Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
And, like Pao said, don't discount American cars completely. My Maxx has been really good, and my friends 03 Accord has had quite a few problems, not the least of which is it needing new engine mounts and radiator mounts at 20,000 miles. Also, the Malibu has beat the Accord, Camry, and Altima in the JD Power Initial Quality Survey. But, I do understand why you would be very unhappy to be stranded. Both my Toyota Truck and my old Altima left me stranded (the Toyota multiple times) and now I really don't ever feel the need to buy either of those again.
Turn your ignition "on" and wait exactly 10 minutes until the "theft system" light stops blinking. It will stop on it's own after 10 minutes.
You will be able to drive off after that. Okay so I dealt with that like twice a month for about 14 months until recently when I had to have the entire ignition casing replaced. VERY expensive. Apparently, the wires weren't touching and had burned their own "pathway" to start my car. Crazy! And silly. No one could figure it out (even at the dealership) until I'd read my manual. My quick fix also ran my battery dry so if you're strapped for cash, be prepared to replace that sometime in the future as well.
BTW, my steering wheel NEVER locks. It's not even in the manual. The Malibu is not fit for driving on the road. :mad:
(it's been a year since you posted this so you may have fixed the prob by now)
Does it pretty much repeat every time you drive it? If so I have a suggestion for you to try and see if it changes anything
I will be back in touch with results.
Since we had our tank replaced, I'll bet that's what happened. The dealer replaced the module without using the special tool and damaged the module. They tell me they now have the special tool, and also that the tank itself is still OK.
I think I want to take a look at that tank opening myself. If it's damaged I think they owe me another (third) tank.
One thing I can't complain about: every time this car has been in the shop overnight, we have gotten a free loaner. I've never had that convenience before with any car, no matter how expensive.
Here is the web address of the gm tech link article on this. Just cut and paste it into your browser.
http://www.gmtechlink.com/images/issues/may05/TLmay05e.html#story10
DavisMaxx
2004 Maxx LS
Gold
17K
built 5/04
vin 237245
No more GM products for me.
Bljeaux
Has anyone had success with the GM recommended technique of torqueing the wheels manually? Does this avoid the quick return of pulsing many have described?
Has anyone run across replacement rotors that are more stable than the original equipment?
If someone has actually confronted the pulsing problem and corrected it (ie. no problem for over 20K), it would be helpful for some to hear about it.
I tried duplicating your complaint and came pretty close. XM would be working fine and then radio shift to FM1 band. At the same time the Airbag warning light comes on. If I remove the fault then the airbag light typically goes off and you can select XM band again.
I didn't see the Check DAB message but I only played with it for a little while. Also I think the software in my radio is different and so might not act the same way.. I was able to create this problem by creating a dual fault in vehicle wiring. Since this sounds pretty close to what you are experiencing, I would suggest (if they will take any recommendations from you) that next time vehicle is at dealer that they look at what is called the BCM C1 connector for any signs that it isn't locked in place properly (esp a component called a TPA which is green in color). I would also suggest they double check that the wiring terminals (there are 2) for data communication in SAME connector have adequate "drag". Just in case probing of that connection damaged the terminal.
When I did induce this problem I set fault codes in many different electronic module. That would typically be a tip off to check those types of things.
Don't ask me how I know this stuff
Good luck,
Ive learned a lot of about the GM Vehicle Order Management System (VOMS) and the associated codes....since Im dealing with a Pontiac dealer that did a special order for me....he has been very forthcoming now that Im knowledgeable of his system...and what he kind of information he can get from it!!!!
My '04 was improperly torqued on all 4 wheels and started vibrating from time to time during braking. Went through and retorqued manually via standard star pattern and torque wrench (will __never__ let a dealer torque those wheels again without following up right after service!)..
Would be interested in hearing what other rotors from vendors are available, and more durable.
Seems like Malibu is weak in two areas - brakes and electrics.
I've been having problems starting it, there seems to be a lack of power or short. It started by turning off seconds after starting the car a week ago, but I quickly started the car again (The panel dimmed and my stereo's memory was erased) It happened 3 additional times. This morning it wouldn't start at all, the power locks weren't working, nor any other electrical devise. I tried a few times and nothing. I then turned the key half way, some of the panel's lights came on, as usual, tried but nothing again. The funny thing is a few "clicks" inside the hood (maybe alternator or a short???) I left the key half way turned again maybe for a minute, tried again and started the car....
I changed the starter and battery six months ago thus my doubts that it may be any of these (I'll have the battery and alternator checked today though). My driver's side window died just before the starting problems, could it be a short? I know ZERO when it comes to the car's electrical system. Any advise or suggestions? (Maybe you have had this problem with your Malibu and know the exact answer)
Thank you
C H
I hear yeah man. '04 Maxx LS, had it towed once after it continued its not starting problems, left me stranded in my pj's at 7-11, almost once on new years. Had the 6pak changer reprogramed twice, replaced once, gas gauge started working on its own...would never read full even with overfilling. bad gas mileage and constantly running rough, reprogrammed twice. The car has spent a total of a month in the shop since i bought it in Nov. '04. The depreciation is horrible, and you cant give the car away. Like you said, this will be the last domestic car i buy. :lemon:
Noticed your problem. I have had the exact same problem over the years with several cars. This problem has almost always been related to starter, voltage regulator, alternator, battery, or battery connection problems. Since you have already replaced the battery and starter, I would try the easiest potential fix first.
The clicking under the hood can come from the solenoid trying to close so that the starter can get a direct, high power connection to the battery. A poorly charged battery can cause clicking in the solenoid when there is insufficient power coming from the battery to the high powered starter coils to actually turn the starter over and of course to start the engine. Bad connections on the starter or battery (usually on the battery) can cause this problem.
Poor connections can result where the battery cables fasten onto the battery. The fix is to unscrew these connections, clean them and put grease on the bolt and connecting metal on both cables and also on the battery cable connecting point. This prevents the cables from corroding in the future and the grease does not impede the flow of the required electricity. I have fixed several of my cars in this manner over the years and never have hard starting, dimming lights or clicking under the hood problems after that.
If that does not work, have your alternator checked for proper output for the purpose of charging the battery. Keep checking and fixing connections until things come back to normal or you identify the bad part that needs replacing.
While there I got to check out the new HHR and I really hope they don't think that is going to replace the MAXX. There is very little leg room in the rear and the interior design has a lot of room for improvement. Not to mention the colors they chose. I think it looks an awful lot like a PT Cruiser just more squared off. I really love my MAXX and do not want to see it replaced by an HHR. Does anyone know what HHR stands for anyway the services guys didn't?
And unfortunately, the HHR __is__ going to replace the Maxx, by end of 2007.
gas cap cover is bubbling and starting to rust. My GM dealer said that this
is not covered unless there is a rust hole that goes completely through. Has anyone else had this problem? Also, I noticed that there is a bit of rust starting on both sides of the car at the bottom, just behind the back wheels. I would appreciate any advice on how best to stop this. Thanks.
I have not received any recall in the mail yet. :confuse:
He is in negotiations with GM right now trying to get a new van - they offered to replace the engine on the old one.
He then read the letter to me - and discovered that our new Maxx is mentioned too! But the build date is 7/04 so hopefully doesn't apply to us?
My wife took the car into the dealership this morning to have this (and some other items I've been holding off on) taken care of. She just called me to tell me that the mechanic says "we have to allow time for the system to reset" and "recognize that the trunk lid is closed". So I had to get the phone # for the dealership and call them. That's BS. This hasn't happened before, and anyway, who EVER heard of a minimum time needing to be allowed between opening / closing and then reopening the trunk? What happens when i open it to put something in, close it, then immediately realize I meant to get something else out (or forgot something else I needed to put in)? Should I wait a few minutes or be forced to use the key?
I'm interested in hearing if anyone else has seen this problem with their 2004+ Malibu Sedan (and possibly the Maxx, though the Maxx has some extra features relating to the hatch, if I've read correctly, that might mean its system works a little differently?). In the meantime I called the service manager and told her what I thought about this "excuse" they're making, and that it's never acted this way before. I also told her that if the mechanic still claims it's normal they need to check any OTHER Malibu on the lot.. She got with the mechanic and they're going to go check another one out, then she says she's going to call me back, so I'll post back here with results.
For anyone interested, the other stuff it's being seen for-
1) Tire rotation / balance (yah, I can do it, but they're seeing it anyway, and I have a hard time finding enough time for stuff like this any more)
2) Loose hood release handle. The inside handle for the hood release has between 3/4 and 1" play. NOT the cable itself (cable's taught, as can be felt when pulling the handle past that point). Manager says it's normal for all the Malibus. I'll take her word for it, since I honestly can't remember from past times opening the hood (that says some positive things about this car- no need to open the hood myself often enough to even remember how it worked before).
3) Rock chip in paint to the rear of the sunroof on the passenger side. The chip itself isn't their concern. The RUST starting to form there is though. I'd been expecting to hear the "rust through" excuse, but was pleasantly surprised when the manager said they may have to send it out. (Rust through IS what is covered, but starting to rust is what leads to rust through. Dealing with the rust while it's still just a surface spot is bound to be much cheaper than once it's through the metal. Interestingly, I was under the impression that the roof was also two-sided galvanized. If so, this spot is a strange occurance.)
ttyl all.
I bought my 2004 Malibu used about six months ago. It had been driven as a company car for about a year and abused pretty badly for such a new car. One of the problems with the car was that there were stains on the front and rear passenger seats. It looked like somebody had spilled something all over them and then dried, leaving a sort of patchy stain. The rest of the car was pretty dirty too, so I figured I would get it detailed and see if the stains came out, and they did. I thought my problems were over, but last night I went for a jog in the rain and drove home from the track. This morning I noticed similar stains, but much worse all over the driver's seat. I'm sure that I only got water and nothing else on the seat, and that these stains are new and not just the ones I had taken out resurfacing. I've also noticed small stains on the other seats where water has dripped when the doors were opened. I find it hard to believe that GM could apholster their seats with fabric that stains simply by coming into contact with water, but apparently they did in my car. Has anybody had the same problem, and if so, is there a solution?
As for the other things- I forgot one off my list:
Weak / chattering passenger side power window. This has happened before, and they've always just lubed the window seal (assuming silicone of some sort), which took care of the chattering, but not the slow window motor. This time I insisted that they also deal with the motor, before the car's out of warranty and it fails altogether.
Resolutions:
1) Piece of cake. Cost ~$35.
2) (Had answer above, but repeating here to keep things together) The manager claims to have checked other cars on the lot, says they're all the same. Supposedly they leave some slack in the handle to avoid overstressing the cable? (Makes little sense to me, but if they really ARE all that way, whattayado?)
3) Mentioned above. Basically, I'm going to take care of this one by taking the car to a body shop and having this spot and any others addressed, as well as having some minor custom graphics added, to please my wife. This may be a few months away. For the short term, has anyone got a good suggestion for stopping / preventing the spread of the rust until I get time / money to get the car into the shop?
4) Trunk release glitching. Wouldn't you know it. The thing's refusing to glitch now. First they claimed you have to wait for it to reset, but later they simply claimed they couldn't reproduce the problem. Since it's working perfectly (regardless of how many times I've opened it trying to cause the problem) I just asked that they keep the ticket marked as "unable to reproduce" so that if it doesn't happen again until outside the warranty I can still get it addressed properly.
5) Power window. Two things were at fault. The first was the dry rubber seal around the windows, which they lubricated again (seems to need this about 3 times a year, so I guess I'm going to stock up on silicone lube myself..). The second was that the motor / mechanism itself was dirty. They cleaned it and lubricated it (also did driver's side, which the mechanic said was also dirty). The passenger side is still slower than the driver side, but it's so close now that I won't press the issue. (the driver's side closes while the passenger side still has between 2 and 3 inches of travel left if you close them both simultaneously from fully open. It was at least twice that or more.)
With all my minor problems, I still love this car. I'm not blind to any faults (for example, the seats are a bit hard on the backside on longer trips, and the suspension is a bit firm over the rough pavement we have here in this part of NC's highways), but overall it was still an excellent value. Great performance and fuel economy for a mid-size family vehicle, good fit and finish, relatively low number of problems (for an early 1st model year build!), outstanding level of equipment for the dollar- it all adds up to a deal that's hard to beat. Unless of course, you bought a Maxx (my wife and I both still have issues with the rear styling, but can't argue against the extra functionality).
The local service department experience has pretty much sealed our satisfaction with the vehicle though. Even when we don't "get our way" they're polite and do a good job of explaining why. More often they go out of their way to make us happy, even if it means fixing something that most others might balk at. Too bad more dealerships don't provide this sort of experience, or GM might not be sitting where it is financially right now.
I haven't been able to find anything fitting the description at the auto parts store. When I asked the service desk whether they apply this during the oil change service, I was told that it was up to me. Apparently, they don't think it is that important.
However, this is my first car with a sunroof and if this stuff will help maintain the gasket, where can I get some? :surprise:
I'd appreciate any opinions/info.
The packaging did not say anything about using it on door gaskets. It is normally used on spark plug boots to keep them soft and easy to remove. You can buy this stuff in an auto store for a couple bucks per tube.
I also checked with service and they do not apply this grease as part of regular maintenance work.
For now, I now have a "no food, no drink" rule in the car.