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Personally, I have been convinced by other consumers and experts over the years that snow tires far outperform even brand new 'regular' tires in snowy conditions. What I'm getting at is I do not see a brand-new set of Goodyear Assurance tires as a good solution to your snow woes.
Yesterday I helped close my hatch by pushing on the top using the side of my hand. To my surprise, I had made a 2-inch long shallow dent. Annoying!
Aluminum is great for weight savings but it should be thick enough for normal usage without damage...
when i make a left turn and then straighten out the car, the steering wheel sticks left at about 10 o'clock which isn't right.
let me know if this is the TSB, thanks!
I agree with you, the Maxx is way better than sedan. My Maxx is the best car I have ever owned, even with the few problems I've had.
I have made it a point to never close the hatch, by touching the outside surfaces. If you look under the bottom edge of the hatch when it is open, you will notice two indented pull down grips with a sand paper like coating. You just insert your hand in one of the cut-outs and pull down the hatch to close it. If you don't pull down hard or fast enough to completely close and latch the hatch. Open it again and pull it down again a little harder.
I just bought an '04 Malibu LT in November and got 4 new Michelin X-ICE 'ultra premium' winter tires. I bought the same 16-inch alloy rims that the Malibu LT comes with from New England Wheels. They sell OEM take-offs for a fraction of the price of a new rim. The alloys were more expensive than the steel wheels but I don't have to mess around with hub caps and they look much nicer...
We've had a couple of snow storms here in NorthEast CT and the Malibu was great in the snow. I felt very confident. My driveway is on a steep incline and I can stop at the top of my snow covered driveway, check the mail and then continue backing out onto the street with no wheel spin.
I'd certainly recommend going the winter tire on alternate wheel route. I just got rid of my Tundra double-cab 4x4 and while I miss the utlity of a 4-door pickup, I don't miss filling up the 26-gallon tank twice a week
Hmmmmmmm. Just so happens I have the lowly malibu sedan and a 99 caddie. To tell you the truth I dont see a huge difference when I get out of the crappy sedan and into the caddie. Must be something wrong with my caddie or you get a lot more bang for the buck with the Maxx. Get real! 73 Dodge Dart - That has got to be the dumbest statement ever made on this forum!
I also try __not__ to slam the hatch. That jolts all the trim and makes those fasteners squeek or chirp (putting tape over them has helped but the tape could be ground off over time).
Also the Maxx is pretty tightly sealed so one has to use less force closing the hatch if a window or door is open.
And the car is so air-tight, the hatch does require a pretty firm slam in order to close. The windows in our vehicles are typically fully rolled up.
I would gladly trade the chintzy lightweight aluminum hatch for a more durable steel version.
Additionally, I find the closing of this lightweight aluminum hatch to be light and firm...as are the doors..Solid and substantial. The adjustable shelf in the rear is also a plus when loading and unloading from the hatch. Like I said previously...I love this car.
Smooch Jack
I have the same problem with my 2001 Impala; paid 24K now Kelly Blue book is about 6K!! Between the extreme loss in value and the problems we have had with my wife's 2000 Malibu and my Impala, we are going Honda Pilot for me and Mazda RX-8 for my wife.
Do you know if GM has an official recommendation for changing the fuel filter. If so they should specifically mention this in the owners manual.
Thanks.
From what you indicate the vehicle starts up fine, correct?
Is vehicle parked on level ground?
1. There is something binding with the transmission shift cable or transmission shift linkage or shifter itself. I don't know much about what could be done in that case.
2. There is a something hung up on with the shift lock cable between ignition switch and shifter. This normally prevents shifting out of Park if ignition switch is in OFF position. It also prevents key from being removed if shifter not in Park.
3. The Brake-Transmission Shift Interlock solenoid is engaged and not releasing to allow you to shift from Park when you push on the brake pedal.
Only on the last item do I have a quick suggestion you could try yourself. It is covered in the owner manual (so you might have already tried it). Put you foot on the brake (esp. if not on level ground). Turn the ignition key to ACC position (not RUN) and see if the shifter can be moved out of Park to the Neutral position. If it can you can start vehicle in neutral.
First year cars are a risk. Yet the other two first year cars I've owned proved more problematic than the maxx - so far.
However, the wheelbase on the MAXX (112.3)is 6" longer than on the sedan (106.3). And I believe the rear suspension is slightly different on the MAXX. That difference could account for how each vehicle handles and feels.
The recurring problem that hasn't been fixed yet is a rear suspension squeak/creaking noise when going over any type of uneven terrain at 25mph or below. So far they've replaced the coil insulators and "deburred" the rear coils. They retorqued the front struts today and said there was still a noise. Here's the kicker. The dealership said it'd be 2 to 4 weeks to get new coils under warranty.
They said I could take the car and drive it until it comes in, but that means yet another trip to the dealership, plus what if 4 weeks turns into 8 or 12?? Hopefully the GM rep will come up with a better solution--I told the dealership I wasn't going to accept redelivery of the vehicle until it was finally fixed. I doubt they'll want to let me keep the Enterprise rental for a month either.
I have to do this every so often in LA, CA as our freeways have short entrance ramps and plenty of folks who love to accelerate / drive 90 mph while in the RIGHT_most lane.).
I did some number evaluations today. My tranny problems go something like this: Accelerate normally up between 30-35 mph. The RPM guage will drop down to 1500 rpms as if it is going into overdrive. Now let the car coast down to between 25-30 mph. When you see the rpm needle drop to 800 rpms, give it some gas. At this point, my car seems to be stuck in overdrive, and does not easily allow me to accelerate to a higher speed. After a 2 second sluggish period, the tranny will downshift to get me up to a higher rpm level and thus allow for acceleration.
What is odd, is that this same mph range is where most of my howling takes place. However, I don't believe replacing the drive sprocket and drive link will have an effect on the performance. Any thoughts out there?
way too much for me to digest....16K on my maxx and doing great....dont seem to have this problem...and I have a 17 Feb build date....did you get any of the reflash/reprogram done?
cheers and happy new year
For example- the 2003 Trailblazer we had with the 4-speed auto. I tended to drive that like an old man, nursing every last mpg out of it whenever possible. As a result, in a short period of time the transmission "learned" my driving style and seemed to act similar to your description of the Malibu, wanting to upshift earlier and hold higher gears longer (even on the few rare times I was more insistent with the throttle - it actually required a firm "flooring" of the peddle to cause downshifts much of the time).
If I let my wife drive it for a few days (heavier footed of the two of us), then went back to driving it to work myself, I found that it was holding lower gears to higher rpms, then downshifting much more quickly. This went on for a little while as the transmission readapted to my driving style.
I'd swear to God that this has been my experience. It also seems the same with the 2004 Silverado and 2004 Malibu we have now.
Pao: yes, I did have the PCM reflash for the upshift issue at highway speeds. Don't know if that affected my tranny's relationship with my engine. I think my service manager will see me Thurs. Not only will he hear the "howl", but I'm sure I can replicate the "overdrive" issue.
I have not noticed any undo howling sounds, so far, but will try maxx4me's suggestion. The dealer has supposedly done all the service programming upgrades (last of these was done about a month or so ago to fix engine idle).
E2helper, my apoligies if I asked this before but would my build be one of the suspect vehicles with a potentially bum tranny?
- when making complete left turns the steering wheel sticks left at 10 o'clock instead of centering and straightening out when the car straightens out. i manually have to straighten out the steering wheel.
- the car also pulls to the left at highway speeds when accelerating to pass someone up. that's also very weird....
- i still have the same problem on the car pulling to the left when accelerating/decelerating
- drifting left on highway speeds
i may be wrong but will tsb# 04-03-06-001 fix these problems? "vehicle leads/pulls characteristics and diagnosis"
What was also funny was that the VP of the dealership wanted to go on a test drive with me, but when I told him I want a malibu maxx there so we can test drive my car and then compare it with their car, he declined and cancelled the appointment. hmmmmm, makes you wonder right?
i already made an appt to have another take a look....will keep you posted.
Has anyone else found that plate to be complete JUNK?
Thanks.
Dean
Anyway, the dashboard logo on my Maxx seems to be sturdy (I've not tried jabbing it hard, but pressed it gently and it stayed in place).
My hatch struts will groan when in humid weather but otherwise seem ok (one of them had failed early in the car's life - was replaced).
Have noticed the driver seat tends to develop a nasty little bulge at the base of the seat back, as a result of using the lumbar support (which I thought was supposed to work farther up in the seat - not from the base of the seatback and up.).