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Chevrolet Malibu: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    Took my wife's car to the dealership last Friday to let them see the spot on the HVAC control head and they ordered up a new part with no hassles at all (starting to really love this dealership). While it was there I mentioned the hard start issues we had a month or two ago (no recent experience), 3-4 shift issue, and rough idle when the car is warm. They finally reprogrammed with the latest update (tried to tell them to do this when we had it in for the hard start thing before, but the last service tech claimed they couldn't find a problem and that there wasn't any update). Anyway, car runs smooth again, and idle seems better.

    Did I mention I'm really happy with this dealership? :)
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    Jerry,

    think you are one of the lucky ones that has found a competent service department...I honestly beleive this is 99% of GMs problem....the poor service after the sale....and the seemingly incompetent service techs.....LISTEN and READ GM.....get your field reps out there.....educate the service departments!!!!
  • kurtamaxxguykurtamaxxguy Member Posts: 677
    you can visit the Bob Lutz blog on the web and tell the honchos the same thing, but they don't seem to listen. GM just keeps falling back on the tired old "independent businessman" model for dealers - and for me it is really killing any future interest in their products..
  • rwmorganrwmorgan Member Posts: 1
    Any fix on keeping the sunroof shades from flapping open when you open the windows?
  • silver03silver03 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Malibu that makes the exact noise when turning left or right. I have had it to the dealership numerous times with no solution found. All GM can say is it is a noise and basically live with it. My Malibu has 36000 miles and started popping at about 30000 miles. I have had the bushings replaced and looked at over and over. I am beginning to think this is a noise I will have to learn to live with, because GM is not coming up with any answers. I have always been a GM customer, and I can tell you I will not buy another GM product. My last vehicle was a Sunfire GT, the one before a Monte Carlo, and so on. NO MORE GM!!!!!!!!!
  • gmaxxgmaxx Member Posts: 10
    The black is coming off my 2004 Maxx's radio volume knob and has been since around 19,000 miles. The black has also come off on part of the black rear window pillars. My service tech looked at the window pillars and sent me to their body shop. We both thought the paint shop would repaint them if anything. Surprise! They are facade panels and are easily replaced, which the dealer did under warranty. I think that most any car washes with firm cloth or chamois-like brushes would have taken off the finish of the originals, and I am not going to use a mechanical car-wash again.
  • gmaxxgmaxx Member Posts: 10
    I have had multiple small problems with my 2004 Maxx LT. The first was with the rear sun-screen curtains, which popped open in hot weather. Then the transaxle made an annoying irregular whining noise when under a slight pull at around 23 mph. The brakes made a noise when applied moderately at speeds over 50 mph (They sounded like suddenly running over rough pavement, and had a tactile sensation similar to driving on such pavement being transmitted through the brake pedal). There was intermittently a slight clunking noise when turning and going over the slight bump of a "driveway" entrance. The right rear seat reclining lever also broke.

    They solved my brake and transaxle noises during a second attempt at repairing the problem (They had first replaced a rotor, after turning the original, and also replaced some transaxle parts). The second time they replaced brake and more transaxle parts. After the dealer's extensive searching for a TSB , I returned several weeks later when a fix for the rear sun screens was found and the required "stiffeners" came. These were replaced without removing the headliner (as GM had recommended). This seems to have fixed it the problem. When the rear seat lever broke they managed to get the seat back in the upright position and I returned later for installation when the repair part came in. The clunking noise revealed some loose struts, which were tightened.

    For the most part, since all this, my Maxx has been running and handling well.

    My dealer, Edwards Chevrolet in Birmingham, has always been courteous, listened patiently to me about my problems, and made me feel that whatever my problem, it was theirs too, until solved. I live 50 miles from my dealer, and the travel has been very inconvenient, but My dealer's service department has been my advocate, and worked with me and helped with transportation when I had to leave the car for several days. Since the car's newness did not provide a long history of problems and solutions, I think they really researched my problems and did their best. It was raining when I took the car for the last repair. When I went to pick it up there was a 20 minute delay. When I went to get in the car, I noticed that it had been washed. I asked the Asst. Service manager about it. He said, When I went to get it for you, It was dirtier than I wanted to return it to you." A good dealer is sometimes hard to come by, but I am happy with mine, and the drive has been worth it.

    I do not feel that GM did sufficiently testing for potential problems before releasing the first edition of the Maxx. However, If my problems are basically solved, then the car now seems to be what I hoped for when I bought it. (Good ride, excellent handling, comfortable, quiet, good leg room, well-equipped, versatile, and great gas mileage...33 - 35 mpg on any sustained trip.)

    I have noticed recently, after rotating the tires, some torque-steer to the left under strong acceleration, but I think it it may be a characteristic which I have experienced before on another vehicle shortly after tire rotation. I am going to go to my local tire dealer, in whom I have confidence, and have them check this out, as I think it is tire-related. I have not determined uneven wear, but having come from a tire-business family background, I am aware that the rotation, and my noticing of torque-steer beginning in such close time-proximity is probably more than coincidence.
  • kurtamaxxguykurtamaxxguy Member Posts: 677
    Very similar to my experiences, save my dealers can't find a TSB to save their lives. My brakes have also developed the problem you mention and will be going to the dealer for fixing in a week or so.

    GM has a sad history of rushing cars to market without completing them. The Maxx is no exception.
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    anybody had a front end alignment done on the Maxx yet..with the electronic steering.....not sure I have confidence in just anyone to do this....hit a pretty good size pothole..here in NOVA....thankyou 495 construction!!!....hard enough to bend the custom rim..so that will need to be replaced..on visible tire damage..but will have it inspected on Mon when I order a new rim...car doesnt pull..left or right...or under acceleration..but would still like to have the alignment checked..since the rims have new tires as well......any suggestions!!!
  • dixon2dixon2 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 LS, and of late i've noticed my fuel gauge works from the full tank mark to 1/4 tank mark. When fuel level get to around the 1/4 mark it to almost full tank mark. I ran out of gas recently to my surprise the gauge was showing full, am now relying on the trip meter to guess how much i have left. Anything I can do-myself; with the fuel sending unit as ii suspect this is the issue?
  • silverfishsilverfish Member Posts: 2
    Any one know the fuel pressure is on 2002 malibu during idle and what it should be at higher rpm?
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    pao: I just got back from the dealer. I'll have to report back tomorrow on whether the new strut silenced the squeeking. It is soooo bloody hot here today that I had the AC blasting real loud.
    As for the alignment, they had to do one for me after replacing the strut. I asked the service manager about your question and he said that the alignment (even with the electric steering) is no big deal, and that any place can do it. He did recommend however, that the shop have a modern machine. He says the new machines actually tell the mechanic what to do (toe, camber, etc) and how far.....no more guessing.
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    hey appreciate it..I have a favorite NTB..one that honestly does a good job..and I have one mechanic that knows me that usually gets my car.....so I trust his work....will have them check it..when they install the new rim..ordered it today.....damn potholes!!
  • josephusjosephus Member Posts: 32
    Wow....I thought it was just my ears.

    I noticed that with my 05 LS. I can't drive with the rear windows down--it is literally deafening.

    Where is this noise coming from? Not sure what the rear seat panel is exactly.

    Joe
  • rummy1439rummy1439 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 97 Malibu 4 cyl, and recently I've noticed that it vibrates very roughly when I am in any forward moving gear at a stop (Drive, 3rd, etc.) This does not happen when I am in reverse or neutral, but occasionally occurs when it is in park. The vibration doesn't occur while I'm driving only when I'm at a stoplight or something. It is obviously coming from the engine and rattles through the entire car, very annoying!! Not sure what the problem is, any ideas? Also, when I turn on the A/C and stop, the car vibrates even more. Any help would be appreciated! :cry:
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Check the motor mounts, you most likely have a worn one or two. :)
  • kurtamaxxguykurtamaxxguy Member Posts: 677
    I have had same problem if both rear windows are opened exactly the same amount. Sets up some kind of air resonance/buffeting - very hard to take for long..

    general ventilation workaround is to open one front, and one opposite side window on rear.

    If you want real air torrent, open windows on just one side of the car.
  • ctlmbctlmb Member Posts: 4
    A few years ago, I helped my in-laws purchase a new 1999 Chevy Malibu. Five weeks ago, my father-in-law went to drive the car, and he noticed the front passenger side of the Malibu was lying on the ground. After having the car towed to the dealership, they said the passenger side front suspension spring was broken, but since the car was out of warranty (it has 109,600 miles), my in-laws would have to pay for the fix. My in-laws take the Malibu into the dealership for regular maintenance, and they never noted any problem with the suspension. They said the car must have hit a rock or something, although everyone we've talked to said it would take more than a rock to break a front suspension spring, and if it did, why didn't it break the spring at the moment of impact?

    My father-in-law then asked the service department to take a look at the other spring, and they said it was fine. Earlier this week, my mother-in-law went to get into the car, and the car was lying on the ground again, but this time, it was the driver's side suspension spring that was broken! My in-laws live in Georgetown, Massachusetts, and my mother-in-law had driven out to Shrewsbury (a little over an hour drive) with my wife and kids. My mother-in-law had planned to drive back home that morning when she noticed the front of the car on the ground. I keep thinking of what would have happened to the passengers of the car if the either spring had failed while it was moving on the highway. My father-in-law called the dealership in anger and demanded them to tow the car back to the dealership in order to fix the spring that they said was fine. But they said no, so since my in-laws need their car, they had it towed to a local dealership in Shrewsbury to have it fixed.

    My concern at this moment is that GM received a set of defective springs, and that they're on the verge of failure with 99 Malibus hitting the 100,000 mile mark. Both of the broken suspension springs have been saved so that someone could make an analysis of why they broke. My in-laws have also saved the bills from both repairs. At this point, what is their best course of action in order to receive compensation from GM and/or the dealership since I believe a catastrophic failure of such an essential component to a car, with only a little over 100,000 miles on it (mostly highway), is simply unacceptable and dangerous.

    It's sad since my in-laws loved their Malibu when they first purchased it (my father-in-law has been a Chevy man his whole life), but between the brake problems with the car, other repair issues, and now the double suspension spring failure, they're ready to make their next car a Toyota.
  • pourlemeritepourlemerite Member Posts: 7
    e2helper,

    There is a sharp left turn I make on my way to work everyday. Before making the turn, I slow down my 2004 Maxx LT to about 10MPH and begin to accelerate as I come out of the turn to get up a slight hill. This always causes my car to hesitate for a moment. Would a PCM upgrade correct this problem or do I need to take this turn a bit differently? I do not go around this turn fast, which wouldn't be possible even if I wanted to. I never had this issue with my two previous cars, so I don't think I am taking the turn improperly. The car's mileage is 12,700 and has never had a PCM upgrade since I purchased it a year ago.

    Although I have given you my VIN and build date before, here they are again:

    1G1ZU64814F224114 - May 4, 2004

    Thanks!
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    pourlemerite: I'm betting it is the tranny. That is my build date too. I'm assuming you have not had the new tranny parts put in to silence the howling noise? I also wonder if your mph is really around 20 and not 10; here's why. I first took my car in for the same problem. I was astonished that this transmission does not automatically downshift when the speed gets so low. My Service Manager stated that since the car does not know if you are coming to a stop, or will want to accelerate after slowing down, the tranny does not try to find a lower gear to accomodate the pending acceleration. You are then left with a tranny which is in too high a gear (4th let's say) to handle the speed range you are in (2nd). Although my Service Manager stated that the new tranny parts would only silence the howl, and would have no effect on performance, I believe it did help the performance slightly; not fixed, but helped. I do not notice the transmission "grumbling" at low speeds as much, as I try to accelerate after a decrease in speed for traffic or a turn. As many of us have stated here before, it makes us wish there was an overdrive off button on the side of the stick (common in many cars these days) to help the car up hills or when driving in slow speed conditions.
    Secondly, I also get a hesitation when I stomp on my gas pedal to get the tranny to downshift. It is not the most seamless tranny, although a pretty darn good one nonetheless.
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    You didn't need to post VIN (esp whole thing) again, I have a good memory ;)

    Anyways I think maxx4me's real world similar experience was a great response!

    As far as calibrations, your vehicle is a late 2004 model build and originally got the calibration that many others have updated to. Per the GM calibration website it (link posted in an earlier thread by someone else) there looks to have been 1 later PCM update which was specifically for a fuel gage not reading full complaint. I thought you might have had some complaint on fuel gauge in the past?
  • mr_botsmr_bots Member Posts: 236
    A little off topic, but to lock out overdrive just put the shifter in "L" and make sure it says "3" in the instrument cluster. The transmission will then not go into overdrive until you put it back into "D". Others just don't include the one gear under overdrive on the gear shift lever. For example, in a 4 speed auto GM lists 123D, Toyota or Honda just do 12D, therefore to get to 3rd you have to put it in D and hit the O/D off button, and in a GM you just put it in 3.
  • pourlemeritepourlemerite Member Posts: 7
    Thank you for your reply, maxx4me. Once the summer heat had ended last year, the tranny howl in my car became miniscule. In fact, I don't hear it at all anymore. Maybe I have just gotten used to it, or the howl reminds me of a similiar howl that was present in the '69 Impala my Dad drove for many years. I decided months ago that I was not having my dealer mess around with the tranny on my car. It seems that they didn't insert the stiffeners for the sunshades properly two weeks ago. The shades didn't pass the interior "heat test" with the advent of the summer season's first high temps last week. I am going back again this week with hopefully better results. I don't know what my dealer and I would do without this forum as my service manage never seems to know anything about a particular tsb until I hand him a copy made from a posting to this site. All things considered, I am very happy with the car. There are always bound to be a few glitches in a new models' first year.

    e2helper, thank you for your response as well. My fuel gauge issue isn't anything like what many others have experienced with theirs. Unlike the other Chevy's I have owned, the fuel gauge needle never goes past the "full mark" following a fill up. It is something that I can live with however. I will make sure not to send you my VIN again!

    I thank both of you for your responses.
  • raisncainraisncain Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem back in December. I bought my car new, 300 miles on it (I think was a special order that a customer never took delivery on). Anyhow, after just days of owning it, I noticed the brakes were very rough, thumped and shuttered a lot. Turns out it was warped rotors. They tried to blame me that maybe I was too rough on the brakes for it being a new car, etc. Sorry, I didn't buy it. They never replaced though, only removed and resurfaced. I haven't been real happy with what has happened with my car. Sounds like others are having similar problems.
  • maxxmanmaxxman Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a Maxx LS 10 days ago. I took it on a long trip (250 miles each way) and the following happened: While on the highway the gas gauge would go from full to 3/4 and then just drop to Empty. The gas warning light would not come on. If I stop the car and restart it the gauge would reset itself to 3/4. If I keep driving the gauge would slowly climb back up to 3/4. This happened 4 times to me. It never happened when driving off highway. I took the car to chevy where it is right now and they are telling me they they are trying to recreate the problem, which they won't. I am waiting for their response but has anyone had this problem and if so what was the solution?
  • raisncainraisncain Member Posts: 3
    Me too! I swear I'm getting concerned. I bought my 2004 Malibu in Dec '04, year end close out. After a few days, my rotors were warped and I had to bring it in so they could be resurfaced. They tried to tell me perhaps it was my fault, that I was braking too hard on a new car, etc. Since then I have had the radio replaced 3 times, this is my 4th radio!! It started by draining my battery, trying to rotate my CD changer while the car was shut off, real whacky stuff. To the point where I was left stranded with no battery charge. This happened twice, and now with my 4th radio, I don't have that problem anymore, but now it erases my presets for no reason, and also ejects CD's at random. This happens sporadically, no rhyme or reason to it. I got my car back one week ago, and already it's happened again. Not to mention my steering column was replaced as well. I'm waiting for a response from the service manager, I'm at my wits end. Just yesterday I got in the car and all my presets were back to original settings. I don't understand it, and I'm not happy. All Chevy dealer will tell me is that they are aware there is a problem, but they don't know how to fix. They put in a new radio with different components but obviously this isn't solving the problem since I've already had another issue. Can anyone shed some light on this? Anybody else experience this? I'm seriously thinking of an attorney, this has been the 4th time and to no avail. Thanks for any input!!
  • juswheelsjuswheels Member Posts: 42
    Since you live on the East Coast and I do also, I will suggest a possible cause of your failure. I currently own a 2001 Ford Taurus. Early this year it was recalled by Ford to have shields installed on the front springs. (Can't tell you the recall number but it's on file through Ford). The stated reason for the recall was that corrosion could cause just such a failure and the broken spring could puncture a tire. The shields were to protect the tires should such a failure happen. Ford also raised the warranty on the springs to 100,000 miles. I suspect that Corrosion may be your major culprit. I also agree with you that it would take quite a rock ( VW SIZED) to break both springs.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    My 04 Malibu had warped rotors the first time I drove it, they turned the rotors, all 4. I know for a fact that GM has a Service Tip to turn the rotors and not replace them. The reason being the rotors are of poor quality and are warped when installed, would not suprise me if
    they were made in china. My dealer told me it was because they were rusted, I could see through the wheels they were not rusted. :)
  • billbbillb Member Posts: 14
    I have had my Maxx for 13 days and I do really like it but I have 2 concerns. First, the sunroof is very noisy. I see that there is a TSB fix or at worst I can put my own wind deflector on. Second, I drove home with 6 miles on my car and it seemed like the rotors were warped. I thought maybe the brakes just needed to be "set". I now have about 800 miles on the car and the issue is still there. I left a message for a service manager today and will wait for a response tomorrow.
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    The TSB is to add a wind deflector...so dont go buy one.....I noticed warped rotors are a common occurrence......I must say I have a Feb 04 build on my Maxx LT...with over 26K on it now...and havent experienced the rotor problem....nor any of the other common issues experienced on the board.....
  • josephusjosephus Member Posts: 32
    What does the "Locked" display mean on the DIC? This has me confused. It's not in the manual that I can see. I have an 05 sedan LS. When I start the car up with the remote starter, before I put the key into the ignition, the DIC, SOMETIMES, reads "locked". Other times it just shows the normal clock display. With the key in, it reverts to the normal settings. This is pretty random. I've tried various combinations of leaving the fan on or the CD on when I leave the car etc., but I can't pinpoint what causes "Locked" to show up on the DIC. Anyone?
  • deb14deb14 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 99 Malibu more often now. when i attempt to start my car it will not start the theft system light blinks. even if i wait the 10 minutes for the theft system to reset. It keeps re engaging the theft system. If i wait about a day and then try them the car starts. THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZY. :mad:
    someone said i need to get a new ignition, that mine for some reason is not reading my key anymore. has anyone else had this problem and if so how do you resolve it.
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    this should indicate that the car controls are locked....since you used your remote starter..and you must insert the key and turn it ...the locked should turn off at the point and give you access to all controls......mine always shows locked....when I use the remote start....does the normal clock and temp show..even when you use your remote start function?
  • josephusjosephus Member Posts: 32
    That's what I figured...except it doesn't always show "Locked". Other times it just shows the clock. Can't remember off hand if it shows the temp. I'll have a look next time I'm out.
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    I can explain WHAT is happening but not WHY on your vehicle. You are seeing the effect of the Theftlock feature in your radio. The radio in the vehicle is tied to the the vehicle identification number (VIN) of your vehicle. When you turn the ignition ON the body computer communicates the VIN to rest of the vehicle. The radio has to receive the correct VIN before it will work, otherwise it will display "LOCKED".

    The body computer only communicates this information when the ignition key is actually turned on, it is NOT communicated during a remote start. Your radio display is normally going to be blank (and radio inoperative) when in remote start mode. The only time this might not occur is if you performed a remote start on vehicle just after you turned the vehicle off with key but before you opened the driver door (perhaps to demonstrate the feature to someone else).

    So this doesn't explain WHY but it does explain WHAT ;)

    I bet you are going to tell me that isn't the way your vehicle is working but it is the way I believe it is supposed to. :shades:
  • mbrandlembrandle Member Posts: 2
    Saturday night, I went to the store, picked up what I needed and came home. The car worked fine. Sunday, I get in to go to the movies, and it won't start. It cranks fine, it just won't catch.

    I've checked the ignition fuses, and relay for fuel pump. I tried the "10 min leaving the key on to reset the Anti Theft system" procedure. None proved to be any help. Is there a fuel cutoff switch? I've read about replacing the fuel filter. Will probably try that tomorrow. I've also read about a key sensor in the ignition switch/steering column. Is that something I can check? I bought the car used - no original key, no keyless entry transmitter - about three and a half years ago. Right now, odometer is at 50k. This is the first time anything like this has happened.
  • tonijtonij Member Posts: 1
    I'm sure if you've gotten your car started but on 6/15 I dorve my car to work-- then ran an errand while at work then --went out to lunch and my car would not start -- all day I tried to fix it and nothing -- it would turn but not catch like to described-- when I called they wanted to tow it in and I said no-- there is a page in the manual that covers this breifly -- but without looking at every page I would not have found it. Try this: putin your key turn it to the ACC position-- let it sit for 10-15 min or unitl the THeft System light stops blinking. then turn key to off- very (very important that you turn it to off before trying to start it). wait about 1 min then start-- it should start and the Theft System warning should not come on.. good luck-- but replacing the ignition and plugs and all that are a waste of time and money--
  • berri66berri66 Member Posts: 1
    Hi. Was searching this site because I just had the same problem happen to me. How successful were you? Did you tackle the problem yourself or go to a shop? I've thought about doing the same, just nervous about rehanging the door paneling on my 2002 Malibu.
  • sphillipssphillips Member Posts: 1
    I re-read the manual, done all the checks and the light is still on, for 1 week now.
    Has any one else experienced this problem?

    My new 2005 Malibu MAXX is only 2 weeks old.

    Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

    Susie P, Ontario, Canada
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    You should take to dealer, however if you also ever seen a "Check Gas Cap" message in Driver Info Center it might be an issue a few others have experienced.
  • astrosurferastrosurfer Member Posts: 2
    i am having the same problem, went out in evening for errand and all was fine. next morning tried to start car to goto work but will not start, tried the anti theft switch technique to no avail. can hear fuel pump run when switch is turned on. have new fuel filter installed about 3 months ago and new plugs to try and fix a power loss prob ( it was actually the catalytic converter which dealer changed free of charge since i have 100,000 mile warranty). originally thought i might be out of gas so i went and bought a 2 gallon can full and put in tank, the gauge went up over a 1/4 tank( it takes more than 2 gallons to do this on a 13 gallon tank). still my car won't start. talk to dealer and said could be filter, but when told it was new they say it has to be the pump.
    i have all original keys as i bought the car new in 2001. mines is a little worn but my wifes key is like new. i also have an auto start installed( by me) which eliminates the key problem altogether by electronically sending the correct signal down the wire. i seem to have no pressure at my fuel rail (there is a place to test this on passenger side of fuel rail, it looks like a tire valve and you can remove the cap and depress the little valve which should spray fuel, but no fuel came out except a little dribble) .today i will try removing the pipe before the filter and turn on ignition to see if i have fuel pressure before the filter , i have none at the fuel rail right now... i hope someone has a solution to this soon. i only have a small deductible on my policy but still it's $100 i need elsewhere right now.
  • mbrandlembrandle Member Posts: 2
    Been there, done that - no help. Thanks for the repiy. Had it towed to the dealer yesterday.
  • astrosurferastrosurfer Member Posts: 2
    actually today i got my car started after reading another forum this afternoon where a woman had seemingly run out of gas , after putting in 2 gallons of gasoline the car still would not start. (that's what i did at first). the car was towed to a mechanic shop which put in another 2 gallons, at which the car started. a weak fuel pump was the diagnosis. so i decided it was worth getting more gas in the car to try and see if perhaps my pump was weak also.figuring that the pump should be completely submerged in gasoline perhaps it needed to re-prime itself.
    anyway i put in 4 gallons, cranked the car and voila..
    sorry bout yours tho' man
    regards.
  • malibu0212malibu0212 Member Posts: 16
    After replacing fuel filter, the malibu had a good trip to Houston without any problem. It also drives flawlessly at local. However, same thing happened when we were back to New Orleans. First at 1/4 tank full, then I gased it to 3/4, then it stalled at 1/2 tank full. Gased up to a full tank again, it then stalled at 3/4 tank!

    I was fed up and asked my mechanic to replace the fuel pump. He did. He found the some black plastic casing of the fuel pump cracked and some small pieces fell off. He said he cannot get a steady flow of fuel when he tried to use the bad pump to suck the fuel from the gas tank during repair. He said my wife damaged the pump by repeatedly starting the car at very low fuel level back in March - fuel pump overheated and caused extra wear. See also my previous posts.

    The mechanic charged $120 and the pump from the JY costs $60.

    The lesson - never try to restart the car at very low fuel level, especially try to drive the car at high speed at low fuel when some prob signs showed up.
  • malibu0212malibu0212 Member Posts: 16
    Fuel with high sulfer addition damaged the fuel gauge. At one time some Shell gas (from Norco refinery west of New Orleans) had the problem and Shell later reached a settlement to replace the faulty gauge for free. You have to show proof you have purchased shell gas during the troubled period though.

    Your local repair shop may charge $400 for such work.

    Search this forum you may have more information on the issue.
  • kurtamaxxguykurtamaxxguy Member Posts: 677
    what is a good fuel additive for keeping that garbage out of the fuel system? USA fuels seem to have a lot of sulfur in them and it causes nothing but trouble.
  • kurtamaxxguykurtamaxxguy Member Posts: 677
    looks like a company called pri products makes one. Intended for heavy fuel oil, it also works on gasoline and seems to have good lab data and reasonable testimonials behind it.
  • jagfan1036jagfan1036 Member Posts: 1
    Let me start by saying my Theft light has been coming on randomly (While Driving) for about a month. This morning I went to start the car and it would not start. It acts like it wants too, but won't. Only other problem noted is for the last couple of weeks when you turn the vehicle off, the drivers side lock does not unlock, all others do. Any ideas.
  • meandmymaxxmeandmymaxx Member Posts: 134
    Do you have on star? if you do you can have them do a remote diagnostics, may be able to point you in the right direction. Mind you if e2helper cant help you, I am not sure who can.
  • alanb3alanb3 Member Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone

    I have a 2000 Malibu LS and have recently noticed that when I am accelerating through 50 mph (80 kph) the engine seems to surge as if I was putting my foot
    on and off the gas pedal. Once I get to about 60 mph, the problem goes away.
    It also happens if I am climbing a hill and just trying to maintain a certain speed (again around 50 mph). The problem doesn't seem to be there until I have been driving for about half an hour. The dealer checked it out and no error codes showed. He also took the car out for about an hour, and of course, couldn't duplicate the problem. Does anyone know what this might be? Thanks.
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