda consumer help. By the way, their service mgr. said he had not seen this before either. I called Mazda and spoke to a rep. She was having computer problems but took all my info and told me the warranty was 36k. I said this is not a normal problem. She said she would get back to me. 4pm, I called her, she had lost my info, but did remember me. I had her call the dealer. They told the car needed a front brake job. Wrong, I said. Service mgr called her the next morning. and told her what the actual prob was.Then I received a dropped call from Mazda which I returned twice trying to contact her and left messages. Finally the third time they put me thru to her, she again said, wear and tear. And their is no supervisor to speak to. Not a good experience
  • fooshoofooshoo Member Posts: 4
    I am looking for a Mazda dealer that has a good and quick service department in Southeastern PA or Western NJ. Anyone have any recommendations?

    The dealer I purchased my car from has an atrocious service department, so I need to find a different place to have my car worked on. Having the car in the shop for a week just for a diagnosis of a very minor problem, and then a few more days just to have the vehicle fixed is unacceptable to me.
  • pezzy669pezzy669 Member Posts: 4
    scwmcan - not an anomaly.

    My 2010 2.5 GT has been extremely reliable and it was an early build of the new body style.

    2.5 years old (sat on dealer lot for 7 months before I snatched it up) with just over 34k miles.

    7 oil changes (1 extra break in oil change @ 2500 miles)
    1 air filter
    1 cabin filter
    2 remote batteries
    1 set of wiper blades
    1 set of tires

    Thats all she wrote. Total cost of above maintenance @ dealership (minus tires) over this time ~$485.00.

    Does have a few creaks when the temperature drops to 40 and below but other than that tight as a drum and besides for normal wear and tear you would still think it was a new car.

    Look forward to many more years with her.
  • pezzy669pezzy669 Member Posts: 4
    fooshoo:

    Try dealerrater.com - I have had good luck finding good dealerships with that site.
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    there's some puzzling "memory" problems, after DIY battery replacement on my 2010 Mazda3s GT Hatch this evening:
    -- I tried the owner's manual instructions for re-associating the Advanced (keyless) Keys with the Memory Power Seat positions (1 2 3) and it does not seem to work. Nor does the owner's manual instruction read quite the same way I recall the dealer salesman showing its setup on the day the car was new 3 years ago. Anybody remember?
    -- the auto-up and auto-down (2 switch clicks) on the driver door power window does not seem to work anymore; it now behaves just like the other 3 windows.

    Both these are real bummers for me, loving those gadgets. Who's got solution advice?

    thanks!
  • marockomolemarockomole Member Posts: 3
    Have 2005, 3, 5 door, has 125,000. When I would turn to the left or let off the gas ay slow speeds there would be a loud knocking, thinking it was something in the suspension or tire rods or ball joints. Further investigation I replace front struts also put new bushings and anything else that goes along with suspension. No more problems for about 2 months, then, after 2 days of steady rain and driving each day the knocking came back. Took it to a mechanic I deal with regular and he found a Tech Alert that said the is a problem with front wheel bearing getting dry and sometimes rusting and with no ;lubricant you will hear a binding or knocking noise. He said it is not recommended to use standard bearing grease because of the ABS. We put a spray lube on the bearings and the knocking seemed to go away for a short time (couple of hours)It was still steady rain all day. The bearings looked and felt fine.
    Any recommendations on how to resolve this issue.
  • spookydude13spookydude13 Member Posts: 1
    I bought the wrong drive shaft and spindle, it is off a non abs car, installed in on my car. Now my brakes are not braking any idea on what i can do?
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