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i.e. hauling heavy loads ect. or driving off road. It should be noted that the reardiff. breather rusted off around 23k. this Junk Wagon now has approx. 28K, I am starting to get MIL lights.
anybody have any clues? thanks
Sunday - started fine; went to leave a parking lot, and it just quit; sputtered for about 5 minutes, then it was like the fuel engaged and we were off...
Tuesday - husband got ready to take it to the shop to have it looked at and serviced and it did the same thing and then just would not start at all...
Has been in the shop since Tuesday: CAM(?) shaft sensor has been replaced...that wasn't it; crank shaft sensor has been replaced...that wasn't it...
HELP!! Any suggestions? Hauling it to local dealership tomorrow for them to look at it...
HOW ABOUT THE LEADS FROM THAT FUSIBLE LINK ON THE BATTERY ? NOT REAL SURE ON THIS, AS I DONT HAVE MY NEW FUSIBLE LINK IN YET, ITS ON ORDER LOL. BUT IT APPEARS THAT ONE SIDE OF THE LINK IS TO STARTER AND THE OTHER SIDE IS ACCESSORIES . FIRST CK THAT THE TERMINALS ARE CLEAN AND MAKING GOOD CONTACT, THEN HAVE SOMEONE CHECK VOLTAGE DRAW WHILE STARTING AT TERMINALS AND WIRES OFF THAT LINK TO STARTER , 19.1 VOLTS WHILE RUNNING IS EXTREAMLY HIGH SHOULD BE IN THE NEIGHBOR HOOD OF LIKE 14.1 MAX SOUNDS LIKE U HAVE LOW VOLTAGE GOING TO THE STARTER AND ALTERNATOR DUE TO A BAD CONNECTION , WHICH WOULD CAUSE IT TO CRANK SLOW AND OVER CHARGE TO BOOT . HOPE THIS HELPS
and brake shoes all being undersized which will cause brake pedal vibration. They also had issues with the brake booster and the VDC
( vehicle dynamic control) going out which will cause symptoms much like what you're describing. I'm surprised the dealer hasn't recommended to replace the booster yet (or have they?). We had a Nissan engineer out at our dealership a few years back and was showing us how the booster and VDC (vehicle dynamic control) failed on the Titans, Armadas and Infiniti's QX56's. There was a reprogramming for the VDC (vehicle dynamic control) unit but even after that, the boosters still ended up needed to be replaced. I would go back to the dealer and ask them about at least replacing your brake booster. The part itself can vary from around $230 to $320 depending on 2 or 4 wheel, tow package and trim level of vehicle. Labor shouldn't be more than 3 hours or around $300 depending on your dealer's labor rate. Replacing the brakes with a larger, more appropriate system and possibly the VDC (vehicle dynamic control) will be much more expensive. Hope this helped.
That says a lot about the company. Now imagine if Toyota tried that oh wait they did and got caught......
it's name. I replaced all rotors which I might add the Rear's only had a(1") wear pattern the Emerg. brake shoes were rusted from the metal they came out in two
pcs. I had to replace the front drive "U" joints RUSTED and BROKEN. Replace the
Diff. Breather. which I might add NISSAN reported on one of their insp.s but did nothing about. I have a picture file of the Rotors and "U" joints. I was informed by
the Dealership that my brake problems were caused by NON USE OF THE VEHICLE ??????????. The instructed to rate them as outstanding in regards to their
JOB PERFORMANCE!!!!!!!. I have paid for all repair and Parts. `The welding of the rusted Tail Pipe and the Turning? of the rear rotors I paid @ the dealership.
My 2004 Titan also just acted up. The vehicle would stall out after about 2 or 3 miles. After it sat for about an hour, if would start and run fine for a while. Eventually it would only start and run at about 100rpms then stall. The problem was the engine control module relay which Nissan has issued a recall on this week, 1-18-11. The dealers repair is free. I also thought it was the fuel pump but it wasn't. Good luck.