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Chevrolet Malibu: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    You are correct, the site you are looking at brings up a history of calibrations for your VIN. Mr Bots is the owner of a Malibu sedan which has different calibrations for PCM due to a variety of things (fuel tank, transaxle ratio, weight). You have a Maxx and so when you look up your VIN you see different stuff.

    The site isn't smart enough to report what your vehicle was built with so I believe it provides entire history back to earliest production to latest available.

    I am now waiting for someone to ask "what site"? ;)

    However I would prefer it if someone else posted web address if Edmunds OK with it

    Regards :)
  • markf57markf57 Member Posts: 38
    Mr. Bots -

    Where do you live? My Maxx suffered a lot of hail damage last week also in Colorado. I also didn't get any glass breakage. I'm curious how much your estimate was to repair.
  • francijaifrancijai Member Posts: 10
    The GM calibration website is listed in post 1901, along with that is what I found to be some helpful information on why our early maxx's can rough idle. Which helped me to not be so disturbed by the idle issue. I originally posted about a persisting rough idle even after a pcm reflash. I took delivery of this vehicle only a week ago, after I had asked the dealership to address the rough idle, tranny howl, and left pull. I now have a better understanding of the rough idle, and when I filled up the tank I put in premium (93) gas which has also seemed to help. My mpg for the first tank (dealership provided) was 19 mpg. Yikes! However 90% of this being city miles. I had the sprocket and link assembly redone for the tranny howl and it is quieter and shifting is seamless. The other issue I had addressed has the harsh left pull. I am wondering if any of you can provide more info on this dilemma. Initially, the left pull was immediate and drastic at either low or high speeds. I provided the dealership with the tsb for this problem, and apparently they applied that to the problem, However this is what I am experiencing now: Steering is dead on at 40-45mph or lower (yet the steering wheel always look slightly skewed to the right) yet, at highway speeds the left pull seems to be even more intense than the original problem. Any ideas??
  • mr_botsmr_bots Member Posts: 236
    I'm pretty sure I'm not the earliest buyer, just one of the earliest builds. I actually got it last June, so I haven't even had it a year. Also, I live in southeastern New Mexico where our 96 S10 got totalled by hail about 3 weeks ago, but the windshield in it got busted up pretty bad (it was about 30 miles north of my Malibu where it didn't hail at all that day). The estimate for paintless removal was $1500, but I'm going to wait a few weeks for the sun to bake some of them out before I take it in to get fixed.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    I just returned from the mountains of PA. I got 30 mpg on hilly highways with the AC on and speeding. I also got 30 coming back through NJ going 75-80 mph.
  • davismaxxdavismaxx Member Posts: 33
    The steering wheel being off center can be corrected just by doing a proper alignment. Then make sure they re-calibrate the handwheel sensor using the scan tool so it still goes straight.

    If there is no pull (lead) at lower speeds, but it pulls at higher speeds, suspect a bad tire. If you swap the left and right front tires and the pull changes to a right pull, it's definitely a tire.
  • daisygrldaisygrl Member Posts: 1
    Hello! I hope you all can help me, as this is getting extremely frustrating!

    I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu, 6 cylinder and I love my car! I bought it at 40k miles and I now have 95k miles on it..pretty much all highway miles with no problems..until now.

    Well, a few months ago, I did have a intake manifold leak and I got it fixed, no problem. I have noticed, even before I got the manifold fixed, that my car tends to scoot when I am stopped at a red light. It only does it every now and then, but when it does, it's extremely annoying as my car literally moves...almost feels like it's trying to take off when I'm stopped but it only does it when it's in Drive, at a red light, on occasion. *shrugs* This has got me thinking that it may be the fuel injecters..as well as what happens with my car, down below.

    Also, when I go to accelerate, say, on the highway..going from 35 on the onramp to 55 to keep up with the flow of traffic, my car will scoot back and forth, back and forth as I'm pushing on the peddle to go faster, and then it will finally go faster after about 10 seconds of doing this back and forth thing. What is up with that? My father seems to think it's the fuel injecters? If it is the fuel injecters, about how much do think it would cost to repair this?

    I do know that it's time for a tune up, spark plugs and all, and I'm planning on doing this tomorrow (Monday) and my husband is also replacing my water pump this weekend. Do you think it could need a tune up and not an injecter problem?

    Thanks so much for any help you can give me, I truly appreciate it!
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    but-- you seem to be describing a computer problem and not plugs or injectors. Did you get the dealer to read the codes?
  • kurtamaxxguykurtamaxxguy Member Posts: 677
    ...as mine now does. finished two long freeway trips, 23K miles on car, now brakes vibrate/pulse when applied.

    I suspect either the morons who rotated the tires tightened them so much they warped the rotors, or else the rotors have begun wearing badly.

    I have read Mailbu brakes are prone to trouble. Looks like it's comming true for me.

    thanks, e2, for notes on trans. I'll have to find a service station that will lift my car up so I can read the date stamped on the transmission.
    And at this point I'm about ready to give up on Chevy dealer service in S.Calif.
  • lotusjaylotusjay Member Posts: 17
    My Maxx did the same thing during and after an interstate trip, but then gradually the 'problem' went away. The rotors have fewer that 6K miles on them, and they are smooth at the moment. They certainly don't cope well with heat, though.
  • 04ss04ss Member Posts: 5
    Definitely a "dealership version". I'll try to figure out how to post some pics...true dual exhaust...spoiler is mounted on the trunk (like all the others). Actually looked at the title and it doesn't specify a model like all other Ky vehicles do. Trade in will go back to them, I've only bought the last 6 cars from them, so I don't think they were doing anything shady...I just didn't pay enough attention. Again, thanks for all the help. I'll let you know when I figure out how to post pics.
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    if yuo want to email them to me..will post on my maxx website...would love to see what they did for a true dual exhaust....the spoiler mounted above the rear window or below it on the deck lid...if above...are you having problems keeping the rear window clean.....since you dont have a rear window wiper?
  • sgr5516sgr5516 Member Posts: 163
    e2, Is there any way for the dealer to check the accuracy of the odometer? When I drive the NJ GSP, for every 10 mi driven (using the mile markers), my Maxx registers 10.2 mi. :confuse: That is equal to 200 extra miles per 10,000 miles driven. Car now has 15.5K miles on it and tires are inflated to correct pressure. I've checked my 3 other cars along the same stretch of the GSP and their odometers match the mile markers.

    This concerns me, as the overstated mileage on the odometer would make the actual mpg calculation appear to be higher than it actually is. Is also means the warranty will run out before the actual miles are driven.

    Thanks
  • ssmaxxssmaxx Member Posts: 13
    http://photos.yahoo.com/dwaynessmaxx hi guys sorry havent posted in almost a year but i do read when ever i can the car is running great and still burns rubber. Its little qwerks seem to work themselves out most of the time.old pics
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    Here is a portion of a document dealer has on this subject. Likely they will tell you something along these lines:

    "Even though there is not a federal regulation pertaining to odometer accuracy, some states do have specific laws. Generally, a tolerance of plus or minus 4% is allowed, ..."
  • ericw55ericw55 Member Posts: 53
    My '04 Maxx had the pull to the left. :( Visit one had the air pressure in tires corrected, and tires rotated. :mad: Visit two had the alignment checked. Visit three had the steering and torque zeroed. :sick: Still pulled. On visit four, they swapped left and right front tires, and the pull is gone. :) The service writer suggested that tires sometimes have memory. Could it be that zeroing out the steering corrected the problem, but the tire had "memory" of the pull? :confuse:
    Any thoughts are welcome.
    PS. The only other fix, per the TSB, is to over correct the cross camber. This involves removing the bolt that connects the strut to the frame, and filing the hole. I have until 7,500 miles (currently at 6000) to see if the pull comes back, and I want to do this. That is their window for alignment work under warranty.
  • lotusjaylotusjay Member Posts: 17
    It sounds like the tires had the pull in them to start with. 'Lateral Force' or the tendency for a tire to pull to a side rather than roll straight, isn't unusual. Apparently after the rotation (probably just front-to-rear) and the left-right front tire swap the lateral forces in the tires were equalized.

    Do an Internet search for 'GSP 9700' or 'StraightTrak' for more on this subject. It would be senseless to modify the car to suit the tires, then have the problem recur after a tire rotation or replacement.

    It makes you wonder how often this grief could be avoided just by swapping tires left-to-right.
  • crosby1crosby1 Member Posts: 23
    I don't like the idea of a fuel filter in the gas tank of my 04 Maxx. Would this location not make replacing the fuel filter very labor intensive? Is there a way to put an another fuel filter in the fuel line so I wouldn't have to change the one in the tank as often?
    thanks
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    Most fuel system contaminants probably get into your car through the gas tank, so the filter in the tank would catch it first, regardless of other filters further down the line.
  • crosby1crosby1 Member Posts: 23
    Kurtamaxxguy:
    The build date on my Maxx is March 2004. How do I know if my vehicle has the upgraded door trim to protect in side impact. Would my VIN number hold the key to the answer?

    "#1762 of 1928 airbags by kurtamaxxguy Apr 03, 2005
    very true on mailbus with airbags. But Even with, torso protection is only marginal (in march '04, door trim was apparently changed to improve this - I learned about it at the GM clinic, and was told, sadly, no retrofit is avaiiable for older '04 malibus)."
  • sunshineguysunshineguy Member Posts: 1
    HELP! My father who is a mechanic and I just replaced the Caliper's, Rotors and Pads on the Front Brakes. The rear brakes have about 20,000miles left on them before they need to be done. After doing all the replacements we bled the system twice but the pedal is still "going down" to far and feeling quite spongy more so than before we replaced all the worn out parts. We bled the brakes as much as we could, probably ran about a quart of fluid through the system with no air coming out and no improvement in the pedal. Has anyone heard of this or know what to do?

    Thanks :confuse:
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    If the master cylinder was drained of fluid and sets at an angle, the master cylinder needs to be removed and bench bled level. :)
  • gussygussy Member Posts: 1
    Parts Needed. Where Can I Find Them?I have a 2001 Malibu LS that was involved in a hit and run accident. Both my front and rear doors are destroyed. I need both doors. I also need a headlight clip for my left headlight. My passanger side mirroe is gone too, and I need one of those (glass only-the casing is fine). PLEASE HELP ME!!! :(:(:(
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    Had to meet my wife at her Dr's office yesterday so I could take the kids while she had her appointment. Got into the passenger side of the car for a minute to talk to her and noticed that the right side of the HVAC had a spot of white on it (thought it was dirt or something at first). This is an '04 Malibu LT with the auto climate control, and the exact area I'm talking about is the round projection surrounding the vent position knob. The part that has the white vent position pictures on it that are backlit with the instrument cluster at night. The spot I saw was on the immediate right outer edge of this area. When I attempted to wipe off the spot it started to get a bit bigger (tried a bit too hard, and only made the problem worse). After this I realized that the black is just a surface layer over some sort of white material underneath. Looking closer at the right side projection there is also a tiny spot under the knob that looks almost like a dust mote that is the same.

    This brings to mind the recent issues many have reported with the black wearing off of steering wheel controls in the trucks or off of the stereo buttons themselves.

    The car only has about 15k miles on it, and is about 18 months old. So it's still under warranty. I'm going to have the wife take it in for service, but I'm dreading a "normal wear and tear" response. I had that same response with the 1997 Malibu when it was 6 months old and the carpet fibers started coming out. That one nearly took an act of Congress to get GM / the VA dealership to fix it at their cost. This despite my pointing out that the vehicle I had traded for the Malibu was 4 years old at the time and had perfect carpet in it, showing how well I take care of my vehicles. If the trade had good carpet after four years, surely that Malibu should last at least six months before looking worse.. (the trade in was a 1994 Geo Tracker, ironically enough bought at the SAME dealership.)

    Wish me luck.. :(
  • malibu29malibu29 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2005 Malibu LS and have noticed that when I open the windows (no sunroof) that the Rear Panel (with the speakers attached) vibrates horribly (especially as speed increases). I had this panel replaced and it continues to happen. This not only affects the vibration of the entire panel, but also the sound when listening to the radio/CD. Has anyone else encountered this issue and if so, how was it fixed?
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    nothing on the interior..but I have noticed some wear on the black rear pillar...but I can only blame this on wear and tear as well....and probably something hitting it....as it does appeared scrapped......24K and 16 months old here..but still love the car
  • southcarolinasouthcarolina Member Posts: 19
    I noticed that one of the radio buttons had something white on it. I guess it's really white with something black on it. And the black is coming off.
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    Yep. The side of the HVAC looks like it might have been lightly scraped (it's on the very edge between the front and the side surfaces of that round area). The only thing is that the car rarely has a passenger in it and for the driver to do it would be extremely odd due to the area that the white is showing through facing away from the driver.

    As far as the buttons go- I didn't realize that the HVAC control panel faces were made the same way as the buttons seem to be: basically some sort of white material that lets light pass through with a black opaque coating over the top leaving white exposed for lettering / symbols to show through at night. If it would be more durable I guess this wouldn't bother me so much, but when it starts wearing off in under a year GM might want to have a chat with their supplier (or if it's because of a GM design spec, maybe rethink the design itself). This just looks bad on a relatively new car.
  • mr_botsmr_bots Member Posts: 236
    My Malibu seems to be having more trouble then ever on not starting. It wasn't much of a problem, because from time to time it wouldn't start on the first try, but on the second try it started right up. Well now it seems like every time I get in it, it takes 4 or 5 tries to get it to start. Also, once Wednesday and once yesterday it refused to start at all, I tried 5 times (knowing this was hard on the starter) no start, let it sit for 10 minutes and tried again 4 times to no avail. The temps are over 100 every day now, but it made it through last summer with no problems. I hate to take it to the dealer because they won't be able to reproduce it, and then they'll just give me a crap excuse like they did when I took it in for the cruise control sticking in 3rd when hitting resume. Also, I hate to tell them to just update the PCM calibration, as there is no way to really tell if they updated it.
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    mr_bots,

    :(

    I really recommend you take to dealer to have them update your PCM calibration. Your vehicle is early 2004 build so you are likely 2 versions out of date and last version (per GM Calibration site) did this:

    New calibration.....improvements for starting, idle quality, and shift stabilization affecting 3-4 upshift.
  • montebumontebu Member Posts: 10
    Welcome to the club! I've also experienced this problem. Putting the rear windows down more than a quarter of their travel, either one at a time or both together, produces a fluctuating sound and pressure wave that actually hurts my ears. I almost reported this to the service department, but thought this would be one of those problems better left alone. I really don't trust new car service departments. I did stuff some towels around the edges of the panel ( as a test ). It reduced the noise some, but not entirely.
    I just don't put the windows down more than a quarter of the way.
  • montebumontebu Member Posts: 10
    My 2005 LS V6 has the same problem. Mine seems to be off about 4%. Drive 100 miles and the odometer registers 104. The service department rep gave me the GM bulletin describing the problem. They didn't seem to want to deal with it. On the invoice was typed "CONDITION DESCRIBED IS OPERATIONAL CHARACTERISTIC OF THIS VEHICLE". Sure. I want to do a little more research before I take the car back to the dealer. Unless someone else has had this problem and it was corrected.
    The other problem I'm having is the fuel economy function on the DIC is overstating my mpg by 1.5 to 2.5 miles per gallon. Anybody think that these two problems could be connected?
  • southcarolinasouthcarolina Member Posts: 19
    The mpg function is overstated almost 1.5 miles on my 04 but the miles to empty function is understated by 50 miles or so. Neither bothers me, though, because my Ford Explorer didn't have an operational fuel gage. I'm just happy knowing how much gas I have in the tank.
  • ericw55ericw55 Member Posts: 53
    E2, I have an '04 Maxx, last 6 of VIN 243675. Where am I at with PCM calibration? GM calibration website doesn't give dates.
    As always,
    Thanks.
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    Your vehicle looks to have been built in early June 2004, right near end of 2004 model year.

    So it has the last major update that has been talked about in forum. It doesn't have the VERY last one which was only related to fuel gage operation. I think you already had work done in that area on your vehicle to address that, however ;)
  • ericw55ericw55 Member Posts: 53
    Thanks. You are correct about the fuel gauge work, O wise one. I had my tank replaced. Is GM now addressing the gauge not reading full with a PCM upgrade, as opposed to a fuel tank replacement?
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    That is a good question - one which I also had. I guess I will need to ask ;)
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    (PZ 5w30-- almost went with synthetic but the II+ base stocks in PZ are exceptional-- put in a mediocre ST filter rather than a bad fram), Anyway the tech noted that I have an oil leak near the rear (transmission?) seal. Definitely not losing or burning oil, and I may have one small spot on my garage floor but I'm not even sure it's oil-- anyway, guess my next change will be at the dealer where I can have them look at it.

    Anyone have leaking experience with a low mileage engine? Sometimes Wal-Mart techs get carried away with their own importance, although the dealers don't use the sharpest tacks for oil changes and at least WM doesn't pull the battery out of your car like some quick change places.
  • ashkenashken Member Posts: 2
    I'm glad to read your message, although I wish you had a solution to your problem. I have a '98 Malibu that has been giving me "starting issues" for about a year now. What you describe happens to me quite frequently; my "theft system" light comes on and when that is on I usually have to wait about 15-20 minutes until it goes off to be able to start my car. I live in Florida and that's no fun. I don't know what the deal is but I'm really pissed off. My car is doing some other things as well that I don't think a car that young should be doing. I'm very, very unimpressed with my Chevrolet, and will certainly never purchase another one again.

    If you have any advice please let me know.
  • sschribersschriber Member Posts: 89
    That fluctuating pressure wave is not unique to the Malibu. All of my cars since I remember have done this. Just ask my kids how fast they get a reaction from the front seat passengers when they drop their windows. Thank god for the rear lockout on electric windows...
  • ashkenashken Member Posts: 2
    I do have this very same problem...almost everyday...but how can it be resolved? That's what I want to know....
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    Actually if you have a 1997-2003 Malibu you do have a "security system". It is a vehicle anti-theft system called PASSLock II. When this system detects an invalid start attempt it goes into a 10 minute lockout time which is likely what you are experiencing.

    Unfortunately I don't know enough about the system to give you any suggestions on what type of issue you may be having though. :(
  • kurtamaxxguykurtamaxxguy Member Posts: 677
    e2, I am curious if you can shed light on what kind of electrical connectors the Malibu uses.
    I.e., what kind of metal (tin, phosphor bronze, etc) ? also, are the exterior molex connectors sealed?
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    I believe you have mentioned this subject before, Kurt ;)

    Connector terminal plating varies. There are a lot of connectors in the vehicle, as you know.. Standard fare is for terminals to be tin-plated but quite a few connectors have gold-plated terminals. I am not familiar with anything that has phosphor bronze and probably my description of stuff as simply "tin" or "gold" is really not technicially correct.

    Almost all of the connections you find underhood, inside door or on front/rear lighting are sealed.
  • kurtamaxxguykurtamaxxguy Member Posts: 677
    thanks e2. I may have mentioned topic once but not sure I ever got a response. will do best to remember the info this time. ;)

    when I worked at GM, we once had an area for the smokers who used computers, the latter of which used tin plated connectors for memory and other innards. All the computers failed within a year, due to terminal corrosion due to the garbage from the cigs. The smoking policy was changed (outside only) and we no longer had computer corrision problems.
  • davismaxxdavismaxx Member Posts: 33
    Hi there. I'm taking our Maxx in tomorrow to have the steering checked. There is a loose, clunky feel to it when going over bumps. I have a TSB # 04072004 for this. Is that a valid number? Do you know what it says?

    Other than that, the car is doing great. We keep discovering neat features. Did you know that the wipers revert to intermittent when stopped, then return to the set speed when you get going?

    Davismaxx
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    davismaxx,
    I don't recognize that number as a valid TSB# but guess I could be wrong. Typically the format of a number would be xx-xx-xx-xxx (9 digits). I think the first 2 digits are for year. I am not sure about the rest. Closest I could come to your complaint would be TSB#04-02-35-009 but I don't know if it really applies but a better number than the one you have

    The windshield wipers do have a feature where the intermittent delay varies by vehicle speed (increasing speed reduces time between wipe cycles).
  • davismaxxdavismaxx Member Posts: 33
    I got that number off the NHTSA/DOT website--you can look at all the TSBs for any car there. But I'll give the dealer both that number and yours and we'll see what we get.

    Thanks,

    davismaxx
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    Oh yeah, I forgot about that site. Anyways I looked on NHTSA site and it has the same title as one I gave you. The NHTSA/DOT site is using the wrong number. Looks like they have a made up number based on "their" date of bulletin (April 07, 2004 = 04072004) ;)

    Not sure why they would do that but the number I gave you would be more recognizable by a dealer. The date on that bulletin is May 24, 2004.

    good luck :shades:
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